Month: August 2016

Malta & Gozo 1.

intro

We quite like to go away at Christmas, and this time we decided to visit Malta and Gozo.

Above I’m pictured in front of the Azure window as featured in Game of Thrones.

julie

A few (quite a few) years ago, me and my friends decided to go on holiday together.

Opinion was divided amongst the group. Some of us wanted a “summer holiday”, others wanted to visit the Alps (you can probably guess which camp I was in).

As it was Julie, Mac and Caz went to Malta and had a really good time, while Lee and I went to the Alps and went Interailing around Europe.

I remember hearing all about Malta and always wondered what it was like. Now I was going to find out.

rain_breakfast

We’d be spending 8 days over Christmas touring the Island with short stop off’s and 2 night breaks.

We fly into Malta international airport. The only airport in fact, since the Island is actually 16 miles long.

We get a taxi to our first destination Marsaxlokk, A traditional fishing village with 3.5 thousand inhabitants.

It was late in the evening, so we found somewhere local for dinner then had drinks in a few bars before retiring to bed.

In the morning, our hotel had a rooftop bar where we had breakfast (which luckily had a roof, as the weather was terrible).

bus

So, not a perfect start to our trip, but as usual we’ve got a contingency.

Travelling via the capital Valletta we head for a fortified medieval city called Mdina.

We used the bus service extensively throughout out trip and found it to be very comfortable and reliable.

medina_walls

And Mdina certainly was fortified, it had the massive walls all around it.

medina_guns

It was an interesting place to visit and an ideal “rain” destination.

Which was good, as the rain was getting worse.

medina_bar

Inside the walls, a small bar where we shelter from the rain.

Very atmospheric and the wine and beer were really nice. We spent about 2 hours in here, as we’d seen everything by now and it was tipping down outside.

medina_alley

We wander back through the alleyways and head home.

lanostrapadrona

Back at Marsaxlokk to get cleaned up, then were out for the evening.

La Nostra Padrona is recommended by our hotel and my steak was delicious.

One thing to note about Malta, is that most meals come with a sort of pre-starter, and if you dont know this and your hungry, you order a pretty big starter and then can’t finish your main.

boatocean

In the morning we go out for a walk before breakfast, and the weather has changed completely.

Marsaxlokk is known for its special kind of boats which are painted in local colours and a bit “boxy”.

We wander further to see the Parish church before heading back for our breakfast.

With a walking trip planned later that morning I eat plenty as I’ll need the calories.

fvwalk1

We wander along the coast then head inland along a farm track.

fvwalk3

Short while afterwards, we cross the island and wander along a coastal path.

fvwalk4

And then we reach St Peter’s Pool.

A lovely quiet cove where we enjoyed the sunshine and had a swim.

There seemed to be a sort of abandoned hotel here.

Its a shame, as it would have made a superb destination for weekend breaks (and would have allowed us to buy some cold drinks).

waterside

With cold drinks on our mind, we wander back to the village and relax by the ocean.The waterside cafe in Marsaxlokk.

gozoferry

With our 2 days complete, were off to our next destination Xlendi, on Malta’s sister Island, Gozo.

Gozo can only be reached by ferry, so we get another bus to Cirkewwa.

The journey is quite short (30 mins).

We got some drinks and while Nikki looked out at the Mediterranean ocean, I wandered around the shop (they had an extensive selection of English books and magazines).

map

Between Malta and Gozo is an Island called Camino which features a beautiful swimming spot called the Blue Lagoon.

I’d wanted to see it, but its only 500m across and only has 1 hotel which was closed. With no resources on the Island, the ferry’s weren’t sailing there.

gozobalcony2

We get a tax to Xlendi and check into the Hotel San Andrea.

The view of the bay from our balcony window is one of my favourite memories of the trip.

Since its late afternoon, we wander around the town and explore (I find a nice pub and Nikki a respectable Italian restaurant).

zafiro

In the evening, we out out at Zafiro and I try the local Risotto.

gozowalk1_2

We’ve earmarked two incredible coastal walks while on Gozo, so the next morning its an early breakfast and out.

The road’s out of town have these amazing countryside valleys in between them.

gozowalk1_3

We head up a farm track and I pause for this picture.

A discussion about whether a path is privately owned, puts us off balance.

After another discussion and reviewing the “picture” which the tourist board describes as a map, we find an alternative route and were re back on track.

gozowalk1_4

We stop at this pool which has all sorts of wildlife and birds.

It’s also a nice spot to stop for some rest and a drink.

gozowalk1_5

We reach the Dwejra bay and are rewarded with these amazing pictures.

The Fungus rock above is home to many unique plants and animals and although people dive and fish around here, they aren’t allowed on the rock.

It takes its name from the Fungus Cynomorium coccineum which the Knights discovered had medicinal properties.

gozowalk1_6

Continuing along the sandy coastal path.

Five different species of Gekko live here, of which 2 are unique in the entire world.

gozowalk1_7

There are many forts on the coast. Dwejfra fort was built in the 1700’s and later used by the coastguard.

Its been restored to superb condition and had a museum inside with a historical video.

You could also go onto the top battlement.

Anther half mile and we reach the thing we really wanted to see. The Azure window.

mearch1

That’s me standing on top of it, to give some idea of its size.

Its not recommended to stand on top, but it was a once in a lifetime thing. Nikki took this picture from the cost.

mearch2

This is a close up off me.

As you can see, there are cracks forming in the rock. Although I felt safe, if I’d walked 3 feet forward I would have been in the water !.

sangorge

There were some souvenir shops, but we got the bus to the capital of Gozo, Victoria and did some sight seeing.

At one point, we were in a bar, and someone who worked there, and bought an Angel to go on top of his tree.

He had dropped it, and it didn’t light up. I used my headtorch for additional lighting and with my penknife started fixing it.

And after all the buildup, I coulnt fix it. Instead, we gave him a tip of the price of the Angel so all was well.

Some nice Tappa’s for dinner, and then bus back to Xlendi.

gozowalk2_1

A different route this morning, heading out of the bay.

Looking back, we could see our hotel.

gozowalk2_2

Starting off at a lower level, it follows the coast.

gozowalk2_3

After a while, it heads inland across rough tracks, and we see some people out on mountain bikes.

gozowalk2_5

The walk PDF’s we got off the internet were enthusiastically written, but not recently researched.

The walk along the cliff edge (yes, its about 4 feet away from a 350 foot drop) come to an end as someone has built a wall.

We circumnavigate and rejoin the path.

gozowalk2_6

Back next to the ocean, the surroundings have changed once again.

We continue, heading for the port town of Mgarr.

old_fort

Just outside town we arrive at Fort Chambray.

This place was amazing, an old fort on the outside, had been converted into modern flats and apartments on the inside.

I would have loved to live there.

gozoview

Just before we reach Mgarr harbour, we get this view of Camino island.

Malta & Gozo 2.

qwarahot

With Christmas day around the corner its time to move again, this time to a more central town (so we’ll actually be able to get something to eat on Christmas day and everywhere wont be shut).

Time now for a bit of luxury, we stay at the Seashells resort in Qawra near St John’s bay.

qwaraview

It’s Christmas eve, so we wander into the main town to explore.

Just after lunchtime on Christmas eve, I’m disappointed at the number of drunken “balloons” around so we head back to the peace and quiet of our hotel.

We sit by the Ocean and have some nice drinks. I cant remember a Christmas eve lunchtime like this before.

nikkichristmas

We’ve not booked anywhere for Christmas eve dinner and I’m starting to get concerned. No matter we’ll sort something out.

Our first stop, is the hotel itself, as a reception is being held for all guests by the hotel management. We popped in and joined them for a drink (they were really nice, and it wasn’t the “sales promotion” kind of thing I’d expected.

wdpub

As we head around the hotel, we find a quiet bar called the Blue Dolphin (so quiet, that Nikki and I were the only guests).

I’m not religious, but Christmas is always a special time for me and I’m having a nice time.

But what are we going to do about dinner (my contingency plan of the breakfast bars I have in my rucsack just wont fly with Nikki 🙂

wdrest

We ask the bar if they can recommend anywhere and they have an attached restaurant.

Result, the food is lovely and the wine selection extensive.

When we first sit down its pretty quiet, but a few minutes later, several family’s arrive. One group is so big it fills the entire table in the centre of the room.

xmaseve

With food eaten, toasts given, hands shaken and Happy Christmas said to everyone, we head home.

We decide to have a list drink in a bar nearby. The end of Christmas eve, was a special time.

qwalk3

It being Christmas day, what can we do but head out walking.

A bus takes us too Ghadira and we walk a road up to Slugs bay.

From here, we follow a track along the coast with views like the one above.

There were loads of recreational boats moored here,  and I presume people come here at weekends to go sailing and boating.

qwalk2

One of the beaches has a public bathroom.

I loved this sign, that says please don’t wash your feet !.

qwalk4

We wander passed Ramla bay resort.

I’m not a “summer holiday” type, but this place looked like it had everything.

Only thing was, it appeared derelict and closed down. Since returning home, I’ve realised its still open, it does a full shutdown at certain times of the year. I really liked it and I’m going to go back there.

qwalk5

It even has a diving school, and this map shows a number of wrecks nearby that you can dive too.

qwalk6

Continuing, we cross a rocky outcrop.

There’s an enormous cave (so big that some people are camping in there and as we pass are rock climbing inside the cave with ropes.

armybase

A place a found really exciting was an abandoned army base, used during the 2nd world war and finally closed in 1967.

I reminded me a lot of the sort of thing you used to see on the xFiles, but Nikki didn’t really enjoy it as much as me.

redfort

Near the end of our walk, and we arrive at St Agatha’s tower built in 1649 and instantly recognizable by its red colour.

der1

Nearby is a nature reserve with lots of birds.

I find these abandoned buildings (I quite like abandoned buildings).

It looked like it used to be either a hotel or a very wealthy persons house.

der2

Whatever it was, it was derelict now, but the vandals had at least painted nice murals all over it.

We wander back to the bus stop and while waiting had a drink at the Maxima bar.

Relaxing the rest of the day and evening, we set of the next morning for our final destination, the capital of Malta, Valletta.

hotroom

We stay in hotel Fortina which is really nice.

They’ve mad a mistake and we dont have a sea view.

To compensate were given us a massive room. We found out when we went for breakfast that several hundred people are staying at the same hotel and they are all British, at least 60 and wearing sportswear from a different era :).

map

The capital is a funny sort of place, as its made up a of a few different peninsula’s. As were staying on Sliema, we have to get a ferry (or walk a long way) to get to Valletta, Paola or Birgu.

valley

Stepping off the ferry, we walk up this steps to reach the main street of Valletta.

vstreet

Its a vibrant thriving place so we immediately start exploring.

republic_square

The South-east side of Republic square.

A library today, it was originally used to store records and contracts used by the Knights of Saint John.

gmp_entrance

The Knights of Saint John, occupied and ruled Malta.

There symbol, the Maltese cross is today used by the St John’s Ambulance society.

The 8 points on the cross represent the 8 languages spoken by the Knights (they were a multinational organisation) and the 8 rules/principles they were bound by.

Above is the Grandmasters palace of the order of St John.

gmp_red

Inside, the usual red carpet room thing.

gmp_ceiling

And this corridor with amazing art work on the ceiling.

They had an extensive armoury which I found fascinating, and Nikki found rather dull.

steak

We discovered one really cool thing about this Medieval town.

We had drinks in a place called Malata bar across from the Grandmasters palace.

A street along was City lounge where we’d decided to have dinner. I mentioned this to the barman, who showed us a “secret passage” at the back of the bar.

Down some dark steps and were actually in the main restaurant of the City lounge !.

And after such “Indiana Jones” excitement, what else but a lovely piece of steak, with Cafe de Paris sauce.

stjohncath

St John’s Cathedral.

They were doing restoration work, its always disappointing when a facade is put up, but I suppose its necessary.

warrooms3

We visited the Lascaris war rooms, deep underground.

Malta had played a significant role during the war, as it was strategically placed once the African front opened up.

It was frequently bombed from Italy.

warroom2

Radar was used to track flights from Italy, so they knew when to be ready.

Worst of all, was when a British war ship HMS Havock was docked in the Grand harbour for repairs.

The enemy were determined to sink it in harbour and Spitfires were scrambled from Malta several times each day.

warrooms4

The Island itself suffered heavy casualties but life still went on.

Our guide in the war rooms said simply, we are Roman catholic on this Island, we produce people the way other society’s produce potatoes.

Hardly politically correct, but I think it reflected the personality of the people there, who I’d grown to love.

thepub

Another “historical” event that took place in Valletta, Malta was at this pub (which is simply called “The Pub”).

It’s here that Oliver Reed passed away after a night of heavy drinking (while making Gladiator, the producers had to use some animated material to complete the film).

It was loud and brash and not somewhere I’d want to go. So exactly the kind of place Oliver Reed would like 🙂

d_office_bistro

Instead, we had a few drinks in D Office Bistro, a much more calm and relaxing environment.

Its such a nice evening, that instead of getting the boat back, we decide to walk.

vfountain

Next morning we head back to Valletta.

The arches and fountain of upper Barakka gardens.

vview

From the battlements nearby, we can see across to the Forti Sant Anglu in the centre of the Grand Harbour.

fsa

We travel over and visit the fort. After several hours, we leave and have a drink at Cargo bar and dine.

boatmuseum

We have a look around Malta Maritime museum (obviously ships and boating are important if you live on an Island).

It’s located in a former Naval bakery. They are hosting a wedding there that evening, so there are flowers everywhere.

On one floor, they have constructed an entire engine room from a frigate sent for scrap.

nightboat

Afterwards, we “charter” a small boat back to Valletta.

He asks for 5 Euro’s but we give him 10.

Lovely and peaceful sailing back to port with all the ships lit up.

bigboat

We wander up onto the battlements, so I can get a better look at this ship (one of many massive boats in the harbour, but the one I liked the most).

An enormous thing with swimming pool and helicopter landing pad.

As I passed it, I did a wifi scan. They had crew_recreation_ 1 & 2 which gives some idea of how elaborate things must be on that boat.

bell

Near the lower Barakka gardens, the Siege Bell memorial.

A final memory of the trip, its time to head back to the hotel, as were flying home in the morning.

I love this place.

My thoughts go back to all those years ago. I’m glad I went to the Alps but part of me wishes I’d come here as well.

Long weekend in Basel.

train

Our trip to the Black Forest complete, we’d arranged to spend the last 2 days of our holiday in Basel.

inside_station

Inside the train station, there are lots of murals of Alpine scenes from the turn of the century.

arch

As we wandered towards our hotel, we got to see some of the modern architecture there.

We’d originally flown into Basel at the start of our trip and I was fascinated by what I’d read.

Basel is a Swiss city, that is located at the tri-point of Switzerland, France and Germany.

This means that some of its suburbs are actually in different countries. Its to do a “pub crawl” across 3 countries in 2 hours 🙂

hotel_frombridge

We arrive at our hotel, the EastWest riverside.

hotel_acrossriver

Sitting on the patio outside with a drink, we had this amazing view across the Rhine river and the Mittler Brucke bridge.

hotel_room

The hotel was ultra modern.

The tv in our room could show films streamed from a mobile phone (each room had its own independent WiFi network).

I was lying back on my bad when I took this photo of the tv, so you can see my toes.

hotel_roomview

To save a bit of money, we opted for a room at the back of the hotel rather than one facing the river.

There was a nice street with a few bars on it. At one point in the night there was some shouting, but I just closed the window.

od_scene1

After a quick bite to eat in the hotel we head out to see the sights.

First off, is Basel Minster.

od_scene2

On the other side of the square, a few old buildings in a beautiful square.

dinner

After more exploring and wandering around, we go out for dinner.

This restaurant was expensive (but what in Switzerland wasn’t) but the food and wine were some of the best I’ve drank and tasted anywhere in the world.

You cant see from this picture but its right next to a really nice park.

river_evening

Alas, we’d been away for 10 days so were quite jaded.

After a drink or 2 we just sat by the river and relaxed before heading back to the hotel.

tram

Next day, we headed into the centre of the town.

The bright trams contrast the old buildings in the main square.

sur

In the main street, was this surreal scene.

A crane had been positioned in the middle of the walkway, so they had mounted it on a sort of arch, so you could walk under it.

red1

The Rathaus (Town hall in Basel) 500 years old, in the Market square.

red2

Inside the Rathaus is this small forecourt.

small_square

Wandering around the back streets, considering its a major international city, were these nice houses.

tinguely_water_sculpture

Constructed in 1977, by Jean Tinguely, the water sculpture.

Made up of 9 “machines” that rotate, spray water and various other things.

The installation is on the site of the old theatre, and the machines are meant to emulate the actors who had worked there.

waterfront

Having sold one of my kidneys to pay for dinner, we plan an interesting project for the following day and then retire to bed.

Up early, and we have breakfast. We can see the other bank across the river.

river

Wandering across the Mittlere bridge we get a view up the Rhine.

riverside

On the other bank, we set of walking.

We are overtaken, but some people who have taken a break from work and gone out for a jog.

roche_building

The runners are from Roche pharmaceuticals and we can see their main building back across the river.

oldwall

Further along, we leave the bank and head inland.

Basel wall, first constructed in 1080.

bridge

As we reach Wetstein Brucke.

Someone has helpfully put a sign saying that dogs shouldn’t walk down the stairs.

We continue on to Schwarzwald Brucke and cross the bridge back to our original side and walk back along the river bank towards our hotel.

robot

On our original side of the river, we wander next to the Roche building.

I was really impressed that they had about 20 of these robot lawn mowers.

lunch

Were due to fly home that evening, so we find a really nice Tapas restaurant and relax for the afternoon.

bill

Again, excellent food and wine, we were in there for two and a half hours and the bill was £140. We were used to it by now.

bus

We get the bus from the train station which takes is to the airport.

art

At the airport we relax and wait for our flight.

There is another sculpture by Jean Tinguely. Called the Luminator, its a motorised thing and when you press a button, this enormous machine bursts into life.

The complexity’s of the sculpture, remind me of the complexity’s of normal life. The life I’m about to return to now that my holiday’s over. A fitting end to an amazing adventure.