Month: February 2004

Long Weekend in Venice (2/2).

1st February 20041st February 2016 admin Venice 2 Leave a comment

	A river taxi travelling along the Grand Canal, near the Rialto Bridge.
Venice is served by two airports.Treviso where we flew with Ryanair, and Marco Polo, normally serviced by Easyjet. Marco Polo Airport, is actually “on the water” and in the case of hotels like this one, that have moorings, its possible to get a water taxi direct from the airport to your hotel.
	The Rialto bridge, in the centre of the business district of Venice.Unlike places like Portmerion in Wales (which I like a lot) Venice is not an “experimental village” but a fully functioning City, with all the usual kind of facilities and trade, you might find in any other City throughout the world.
The view from the Rialto Bridge, one of the amazing sights of Venice.
	Venice was originally designed by Leonardo Da Vinci.It was constructed from Wooden posts, hammered into the surface. Because they are hammered in so tightly, there is no oxygen there, no algie can grow, and the Wood never rots. Once it was built, the lagoon floodgates were opened, and canals filled the City. This is one of the buildings, and shows how the Buildings seem to “float” on the water.
Ponte degli Scalzi, which replaced a previous Austrian built Iron bridge in 1934.
	Venice train station.I remember Lee and I sitting on these steps, more than a decade ago eating slices of Pizza, that cost the equivalent of 50p each. Inside, the station hasn’t changed much at all.
The Ghetto district.Like Capital in Rome, its local district name, became generic throughout the world. This was the first Ghetto in the world.
	The Giardinetti Reali (Royal Gardens).Just as the guidebook had said, most people visit the City during the day and go home early evening. The place was very quiet and serene after about 7pm.
I wanted to visit the famous “Harry’s Bar” on the waterfront, facing the Lagoon.In times gone by, Ernest Hemingway and other famous writers and adventurers used to drink here. I thought it would a pretty authentic place to write up my notes, and prepare the wording of these web pages.
	The reality was quite different.The staff were Italian, Sarah and I are British, and EVERYONE else was American. None of the guests looked much like writers, and I think the only reason they let us in, was because of Sarah’s pretty dress. I got Sarah a Belini (a famous Venetian drink, originally invented in Harry’s) and asked for a Beer. They sanctimoniously told me, that they didn’t sell Beer. I ended up paying £6.50 for a glass of coke. Overall, a fiasco, but on the plus side, Sarah quite liked the place, so it wasn’t a complete waste of time.
Another shot of the beautiful waterways of Venice.The famous explorer Marco Polo, came from this part of Venice.
	The statue of Daniele Manin, a statesman who fought tirelessly for the freedom of Venice.Leader of the 1848 uprising, he stands on Campo Manin staring towards the house where he once lived.
In the evening, as we walk back to our hotel, on the 2nd night, I notice this picture, painted on the wall.
	In the morning, we rise early, have breakfast, and then head out for a relaxing walk along the waterfront next to the Lagoon.We arrive at the famous Arsenal. This was the first naval shipyard in Europe. For the first time, weapons and munitions were created using a production line. The shipyard became so effective, that a visitor described it as an Arsenal (meaning “house of industry” in Arabic) and the name stuck.
Wandering around the back streets, I see one of these tiny alleyways, that interconnect the houses and courtyards.
	Palazzo Contarini del BovoloHidden in a maze of alleyways, it took ages to find. Navigation wasn’t helped massively by a complete lack of signs and the photo in the guidebook, that made it look like the building was on the waterfront (its actually contained in a courtyard). Bovolo means snail shell in Venetian and and this is meant to describe the “fairytale” staircase of the building, constructed in the 1500’s.
We had sit down meals, for each of our lunches and dinners during the trip, and the feed could only be called excellent.We decided to buy some street food, and eat on the move, as we explored with the last few hours available on our trip. This just shows the sort of take away food you can get in Venice. Its a shame nobody has a shop like that in Chester.
	Destroyed by fire 1836 the opera house, gained its name La Fenice (The Phoenix) after it was rebuilt.It burned down again in 1996 and was re-opened in 2004. I would have loved to watch a performance there, but this was a budget trip after all.
The Peggy Guggenheim gallery in Venice.High brow art, isn’t really my thing, but there are 2 interesting (well I think so) things about this gallery. 1. Jackson Pollock, has an entire room set aside to his work in this Gallery. Pollock was a discovery of Peggy Guggenheim. 2. If like me, you watch the L Word, and wondered who the inspiration for the character Peggy Peabody was, it was Peggy Guggenheim (although she doesn’t have a daughter called Helena).
	Sadly, nothing lasts forever (although cricket sometimes feels like it will never end!) and we get the water bus to the coach station and begin our trip home.Venice is a great short break City since its not on a lot of “stag do” destination lists. I decided to re-visit the interailing destinations I enjoyed in my youth. That means Paris, Munich and Amsterdam have been added to the blue list.

Long Weekend in Venice (1/2).

1st February 20041st February 2016 admin Venice 1 Leave a comment

	It’s more than a decade, since I visited Venice, while interailing around Europe. We decided on a return visit, with a hotel, rather than sleeping overnight on a train.
Our first sight of Venice, is this amazing view, as the road on stilts heads out across an enormous Lagoon, that houses the Canals and buildings of Venice.
	Our 2nd sight of Venice isn’t so inspiring. The Bus station, was a bit drab. Just above the tops of the buses, is the roof of the newest bridge, the Ponte di Calatrava (due for completion December 07) Traditionally there have only been 3 bridges that cross the “reverse s”).
Its possible to get a boat direct from the bus station, to St Marks square where we were staying, but we decided to get out and enjoy the weather. We wander along, next to the Canal, looking at the amazing buildings and Gondola’s for hire.
	Our hotel was right next to St Marks square, and one side of it, was next to the main Gondola Taxi rank.
Inside, the hotel was lovely, and the staff very polite and helpful (which reassured me about using expedia, after my experiences in Beijing). After the stress of travelling, we unpacked our bags, got showered and changed, and headed out to see the sights.
	After a quick wander around the square, we decided to get something to eat. We found a restaurant next to the academia bridge (built in the 1930’s out of wood, as a temporary solution, it remains there to this day). Two superb Pizzas and an exquisite bottle of wine follow.
As we enjoyed our evening meal, we could see Gondola’s sailing along the Grand Canal. A common misconception (probably due to Cornetto ice-cream adverts) is that the Gondola pilot, will immediately break into song, as you set of on your journey. In reality, this doesn’t happen at all. In this picture however, a couple had hired a Gondola, pilot and a professional opera singer to serenade them on their journey.
	As it begins to get dark, we walk back towards Saint Marks square. Hundreds of restaurant tables were placed out in the square for dinning (we decided not to eat here, as we had been told it was very expensive). A Jazz band had a stage set up, and the square filled with music.
Probably the best technical picture I have taken so far. Having finally worked out how to keep the shutter open on my camera, and holding the camera really steady, I was able to take this shot of the square at night, with the moon in the background.
	Torre dell’Orologio. The famous 15th Century astronomical clock.
I took this shot of Campanile, sitting on my back. As stated before, one of the problems with short breaks, is the lack of time to queue. A shame really, I would have loved to see the view from the top of the clock tower. Originally built in 1172 as a lighthouse, to aid navigation across the lagoon. It collapsed with little warning on the 14th of July 1902, and had to be rebuilt.
	The Basilica of Saint Mark.
Photographed up close, on the Basilica, is the symbol of Venice, the Bronze Lion of St Mark (The Winged Lion).
	A closed shot from the side, shows the stupendous architecture and its Byzantine influences.
One of the famous Facade Mosaics. This shows the smuggling out of Alexandria of St Marks body, reputedly under slices of port to deter prying Muslims.
	Next to the Basilica, the Doge’s palace. I found out that the famous adventurer and seducer Casanova, was one of the few people ever to escape from the Palace Prison.
Photo showing the walkway next to the doges palace. An account of Casanova’s escape, taken from the official Venice website: Casanova left the Piombi on the night between 31 October and 1 November 1756. Digging up the wooden planks with a makeshift tool he climbed out of his cell onto the roof and then down into an attic. Crossing the whole palace he reached the golden staircase where he was seen by a guard who mistook him for a politician who’d been locked in and let him out. A legend says he stopped for a coffee in San Marco square before fleeing by sea on a gondola.
	Columns of San Marco and San Teodoro. When the sacking of Constantinople was completed 2 huge columns of granite were removed and erected in the square in 1172. They marked the entrance to the City of Venice, in the days when the City could only be reached by Ship from the Lagoon. At one time, criminals were executed there, and even today, superstitious Venetians will not walk between the Columns.
Beyond the columns, A view out across the Lagoon, from the docks at St Marks Square.

A visit to Borneo, beautiful islands, amazing culture and kadazan headhunters (3/3).

1st February 200430th March 2016 admin Borneo 3 Leave a comment

	Our final destination that day, the Kota Kinabalu Zoo.The Zoo was quite new. It was an excellent attraction ,so I was surprised how empty it was. Our guide said it hadn’t caught on yet, but by the same time next year it would be full every weekend.
The layout of the Zoo, gave the animals plenty of room to move around, unlike the Zoo I saw in Beijing.It was also obvious that the Sabah climate was more suited to the Tiger’s than say the UK.
	As we wander around, we see baby elephants.
This animal is called a brown bear, which is a bit daft, considering its obviously black.
	A few days earlier, some of the people on the trip, had flown to Sepilok Island, to see the Orang Utan’s.This is a picture of a 23 foot python, taken at the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre in 1999.
The bird house was enormous, and had fine wire mesh around the outside, and netting across the top.The birds were very friendly and accommodating, and as you can see, this Crane, hardly notice we were there.
	The thing I really wanted to see. Orang Utan’s.Roughly translated from Malaysian, Orang Utan, means literally Wild Man. They are some of the friendliest creatures I have ever seen. If you visit Sepilok, you actually get to hold them, and stuff like that, which we didn’t get to do in the Zoo. On the other hand, that requires a flight to Sepilok Island, and the Zoo is just a taxi ride away.
As I saw this, I was reminded of my bushcraft training.The things that separates humans from most of the animal kingdom, is a posable thumb (which Orang Utan’s have) and the ability to fashion tools as needed. Here the Orang Utan uses a carefully selected sharp piece of rock, to break open this piece of bamboo.
	Much less talked about, and unique to the Island, are proboscis Monkeys.They have quite a unique shaped nose. After I returned from the day out, I spent a couple of days relaxing around the town, getting sunburned, sitting by the ocean etc.
I wasn’t massively looking forward to half a day of climbing, but I wanted to get back into the adventure stuff, after a few days of r and r.These excellent guys from Mountain TORQ were the same company that run the highest Via Ferrata in the world on Kota Kinabalu.
	I had decided a few weeks before heading to Borneo that I would give up climbing (the truth is, I was never very good at it anyway).I was booked on the climbing anyway, and I hate to waste an opportunity. I had a quick go that morning, and reconfirmed, that I really don’t enjoy climbing at all, and that it does nothing for me. There was a superb waterfall nearby.
While enjoying the waterfall, I shouted encouragement to my friends still climbing.The waterfall, was raised up from the jungle floor, so I was able to get this superb picture of Gill climbing. Gill was virtually never at the hotel, and spent every available moment, either in the jungle, or doing some other activity. She worked as a chemist, and joked that when she went to see the Dr, she was always able to tell him what medication she needed, rather than what was wrong with here 🙂
	I was running out of free days, and I really wanted to have an intro diving session.I got the mini bus to drop me at Jesselton harbour on the way back from climbing, hopped on a boat, and headed out to the island.
I had a bad experience on the barrier reef some years ago, and ended up being rushed into my first dive.I found the experience extremely frightening, and decided not continue. Considering that not every outdoor pursuit is for me (I don’t like Skiing for example) I had always wondered if I would have enjoyed the dive, given a little more time. I met up with Richard from down bellow divers. He gave me a 40 minute brief on theory, we had lunch and then I got suited up. Intro dives, are a bit more expensive in Borneo, than they are in say Wales, but I think the background of this pictures, shows you why.
	Richard showed me how all the equipment worked.He really was excellent at teaching. We got into the water, and I had a go at holding my breath under the water and breathing. Unfortunately, after 40 minutes, it was obvious, that I wasn’t going to be able to do it. Each time, I could hold my head under, until my breath ran out, I couldn’t get used to breathing, and ended up panicking each time. I was slightly disappointed, but as Richard reasonably pointed out, you came here to find out if you could do it, and now you know. Diving isn’t for everyone. Its definitely not for me.
On the subject of things that are for me, during the evening, I talked a couple of the lads into joining me for some fusion food.We went to the internationally renowned Secret Recipe restaurant. Their Irish Lamb Stew (which combines the traditional Irish meal, with Malaysian sauces) is one of their signature dishes and has won several awards internationally. Without realising it, I was sat in front of a picture of the same meal I was eating !. The following day, Richard and I, along with Dan and JK, headed of to the Salt Route.
	When I returned from the Jungle, I was exhausted.I got showered, and had a bit of an early night The following morning, I decided not to go White water rafting as I had planned, and instead spend the day relaxing on my own. I was spending 2 days in Kuala Lumpur on the way home, and Its important to make time for yourself when travelling. I’ve found if you don’t, you can burn yourself out and end up going home more exhausted than when you set off. As I wandered around the shopping centre, I saw some unusual sights. A cash machine was being re-filled, and a shotgun armed security officer stood guarding it. Also, this extremely “cheesy” Kenny Rogers Roasters restaurant chain, are a rave industry in Borneo.
As I crossed the road, I saw this sign, and was reminded of Singapore (which like Borneo and Kuala Lumpur is part of Malaysia).Life without vandalism is pleasant. I suppose to some of the chattering classes, this would seem like propaganda and brain washing. If any of them are reading this, I’d like to ask a question ?. Isn’t life without vandalism pleasant, or do you think it isn’t ?.
	I continue pottering around the shops, buy a few bits and pieces, like a picture of Mount Kinabalu and some new trainers.Because it was daytime, the Irish bar was much quieter and I had something to eat, and a few drinks, by the ocean.
The Menara Tun Mustapha.On the last night of the trip, we had a superb Steak at a restaurant frequented by the locals (forgotten camera so no photo’s unfortunately). The evening before that, I decided to collect up some volunteers and have dinner at the Atmosphere, revolving restaurant at the top.
	Gill and Sarah came along, and the excellent Johnny Crocket.It was dark outside, so the view didn’t really work that well. The service and food were superb (they even did mashed potatoes). One memory of the evening that will stay with me, is the floor. Although the outer floor moves, the inner floor doesn’t. After only a few minutes, the bar we were sat next to started to drift away, and it was 20 minutes before we were re-united with it. Equally, a visit to the bathroom involved deciding which way round was quickest, at that moment in time 1.
What a fantastic trip and what an amazing place.I just wanted to take a moment, to say thanks to all the people who helped to make this trip so good. Mr Micky and his gang, our guide on Kota Kinabalu Johan, and the excellent JK for putting it all together. Of special mention, are Ms Jumaina (pictured) and all the staff at our hotel.

A visit to Borneo, beautiful islands, amazing culture and kadazan headhunters (2/3).

1st February 200430th March 2016 admin Borneo 2 Leave a comment

	Continuing my exploration of Kota Kinabalu, and the local culture there, I saw the famous Jesselton hotel.The hotel was first founded in 1954. Kota Kinabalu had originally been called Jesselton after Sir Charles Jessel, Vice Chairman of the British North Borneo Company.
Other famous sights, were this area.Although a modern back packer district, it was historically called Australia District, after the Australian soldiers, who were billeted here during the war.
	Building a colony like this, came at a personal cost.Francis George Atkinson, the First District Officer of Jesselton, died of Malaria aged 28, shortly after being stationed here. His mother Mary Edith Atkinson sent money to Jesselton for the construction of this clock, dedicated to his memory. It stands proudly next to Signal Hill Road, near the Police Station.
Sabah tourist board building.It is, along with the clock, one of only 3 buildings that survived the bombing of the area whilst occupied by the Japanese army.
	This memorial was to the Australian soldiers, who died during the war.My mate Dan had, like me, arranged several different activities, but saved a few free days for spontaneous adventure. After a quick chat with a member of the hotels excellent staff, we booked transportation and a guide, to see a few more things the following day.
Our first stop, was Sabah museum.This is us photographed outside.
	It wasn’t possible to take pictures inside the museum (I’m always disappointed when I hear that). Even more frustrating, the 3rd floor was closed to the public.The collection at the museum told of the history of Sabah, its independence and various sections about village living. Some of the artefacts were a little more eccentric, and here, a selection of old cars is on display.
This Rolls Royce stood out from the crowd (although there was no indication who had owned it, why it was special etc).
	As we wandered around the car park looking for a cafe, we noticed this outdoor section of the museum.I couldn’t contain my excitement. Shelter building is my favourite area of bushcraft, and here was a dozen different kinds of traditional long-houses. As you can see from this side view, an entire village can live in just one of these things.
Inside the long houses, it was cool and airy.Due to the design of the bamboo beds, they were springy and very comfortable. The poles above were used for hanging out clothes to dry, if it was raining outside.
	Another type of long house.
Inside another hut you can see the length inside, and that the walls are slanted in this design.
	I’m always inspired by the connection between past and present.Nearby is a modern hospital. Some health care professionals, had wandered over to the museum to relax in the shade and eat their lunch. They were kind enough to allow me to photograph them.
As we leave the museum, we pass the Kota Kinabalu state Mosque.Our next destination, was the Monosopiad Kadazan cultural village.
	Its name, Monosopiad, comes from the name of the original tribal leader.Before the SAS became involved in counter insurgency in Malaysia and the country became independent, the British government paid head hunters a bounty to hunt the communist insurgents. Its said that they would pay head hunters for each ear they brought back. I wasn’t so interested in that, but I wanted to see how these people would have lived in the jungle. The centre is both a museum, and a working example of a traditional Kadazan village.
As we arrived at the village we were given a complimentary drink of traditional rice wine.Our driver wandered around with us, and we were assigned a Kadazan guide, to show us around the village. The first stop on our tour, was music and dance. Not really our sort of thing, so we progressed on.
	As we continued around, we found 2 superb examples of Kadazan architecture.A traditional Kadazan long house, similar to the ones I had seen earlier in the morning…
And a much smaller house, where either the chief or spiritual leader would live.
	Although our guide and the other people there, don’t actually live in the village, they are all from the Kadazan tribe.Here our guide shows us some of the farming and harvesting tools used by the Kadazan, including this hand mill. He was extremely professional, and his English was better than mine.
An interactive section of our tour allowed us to take part in some hunting games.Here Dan has a go with a traditional blow pipe. Made of Ironwood, they really were superb, and I was most impressed with their accuracy.
	We were actually shown around the head room. Hanging from the ceiling above Dan, are the skulls of several people.It seemed barbaric, but like so many times on my travels, a closer look at the facts, reveal the complete opposite. The basic idea, is that when 2 tribes were heading towards war, the Kadazan would organise a simple dual to the death. That would mean that only one person would die, instead of several hundred. Our guide stated proudly, that his tribe very seldom lost. Once the head was brought back to the head room, it was prepared over the following 7 days and nights, during which time, the chief of the tribe would not sleep or eat. In effect, the ceremony, praised the head, as the dead man, had effectively given his life for the peace of both tribes.
Before heading off, we rest on the beautiful veranda, overlooking the the river (with more rice wine !).

A visit to Borneo, beautiful islands, amazing culture and kadazan headhunters (1/3).

1st February 200430th March 2016 admin Borneo 1 Leave a comment

	I’d heard loads of cool things about Borneo.When my old mate JK told me he was organising a multi- activity trip there, I couldn’t resist going.
The flight was from Heathrow early in the morning.I stayed with my friend Kathrin in London (we previously worked together at Arthur Andersen).We went out for the evening and met up with Yuko, who I’d met in Egypt.In the morning, I rose early, with a sense of adventure and headed for the airport (a lot simpler process, than I had expected, I normally struggle with the underground). The flight out was 12 hours. The selection of available films was limited. The good news was that the flight wasn’t full, so we stretched out in the empty seats. JK and I enjoyed a game of Who wants to be a millionaire. We actually won 3 times (although we had to play nearly 1000 games to achieve this !). Slightly annoying, was the confusion over my flight from Kuala Lumpur to Borneo. I ended up flying 2 hours later, on a different plane from the people in my group.
	I’d arrived in Borneo, 3rd largest Island in the world.I got into my room, got a shower, had a 2 hour nap, and then went out exploring the town.I have always loved the Jungle.Left unfettered, it knows no boundaries and will literally take over everything. I saw this especially in the Angkor watt and even in city area’s of Bangkok.On one occasion, where hotel construction had been delayed, a primary Jungle had grown right next to a main road in just a few days. Here in Kota Kinabalu, things were much the same. On the right of this picture, a small rainforest was constructing itself, complete with plants, insects and fish.
Here in the water, you can see a fish swimming about.I have no idea, how it could have gotten into a man made gutter, but its testimony to the shear magic and power of the Jungle.
	In the evening, there was the usual first night out which went on far too long (mainly my fault) and left many people tired and dehydrated the following day.That said, it was a holiday after all. A lot of the people hadn’t met before, but things went swingingly (but we didn’t do any swinging !).
As we broke into smaller groups and got to know each other, I got chatting to the excellent Steve.Steve is a great bloke, but very focused, and you can see from this expression, he wasn’t very pleased with the shot he had just taken.
	Some of the signs they had on the wall. Just go to show that Ale Houses around the world aren’t that different.
In the morning, I rise early (well, 9 o’clock) and head out to the “islands” that I had been hearing about.Along travelling with me were Dan, Richard (who I had met previously on a navigation course) and Jonny Crocket, the owner and director of Survival School.
	We set of from the Sutera harbour resort hotel.Its a 5 star hotel, with its own port and Marina. On previous trips, the lads had stayed there, but this time we were going for basic cheap accommodation.It was felt the money was better spent on real adventure, and I had to agree.We suit up with our flotation jackets, and the boat puts to water. It was pretty cool. Initially, it “put-put’s” out to water, but once clear of the Marina, it flew across the bay.
We arrived at Mamutek Island.It was like something from a Malibu advert.The water around this small charter boat, shows just how clean the beaches are.
	We disembark, and head along the Jetty to pay our Island tax (I didn’t mind, it wasn’t much, and goes towards keeping the island clean, and more than worth it).
Looking out along the beach. Fantastic.The lads had decided to go for a swim and rent some snorkelling equipment.I arranged to meet them later, and went exploring the island.
	…
It wasn’t a very big Island. A path from a secluded part of the beach, led to a trail that cut right across the backbone of the island.The vegetation and plants were amazing and this was a nice introduction to the more serious jungle trekking I would do later in the trip.
	There is no permanent hotel on the Island, and a few people there, were doing a diving course, so had erected their own makeshift accommodation.It looked like a refugee camp, but the people staying there seemed pretty cheerful.
I had a quick “go” of the snorkel.There were some very bright coloured fish in there.This picture doesn’t really capture it, but it was a beautiful day.
	As we leave I notice this man. His job is to literally sweep the beach and keep it tidy.Several times, I heard government sponsored radio advertisements encouraging people to keep their beaches clean.A slightly more laid back evening (again at the Irish bar) and then the next 2 days climbing Mount Kinabalu.
After an early night, to recover from Mount Kinabalu, I decide to spend the next couple of days finding out about the local culture.There are 30 identifiable ethnic and religious groups who live together in Borneo, in an environment of peace and relative prosperity.Throughout my trip, I found the people friendly and extremely helpful and wondered why, the Chinese were hosting the Olympics and not these fine people.I had heard of the famous Gaya street market, which is held every Sunday in the main high street, right near our hotel.
	The thing I really wanted to buy, was an authentic Parang (Malaysian Machete) which I had first seen, 20 years previously, in the SAS Survival Handbook, by John “Lofty” Wiseman.Unfortunately, technology had moved on, and all the machete’s in the market, were mass produced.I found a fairly authentic one in a nearby shop, which I would later take into the Jungle, whilst trekking the Salt Route.
Aside from Parang’s, the market, had literally everything you need or think of, and here a local politician holds a surgery at one of the stalls.

Four days in Budapest (2/2).

1st February 200419th June 2024 admin Budapest 2 Leave a comment

	Across the bridge, we took the Funicular to the top. Honestly, it would have been quicker to walk, but we were here in search of adventure and exploration, and the only way to do this, is to try new things (however boring they might be 🙂 We reach the top of Castle hill (made of limestone, it rises 550 feet above the Danube). The old town around here is the heart of tourism within the city. These statues outside Buda Castle are probably in the top 5 I have seen anywhere in the world.
The Royal Palace was completed in 1424. Today it houses the Hungarian National Gallery, the Budapest History Museum and the National Library. When we arrived, there were TV camera’s everywhere, as this Crane had turned over. Thankfully, it didn’t look like anyone had been seriously hurt.
	Just next to the Funicular is Sandor Palace. It used to house the Prime minister, but today it is used for Presidential Offices (it was completely destroyed in the 2nd world war, and rebuilt afterwards). We watched the rather camp changing of the guard.
I really liked the colour of the trees with the sun hitting them. Basically, there is no significance to this picture, except that I like it.
	Matthias church. It was described in my guidebook (before the idiot French people lost it !) as 13th century church named after 15th century king. Considering the area is so popular for tourism, sign posts were virtually non existent. I simply couldn’t find the military museum (which is a shame, as apparently, they have a really good exhibit about the 1956 uprising).
There were lots of Trabant cars. Agi had commented that her car was very difficult to drive, as it had a quirky gearbox. I saw this Mark III Ford Cortina. Same model as used in Life on Mars, one of the best TV programs of the last 20 years. Reminded me of my friend Frank who appeared in Life on Mars.
	Fisherman’s bastion. A truly enchanting place on castle hill. Its seven towers represent the seven Magyar tribes that settled in the Carpathian Basin in 896. The Bastion takes its name from the guild of Fishermen that were responsible for defending this stretch of the city walls in the Middle Ages. It is a viewing terrace, with many stairs and walking paths. It was designed and built between 1895 and 1902 on the plans of Frigyes Schulek.
It was the third day of our trip, so we decided to stop for a while and have a couple of pints. We found a really atmospheric underground bar nearby.
	God spoke to me, and commanded me to find the Hospital in the Rock. Well, when I say god, I’m talking about the god of adventure travel, Simon Calder, in his 48 hours in … series. The Hospital in the Rock opened its doors in February of 1944. It was built to treat 60 to 200 soldiers but they ended up treating around 600 soldiers and civilians. Beds built for one were ultimately shared between three people, with the least injured in the middle. Mid siege, and out of supplies, the kitchen were forced to use horse-meat to feed their staff and patients. Used again during the 1956 Hungarian Revolution 8 children were born here. It was upgraded and extended to a nuclear bunker in the early 60’s because of the Cold War. Designated “Top Secret” in the early 1960s with the code name LOSK 0101/1, it retained its classified status until 2002.
With advances in nuclear weapons, specifically the neutron bomb, the bunker’s ability to withstand the anticipated Armageddon came under question. A caretaker couple took over maintenance of the facility to keep things like air circulation, heating and humidity control in working order. The beds and other modern medical equipment were kept ready for use. It’s said the only time the X-ray machine was used, was by the janitor himself when he broke his finger. Finally opened to the public in 2006, the present-day museum was opened in March of 2008.
	Walking around on an hourly guided tour, the control room and associated machinery are still in operating condition. All of the first aid supplies and medical equipment are either stockpiled in rooms, or set out on tables, ready for use. The complex has dummy’s demonstrating most of the hospitals functions. In other circumstances, it would look theatrical, but with the humming of the generator, the cold air and stark lighting it feels like one of those star trek moments when everything is frozen in time. Run by a private company, their charter from the government says they must move out completely within 24 hours in case of a national emergency.
It got dark rather early, so I was able to get this picture of the Chain Bridge at night.
	The following day (rather jaded from our whirlwind tour of Budapest) we head for Gellert hill.
I had seen the statue in several pictures, and the first thing that struck me, was how much smaller it was. In the photo you can see, the pavement at the bottom and the top of the statues head, are less than 100m metres apart. Gellert hill, takes its name from St Gerard who is credited with introducing Christianity to the area, by being thrown down a hill (well technically, he was rolled down the hill, in a barrel).
	It was obvious that Glenn’s boot camp training was working, as he easily left me, on the walk up Gellert hill (although I wondered if he would have beaten me so easily, over 25 miles of flatter ground). I stopped to rest, and in the picture, have a sort of ET “sticky out head”.
We reach the top of the hill to find 2 interesting things. 1. Glenn looking pleased with himself. Glenn can be contacted through his Pine and Teak businesses, so I’ll just deal with the Citadel. 2. The Citadel fortress, built by the Habsburg in 1851 following the suppression of the 48-49 uprising. It contained 60 cannon, but was largely for show. The Hapsburg empire has always been a bit of a mystery to me. I mean you just know what the Roman, Ottoman, Egyptian empires where like, but what about the Hapsburg’s. My ex-wife Sarah gave me the best explanation some years ago. They are basically, like the people in Chitty Chitty Bang Bang (the kidnappers, not Dick Van Dyke et al). Today the Citadel, remains as a tourist attraction (and if it is, its probably the most hideous I have seen while travelling).
	Nearby is the famous Liberation monument. The statue was erected in 1947 after the second world war. The main figure is a woman, holding an olive branch, the symbol of peace in her hands. On both sides symbolic figures can be seen: the young man’s victory over the dragon represents the defeat of fascism. Controversially, the inscription has been changed over time as it originally gave praise and thanks to the Soviets for liberating the country: “Erected by the grateful Hungarian Nation in memory of the liberating Russian heroes” It now reads: “To the memory of all of those who sacrificed their lives for the independence, freedom, and success of Hungary “
The area around is popular with walkers as it has lots of trails and forests and stuff like that. As we wander around the parks nearby, we walk down the hill and see the Gellert baths, part of the famous Gellert hotel complex.
	Built in 1916, the Gellert hotel was built in Art Nouveau style, as you can see from the entrance, which faces the Danube.
We head over to the famous Church in the Rock. “built” in 1926, its modelled on the cave at Lourdes and houses the Pauline monastery. It was kept secret during the communist era. When we got there, it had electric doors and the inside looked like a boutique Once again, you had to pay to see a religious building, which I frankly resent, and once inside, you couldn’t take any photos. A bit disappointed, we carry on.
	We wander back along the Liberty Bridge. I don’t like to break with protocol, but I actually liked this bridge more than the Chain Bridge, which is considered a must-see.
Budapest has the largest Synagogue in Europe. It contains the Tree of Life Holocaust Memorial Funded by the Emanuel Foundation (including Tony Curtis), in memory of the 600,000 Hungarian Jews who were murdered by the Nazis. The tree, which is made of stainless steel and silver, is fashioned to look like a weeping willow. Inscribed on its 4000 metal leaves are the names of Hungarian Holocaust victims.
	As we walked along Vaci street we passed this restaurant. Something must have been lost in the translation. The food looked tasty and healthy, yet the restaurant was called Fatal !. Back to our hotel, we jump in a Taxi for the Airport. What do I think overall. I really loved this place, and I’ll definitely come back.

Four days in Budapest (1/2).

1st February 200419th June 2024 admin Budapest 1 Leave a comment

	Sat in my house. I receive a text: a taxi will arrive in a few minutes. get in it.Am I in a real life James Bond film ?. Where will I be taken ?. What will happen ?. Nothing so drastic. After nearly a year of UK based adventures, I have arranged a budget long weekend in Budapest. I am going with my friend Glenn and work commitments, mean he can’t pick me up directly, so he’s sent a cab on account. I arrive in Mickel Trafford and we drive to the airport. The adventure has begun. This photo was taken on Castle hill, overlooking the famous Chain bridge.
More excitement, as we arrive at the airport.Glenn has membership of a private lounge. We get a couple of “free” beers and a bacon butty. Later we read the papers and have a go on this Scalextric (which was set up to entertain children, but we didn’t care).
	So why Budapest ?.I’ve always been fascinated by Eastern Europe as I grew up during the cold war. Several of my friends had recommended it, and since I hadn’t visited Hungary before, the decision was easy. Its history is impressive. It has been controlled by empires of the Celts, Romans, Mongols, Ottomans, Austrians, Germans and Russian. Pest and Buda were the furthest lying areas of the Ottoman and Austrian empires. On the 17th November 1873 Buda, Obuda and Pest (for simplicity’s sake, Pest is the hill, and the 2 others are flat, on the other side) was unified and became one city. This vibrant mix of cultures, is what makes Budapest so Cosmopolitan. Its easily the nicest Eastern European city that I’ve ever visited.
Were on a budget, so we stay in a backpacker hostel – the 7×24 Central Hostel. The building actually contains a dental surgery, which is listed as one of the hostels services, along with no lock-out and free internet. We are met by our host Agi (who owns a Trebant) and given our complimentary drink of Palinka. We are shown around the hostel, which was bright and spotlessly clean. The living room had a really big tv, comfy sofa and a kitchen for making hot chocolate (and other types of cooking as well, I suppose). She speaks with enthusiasm in broken English. An accomplished traveller herself, she leads us to a map on the wall, and gives us a whistle stop tour of Budapest. She raves about a bar around the corner called the Katapult. We decide to stay local since its our first evening and visit the amazing Trofea Grill. All you can eat, normally puts me off, but the food was amazing, and you could drink as much bear and wine and eat as much steak and stuff like that as you liked, for a tenner.
	A friend once told me, when your on holiday, let your body take the rest it needs from you. I slept really well each night, and occasionally, slept in. On this particular occasion, Glenn didn’t sleep in, so was able to take this awful picture of me.
In the morning, we head out exploring (later in the trip, I lent my priceless DK Eyewitness guide to some French people, who lost it !). We walk along the famous Andressy Utca (a world heritage site), with its fine buildings and town houses. Glenn has been doing some research as well. I didn’t realise it, but the most popular souvenirs are maps. Budapest has an international reputation for map making (back in the days when British cartography consisted of “here be wild beasts”).
	As well as being steeped in history, the city was very modern. Many of the people we passed in the morning were dressed in business attire. I have no idea what this bank advertisement is saying, but with the flying knives, it captured my experience dealing with and visiting banks exactly.
At the top of Andressy Utca, is heroes’ square and the Millennium Monument with statues of the 7 tribes that founded Hungary in the 9th century. The monument was constructed to celebrate Hungary’s the 1000’th anniversary in 1896, but wasn’t completed until 1900. The square is complimented by the Museum of Fine Arts on its left and the Hall of Art on the right. The Serbian embassy is next to the square on Andrassy utca, and its here that Imre Nagy secured sanctuary in 1956. On the 16th of June 1989 a quarter of a million people, gathered for Nagy’s reburial (he was executed by the Soviets in June 1958). During the soviet occupation of Hungary, the Monument was completely covered by red textile and a statue of Marx, a worker and a peasant replaced many of the historic national heroes statues which were removed.
	Vajdahunyad Castle in city park was built between 1896 and 1908. Copied from a Transylvanian castle, it incorporates Romanic, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque styles. I was surprised to find it was originally made of cardboard and wood from the thousand year celebrations, and proved so popular that it was rebuilt from stone and brick.
As we wander further around, I realise that the moat was empty. A bit disappointing. In the castle courtyard, one of the most famous statues in Hungary, Anonymous. Reckoned to be a 12th century chronicler, he wrote the first history books (made up mostly of superstition and legend)’ Touching his pen is supposed to be lucky. It was so popular that there was a queue to photograph it.
	Just outside Vidam park, we find this sort of rock bar (well it had posters of famous rock bands, I just wasn’t sure if any of them had ever played there). Glenn comments that its time for a drink. I start to wonder what sort of trip this will turn out to be !. He has coke, and I have coffee. An impromptu “meeting” with this business partner Rob using apple’s facetime and the bars wireless network, demonstrates just how cool technology can be.
“When I am drinking wine” wrote Petofi Sandor, Hungary’s national poet “I am happy and I don’t care who is in power” The House of Terror museum, showed that not everyone felt the same way. It chronicled the atrocities committed against the Hungarian people by the Nazis and the Communists. The building had been used as an interrogation centre for the AVH secret police. I walked through a bright room showing Communist propaganda, and then the room next to it, that showed the reality. Poorly designed tin openers and radios that don’t work. There was some stuff about the 56 uprising including a video of the show trail of Imre Nagy. Most harrowing was a a slow lift journey, with a video interview explaining the daily hangings.
	A T34 tank of the kind used by the Russians to quell the 56 uprising, was located in the foyer of the museum. The pictures behind the tank, show just some of the victims of communist attrition. One very meaningful exhibit said: “Communism turned almost everyone and everything against itself. To tell a joke., to show too little enthusiasm, or give money to families of “social outcasts” or even just to nod at them. Anyone, who did not applaud loud enough, came under suspicion. The brave ones, who defied the atrocious terror regime, were wiped out and buried in unmarked graves, because even in death they represented a threat. The oppressive system did everything in its power to eradicate event their memories. Those, who risked their lives for the freedom of their country, were branded spies and traitors. We do not know the names of many of them, and old lies still keep circulating about some of them. Yet they were true heroes”. The last soviet advisor’s left Hungary in 1989.
I had a fairly focused idea of things to see and we blasted through the city on our pre-planned agenda. I had to remind myself though, that the 3 days we were away, were the only holiday I would have that year, and to take time to enjoy it, rather than just see it as an expedition. We passed by a railway station, and for no particular reason, decided to go inside and look around. Nyugati railway station. Trains run from here to the airport 3 times an hour for £1.
	The Hungarian parliament building (its sited on the banks of the Danube, but you can’t see from this photo). Modelled on the houses of parliament in the UK, it is the biggest parliament in Europe, and the largest building in Hungary. The architect, Imre Standle went blind before its completion. Mátyás Szűrös declared the Hungarian Republic from the balcony facing Kossuth Lajos tér on 23rd October 1989.
It was the anniversary of the uprising while we were there. I’d read previously about the 1956 uprising. A spontaneous, nationwide revolt against the Stalinist government and the courage and ingenuity of the Hungarians. The uprising took place between the 23rd of October and the 10th of November. Its was the anniversary, while we were there, and this tribute had been put up outside the parliament building with cards and flowers from people who had lost loved ones in the fighting. The flag with the hole in the middle (hammer and sickle cut out) became a symbol of the revolution. The new government formally disbanded the ÁVH, declared its intention to withdraw from the Warsaw Pact and pledged to re-establish free elections. By the end of October, fighting had almost stopped and a sense of normality began to return. After announcing a willingness to negotiate a withdrawal of Soviet forces, the Politburo changed its mind and moved to crush the revolution.
	On 4 November, a large Soviet force invaded Budapest and other regions of the country. Hungarian resistance continued until 10 November. Over 2,500 Hungarians and 700 Soviet troops were killed in the conflict, and 200,000 Hungarians fled as refugees. Mass arrests and denunciations continued for months thereafter. By January 1957, the new Soviet-installed government had suppressed all public opposition. These Soviet actions alienated many Western Marxists, yet strengthened Soviet control over Central Europe. Public discussion about this revolution was suppressed in Hungary for over 30 years. October the 23rd is a national holiday. As I wandered along, I found this statue of Imre Nagy. I learned that the revolt had originally begun as a student uprising. Later that day in the hostel, I would see live footage of the Milbank protest in London. The irony disgusted me.
Security around the US embassy was understandably tight so I had to use this stock photo I found on the web. On November 4, 1956, Cardinal Mindszenty walked up to the Chancery door. His Monsignor interpreter, they asked to come into the U.S. Embassy. The low ranking corporal wasn’t sure what to do, but since he had the keys, he let the cardinal into the embassy where he stayed in internal exile for the next 15 years !. The Cardinal used what is now the Ambassador’s office as his salon or sitting room, and he slept in the other, smaller room to the side. The police outside the Chancery were ever watchful should he try to escape, and they ran their engines day and night, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, just in case. The memorial plaque reads: “The Government of the United States of America gave shelter to Cardinal Joseph Mindszenty in this building between November 4, 1956 – September 28, 1971”
	Budapest previously had dozens of Soviet monuments and memorials. After independence, the Russian government were informed that they would all be removed except one and let the Russians decide which. This one remains, directly facing the US embassy.
After a busy day exploring, we head back to the hostel, and get cleaned up. I’m not particularly patriotic (although I am proud to be british and come from Manchester). Like many people abroad, I suddenly become more British, Irish, American etc when I’m in another country. It was the City/United Derby that evening and we decided to go an watch the match. The sports bar we found was a bit expensive (£3 rather than the usual £1.10 per pint) but was very quiet and enabled us to watch the match in peace. A bit disappointing since neither side scored and the game was rather uneventful.
	As we walk back, I get this night shot of St Stephens Basilica. In the evening, I found the area friendly and following normal/sensible security precautions, didn’t have any problems with theft, pickpockets at all.
The following morning I am not photographed sleeping, we get up, get some breakfast and head for Castle hill. Although the City was beautiful, we still found homeless people living in the doorways of these arches, just a few yards from a 5 star hotel.
	This picture shows St Stephens Basilica in the daylight. The Basilica, like the Parliament building, is 96m high, they are jointly the 2 tallest buildings in Budapest. This is to symbolise that worldly and spiritual thinking have equal importance and present building regulations make the building of taller buildings within the city an offence.
Roosevelt square (it had previously been called Unloading square !). It had some of the most beautiful architecture (and worst traffic) in the whole city. The 4 season Gresham hotel, is voted 17th in the top 100 hotels in the world (and is only 2nd in Europe). For fun, we looked at spending the night there. We couldn’t find anything under £600 per night !.
	Opposite the Gresham hotel is the Chain bridge, the first built over the Danube. When first constructed it was rated as a wonder of the world and had positive economic and commercial implications for the entire country. It was designed by William Tierney Clark. A larger versions of Clark’s Marlow Bridge, built across the River Thames in the UK, not surprisingly, in Marlow.

Visit to the famous Amster Damm (where it gets its name). No weed, and a sickeningly authentic steak house.

1st February 20041st February 2016 admin Amsterdam, Uncategorised Leave a comment

	Back in the days before Liverpool Airport was done up. (ie, When you could get a cheap pint before your flight, and something non-pretentious to eat !) I set off, with Easyjet, to visit Amsterdam.I’d visited Amsterdam for an afternoon while interailing some years before, but never “overnighted” there.I had heard lots of things about Amsterdam ( The usual “bike shed” conversations about prostitution and the “how hard am I” nonsense about weed) mostly that it was very modern and laid back.
I visited the famous port, where Amsterdam gets its name.There was a really interesting ship museum.I really loved wandering around, and all the people I met were friendly.
	I found details of an historic Pub Crawl.It visited 10 famous old pubs all over Amsterdam, so provided a good frameworkfor a tour of the city.This was a famous pub called the Apothokarie. In times past, the local Dr, would set up practice in an Ale house. The reasoning being that people would come to the pub, straight after work, and that they could gain healthcare as well as Ale from one source !.
I saw all of the usual sights, including the famous skinny bridge.Built by 2 sisters, who lived on different sides of the River, it enabled them to visit each other.
	I used to wear my hair short then, Lionel from the White Lion, used to cut it with clippers.Before going home, I visited a steak house, recommended in the rough guide.On the backs of the benches, were the hides of the animals which were being eaten, which created a slightly uneasy feeling.Went home the next day, will definitely go again.