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Embarking on a trip to walk the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, part of my trip takes me from Lima to Cusco.
The flight takes us over the Andes’, and as advised by our guide, we all get seats on the left hand side. I find myself sat next to a newlywed Japanese couple, who cant keep there hands of each other. The pictures of the mountains bellow were spectacular. |
| We arrive at the airport and are picked up by our driver and local guide, Wilfredo.
Cusco was the capital of the Inca Empire, and means literally navel or center, to signify it as the center of the Empire. All the traffic police seemed to be women in thigh length boots !. |
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We are driven to our hotel, where we get cleaned up, have a couple of hours free time, and then start a tour of Cusco
Our hotel had a beautiful courtyard where I sat with a bottle of coke. |
| Coricancha or temple of the sun was built during the reign of the Inca Pachacutec to honour Tawantinsuyos’ most important divinity and served as astronomical observatory .
At the summer solstice, sunlight reflected into a niche in the wall where only the Inca were permitted to sit. |
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The walls floors and alters were originally covered with gold.
Much of the wealth was removed to pay ransom for the captive Inca ruler Atahualpa at the time of the Spanish conquest. Atahualpa was later murdered and Francisco Pizarro awarded the site to his brother Juan. Upon Juan’s death, the structure passed to the Dominicans, who began to construct the church of Santo Domingo, using stones from the temple. |
| Many of the pictures show woman in skirts, which resemble high mountains (the people were forced to pretend to convert to Catholicism, but secretly held on to there own religion). |  |
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An ingenious restoration to recover both buildings after the 1953 earthquake lets you see how the church was built on and around the walls and chambers of the temple.
On the left, the walls of an Inca Temple, on the right, the wall of a Roman Catholic Church. |
| The Cathedral dominates the north-east side of the Plaza de Armas (main square) and sits directly over the foundations of the Inca Viracocha’s palace.
The Cathedral took 100 years to construct and inside there is an amazing Basilica, and more than 400 paintings. One of the paintings is of the Last Supper by Marcos Zapata showing Christ and the Apostles about to dine on guinea-pig, washed down with a glass of chicha!. It was one of my favourite sight’s in Cusco, but you weren’t allowed to take photo’s inside, which was disappointing. |
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We didn’t spend very much time at Sacsayhuamán, probably the most known tourist sight in Cusco.
The whole area was made of large walls (they only go up so high, as the top rocks were removed by the Spaniards for building). It is noted for an extensive system of underground passages known as chincanas which connect the fortress to other Inca ruins within Cusco. Several people have died after becoming lost while seeking a supposed treasure buried along the passages. This has led the city of Cusco to block off the main entrance to the chincanas in Sacsayhuamán. |
| Still in Sacsayhuamán we were asked to look closely at this rock, which apparently resembled a Condor or Llama or something.
I couldn’t see a thing. |
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We visit another site called Qenqo.
Until 1934, the whole are was covered beneath 3 meters of earth. On the right is the Condor monolith stone which in ancient times cast the shadow of a Condor onto the rocks behind it. |
| We head underground, and see this amazing chamber.
In the middle is a carved stone emplacement, which is either a throne or alter. Some children were around selling mint leaves. I bought some (saved me picking it myself) and it really did clear my nostrils. I was still suffering with AMS at this point, and at times appeared to stagger around, to the amusement of the other people on the trip. |
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The Tambomachay fountains
I tried and tried, but I couldn’t get a clear shot of the fountain, without someone in it. One the way back, I bought a warm hat for the trip from some stall holders. An interesting thing about Cusco, is that traders near to tourist sites, are actually cheaper than shops in the main square. This is the opposite of my experience in most tourist places around the world. I also bought a meditation blanket, which Ash found hilarious. |
| Back to our hotel, for a quick shower and a rest, and then out for the evening.
We visit a nearby Irish bar, Dan quickly becomes a regular as we discuss professional ethics (“would you write the software for landmine’s, for 10 times your salary” etc). Later we wander around the square, and visit a pretty good pub, called the Cross Keys. Only problem is, they didn’t do food, and we were hungry. We find a “Restaurant” offering Steak and Chips for around a fiver and sit down. A decision I am happy to forget. |
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The following day was free time. In reality, we were at 3400m and the main thing was just to get used to the altitude and acclimatize.
Many people who do similar trips, visit Colca Canyon and go white water rafting. This was a much shorter trip. I wander around the square a couple of times, and to be honest, wonder what I am going to do with the rest of the day. In the main square, in addition to the Cathedral was the Campania de Jesus. If you look to the right of the Church, you can see messages, “drawn” into the hills around Cusco (Cusco is completely circled by hills and mountains). |
| The Plaza de Armas or main square.
In ancient times it was called Huacaypata. Some say this means “The Warriors Square” others that it means “The Place of Tears” or “Weeping Square”. Anyway, there were plenty of latter day warriors out that day, celebrating something. Not sure what, but a video here, shows what it was like. |
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Just in the nick of time, I run into the girls, and we have some breakfast/11’s’s at a cafe overlooking the square. |
| Having hooked up with the girls, we decide to continue exploring.
We head out of the square, and through the back streets and squares, to the place referred to by the locals as “up the hill”. |
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Although the City is created on the ground in the shape of a Puma, its contours are more of a stadium or bowl shape.
I guess somebody has to walk up these stairs, each evening after work. I am glad its not me !. |
| I found a small park, and photographed the Town and buildings bellow through the tree’s. |  |
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These 2 fine ladies pose in traditional dress with Llamas. They only wanted about 50p, to be photographed and I thought it was well worth it. |
| Back at ground level, we wander out of the square to the place where the local villagers live etc.
A bit more modest than the touristy area. |
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I had seen a sign like this before in Nepal.
Some of the marketing techniques, used by local dentists, really are rather sinister. |
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In the end though, I was walking around with girls, and it wasn’t going to be long before we visited some kind of shop.
Between us, we bought most of the shop, from this friendly and helpful woman. |
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Ashima tries on this Alpaca wool jumper.
That isn’t a twinkle in her eye, she is wearing a money belt. |
| Although our guide didn’t know much about the town/nightlife around Cusco, my friend Amanda had been there 6 weeks before, and had all the inside info (she had actually been staying in the same hotel as we were).
We wander down this alleyway (which I was able to photograph, as my new camera has adjustable shutter speeds). |
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Amanda had recommended Jacks, “up the hill”.
Everyone came with me, and we had dinner there. I really liked the place, and wished I could have visited it again. There was another restaurant called Fallen Angel, that I really wish I had visited. |
| The following day, we drive out, and visit Olantay tambo.
Right next to the modern town, that sells walking sticks and Mars bars, is the site of this ancient ruin. The shape is said to resemble a llama. It was my first sight of classical Inca terraces (apart from a scene in Halo 2). They are used for farming. |
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The Sun temple.
Like many of the other ruins in the area, the enormous rocks, are so well carved, that its impossible to slide a piece of paper in between the joins. |
| The stone used to build this temple came from high up a mountain on the other side of the Urubambo river.
It would be a feat just to move this rock, let alone, carve and position it to withstand earthquakes. |
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Having seen the temple, we see a path that leads along a mountain side, right out of Indian Jones
The mountain in the background, contains a sort of warehouse carved into the rocks, Petra style. Apparently the temperature and humidity there are perfect for storing grain. |
Year: 2004
Oliver and Jess get married in Vegas. Gambling, drinking and horrendous shirts.
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I travel to the amazing city of Las Vegas in the United States, to celebrate the wedding of my good friend Oliver and his (now) lovely wife Jessica.It’s taken a little while to get this page done. I would like to thank Sarah Williams for providing the photographs, as I didn’t have a camera with me on the trip. |
| We stayed in the famous Riviera hotel.It was the hotel used in the film Casino.Like all the hotels in Vegas, all its facilities were open 24hrs a day. |  |
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Like most international trips, it was about 24hrs door to door.Upon arrival, it was important to drink lots of water, and get some rest…But we didn’t !.
We went straight out to a bar, and stayed up for another 10 hours, drinking into the night (this would set the theme for the entire holiday). At the back of this picture, is Martin. He was quiet and laid back throughout most of the trip. One night, we visited a night club (I was a bit nervous going through a metal detector !), and he came to life, we couldn’t keep him off the dance floor ! |
| The only truly awful thing about the trip, was my clothes !.I have to confess, that for several months during 1998, I owned and wore THIS shirt !.Oliver and Jess had organised the trip, when I arrived, I found that I would be sharing a room with John Davis (left) who Oliver worked with in London.
He was a cracking bloke, and we had loads of laughs throughout the week. On the right, Matt, was there with his girlfriend Fiona. |
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Most of the people on the trip were in couples and John and I frequently had knocks on our door, and invitations for a pint, whilst wives/partners watched the tv etc.Nicky and Sarah, lived in a shared house in the centre of Manchester. On nights when everyone went out “coupling”, we all went out together.We all went to see a comedian and wondered why table next to the stage was free, but thought nothing of it.
The comedian came on stage, realised we were Brit’s, and used us as a foil, for the rest of his act !. Painfully embarrassing. |
| Also on the trip was Scott, one of Oliver’s oldest and closest friends.It was a pleasure to meet him, as Oliver had told me lots about him.He came with his then girl friend (and now wife with 2 children) Victoria, who was from Canada.
On one occasion, during an evening out, I was telling everyone about a really famous film mistake in a James bond film made in Las Vegas (a red car is jacked up onto its right hand wheels to enable it to drive through an alley. When it comes out of the other side, its on its left hand wheels !) The next day, amazingly, it was on the television, and everyone saw it ! (how strange is that ?) |
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In the daytime, we wandered around the “strip” there were some amazing things to see (The mirage hotel has an underground zoo with white tigers.There was also an amazing water show, in the man made lake in front of the Belagio (featured extensively in oceans 11, it had only just been built at the time.This was one of the many amazing eateries we found there, based on a submarine, it was owned and built by Steven Spielberg. |
| Many of the hotels were enormous.The Venetian, and the Paris, have since been completed, but were still being built whilst we were there (at the time, the 5000 room MGM Grand, was the largest hotel in the world.
The New York New York, had a theme park complete with roller coaster on the roof. Of special interest, was the treasure Island hotel, which featured a pirate show, every hour. |
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There was all sorts of activity, with people swinging from ship to ship, sword fights and stuff like that.You can see how popular it was, by the backs of peoples heads in this picture. |
| Once again, a truly gruesome shirt, worn by me.When wearing it, people looked at me as though I should be picking cotton !.
The food in Vegas was superb, with buffets costing the equivalent of about £3, and you got all you could eat with up to 300 different dishes, from Thai Green curry, to pancakes. My favourite food here, was steak, which was delicious, and cost next to nothing. We sit down for the evening, at a steakhouse inside the hotel. On my right, is Oliver’s excellent uncle Pete, who was a great laugh, throughout the whole trip. |
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Just to show the size of the portions, this rack of ribs, is too big for the plate, and cost a few pounds.The steak I normally ate, was the thickness of a 20 cigarette packet and 8 inches in diameter for £5.
They take customer service very seriously in that country, and it was a delight to be looked after so well. |
| You wouldn’t go to Egypt, without riding a camel.Sarah gets started on the slot machines.
They even provided plastic cups for storing coins. |
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Oliver puts a few “bucks” onto the roulette table.I am not a massive fan of gambling, so I set myself a budget of £30 (which I lost in about 15 minutes !). |
| Oliver’s brother Dale on the slot machines.We found out that the longer you gamble on a machine or table, the more perks you get.
If you played the slot machines for long enough, you would get drinks, cigarette, and even sandwiches (which sometimes cost more than the total you had “lost” to the slot machine). |
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The night of the stag and hen Party.Unfortunately, these are Sarah’s pictures, and so only feature the Hen do
The girl on the right, is Matt’s girlfriend Fiona. |
| They went to see a Jazz band at the amazing Bellagio hotel. |  |
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Here, hearing of her impending marriage, the lead singer of the band gives Jess some “attention”. |
| The stretch limo “thing” just had to be done !.We were picked up from outside our hotel, and driven to the New York, New York hotel further up the strip, for the wedding ceremony. |  |
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The bride, resplendent in her beautiful wedding gown. |
| Oliver is my friend.He has always had a bit of a cynical edge to him (as most of my friends do, which perhaps says something about me !).
I have seen Oliver happy many times, although usually, this is because of a particularly good kebab, or the first pint of a Friday night. On this occasion, he really was happy and contented, and I knew that they would be happy together. Jessica’s sister Andrea was her maid of honour, and Scott was Oliver’s best man. |
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The next day, Jessica’s family hosted a farewell Barbeque for the visiting UK guests.At first I expected to see Jessica’s step father operating the grill, and Jessica’s mum putting the burgers onto the buns
However being Americans (and thinking a bit bigger than everyone else), it was actually cooked and served by outside caterers in a holiday apartment that belonged to a friend of theirs. It was nothing short of spectacular. We flew home the following day, and it snowed in Las Vegas for the first time in 14 years. Oliver and Jess now live in Chicago. I remember the young mouthy engineer from IBM, and I knew then he would amount to great things. I have had many chances to go back to Las Vegas, but I never will, I wouldn’t want to spoil the memory of such a special trip. |
Visit to the 100 mile an hour city and a stay at the Waldorf Astoria (1/2)
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Sarah and I set of for the city that never sleeps, New York.We were ready to visit New York, on several occasions, waiting for the right deal.We got a 3 night trip to New York, flying from Manchester and staying at the Waldorf Astoria. |
| The Waldorf harks back to a different time in history.It was a lot like in the film Titanic, when you see how the people in first class are treated. |  |
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The lobby bar/restaurant, is one of the most famous sights in New York.When I visit a City, I normally make a list of all the places I want to see.This was the first trip where one of those places was actually the hotel where I was staying. |
| Our room was very comfortable and stylish.It featured a walk in wardrobe, Stereo television, and broadband (I was able to continue working on my web site whilst there).Our room was cleaned/turned down 3 times each day and was spotlessly clean. |  |
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I had forgotten my plug adapter, when I called down for one, it arrived 5 minutes later, and they called again 20 minutes later to confirm I had received it.It lacked Tea and Coffee making facilities, when we asked about these, they seemed astounded that a guest of theirs would choose to make their own coffee.They advised us to call down, and that they would make us a cup of one of the 51 types of Coffee they had. |
| The world famous Chrysler building.At the time it was built, it replaced the Eiffel tower as the largest man made structure on earth.Chrysler accused the Architect Van Allen of taking bribes and refused to pay his fee (this ruined him, and ended his career).Although Chrysler lost control of the building in the 1950’s it still kept its original name. |  |
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As we walked through Little Italy and Chinatown on our way to lower Manhattan, we saw this Chinese McDonalds. |
| The Brooklyn Bridge with it Gothic Arches. |  |
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During its construction, many people died from the “bends” when they were working bellow the water surface in pressurized chambers. |
| People travelling across from Brooklyn to the island.Brooklyn is the only district of New York that isn’t in Manhattan (when New Yorkers refer to the city, they mean Manhattan Island).It is reckoned that 1 in 7 famous Americans are from Brooklyn (by the people of Brooklyn at least !).There were many people jogging across the bridge. |  |
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View from the Bridge, overlooking the financial district . |
| City Hall.The Mayors residence, and the sort of Town Hall of New York.This is where Thomas Jefferson read the declaration of independence. |  |
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In the grounds of City Hall, A statue of Nathan Hale.During the war of independence, he volunteered to act as a spy and go behind British lines to report troop movements.He was caught almost immediately and hanged.His famous last words were “my only regret is that have only 1 life to give to my country”. |
| The top of the most famous financial area in the world – Wall Street.Security is very tight, the large rocks on the bottom left of this picture are designed to look like modern art, but are also there to stop suicide bombers from driving vehicles into the the street. |  |
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A view down the length of wall street, showing the Trinity Church.I was surprised at just how small, wall street was (it was about 30-40 feet wide) I had imagined somewhere the size of Broadway.It was a Saturday, so none off the money people were around. |
| The rear entrance of the New York stock exchange, the largest stock exchange in the world.Once again, there was perimeter security and an armed guard at all times. |  |
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The front of the New York Stock Exchange.The basis of the NYSE was the Buttonwood agreement (so named as it was signed under a buttonwood tree), originally signed by 24 brokers on the 17th of May 1792.The first company listed on the exchange was the Bank of New York (it now has 2,800).It is far and away the largest Stock Exchange in the world, by share value and the 2nd largest by number of companies quoted. |
| The Trump Building (not to be confused with the Trump Tower).When built, was in competition to be the tallest building in the world, with the Chrysler building.In the end, the Chrysler building won, as a 185 foot spire (delivered and assembled in secret) was added to the top.Both buildings were beaten by the empire state building completed 18 months later. |  |
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Here the Trump Building is visible from the Brooklyn Bridge.At first I thought it was the Empire State building, which I found out later, is in the completely opposite direction. |
| When we saw this old Pub near wall street, we were thinking of popping in for a drink.This is actually the Fraunces Tavern Museum of revolutionary history.We found out, that during the war of Independence, the Americans fought from Manhattan island when the British arrived in ships, with a force twice the size of the Spanish Armada. |  |
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Battery Park.It was a nice park, with lots of harmless street hawkers selling pictures and I Love NY T-shirts and baseball caps.I took the opportunity to get an authentic NY hot dog.In the center of the park, was a memorial to people who died in the Korean War.
It was a clever design featuring a metal obelisk, with a hollow cut out in the shape of a soldier. Its a kind of new angle on unknown soldier memorials, as the sculpture implies, insert any solider here. |
| The statue of Liberty photographed from Battery park.The queue for the boat to Ellis Island where the Statue of Liberty is located, was a quarter of a mile long, even on a work day.Sadly, on short adventure trips like this, there was no time to queue. |  |
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I saw this sculpture in Battery park, it had a plaque underneath it, which said:For three decades this sculpture stood in the plaza of the world trade center.Entitled “The Sphere”, it was conceived by artist Fritz Koenig as a symbol of world peace.It was damaged during the tragic events of September 11, 2001, but endures as an icon of hope and the indestructible spirit of this country.
The Sphere was placed here on March 11, 2002 as a temporary memorial to all who lost their lives in the terrorist attacks at the word trade center. |
| Later we visited the site of the twin towers.On the wall was a timeline showing the events of September the 11th, and a request to keep the site a special place.An orange board carried a message I found hard to forget:
“The draw of New York City has been strong and constant for centuries. People from all over this country and the world have made incredible journeys to come here, to live here, to experience the indescribable force of life that is found around every corner. New York City’s was built on an Island of bedrock, A strong foundation for a soaring city. The World Trade Center attacks exposed the Islands natural bedrock once again, reminding us all of the city’s indestructible core. As New Yorkers already understood and the world would come to realize – the resilience needed to endure was here all along.” |
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The viewing platform had gone, and it was difficult to see the site, as work was about to begin on the remembrance tower, the following day.
A view was possible from inside World Financial Center. It was very hard to stand there, and not feel angry. Some people have said its wrong to photograph the area, as its a graveyard. I took this picture because I want to remember. |
| Outside the World Financial Center.
It was a nice day, and people were relaxing, pushing prams reading newspapers etc. |
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On the forecourt facing towards the Hudson river, the views were spectacular.
We had coffee, which in New York is always excellent. |
| Inside the World Financial Center they have somehow managed to grow Palm tree’s. |  |
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We walked back up through Trebeca and Soho.
Trebeca stands for Triangle beneath the canal, indicating an area on a map of New York. These places had once been run down, but are now, quite trendy shopping areas, with many people living in loft apartments. To illustrate how busy it was, I went into a coffee house. There were 18 people queuing in front of me just to use the toilet. |
| We continued up, and came to the Empire state building.
Despite its age (and that people remember it most from King Kong) its still the tallest brick building in the world. |
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Visit to the 100 mile an hour city and a stay at the Waldorf Astoria (2/2)
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Union Square was quite a fun trendy place, where loads of students and arty types were hanging out.We stopped for yet another coffee (that stuff can get addictive in New York.) |
| We decided to get a cab back to the Hotel (we had always intended to travel in a real New York Taxi.)Apparently Rudi Juliani, did much to combat corruption and crime in New York (its said to be much safe than it was 10 years ago).There is a number you can call, if you believe you have been overcharged, and its investigated immediately.
Our driver was quite friendly, and took us the quickest rout back to our hotel. |
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The following day, we set of for more adventures.We kicked of with a visit to the United Nations building.I really wanted to see a statue they had there, which shows a person with a sword, which is bent at the end, to become a plough.
Unfortunately, it was closed, but was magnificent from the outside. |
| We visit the Rockefeller center with its amazing collection of flags. |  |
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A dedication stone to one of the worlds most famous philanthropists. |
| Broadway was everything I expected it to be.There were shows, bright lights, superb restaurants, and tv studios like NBC.Not even driving rain could dampen the enthusiasm of its visitors. |  |
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Carnegie Hall.Loads of people were going past in tourist buses. We decided not to, and did our own “walking tour”. |
| Tipping is part of the US culture. People are taxed on their expected tips, whether they get them or not. No problem really, as we had budgeted for this, but it was a little embarrassing at times when they went to lengths to tell us they expected a tip, and we already knew.It was at its most annoying, in the hotel. I actually wanted to carry my own bag, but people insisted on carrying it, and then almost forced me to give them $5.That said, the service in bars and restaurants like this one, were superb. They would check if your drink was getting low, politely ask if you would like another, and it would be in front of you in under 60 seconds. |  |
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My steak was fantastic, and everything I had come to expect from America.I did find the place very status orientated and it was quite common for people to look at your clothes, before they would look at your face.On the other hand, I didn’t see many malcontents. The guy that sold me a hamburger, looked like he worked hard, and considered himself to be on the first rung of life’s ladder, not one of life’s hard done to.
New Yorkers I guess are hard like that, but then its that mentality that built the spectacular city of New York. Manchester/Chester People are much more friendly, but our city isn’t quite as good. |
| We took a picture of a famous New York police car (we watch a lot of 3rd watch, on FX).Security is taken very seriously in the country now, so my original idea of having our photo taken with a “Cop” was discarded. |  |
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What are the odds of this.I am in a spectacular hotel on the other side of the world, in a place that looks a bit like my home, but couldn’t be more different.Sarah and I relax in our room, switch on the TV, and my favourite UK show, The memoirs of Sherlock Holmes, were on, and it was an episode I hadn’t seen. |
| The hustle and bustle of Park Avenue on the way back to our Hotel. |  |
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Not my choice, but we ended up going to Bloomingdales.It was actually a lot more friendly and fun than I thought it would be.
They had some pretty smart carved objects, which we were considering buying for our house. On reflection we realized that they were ashtray’s and neither of us smoke !. |
| I had to take a picture of this amazing shop from outside, as they had rules about photography.Basically, it was a kitchen utensil shop, similar to one in the UK. The difference was that it had a fully fitted kitchen, and a qualified chef cooking food for everyone, and demonstrating the articles for sale.
Really friendly shop staff, wandered around the store inviting questions. I have never worked in retail, but I couldn’t help thinking if I did, that’s how I would run my shop. |
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We visited this fairly upmarket convenience store (we had visited a conventional one previously as part of the New York experience).They had every kind of herb and an extensive collection of wine.
Thing I thought was most impressive, was cooked food, which you could take out. Like the old single man’s trick of buying a curry from the curry house, and then putting it in a pan and stirring it, as a female guest arrives. You could buy Chilli, and all sorts of “home cooked” food 24hrs a day, take it home, and pretend you made it. |
| Several skyscrapers around upper midtown Manhattan.The black one in the center is the worldwide headquarters of IBM.
My old boss went there years ago, when we worked together in Manchester, and I remember him saying how excellent the building was. |
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The attitude of New Yorkers is legendary, but I found it was possible to break through it.On one occasion in the hotel bar, I entered and the bar keep gave me the usual script and asked me if I was well etc.
I replied and asked politely for a beer, and said thank you when I received it (I do this in every country I visit, I believe that we are all ambassadors for our country). As I reached my 3rd drink, and said thank you, the bar keep met my eyes, and said “No, Thank you !” with real meaning. Just a simple act, but I found it touching, and although I have no plans to do it, I am sure I could do well living in a City like this. |
| The famous Trump TowersTo the right of the picture, you can see an American Flag. They were everywhere you went in New York, and I admire the pride people have for the flag.
An American friend who lives in the UK, actually commented, that we only seem to see the Union Jack when there is a football championship on. Slightly annoying, is street furniture like these street lights, which ruin the shot. They seem to appear, wherever I go, I wish town planners around the world would consider this. |
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A view of the Trump Tower, looking up.Built (according to his biography) ahead of schedule and within budget.
Probably back in the days when he had his own hair 🙂 |
| St Nocholauses Church.In Tokyo, there are many traditional “Old Edo” buildings, like little Islands in the middle of an ocean of skyscrapers.
New York, had an element of this, with Old Cathedrals and Church’s performing a similar role. |
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We go for a short wander around the amazing Central Park.New York is sometimes described as the largest film set in the world, due to the number of films its been featured in.
Nowhere is this more true, than Central Park. |
| The path around the reservoir in central park, has been set up as a running track (6 miles) people are encouraged to walk or run in an anti-clockwise direction.An enthusiastic Park employee, insisted on giving us a map, and answering all our questions (and even answering questions we hadn’t asked, which she thought were interesting anyway). |  |
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The Guggenheim museum viewed from Central ParkOne of only 2 disappointments during the the trip.
The famous Guggenheim museum was undergoing repairs to its roof, so we were unable to see it. The other disappointment was the famous Sea/Air/ Space museum, which features and Aircraft carrier, Concord, S71 Blackbird spy-plane and a Nuclear sub. We ran out of time, and didn’t end up seeing it. I am going back to New York next year as part of a US tour, and I will see it then. |
| After a short wander around the park, we decided to get a horse and carriage, and go on a tour of the park.Sarah was really looking forward to this, and as I had failed to deliver promised carriage ride on our trip to Rome, it seemed the right thing to do. |  |
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The lake was a very relaxing place.Although it was technically winter, it was quite warm in just a jumper, and the sun came out a couple of times. |
| Our Carriage driver was very friendly, and insisted on showing us the sites of the park, and mentioning details of film sets.Here, the famous Belvedere Castle, which features a nature reserve.
In the far background a building with 2 towers was used in the film ghost busters. |
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This summer house was featured in the film home alone 2.In the background you can see the tall residential buildings which surround the park on all side. |
| Grand Central station.Featured in the beginnings and endings of literally thousands of films.
It was spectacular inside. We visited it briefly, as we got the bus to the airport, on our way home. I have spent lots of time in Jungles around the world, and clichés aside, this was the closest I have come to seeing one made off concrete. As stated earlier, I will be going back there. |
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At the airport on the way home.A few observations about travelling to/from New York.:
1. Continental Airlines didn’t have all the hi-tech stuff that Emirates have, but their staff were superb, and they treated you like a member of their family. 2. Don’t be put off, by immigration. When I arrived, I was frowned at and instead of the usual business or pleasure question, I was asked “why are you here”, like an old boyfriend at a previous girlfriends wedding. They aren’t being unkind, they are doing it for your safety as well as their own. 3. Make sure you are wearing clean socks when you travel through the airport and that your trousers fit reasonably well. You will be asked to remove your shoes and belt. Its pretty bad if your pants fall down. |
Prague: home of Emil Zatopek and numerous Irish bars.
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Jo Crawshaw, Me and a few other friends (who decline to be named or photographed 🙂 set off to Prague.Prague is one of the places I have always really wanted to see, and I was looking forward to it.
Sarah stayed home, in order to save for our New York trip. |
| We saw this add for a car rental company.Most of the cars we saw were western and quite modern, which surprised me as Prague had been part of the eastern block, during the cold war. |  |
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We stayed in the superb diplomat hotel and had a brief “party” in our room, where the min-bar was raided.Here we pass through the front gates of the Castle, where armed soldiers perform a similar role to the ones in Buckingham Palace. |
| Heading West out of the Castle, we walk down some historic steps, before crossing the a bridge and visiting the Jewish Quarter. |  |
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An alternative route to the centre, was a walk through the famous Letna Park, which had spectacular views of Prague. |
| The old town square.An eccentric old man, played the trombone at annoying volume. |  |
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Jo and I visited a Market in the old town square.The sun hitting the square had to be photographed. |
| The famous astronomical clock.Hundreds of people flocked to see it, each hour.
To be honest, I thought it was quit bland. |
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A pipe shop, named after Sherlock Holmes.Seemed to be some problem with the spelling. |
| Wenceslass square.Not particularly different from any major shopping area, in any major city in the world.
Disappointing. |
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At the top of Wenceslass square, there was a museum.A student had famously set himself on fire, as a protest against the Russian invasion in 1968.
He died after 4 agonising days, there is a cross outside the museum to commemorate him. |
| The internationally famous Buffalo Bills Mexican restaurant.For one reason and another, we never actually got to eat there. |  |
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Statue in the park next to the Jesuit College. |
| Prague Botanical Garden.I hadn’t completely thought this through, but since it was winter, everything was dead.
Was nice to walk through the park though. |
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The famous Ginger and Fred building.Apparently, its a building made to look like 2 buildings dancing together. |
| The only authentic thing in Wenceslass square, is the internationally famous Europa Hotel.It was featured in the film Mission Impossible. |  |
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We went inside for a drink.The décor was like being in a Dickens novel. |
| St Charles Bridge. |  |
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As we crossed the bridge, we stopped off, to visit Kampa Island.
A rock band were performing a concert there. They weren’t exactly Metalica, but they were enthusiastic and didn’t cost any money. |
| A bit hard to see, but there was a drinking hall on Kampa Island, called Pub 1 (as you can imagine, it was next to another called Pub 2 !).
Its a bit hard to see, but the roof inside was perfectly curved. |
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The east gate of Prague castle.
It features 2 statues of Hercules. |
| 3 Photo’s of St Vitus’s chapel in Prague Castle. |  |
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View from the castle out over Prague. |
| We walk down from the castle, through Nerudova street in the little quarter.
The little quarter was my favourite part of Prague. |
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One of the many excellent beer halls, on Nerudova Street.
The logo denotes the name of the building, the house of the 3 fiddlers, as previously, 3 violinists had lived here. |
| The Church of St Nicholas, further down Nerudova street. |  |
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Another view of St Charles bridge, showing a bit more of the river. |
| National Theatre, taken from the little quarter. |  |
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A more detailed view of the Theatre building. |
| A tobacco shop, modelled on Winston Churchill. |  |
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To finish off the trip, before our flight home, we relax in a beer hall, next to the Old Town Square. |
Visit to the Russian Federation, overnight train and 2 days in Moscow (2/2).
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I get up the next morning, and like the song goes, its a new day at midnight, and I awaken with a new energy and sense of purpose.We have a tour of the Kremlin in the afternoon so in the morning we decide to go of exploring on our own.
As we wander around, we see this boat sailing on the Moskva river (Moscow takes its name from this River). |
| I had read in my Guidebook, that Moscow is unique for a “developed” country, in that it doesn’t have any ethnic specific areas like Chinatown or Little India.We manage to find Gorky park. I had been keen to see it, but as we get nearer the gates, I decide not to go in, as I have always imagined it a certain way and worry ill be disappointed, as a park is after all, just a park.
Instead, we head for the nearby Museum of fallen monuments which my friend Mike Delafield had recommended from his trip. There are loads of old statues, positioned around this sort of park next to a trading estate. |
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The hated “Iron Feliks” which previously stood in Lubyanka square. |
| A Statue of Stalin. Look closely at the nose, and you will see where its been hit with a hammer and vandalised.One good thing, was that the weather throughout the day was superb. |  |
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One of the more traditional communist images of a perfectly formed man with gelled hair, fighting for Mother Russia. |
| This enormous statue of Peter the great sailing was an affront to the eyes. |  |
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Cathedral of Christ the Savior.Originally built in the 19th century in commemoration of the Russian army’s victory over Napoleon.
It was destroyed after the revolution on Stalin’s personal orders. Architectural drawing and measurements, were taken just before it was destroyed, this made a complete reconstruction to the exact specification of the original in 1994 possible. |
| The Pushkin museum of fine art is a must-see sight in Moscow.Unfortunately, we were running late for our tour of the Kremlin, so passing it on the street was as close as I got. |  |
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We walk around Alexander square, which we had seen the previous day from the other angle.It was a national holiday, so the place was packed (lots of people were drunk and staggering around, but overall the mood was friendly).
There were hundreds of soldiers and police everywhere. The sun was up, and the colour of the water in the fountains outstanding. |
| Our agreed meeting point, was this statue outside the Moscow state archives.Vasily Ivanovich Chuikov was the famous general who took Berlin from the Germans.
Recognising him as a potential rival, Stalin “rewarded” him with retirement to a small village and a removal from public life. |
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At the arranged time, we meet our guide and head for the Kremlin.Citadel of the Tsars, headquarters of the Soviet Union and now the residence of the Russian President.
In the background is Trinity tower one of only 2 public entrances into the Kremlin. Napoleon marched in triumph through this gate in 1812. He left defeated a month later. Only official qualified guides are permitted to conduct tours in the Kremlin. Due to the holiday, It was closed to all but official guides and pre booked foreign tours. On the plus side, this meant that it was practically empty when we got inside. |
| The state Kremlin palace. Built by Kruchev in 1961.It actually has 5 floors bellow ground, so that it doesn’t rise high above the older classical building.
Its 6000 seat auditorium was previously used for political rally’s but today is a more likely venue for ballet and rock concerts. |
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The ceremonial residence of the President of Russia. Since the Kremlin is a working arm of government, only half of it is available to the general public.Putin’s office. He does not live here (like in 10 downing street) and only the President and the ruling party have offices here, the actual parliaments are outside the Kremlin. |
| Various diplomatic cars are parked outside the Senate building. |  |
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The famous Tsars Pushka (canon). Weighing 38 Metric Tonnes it is listed in the Guinness book of records as the largest Howitzer ever made.It has never been fired, and considered to have been a showpiece of military might, rather than a functional weapon.
This is illustrated by the Cannon balls. They were constructed more than 300 years after the Cannon, and can’t actually fit inside its barrel !. |
| Cathedral of the Assumption.There are 5 churches inside the Kremlin. We walked around inside this one, but weren’t allowed to take any pictures. |  |
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On the right, is the famous Ivan the great bell tower.It is called “Great” due to its height. In 1600 it was the highest building in Moscow. |
| Outside the bell tower is the enormous Tsar Bell (the largest in the world).It fell from the tower in 1701 during a fire and shattered.
The bell wasn’t terribly lucky, and its parts were used to make a 2nd bell. When the Kremlin caught fire in 1737, cold water was poured over the hot bell and a large piece broke off (its missing from the other side of the bell, and can’t be seen from this picture). |
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With our tour complete, we leave through the 2nd gate.In the centre of this picture, is the state armoury, one of Stalin’s 7 sisters.
Our guide advises us that the state armoury and the diamond room are definitely worth seeing (I was a bit surprised that they weren’t included in the tour). When I had a look, the queue’s for both were enormous (to be expected on a state holiday). I decided to kill some time and visit Pushkin square, where the first Macdonald’s in Russia was opened. Various roads were closed and I there were large crowds everywhere. I decided to just go back to my hotel. |
| That evening I was supposed to go to the Circus, but decided not to.From my experience, some trips are holidays and some trips are adventures (many are both).
A 3rd category of trip, is one which isn’t particularly pleasant, but broadens the mind. This was one of those trips. I have to say that I was miserable for most of it but in the end, I’ve experienced Russia. The night before I fly home, I find myself in the Hotel bar, paying a fortune for flat warm beer, and suffering offensive staff while I watch some ice skating reality TV program I hate. |
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Visit to the Russian Federation, overnight train and 2 days in Moscow (1/2).
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We arrive at Moskovsky station, St Petersburg for our night train to Moscow.
Its identical “brother” station is, not surprisingly called the Leningradsky station and is located in Moscow. There is some confusion in the shop. There are apparently too many customers, and the shop is closed. The travelling is a bit of an ordeal, but I have always dreamed of visiting Moscow and standing in Red Square so it will all be worth it. |
| As our group have a look around the station, some of the girls and I guard the bags.
Minutes later we head for the platform and walk next to easily, the longest train I have ever seen. The Jobsworth Hitler of a train guard demands passports and stamped documentation, but is content to stop at a urine sample which is a relief to everyone !. He later tells our guide Artem to encourage us to buy drinks from him ?. |
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In the train sleeper Cariage.
It was very cramped and hot and we were next to the fire exit so couldn’t open the window. I wore my Rohan Goa trousers (I bought them for use in the tropics, I never thought they’d be so useful for rail travel). I put myself into a relaxed mental state (something I practice doing regularly, for situations like this) and got about 7 hours sleep. A few of the other passengers had a rough night. |
| We arrive in Moscow and clamour to get off the train, get some fresh air and stretch our legs. |  |
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We are driven by coach from 3 station’s square (its a square with 3 railway stations in it) to our fairly cosmopolitan hotel.
We drop off our bags and head for the Metro station. The Moscow underground was built in 1929 and is considered to have some of the worlds most beautiful underground stations. |
| This station Ploshchad Revolyutsii featured extensive statues of ordinary people bravely fighting for Russia.
People kept walking past and touching the dogs nose (Its considered lucky to touch brass). It wasn’t very lucky for the statue dog, who’s nose was a completely different colour from the rest of him and his “owner”. |
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Changing of the guard.
We change our itinerary briefly as just at that moment, the changing of the guard is taking place at the Tomb of the unknown soldier in Alexander Gardens. The Tomb of the unknown soldier is a war memorial, dedicated to the Soviet soldiers killed during the Great Patriotic War of 1941 – 1945. The torch for the memorials eternal flame, was transported from St Petersburg (at the time named Leningrad) when it had been lit from the Eternal Flame at the Field of Mars. The inscription on it says “1941 – To Those Who Have Fallen For The Motherland – 1945” |
| Theatre square. So named as it contains the Bolshoi, Maly and Russian Youth Theatre’s.
The Theatre behind the portakabins is the Bolshoi Theatre. Tchaikovsky’s ballet Swan Lake premièred at the theatre on Saturday, March 4, 1877. |
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Marx statue opposite Theatre Square.
Its inscription reads: Пролетарии всех стран, соединяйтесь!. Which actually means: Proletarians of all countries unite!. |
| We wandered around to find somewhere to get a coffee (we had eaten breakfast at the hotel, but caffeine was needed).
As we strolled around, we passed the famous Hotel Metropol, where Lenin gave several famous speeches. |
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Outside the hotel, is this revolution carving. |
| Moscow has been named the worlds most expensive city for the 2nd year running and 75 billionaires live there (more than any other in the world).
No surprise then, to find luxury car showrooms everywhere !. |
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Lubyanka building in Lubyanka square – synonymous with terror and the secret police (it had previously been an insurance building).
The home of the FSB, Formerly the KGB and formerly the Cheka’s, founded by “Iron Feliks” Dzerzhinskiy. His statue was torn down by a cheering crowd and now resides in the Graveyard of fallen monuments. |
| Although I had problems changing cash throughout the trip, some people were drawing cash from cards, and had endless problems due to fraud protection.
The problem was compounded with the cost of Mobile calls from Russia to banks at home, which at times, cost more than the amount of money, people wanted to withdraw. Here, after much messing about, Shane returns with some cash having successful withdrawn money from the cashpoint. |
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After all the travelling, stress and bureaucracy, we arrive at Red Square
Stand in Red Square, has been written as a to-do on the bluelist which I re-read every day for the last 4 years. I’m standing right next to it and I am having trouble containing my enthusiasm. We walk to wards the entrance and… |
| Find that its closed.
Clearing my head I decide to be practical, there is always a solution. I discuss jumping the fence, renting an army uniform, bribing security. Artem tries everything he can but police just don’t seem to care and adopt the mildly irritated, “why are you bothering me with this” attitude that I am now tired of seeing. He explains that there is nothing he can do, and it won’t re-open until after we have left. |
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The trip had disappointed me in many ways up to this point. At that moment it was effectively over for me, and just a matter of how quickly I could get home. |
| Its decided that we will “circle” the square (if that makes sense ?) and see the main parts of it, from the back.
The GUM is the most luxurious shopping centre in Russia and its full name Gosudarstvennyy universalnyy magazin dates back to its nationalisation in 1921. Although shopping emporiums don’t normally float my boat, it really was rather spectacular. |
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As we round the corner towards Saint Basil’s a security man is still guarding the gates. |
| St Basil’s is quite fantastic. Legend has it, that Ivan the Terrible had the architect Postnik Yakovlev blinded once it was completed, so that his work couldn’t be repeated.
In my minds eye, the picture I was going to take in Red Square was going to be in front of Saint Basil’s. Sadly, this picture is taken in front of a car park. It was still pretty cool being there though. |
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Making our way back through the GUM, we spot a nice cafe and I’m able to try my first taste of beef stroganoff. |
| We have the option of carrying on exploring through the afternoon.
This website is subtitled the adventures of an ordinary person, so I wont try to colour things up. I was bitterly disappointed and just wanted to be on my own in my hotel (I know some people will say I should have made more of the moment, but I was emotionally crushed and I just needed some space). A few of the other travellers jump on the Metro with me and while exiting the station, I get a photo of this statue in Partisanskaya. |
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Partisanskaya also has this rounded ceiling, which I had read about in my guide book.
Off back to my room, I write up some notes, text a few friends back home and listen to my Ipod. |
Adventure and a “proper” holiday in Istanbul (2/2).
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We visit the Grand Bazaar.To describe this as a market, is to do it a disservice. The sheer size of it, is awesome.
Its so big inside, that there really is no point in trying to navigate, getting lost is almost guaranteed. |
| One of the main walkways into the centre of the market.I remember watching a horror film some years ago. Post apocalypse, some people setup home in a large shopping centre, where everything they need is available.
If you were locked in, it would take you a lifetime, to eat, drink wear etc. just a small percentage of goods in here. I had been told that the shopkeepers could become annoying, although I never saw this. They were persistent, but always polite and obviously masters of the selling art. |
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There were many different sections of the Bazaar, and an entire section devoted to Jewellery .Sarah bought a bracelet here.
Once they knew she was interested and had the means to buy the bracelet, she was invited into the shop to haggle Haggling across the floor of the market, is considered poor form. |
| The famous Valens aqueduct built in the 4th century, which carried water from the Belgrade Forest.It was only replaced by a modern water distribution network, in early 1900. |  |
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The main entrance to the Topkapi Palace.One of the things that amuse me, is that the more I travel, the more I find original buildings, which were the names of restaurants in my home town. |
| Standing on one of the many spectacular balconies near the Baghdad Pavilion.The area has beautiful white and blue tile work, and was constructed in 1639 to celebrate the capture of Baghdad.
It was nice being in the shade, as the weather on that day was very hot even for Istanbul. |
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The gardens were beautiful to walk around.It was very relaxing to be immersed in an environment, like this. |
| The throne room.There were literally hundreds of buildings like this, located all over the palace.
It would be a feat to build the palace with modern mechanical assistance, let alone ordinary people carrying rocks by hand. |
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In a building which was originally the inner treasury, is a small museum of armaments.An 8 foot long sword would have been used European crusaders. I am not sure how people managed to fight with a sword that big !.
The armour is 15th Century Ottoman. |
| My favourite place in the whole Palace, was the balcony next to the Konyalti Restaurant overlooking the Bospherous.On such a beautiful day, it will be one of my main memories of the trip. |  |
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One morning we decided to go for a walk through the Gulhane park, in the centre of the city.The sound of birds, and the smell of plants and grass had an immediate effect on me, I don’t like to be away from the countryside for long. |
| The Church of Holy Wisdom aka Haghia Sophia.More than 1400 years old, it is among the worlds greatest architectural achievements.
If you have ever tried to construct an igloo, or some other kind of self supporting shelter (ok, I confess, I have) you will realize the complexity. Imagine trying to do that, with what was then the largest dome in existence, even today, the 4th largest religious dome in the world. To support such a large dome, the building has been buttressed on several sides, which gives it a “rounder” shape. |
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Originally inaugurated as a Church in 537, it was later converted into a Mosque by the Ottomans in the 15th century.Its for this reason, that the building contains artefacts from both the Christian and Muslim religions.
Naive of me perhaps, but I wonder if a holy place where both religions could pray side by side, might be the key to peace one day. Invading countries and blowing up subways, doesn’t seem to be achieving much. The centre off the building (the Nave) was designed to impart a celestial feel, and it certainly did that for me. |
| One of several walkways, leading to the upper floor.100 stonemasons, and 10,000 labourers, were required to complete it. |  |
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As the building has been used as both a Mosque and a Church, it features a Mihrab which points in the direction of Mecca. |
| A Christian structure, actually stood on this site from the 3rd century, but was destroyed, rebuilt and then destroyed again before becoming the Haghia Sophia.One of many beautiful Mosaics showing the Virgin Mary, Jesus, Emperor John II and Empress Irene. |  |
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We decided to spend our last day in Beyoglu, on the opposite side of the Golden Horn.We got a bit lost, but a friendly stranger, who spoke perfect English gave us directions, and showed us this hidden gem of a staircase near St. Mary Draperis Church.
We continued up the hill, navigating through back streets, and passed the British Embassy. |
| At the top of the hill in Beyoglu we reach the Galata tower which at 62 meter’s high, is visible from all over Istanbul.Built in 1348 it was originally used as a watch tower.
Its now a wine bar and nightclub with spectacular views of the whole of Istanbul the Bospherous. |
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We wandered along Istiklal Caddesi, Istanbul’s busiest street, where trams still run to this day.I discovered this Memorial but have been unable to find out its name or what its supposed to commemorate.
At a guess, 1923 is when Istanbul was declared a republic, and 1973 would have been its 50th anniversary, so I presume its to commemorate that. |
| The afternoon before we head home, we decided to go somewhere nice, and have a few drinks.The famous Pera Palace Hotel was built in 1892.
It featured in Murder on the Orient express, written by Agatha Christy. The room she stayed in is kept on show for guests to view, exactly as it was. Originally guests on the Orient express were transferred to the hotel, on chairs carried by waiters (its a long walk up hill, to get to it). |
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Adventure and a “proper” holiday in Istanbul (1/2).
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Sarah commented that “all our holidays seem to be more like projects than holidays”.
I concede, and we have a “proper” holiday in Istanbul. We stayed at the Legend hotel. Located in the Old Quarter it was about 100 meter’s from all the attractions. It had a superb rooftop bar with spectacular views of the Blue Mosque. |
| There were lots of smart things to see.
Some cultural sites, excellent food, and friendly people would make the difference between success and failure. The original walls that protected the area where the leaders of the Ottoman empire originally lived. |
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Sarah standing next to the wall of the Blue Mosque.
She is wearing a hat she purchased just for the trip. |
| The Blue Mosque considered the most famous sight in Istanbul.
It was an amazing building, and built by many of the people, who later constructed the Taj Mahal. |
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The Basilica Cistern located underneath the city.
The water in the Cistern travels 19km from the Belgrade woods, via aqueducts built by Emperor Jusitinianus. |
| The Cistern was used as a set in the James Bond film From Russia with Love.
In Istanbul all of the historic sites we visited were either free or very cheap, which was a refreshing change from some of the other countries we have been to. |
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The Cistern was originally built in the 6th Century.
For a century after they invaded, the Ottomans did not know of the Cistern’s existence. Many of the original residents were able to collect water and even “fish” from their homes by lowering buckets and fishing line from their floorboards into the water below. The fish in this picture, were nearly 2 feet long. |
| The Cistern is made up of 12 rows of 28 columns, with a raised wooden platform, that allows you to walk through them.
Some of the columns are made from re-used stone. Here the famous Medusa head on one of the columns. I have photographed it this way to make it easier to see, in reality its upside down. |
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The archaeological museum next to the Topkapi Palace.
I could have spent the whole day in there, and still not seen everything. |
| Some of the many original artefacts on the 3rd floor.
The statue on the left of this picture, is ancient, yet has a look of modern art to it. |
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The Golden Horn, is at a right angle to the Bospherous.
Its very similar to the creek in Dubai, and has been called the best natural port in the world. At night, the Ottomans, would block the Horn, using this chain, an amazingly practical way to render a waterway, effectively useless. |
| Me standing in front of a spectacular stone carving.
Unfortunately, I never wrote down the name of this piece, but almost everyone in the museum was photographed in front of it. |
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The Kadesh treaty.
The oldest known peace treaty in existence arranged between the Hittite’s and the Egyptians It was written in Akkadian the international language of the day. |
| We sat outside at the Green Corner Cafe.
Many of the stone artefacts were located outside in the garden and we were able to sit among them while we relaxed. |
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Every meal I ate in Istanbul was excellent.
The waiters always looked pleased to see us, and seemed to show genuine delight, when receiving a well deserved tip. This gargantuan steak, was one of the best I have ever eaten, and cost about £2. |
| The road leading down to the port at the Golden Horn.
The streets in Istanbul, were busy, but always friendly. |
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Fisherman at the riverside catch fish and sell them to local shopkeepers.
The shopkeepers then make them into fish kebabs, and sell them to the general public. Sarah decided to try one. She described the taste as distinctive (which for Sarah, means it was awful !). |
| We set off on a boat trip up the Bospherous
The ferry was packed and we were lucky to get a seat outside. The view was spectacular. The boat stopped off several times on both sides of the Bospherous. |
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We sail under the world famous Bospherous bridge.
Since Istanbul is a city which spans 2 continents, it is possible to walk from Asia to Europe, over this bridge. Started in 1970, its construction cost $200,000,000 and took 3 years. |
| Fortress of Europe.
Located on the narrowest point of the Bospherous was built in 1452 by Mehmet II (before his invasion of Constantinople, which would later become Istanbul). |
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At the most northerly port on the Bospherous (Rumeli Kavagi) the boat stops off for an hour.
This is the highest point that the ferry goes up the Bospherous. A few miles beyond, is the Black See. Sarah and I decided to make the most of it, and have a glass of wine. The view from the Restaurant balcony was quite excellent. |
Visit to the Russian Federation and 2 day in St Petersburg (2/2)
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In the evening, we head out towards the Ballet.
I bought a formal travel jacket a couple of years ago from Rohan, and I had always wanted a legitimate reason to wear it. Unfortunately, my bag was winding its way to our hotel, so I attended the Ballet in the decadent attire of a North Face polar tech fleece. As we arrive, I have my first (and only) drink of Vodka, a must do activity in Russia. |
| Swan Lake was really rather good.
Some of the other people on the trip, said that the performers weren’t as good as they could have been, but then they had been to the ballet before, and I hadn’t. I took a few pictures (without flash). An old hag (I would meet 4 on my trip and they all looked like sisters) punched me in the back and proceeded to lambaste me in a language I couldn’t understand. To be honest, I was sick and tired of being endlessly polite to people who treated me at best with indifference and at worst downright insulting or threatening. I told her to go away, and reading the expression on my face she did. |
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Ultimately, this is johnsunter.com
I was enjoying the ballet, but I know that the Swan dies in the end, and was a bit culturally overloaded. I decided to leave at the intermission and go for a pint in a nearby Irish bar. Shane an Australian lawyer living in London decided to join me. After a couple of pints, we headed back to the Theatre, just in time to see the closing credits. I later learned, that the dying swan, was a part created specifically for the prima Ballerina Anna Pavlova, who later trained many of the countries best dancers. |
| We went back to our hotel in the coach and a Sushi bar next to the hotel served us a couple of drinks and allowed us to round of our evening.
To be honest, I didn’t really enjoy this trip at all, and from this evening, I don’t come out with the group and join the festivities as I was pretty miserable and just didn’t want to bring the evening down. They were all nice people though, and Id like to thank them. Without their company, I think I would have gone home. The good news was that the bar sold the excellent Japanese Asahi beer which I had so enjoyed in Tokyo. |
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The following day there is a “proper” tour of all the major sights of St Petersburg, but this is an extra £75.
I decided I would just wander around with my guidebook. First problem was getting the underground. I don’t think anyone reading this will be surprised to hear Chester doesn’t have one and I’m not as used to this sort of thing, as people from say London. After asking the woman at the ticket office for help and being spoken to as though she had caught me breaking into her house, I photographed the section of the map, with the place I wanted to go and just held the camera screen up to the window. Turns out, its the same price wherever you want to go on the network, but I wasn’t to know. |
| It was raining as I set out around the city.
Nevesky Prospekt is the lifeblood of the city, and the first place I wanted to see. My first stop was the Cathedral of Our Lady of Kazan. 96 Corinthian columns arranged in four rows, were inspired by Bernini’s colonnade for St Peters in Rome. Occupied (ironically) during the Soviet era as the Museum of Atheism. |
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The Lutheran Church was set quite far back from the Road.
I really was glad that I had my guidebook I would have been left wandering aimlessly in the poring rain. Converted into a swimming pool during the Soviet era, it once again functions as a church. |
| Whilst preparing for the trip, one place I had read about and really wanted to see was the literary cafe.
Previously called the Wolf and Beranger, it was know for its fashionable clientele. It was from here that Pushkin left for his his fatal duel in 1837. The cafe was a popular haunt for St Petersburg writers and frequented by Fyodor Dostoevsky. |
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The entrance to the Palace of Stroganov, who lent his name to the dish Beef Stroganov (the eating of which, is another must do activity in Russia).
Stroganov Palace was built in 1753. The Stroganov’s amassed an enormous fortune, mainly due to their monopoly of Salt. Today it belongs to the Russian museum for temporary exhibitions. The Stroganov’s collection of antiquities were moved to the Hermitage. |
| The famous Bronze Horseman designed by Etienne Falconet shows Peter the Great with his horse trampling the serpent of treason and is said to capture the spirit of the city’s uncompromising and wilful founder.
The Statue is brought to life in Alexander Pushkin’s epic poem the Bronze Horseman, written 42 years after the statue was erected in December’ists square. It took 12 years to complete and newlyweds are frequently photographed in front of it (as they are, just about everywhere else in St Petersburg) as it is said to bring luck. |
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The Naval museum had previously been a stock exchange. |
| I wander around the Peter and Paul fortress.
Towards the front is this sand bank (apparently in summer it is filled with people sunbathing !). It was hard to imagine on this bleak day, but It was nice to be able to walk along a wide open space with nobody else around and look out across the water. On the left is the outer fortress wall. |
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The famous Neva gate on the bank, not surprisingly, off the Neva river.
Many political activists had been imprisoned at the fortress including Leon Trotsky. Sometimes they would be moved to the even more notorious Schlusselburg Fortress for execution, and its from this, that the gate earned the nickname death gate. |
| Cathedral of St Peter and Paul.
The Tsars family are all interred here. In the eyes of many Russians, the Romanov’s are Gods representative’s on earth. Before heading for Russia, I watched a program called Revealing the Romanov’s, that proved finally that the 2 missing children had actually died, and that their line was ended. A few other people on the trip had watched it, but our guide had never heard of it. The spire on the top of the Cathedral, is visible from all over St Petersburg, was the tallest structure in the City, until the 1960’s. It was about 3pm and I had about 8 hours to kill before I met up with the rest of the group and headed for the train to Moscow. I met up with 2 other people from the course by chance, and we wandered around some of the other sights. |
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The commandants house.
Many political prisoners were incarcerated, interrogated and imprisoned here over the decades (among them Leon Trotsky in 1905 and Fyodor Dostoevsky in 1849). |
| Peters cabin.
It took the Royal joiners just 3 days to build and Peter lived here for the following 6 years, while he oversaw the building of the Fortress. |
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At 9:40pm on 25 October 1917, the cruiser Aurora signalled the storming of the Winter Palace by firing a single blank round from its bow gun.
It was sunk during the Leningrad Siege to protect it from the Germans and then raised in 1944, 950 days later. It has been maintained as a museum since 1956. We weren’t able to go on ship, as a building next to it houses the Naval college and they were about to come aboard for some sort of Naval ceremony. |
| We wandered through the winter garden, which for some reason I had completely missed off my walking list.
It had originally been constructed by French gardeners in a Versailles style. After a flood, Catherine had it rebuilt in an English style to reflect her more sober tastes. |
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As we pass through the gates of the summer palace to leave, we get this view of The Russian museum.
Regretfully, with the cost and time constraints, I didn’t actually go into any of the museums aside from the Hermitage. Its a shame as the museum holds one of the largest collections of Russian art in the world. |
| The Cathedral on spilled blood (also known as the Resurrection Church of Our Savior) was built on the spot where, on the 1st of March 1881, Tsar Alexander II was Assassinated, and its from this that it takes its name.
It re-opened in 1998 after more than 20 years of restoration. The market on the right, across this bridge, sells the cheapest Matroyshka Dolls in the City. |
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As I wandered around to meet the rest of the group, I saw this building. I really love architecture like this, and there were dozens of buildings just like it.
Its still impossible to drink the tap water in Russia as it contains large amounts of metals. You can see in the lower section of the picture, that the road had been dug up, to replace them. |