Year: 2004

A visit to Borneo, beautiful islands, amazing culture and kadazan headhunters (1/3).

mebp I’d heard loads of cool things about Borneo.When my old mate JK told me he was organising a multi- activity trip there, I couldn’t resist going.
The flight was from Heathrow early in the morning.I stayed with my friend Kathrin in London (we previously worked together at Arthur Andersen).We went out for the evening and met up with Yuko, who I’d met in Egypt.In the morning, I rose early, with a sense of adventure and headed for the airport (a lot simpler process, than I had expected, I normally struggle with the underground).

The flight out was 12 hours. The selection of available films was limited. The good news was that the flight wasn’t full, so we stretched out in the empty seats.

JK and I enjoyed a game of Who wants to be a millionaire. We actually won 3 times (although we had to play nearly 1000 games to achieve this !).

Slightly annoying, was the confusion over my flight from Kuala Lumpur to Borneo. I ended up flying 2 hours later, on a different plane from the people in my group.

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street1 I’d arrived in Borneo, 3rd largest Island in the world.I got into my room, got a shower, had a 2 hour nap, and then went out exploring the town.I have always loved the Jungle.Left unfettered, it knows no boundaries and will literally take over everything. I saw this especially in the Angkor watt and even in city area’s of Bangkok.On one occasion, where hotel construction had been delayed, a primary Jungle had grown right next to a main road in just a few days.

Here in Kota Kinabalu, things were much the same. On the right of this picture, a small rainforest was constructing itself, complete with plants, insects and fish.

Here in the water, you can see a fish swimming about.I have no idea, how it could have gotten into a man made gutter, but its testimony to the shear magic and power of the Jungle. street2
nightout In the evening, there was the usual first night out which went on far too long (mainly my fault) and left many people tired and dehydrated the following day.That said, it was a holiday after all. A lot of the people hadn’t met before, but things went swingingly (but we didn’t do any swinging !).
As we broke into smaller groups and got to know each other, I got chatting to the excellent Steve.Steve is a great bloke, but very focused, and you can see from this expression, he wasn’t very pleased with the shot he had just taken. steve
pubsigns Some of the signs they had on the wall. Just go to show that Ale Houses around the world aren’t that different.
In the morning, I rise early (well, 9 o’clock) and head out to the “islands” that I had been hearing about.Along travelling with me were Dan, Richard (who I had met previously on a navigation course) and Jonny Crocket, the owner and director of Survival School. harb1
meboat We set of from the Sutera harbour resort hotel.Its a 5 star hotel, with its own port and Marina. On previous trips, the lads had stayed there, but this time we were going for basic cheap accommodation.It was felt the money was better spent on real adventure, and I had to agree.We suit up with our flotation jackets, and the boat puts to water.

It was pretty cool.

Initially, it “put-put’s” out to water, but once clear of the Marina, it flew across the bay.

We arrived at Mamutek Island.It was like something from a Malibu advert.The water around this small charter boat, shows just how clean the beaches are. boat
jetty We disembark, and head along the Jetty to pay our Island tax (I didn’t mind, it wasn’t much, and goes towards keeping the island clean, and more than worth it).
Looking out along the beach. Fantastic.The lads had decided to go for a swim and rent some snorkelling equipment.I arranged to meet them later, and went exploring the island. beach1
isljungle1
It wasn’t a very big Island. A path from a secluded part of the beach, led to a trail that cut right across the backbone of the island.The vegetation and plants were amazing and this was a nice introduction to the more serious jungle trekking I would do later in the trip. isljungle2
tent There is no permanent hotel on the Island, and a few people there, were doing a diving course, so had erected their own makeshift accommodation.It looked like a refugee camp, but the people staying there seemed pretty cheerful.
I had a quick “go” of the snorkel.There were some very bright coloured fish in there.This picture doesn’t really capture it, but it was a beautiful day. snorkling
sweeper As we leave I notice this man. His job is to literally sweep the beach and keep it tidy.Several times, I heard government sponsored radio advertisements encouraging people to keep their beaches clean.A slightly more laid back evening (again at the Irish bar) and then the next 2 days climbing Mount Kinabalu.
After an early night, to recover from Mount Kinabalu, I decide to spend the next couple of days finding out about the local culture.There are 30 identifiable ethnic and religious groups who live together in Borneo, in an environment of peace and relative prosperity.Throughout my trip, I found the people friendly and extremely helpful and wondered why, the Chinese were hosting the Olympics and not these fine people.I had heard of the famous Gaya street market, which is held every Sunday in the main high street, right near our hotel. market1
market2 The thing I really wanted to buy, was an authentic Parang (Malaysian Machete) which I had first seen, 20 years previously, in the SAS Survival Handbook, by John “Lofty” Wiseman.Unfortunately, technology had moved on, and all the machete’s in the market, were mass produced.I found a fairly authentic one in a nearby shop, which I would later take into the Jungle, whilst trekking the Salt Route.
Aside from Parang’s, the market, had literally everything you need or think of, and here a local politician holds a surgery at one of the stalls. pol

Four days in Budapest (2/2).

matthias_fountain Across the bridge, we took the Funicular to the top.

Honestly, it would have been quicker to walk, but we were here in search of adventure and exploration, and the only way to do this, is to try new things (however boring they might be 🙂

We reach the top of Castle hill (made of limestone, it rises 550 feet above the Danube). The old town around here is the heart of tourism within the city.

These statues outside Buda Castle are probably in the top 5 I have seen anywhere in the world.

The Royal Palace was completed in 1424. Today it houses the Hungarian National Gallery, the Budapest History Museum and the National Library.

When we arrived, there were TV camera’s everywhere, as this Crane had turned over. Thankfully, it didn’t look like anyone had been seriously hurt.

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pres_palace Just next to the Funicular is Sandor Palace.

It used to house the Prime minister, but today it is used for Presidential Offices (it was completely destroyed in the 2nd world war, and rebuilt afterwards).

We watched the rather camp changing of the guard.

I really liked the colour of the trees with the sun hitting them.

Basically, there is no significance to this picture, except that I like it.

castle_district
st_matthias_church Matthias church.

It was described in my guidebook (before the idiot French people lost it !) as 13th century church named after 15th century king.

Considering the area is so popular for tourism, sign posts were virtually non existent.

I simply couldn’t find the military museum (which is a shame, as apparently, they have a really good exhibit about the 1956 uprising).

There were lots of Trabant cars.

Agi had commented that her car was very difficult to drive, as it had a quirky gearbox.

I saw this Mark III Ford Cortina. Same model as used in Life on Mars, one of the best TV programs of the last 20 years. Reminded me of my friend Frank who appeared in Life on Mars.

cortina
fishermans_bastion Fisherman’s bastion. A truly enchanting place on castle hill.

Its seven towers represent the seven Magyar tribes that settled in the Carpathian Basin in 896.

The Bastion takes its name from the guild of Fishermen that were responsible for defending this stretch of the city walls in the Middle Ages. It is a viewing terrace, with many stairs and walking paths.

It was designed and built between 1895 and 1902 on the plans of Frigyes Schulek.

It was the third day of our trip, so we decided to stop for a while and have a couple of pints.

We found a really atmospheric underground bar nearby.

bud_underground_pub
hospital_it_rock God spoke to me, and commanded me to find the Hospital in the Rock.

Well, when I say god, I’m talking about the god of adventure travel, Simon Calder, in his 48 hours in … series.

The Hospital in the Rock opened its doors in February of 1944. It was built to treat 60 to 200 soldiers but they ended up treating around 600 soldiers and civilians.

Beds built for one were ultimately shared between three people, with the least injured in the middle.

Mid siege, and out of supplies, the kitchen were forced to use horse-meat to feed their staff and patients.

Used again during the 1956 Hungarian Revolution 8 children were born here.

It was upgraded and extended to a nuclear bunker in the early 60’s because of the Cold War.

Designated “Top Secret” in the early 1960s with the code name LOSK 0101/1, it retained its classified status until 2002.

With advances in nuclear weapons, specifically the neutron bomb, the bunker’s ability to withstand the anticipated Armageddon came under question.

A caretaker couple took over maintenance of the facility to keep things like  air circulation, heating and humidity control in working order.

The beds and other modern medical equipment were kept ready for use. It’s said the only time the X-ray machine was used, was by the janitor himself when he broke his finger.

Finally opened to the public in 2006, the present-day museum was opened in March of 2008.

hospital_it_rock2
hospital_it_rock3 Walking around on an hourly guided tour, the control room and associated machinery are still in operating condition. All of the first aid supplies and medical equipment are either stockpiled in rooms, or set out on tables, ready for use.

The complex has dummy’s demonstrating most of the hospitals functions.

In other circumstances, it would look theatrical, but with the humming of the generator, the cold air and stark lighting it feels like one of those star trek moments when everything is frozen in time.

Run by a private company, their charter from the government says they must move out completely within 24 hours in case of a national emergency.

It got dark rather early, so I was able to get this picture of the Chain Bridge at night. chainbridge_night
gellert_hill The following day (rather jaded from our whirlwind tour of Budapest) we head for Gellert hill.
I had seen the statue in several pictures, and the first thing that struck me, was how much smaller it was.

In the photo you can see, the pavement at the bottom and the top of the statues head, are less than 100m metres apart.

Gellert hill, takes its name from St Gerard who is credited with introducing Christianity to the area, by being thrown down a hill (well technically, he was rolled down the hill, in a barrel).

gellert_monument
me_gellert_hill It was obvious that Glenn’s boot camp training was working, as he easily left me, on the walk up Gellert hill (although I wondered if he would have beaten me so easily, over 25 miles of flatter ground).

I stopped to rest, and in the picture, have a sort of ET “sticky out head”.

We reach the top of the hill to find 2 interesting things.

1. Glenn looking pleased with himself.

Glenn can be contacted through his Pine and Teak businesses, so I’ll just deal with the Citadel.

2. The Citadel fortress, built by the Habsburg in 1851 following the suppression of the 48-49 uprising.

It contained 60 cannon, but was largely for show.

The Hapsburg empire has always been a bit of a mystery to me. I mean you just know what the Roman, Ottoman, Egyptian empires where like, but what about the Hapsburg’s.

My ex-wife Sarah gave me the best explanation some years ago. They are basically, like the people in Chitty Chitty Bang Bang (the kidnappers, not Dick Van Dyke et al).

Today the Citadel, remains as a tourist attraction (and if it is, its probably the most hideous I have seen while travelling).

citadel_wall
liberty_statue Nearby is the famous Liberation monument.

The statue was erected in 1947 after the second world war. The main figure is a woman, holding an olive branch, the symbol of peace in her hands. On both sides symbolic figures can be seen: the young man’s victory over the dragon represents the defeat of fascism.

Controversially, the inscription has been changed over time as it originally gave praise and thanks to the Soviets for liberating the country:

“Erected by the grateful Hungarian Nation in memory of the liberating Russian heroes”

It now reads:

“To the memory of all of those who sacrificed their lives for the independence, freedom, and success of Hungary “

The area around is popular with walkers as it has lots of trails and forests and stuff like that.

As we wander around the parks nearby, we walk down the hill and see the Gellert baths, part of the famous Gellert hotel complex.

gellert_baths
gellert_hotel Built in 1916, the Gellert hotel was built in Art Nouveau style, as you can see from the entrance, which faces the Danube.
We head over to the famous Church in the Rock.

“built” in 1926, its modelled on the cave at Lourdes and houses the Pauline monastery.

It was kept secret during the communist era. When we got there, it had electric doors and the inside looked like a boutique

Once again, you had to pay to see a religious building, which I frankly resent, and once inside, you couldn’t take any photos. A bit disappointed, we carry on.

gellert_chur_ot_rock
bud_liberty_brdg We wander back along the Liberty Bridge.

I don’t like to break with protocol, but I actually liked this bridge more than the Chain Bridge, which is considered a must-see.

Budapest has the largest Synagogue in Europe. It contains the Tree of Life Holocaust Memorial

Funded by the Emanuel Foundation (including Tony Curtis), in memory of the 600,000 Hungarian Jews who were murdered by the Nazis.

The tree, which is made of stainless steel and silver, is fashioned to look like a weeping willow.

Inscribed on its 4000 metal leaves are the names of Hungarian Holocaust victims.

bud_syn_hol_mm
fatal_rest As we walked along Vaci street we passed this restaurant.

Something must have been lost in the translation. The food looked tasty and healthy, yet the restaurant was called Fatal !.

Back to our hotel, we jump in a Taxi for the Airport. What do I think overall. I really loved this place, and I’ll definitely come back.

Four days in Budapest (1/2).

bud_intro Sat in my house. I receive a text: a taxi will arrive in a few minutes. get in it.Am I in a real life James Bond film ?. Where will I be taken ?. What will happen ?.

Nothing so drastic. After nearly a year of UK based adventures, I have arranged a budget long weekend in Budapest.

I am going with my friend Glenn and work commitments, mean he can’t pick me up directly, so he’s sent a cab on account.

I arrive in Mickel Trafford and we drive to the airport. The adventure has begun.

This photo was taken on Castle hill, overlooking the famous Chain bridge.

More excitement, as we arrive at the airport.Glenn has membership of a private lounge. We get a couple of “free” beers and a bacon butty.

Later we read the papers and have a go on this Scalextric (which was set up to entertain children, but we didn’t care).

glenracing
airport_landing So why Budapest ?.I’ve always been fascinated by Eastern Europe as I grew up during the cold war.

Several of my friends had recommended it, and since I hadn’t visited Hungary before, the decision was easy.

Its history is impressive. It has been controlled by empires of the Celts, Romans, Mongols, Ottomans, Austrians, Germans and Russian.

Pest and Buda were the furthest lying areas of the Ottoman and Austrian empires.

On the 17th November 1873 Buda, Obuda and Pest (for simplicity’s sake, Pest is the hill, and the 2 others are flat, on the other side) was unified and became one city.

This vibrant mix of cultures, is what makes Budapest so Cosmopolitan. Its easily the nicest Eastern European city that I’ve ever visited.

Were on a budget, so we stay in a backpacker hostel – the 7×24 Central Hostel. The building actually contains a dental surgery, which is listed as one of the hostels services, along with no lock-out and free internet.

We are met by our host Agi (who owns a Trebant) and given our complimentary drink of Palinka.

We are shown around the hostel, which was bright and spotlessly clean. The living room had a really big tv, comfy sofa and a kitchen for making hot chocolate (and other types of cooking as well, I suppose).

She speaks with enthusiasm in broken English. An accomplished traveller herself, she leads us to a map on the wall, and gives us a whistle stop tour of Budapest.

She raves about a bar around the corner called the Katapult. We decide to stay local since its our first evening and visit the amazing Trofea Grill.

All you can eat, normally puts me off, but the food was amazing, and you could drink as much bear and wine and eat as much steak and stuff like that as you liked, for a tenner.

bp_agi
me_bed A friend once told me, when your on holiday, let your body take the rest it needs from you. I slept really well each night, and occasionally, slept in.

On this particular occasion, Glenn didn’t sleep in, so was able to take this awful picture of me.

In the morning, we head out exploring (later in the trip, I lent my priceless DK Eyewitness guide to some French people, who lost it !).

We walk along the famous Andressy Utca (a world heritage site), with its fine buildings and town houses.

Glenn has been doing some research as well. I didn’t realise it, but the most popular souvenirs are maps.

Budapest has an international reputation for map making (back in the days when British cartography consisted of “here be wild beasts”).

glenn_wcarving
bank_knives  As well as being steeped in history, the city was very modern. Many of the people we passed in the morning were dressed in business attire.

I have no idea what this bank advertisement is saying, but with the flying knives, it captured my experience dealing with and visiting banks exactly.

 At the top of Andressy Utca, is heroes’ square and the Millennium Monument with statues of the 7 tribes that founded Hungary in the 9th century.

The monument was constructed to celebrate Hungary’s the 1000’th anniversary in 1896, but wasn’t completed until 1900.

The square is complimented by the Museum of Fine Arts on its left and the Hall of Art on the right.

The Serbian embassy is next to the square on Andrassy utca, and its here that Imre Nagy secured sanctuary in 1956.

On the 16th of June 1989 a quarter of a million people, gathered for Nagy’s reburial (he was executed by the Soviets in June 1958).

During the soviet occupation of Hungary, the Monument was completely covered by red textile and a statue of Marx, a worker and a peasant replaced many of the historic national heroes statues which were removed.

freedom_square
vajdahunyad_castle  Vajdahunyad Castle in city park was built between 1896 and 1908. Copied from a Transylvanian castle, it incorporates Romanic, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque styles.

I was surprised to find it was originally made of cardboard and wood from the thousand year celebrations, and proved so popular that it was rebuilt from stone and brick.

As we wander further around, I realise that the moat was empty. A bit disappointing.

In the castle courtyard, one of the most famous statues in Hungary, Anonymous. Reckoned to be a 12th century chronicler, he wrote the first history books (made up mostly of superstition and legend)’

Touching his pen is supposed to be lucky. It was so popular that there was a queue to photograph it.

statue_of_anonymous
vid_conf Just outside Vidam park, we find this sort of rock bar (well it had posters of famous rock bands, I just wasn’t sure if any of them had ever played there).

Glenn comments that its time for a drink. I start to wonder what sort of trip this will turn out to be !.

He has coke, and I have coffee.

An impromptu “meeting” with this business partner Rob using apple’s facetime and the bars wireless network, demonstrates just how cool technology can be.

“When I am drinking wine” wrote Petofi Sandor, Hungary’s national poet “I am happy and I don’t care who is in power”

The House of Terror museum, showed that not everyone felt the same way.

It chronicled the atrocities committed against the Hungarian people by the Nazis and the Communists.

The building had been used as an interrogation centre for the AVH secret police.

I walked through a bright room showing Communist propaganda, and then the room next to it, that showed the reality. Poorly designed tin openers and radios that don’t work.

There was some stuff about the 56 uprising including a video of the show trail of Imre Nagy.

Most harrowing was a a slow lift journey, with a video interview explaining the daily hangings.

terror_museum
tank A T34 tank of the kind used by the Russians to quell the 56 uprising, was located in the foyer of the museum.

The pictures behind the tank, show just some of the victims of communist attrition. One very meaningful exhibit said:

“Communism turned almost everyone and everything against itself. To tell a joke., to show too little enthusiasm, or give money to families of “social outcasts” or even just to nod at them. Anyone, who did not applaud loud enough, came under suspicion.

The brave ones, who defied the atrocious terror regime, were wiped out and buried in unmarked graves, because even in death they represented a threat.

The oppressive system did everything in its power to eradicate event their memories. Those, who risked their lives for the freedom of their country, were branded spies and traitors.

We do not know the names of many of them, and old lies still keep circulating about some of them. Yet they were true heroes”.

The last soviet advisor’s left Hungary in 1989.

I had a fairly focused idea of things to see and we blasted through the city on our pre-planned agenda.

I had to remind myself though, that the 3 days we were away, were the only holiday I would have that year, and to take time to enjoy it, rather than just see it as an expedition.

We passed by a railway station, and for no particular reason, decided to go inside and look around.

Nyugati railway station. Trains run from here to the airport 3 times an hour for £1.

bud_railway_stat
bud_parliament The Hungarian parliament building (its sited on the banks of the Danube, but you can’t see from this photo).

Modelled on the houses of parliament in the UK, it is the biggest parliament in Europe, and the largest building in Hungary.

The architect, Imre Standle went blind before its completion.

Mátyás Szűrös declared the Hungarian Republic from the balcony facing Kossuth Lajos tér on 23rd October 1989.

It was the anniversary of the uprising while we were there.

I’d read previously about the 1956 uprising. A spontaneous, nationwide revolt against the Stalinist government and the courage and ingenuity of the Hungarians.

The uprising took place between the 23rd of October and the 10th of November. Its was the anniversary, while we were there, and this tribute had been put up outside the parliament building with cards and flowers from people who had lost loved ones in the fighting.

The flag with the hole in the middle (hammer and sickle cut out) became a symbol of the revolution.

The new government formally disbanded the ÁVH, declared its intention to withdraw from the Warsaw Pact and pledged to re-establish free elections. By the end of October, fighting had almost stopped and a sense of normality began to return.

After announcing a willingness to negotiate a withdrawal of Soviet forces, the Politburo changed its mind and moved to crush the revolution.

1956_memorial
imre_nagy On 4 November, a large Soviet force invaded Budapest and other regions of the country.

Hungarian resistance continued until 10 November. Over 2,500 Hungarians and 700 Soviet troops were killed in the conflict, and 200,000 Hungarians fled as refugees. Mass arrests and denunciations continued for months thereafter. By January 1957, the new Soviet-installed government had suppressed all public opposition. These Soviet actions alienated many Western Marxists, yet strengthened Soviet control over Central Europe.

Public discussion about this revolution was suppressed in Hungary for over 30 years. October the 23rd is a national holiday.

As I wandered along, I found this statue of Imre Nagy. I learned that the revolt had originally begun as a student uprising.

Later that day in the hostel, I would see live footage of the Milbank protest in London. The irony disgusted me.

Security around the US embassy was understandably tight so I had to use this stock photo I found on the web.

On November 4, 1956, Cardinal Mindszenty walked up to the Chancery door. His Monsignor interpreter, they asked to come into the U.S. Embassy.

The low ranking corporal wasn’t sure what to do, but since he had the keys, he let the cardinal into the embassy where he stayed in internal exile for the next 15 years !.

The Cardinal used what is now the Ambassador’s office as his salon or sitting room, and he slept in the other, smaller room to the side.

The police outside the Chancery were ever watchful should he try to escape, and they ran their engines day and night, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, just in case.

The memorial plaque reads: “The Government of the United States of America gave shelter to Cardinal Joseph Mindszenty in this building between November 4, 1956 – September 28, 1971”

Budapest_U_S__embassy
sov_monument Budapest previously had dozens of Soviet monuments and memorials.

After independence, the Russian government were informed that they would all be removed except one and let the Russians decide which.

This one remains, directly facing the US embassy.

After a busy day exploring, we head back to the hostel, and get cleaned up.

I’m not particularly patriotic (although I am proud to be british and come from Manchester). Like many people abroad, I suddenly become more British, Irish, American etc when I’m in another country.

It was the City/United Derby that evening and we decided to go an watch the match.

The sports bar we found was a bit expensive (£3 rather than the usual £1.10 per pint) but was very quiet and enabled us to watch the match in peace.

A bit disappointing since neither side scored and the game was rather uneventful.

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stephens_basilica2 As we walk back, I get this night shot of St Stephens Basilica.

In the evening, I found the area friendly and following normal/sensible security precautions, didn’t have any problems with theft, pickpockets at all.

The following morning I am not photographed sleeping, we get up, get some breakfast and head for Castle hill.

Although the City was beautiful, we still found homeless people living in the doorways of these arches, just a few yards from a 5 star hotel.

walkway
from_rvelt_square This picture shows St Stephens Basilica in the daylight.

The Basilica, like the Parliament building, is 96m high, they are jointly the 2 tallest buildings in Budapest.

This is to symbolise that worldly and spiritual thinking have equal importance and present building regulations make the building of taller buildings within the city an offence.

Roosevelt square (it had previously been called Unloading square !).

It had some of the most beautiful architecture (and worst traffic) in the whole city.

The 4 season Gresham hotel, is voted 17th in the top 100 hotels in the world (and is only 2nd in Europe).

For fun, we looked at spending the night there. We couldn’t find anything under £600 per night !.

gresham_palace
bud_chain_brdg Opposite the Gresham hotel is the Chain bridge, the first built over the Danube.

When first constructed it was rated as a wonder of the world and had positive economic and commercial implications for the entire country.

It was designed by William Tierney Clark. A larger versions of Clark’s Marlow Bridge, built across the River Thames in the UK, not surprisingly, in Marlow.

Visit to the famous Amster Damm (where it gets its name). No weed, and a sickeningly authentic steak house.

street Back in the days before Liverpool Airport was done up. (ie, When you could get a cheap pint before your flight, and something non-pretentious to eat !) I set off, with Easyjet, to visit Amsterdam.I’d visited Amsterdam for an afternoon while interailing some years before, but never “overnighted” there.I had heard lots of things about Amsterdam ( The usual “bike shed” conversations about prostitution and the “how hard am I” nonsense about weed) mostly that it was very modern and laid back.
I visited the famous port, where Amsterdam gets its name.There was a really interesting ship museum.I really loved wandering around, and all the people I met were friendly. port
pub I found details of an historic Pub Crawl.It visited 10 famous old pubs all over Amsterdam, so provided a good frameworkfor a tour of the city.This was a famous pub called the Apothokarie. In times past, the local Dr, would set up practice in an Ale house.

The reasoning being that people would come to the pub, straight after work, and that they could gain healthcare as well as Ale from one source !.

I saw all of the usual sights, including the famous skinny bridge.Built by 2 sisters, who lived on different sides of the River, it enabled them to visit each other. bridge
steak I used to wear my hair short then, Lionel from the White Lion, used to cut it with clippers.Before going home, I visited a steak house, recommended in the rough guide.On the backs of the benches, were the hides of the animals which were being eaten, which created a slightly uneasy feeling.Went home the next day, will definitely go again.