Category: Central Asia

Tour of India and Nepal – Varanasi.

31st March 200431st March 2016 admin Varanasi Leave a comment

	We arrive in the city of Varanasi, the Holiest of India’s City’s and one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. The Munshi Ghat, my personal favourite.
We arrive in the late afternoon. Relax around the hotel, and in the evening, visit the Hotels superb restaurant.
	Early the next morning, we set out towards the Ganges, to see the City awaken.
The Ganges is sacred to Hindu’s, who refer to it as the holly river. We look out across the river and watch the sun rise. Some of the boats, were already out on the water.
	We walk down the steps to our waiting boat. Thousands of people visit the waterfront steps (known as Ghats) to begin the day.
As the sun comes up, we travel along the waterfront, and visit the various Ghats. Despite the early hour, their was a “carnival” atmosphere to the morning, as many dozens of boats converged on the water.
	Sitting in our boat, in the early morning, it was very relaxing. Several people in small boats, paddled up beside us, and tried to sell us floating candles. The idea, is that you light a candle, for someone who has passed away. One of my friends lit one. I have decided not to show that picture, out of respect.
Some of the colours, when the sun hits the Ghats were impressive.
	Hindu’s consider it auspicious to die in Varanasi and many travel here for that purpose. There is a ritual when people die, performed by their eldest sun. Their body is burned on a ceremonial fire, and their remains are thrown into the Holy river. This is a picture of one of the burning Ghats. Afterwards, there ashes are placed in the Holy River.
Rana Ghat where people wake early and perform ritual ablutions in the Holy River.
	A view down the length of the river showing more people washing, who have waded out further into the water.
The Kedar Ghat, where clothes are washed, and then laid on the steps to dry. One of the most beautiful mornings I can remember.
	We drove around, on a guided tour, and visited the Campus of Banaras University, the largest in India. After this, we paid a visit to the Bharat Matar, or Mother India. Inside is a large scale map of India on the floor. As it was a beautiful day, I decided to stay outside in the sunshine, and asked the lads to take my camera, go inside, and take a picture for me. This is the picture that they took, not exactly what I had in mind.
This is the actual Bharat Matar. Its most impressive, and I am disappointed now, that I didn’t go inside after all.
	As we walk around back through the City in daylight, you can see just how busy and vibrant, it is. Many serious travelers that I have spoken too, have told me India is there favourite country, and I could certainly see why.
We decide to head further afield and see a bit more of the City. Our excellent guide Indira, arranges some motorized rickshaws, and off we go. In the picture, you can see the driver smiling. One of the things that struck me about India. People have an order of magnitude less, than your average person in the UK, and yet they are still happy. I wonder if some of the “hard done too” people I know, would benefit from living in India for a year !.
	For lunch, we visit the bread of life bakery on Shivala Road. Its well known, for offering pensions, healthcare and education to its employees and their family’s. They also contribute significantly to the families of Motorized Rickshaw drivers who have been killed in road accidents. It was nice to visit somewhere nice for lunch, and contribute to charity at the same time.
There were plenty of backpackers in there, the place is popular, and practically famous. I think a lot of people had visited it, to eat some pastries, that remind them of “home”, because it can be quite hard to get proper “pastry”. Unfortunately, the power had failed, and the over, had broken, so our food options were limited.
	As we left the bread of life, Kevin and I travelled together in the Motorized Rikshaw. I was delighted to see, that I wasn’t the only person that find this kind of transport terrifying. I took this picture to try and capture the feel of tearing through the streets in one of these things.
As the Rickshaw stops at the lights (an occurrence that seemed to be rare) I saw this young girl doing her homework as she looked after her fathers workshop.
	Just before dusk, we pass the river, and all the boats are empty. The river that was furiously busy earlier in the day, is now serene and quiet. I realized that this must happen every day, and it reminded me, of the circle of life (I do a lot of thinking, when I am travelling).
We visit a factory, and learn how silk is made. Obviously, there was an attached shop, and we had the “opportunity” to buy. Cynicism aside, the stuff in the shop, was superb and the prices far cheaper than we would have paid in the UK. The loom in this picture, is 80 years old.
	As we head out in the early evening, we travel in “Noddy” cars like this. When I came to open the door, you could feel the click of the mechanism was smooth and secure, these vehicles are very well built.
Our driver, like most of the people we met in Varanasi, wore trousers, a shirt and shoes, clothing that would be fairly formal back home in the UK. At that temperature, I don’t think I could have bare the heat, in the suit I wear for work.
	We take a boat to the far side of the Ganges and visit the 17th century Ramnagar fort. It was originally home to the Mharaja of Benares (an older name for Varanasi) It is very well preserved, but then it would be, the king ( the former king ) still resides here. Sadly we had had such a relaxing time walking up the beach, that when we arrived, the fort was closed.
We head back to the beach, to catch our boat back to the other side. We watch the sun set on the Holy River.
	As we reach the other side, we disembark at Dasaswamedh Ghat, where we will watch the nightly Aarti (ritual thanks and blessing given to the river).
I managed to find a place quite high up, to get pictures and capture the ambiance of the ceremony. Several people, perform ritual dances, facing out onto the river. There was traditional music playing out of loud speakers.
	Unfortunately, in the middle of the ceremony, the power failed. The lights went out, and the music stopped. Power failures had been a constant occurrence throughout our visit to India, but up until this point had just added to the experience. I wondered what they were going to do ? They were obviously prepared for this, some musical instruments were produced, and auxiliary power fixed the lighting.
It’s said that no trip to North India is complete without a visit to Varanasi. I haven’t seen the rest of India, so I cant comment comprehensively. What I can say, is that the place was a treasure trove of cultures, adventures and experiences, and I had a fantastic time there.

Tour of India and Nepal – Lumbini.

31st March 200431st March 2016 admin Lumbini Leave a comment

	Dropped off by bus, we bid farewell to Indira, and walk towards the Nepalese Border. I had read that at times, the Nepalese side was so disorganised, that a person could leave India, and end up spending several hours in “no mans land” until the border guards actually woke up. Nothing like this happened, we got through without event. I didn’t buy a visa in advance, which saved £25. I normally do to avoid hassle, but on this occasion, I decided to save a bit of money, and it worked fine. We meet our Nepalese guide, board our bus, and head towards the town of Lumbini in the Himalayas foothills.
After check in, we get cleaned up, get some food, and have an early night. Lumbini was the birthplace of the Gautama Buddha the apostle of peace and the light of Asia in 623 B.C. (he later founded Buddhism, and is known better to westerners as the Lord Buddha). The site is home to Monasteries from Buddhist country’s all over the world. It is in 2 zones, separated by a Canal. East Monastic Zone is dedicated for the construction of Theravada monasteries. West Monastic Zone is dedicated for the construction of Mahayana traditional monasteries. The place evokes a kind of holy sentiment to the millions of Buddhists all over the world- and is the Mecca of every Buddhist, being one of the four holy places of Buddhism.
	Buddhists undertake certain precepts as aids on the path to coming into contact with ultimate reality. Lay people generally undertake five precepts. The five precepts are: 1. I undertake the precept to refrain from harming living creatures (killing). 2. I undertake the precept to refrain from taking that which is not freely given (stealing). 3. I undertake the precept to refrain from sexual misconduct. 4. I undertake the precept to refrain from incorrect speech (lying, harsh language, slander, idle chit-chat). 5. I undertake the precept to refrain from intoxicants which lead to loss of mindfulness.
Bodhi tree and pond at Lumbini The Lord Buddha sat under a tree like this on the night he attained enlightenment. The tree itself was a type of fig with the botanical name Ficus religiosa. In the centuries after the Buddha, the Bodhi tree became a symbol of the Buddha’s presence and an object of worship. Many temples throughout the Buddhist world have Bodhi trees growing in them which are or are believed to be offspring of the one from Anaradapura and their worship forms an important part of popular Buddhist piety.
	The exact location of the Birthplace of Buddha, remained uncertain and obscure till December the 1st 1886 when a wandering German archaeologist Dr Alois A. Fuhrer came across a stone pillar. Historians now know this to be the Ashokan Pillar featured in the centre of this picture.
To the south of the Pillar is a garden with the sacred pool (Puskarni), believed to be the same pool in which Maya Devi took a holy dip just before giving birth to the Lord and also where infant Buddha was given his first purification bath. In the background is another Bodhi Tree, and many fluttering prayer flags. Prayer flags are actually colourful cotton cloth squares in white, blue, yellow, green, and red. Woodblocks are used to decorate the prayer flags with images, mantras, and prayers.
	The foundations of the original birthplace of Buddha inside Mayadevi temple. There is a marker stone, showing the exact spot where he was born. The site was Revealed after a hard and meticulous excavations under the three layers of ruins on top of the site. I took this picture inside, as the building constructed around it, to protect it from the elements, looked (sadly) much like a red children’s fort and was most uninspiring.
Our guide showed us this temple. It is possible to go there for a week, and “study” enlightenment. This involves 7 days of not speaking a word. It was joked that I would struggle to complete this. Our guide pointed out that they would prepare you in advance and you would get lots of meditation practice first.
	Eternal peace flame directly on the Canal, near the world peace pagoda.
The Korean Monastery still under construction. This had the look of many of the “Soviet” buildings I had seen in China and Vietnam, and didn’t strike me as in any way, religious or enlightening.
	I’m not exactly sure, but I think this is the entrance to the Chinese temple. I took the picture specifically because of the 2 lions outside.
Each lions mouth contains a ball, and its said to be impossible to remove it (some kind of Arthurian legend perhaps).
	Inside the Chinese Maitreya Temple.
Our crew pose for a snapshot, on the steps outside the the main hall, of the Chinese monastery.

Tour of India and Nepal – Kathmandu.

31st March 200431st March 2016 admin Kathmandu, Uncategorised Leave a comment

	We finally arrive at Kathmandu, a place I felt like I had waited all my life to see.When I got there, it was a bustling city, and reminded me of the dirtier parts of Manchester on a sunny day. Anyway I was here now, and wanted to make the most of it. Our first trip was Bouddhnath 6km to the east of Kathmandu. A colossal and ancient stupa (Buddhist temple) and one of the biggest in the world and stands 36m high. Like many of the things I had seen on this trip, it was a world heritage site. It took its name, meaning dew drops, from a legend that when built dew was mixed with mortar, as there was a drought.
Around the stupa were many smaller temples like this one. Outside a pilgrimage of American Buddhists arrived by coach.Sadly, in a major tourist attraction like this, scams are inevitable: A man dressed as a monk, was praying, some people gave him money, then we realised, that he wasn’t actually a monk at all. A woman approached us. We thought she was begging, so declined. She said that she didn’t want money, just asked us if we would buy milk for her baby. It was hard to refuse. We found in reality, the woman, and the shopkeeper were in cahoots. The milk was massively overpriced and when we’d gone they would have split the money.
	Nearby we went to see how authentic Thangka (Buddhist) painting was done.Some of them were very beautiful, but I had already purchased a picture from a Thali village I was fond of, and the prices here were very expensive. In the centre bottom of this page, is the newest Thangka design, created personally by the Dalhi Lama. They have trained more than 300 artists here.
Similar to the burning Ghats I had seen in Varanasi.The dead were brought here, to be ritually burned, this was normally done by the eldest son.
	Swayambunath was another Stupa that we visited.The pilgrim’s route to the Swayambunath Stupa is a steep stone staircase of more than 300 steps, often claimed as 365. At the base of the staircase is a large, brightly painted gateway. Inside was a massive prayer wheel nearly 12 feet tall that requires two hands to turn. Filled with thousands of prayers, this wheel strikes a bell each time it makes a complete revolution (perhaps just to make sure someone up there is listening). Be sure to give it a spin before beginning the climb to the top of the hill.
On the way up, I saw some of the monkeys that live here.I was advised to beware, as they carry disease, and can be aggressive. I found that to be good tempered.
	From the top, there are spectacular views of Kathmandu.The earliest record of its existence dates from a 5th-century stone inscription. Scholars and archaeologists believe that there was probably a shrine here as far back as 2,000 years ago. There were dozens of Buddhist prayer wheels built into the wall around the stupa.
We enter the internationally renowned Durbar Square (this would have been a bit more significant, if we hadn’t visited a Durbar Square in Bhaktapur, the day before).In reality Durbar Square means Palace complex, and isn’t an unusual name at all. Getting back on track, sitting in Durbar Square, drinking coffee and watching the world go by is one of the things I have always wanted to do. At one point, the civil police stopped us and asked to see our tickets. Many of the streets here, don’t actually have an names, which can be confusing.
	In scorching heat, this chap carries this enormous heavy load.
It is believed that the name of Kathmandu City is derived from the name of this temple. Kastha means wood and Mandap means pavilion.We had lunch at rooftop restaurant overlooking the square. One of the popular temples of Durbar Square, Kashamandap is known locally as Maru Sattal. It is said to be built by single Sal tree.
	Rather unusual looking postbox.We saw the outside walls of the Royal Palace, but it was closed. There had been a protest the day before, and people had been shot.
Kumari Ghar is the temple of Kumari – the living Goddess. Kumari is believed to be the bodily incarnation of the goddess Taleju.The current Royal Kumari, Preeti Shakya, was installed in 2001 at the age of four. Both Hindus and Buddhists equally venerate her. The Goddesses social calendar must have been busy on the day we were there, as we weren’t granted an audience from her balcony. There is a square inside the temple, which some of the most amazing carvings I have ever seen and the building is simply majestic.
	A statue of Bhairab.It shows Shiva in his most fearsome form. He has six arms, carries weapons and a body, has a headdress of skulls, and tramples a corpse.
That evening, we have our goodbye dinner. It was sad, I had made some really good friends, and I had soaked up so much of the culture that surrounded me, that I wasn’t sure how I would manage back home.We would be flying home the following evening, so it was our last night out together. Our guide took is to a superb authentic restaurant, where several dancing birds and yetti’s performed for us. It was uncomfortable sitting on the floor, but after plenty of beers I hardly noticed.
	On the last day of our trip, we have a private flight around the Himalayas and and Mount Everest.
Although I am an eternal optimist, I know that I will never climb to the top of Everest.As I sat there, I know it was the closest I would ever get to the summit, which was both euphoric and sad at the same time.
	Most unusually we were invited one at a time, to go into the cockpit.I got to look out of the front window, talk to the captain and co-pilot and be shown what the controls do (although they wouldn’t let me touch them).
The Summit of mount everest.The rest of the day, I just wandered around Kathmandu and killed time until our flight home. A few of my friends, asked me why I was so quiet (if you know me, its noticeable when I shut up). After seeing the Summit of Everest with my own eyes, I didn’t feel much like chatting.
	One of the many shops, selling outdoor equipment.Interestingly, many of the items, are made of material from the same supplier as the actual goods and produced by people who have previously worked in an official factory. You can usually only tell the difference by the finishing and the quality of the stitching. Still, if like me, you think most modern outdoor gear is overpriced and over engineered, it produces a superb alternative.
Overall, I was a bit disappointed with Kathmandu. I imagined it as some sort of simple mountaineering town, when in reality it was like walking around a very warm liverpool.You can see from this picture, how busy the backpacker district (where thankfully, we didn’t stay) was.
	A must see for me, was the Fire and Ice restaurant, said to make the best Pizza’s in Asia.Alan Hinks was interviewed after completing the Challenge 8000 (there are 14 mountains above 8000 metres, at this altitude, the human body cannot acclimatise) more human beings have stood on the moon than the top of all these mountains. Run by an Italian Lady, who has the parmesan made in Lhasa.

Tour of India and Nepal – Delhi.

31st March 200431st March 2016 admin Delhi Leave a comment

	I set off on a tour of India and Nepal with the Adventure Company. Flying from Manchester, I stop of in Doha, before continuing to Delhi, to begin the tour.
As I arrive in Doha, I notice a girl in front of me, has a document holder, with the logo of the Adventure Company on it, and I discover that she is on the same trip as me, with her friend Paul. We all go for coffee, and get to know each other. In reality, I forget to take a picture of us having coffee at the time, the reason that we all have suntans in this picture, is because it was actually taken on the way home, and in that way, is a fake.
	The debate of independent versus organized travelling has ranged for years and will continue to do so. One positive thing about organized tours, is that when your plane lands, somebody, is actually waiting for you to arrive, and will start making phone calls if you don’t. Our bags are carefully loaded onto an air conditioned vehicle, and we are driven to our hotel.
The first thing that surprised, was how cows were tethered and grazing in the middle of the road. In fairness, I didn’t find the road system to be any worse than some of the more “exciting” cities I have visited in Europe.
	After we arrive at our hotel, we have a wonder around the hotel vicinity, during the early evening. Here a scene of people relaxing on the street and chatting, street vendors serving snacks, and bicycles being repaired.
Because we had arrived late for the Delhi tour, my friend Kevin let me use one of his pictures.
	Next door to the hotel, I loved the honesty of this no parking sign. I certainly didn’t see anyone park there, at anytime while I was staying.
Early in the morning (very early in my case, as the hotel receptionist, woke me at 3am, rather than 4am, but never mind) we head for the railway station, to catch a train for Agra. Here an enormous line of Tuck Tucks, rise early for the morning business.
	The train platform was crowded and busy, but a lot more organized than I had led to believe for a developing country. Overall, was no different from catching a train on match day in the UK.
The trip brief, said that travelling on a train in India would be a very unusual experience. It certainly was for me, having come from one of the worlds most developed nations, I was completely unprepared for a spotlessly clean train, that left on time 🙂
	The train travelled through some amazing countryside. A few years earlier, they had to stop running the train, as “bandits” dropped onto the roof, and took over the train. Thankfully, nothing like this happened to us.
Being unprepared as I was, 2 young people came over and seemed to want to sell me something. I shoo’d them away. For not the first time while ravelling, I had made an arse of myself. My friend Angela pointed out, that the journey comes with a complimentary breakfast, which they were trying to serve. I apologized to them, and tucked into my breakfast. As always, in a moving vehicle when you are tired, its easy to drop off. I had about 2 hours sleep, the journey was very comfortable. I don’t know who runs the trains in India, but Richard Branson could do worse than hire them.
	We arrive at the busy station in Agra. Considering, I had prepared myself mentally for an ordeal, the train journey, was actually one of the highlights of my trip, and I felt a bit silly.

Tour of India and Nepal – Chitwan National Park (2/2).

31st March 200431st March 2016 admin Chitwan NP 2 Leave a comment

	We wander around the Elephant Breeding Centre.
We were able to buy flatbread, that we could feed to the Elephants.
	Elephants have always been my favourite animals and it was a special moment for me, to be able to spend time with them in peace and quiet away from a Zoo.
Just after leaving the Elephant Sanctuary, our guide takes us trekking along the flood planes.
	Our guide speaks to a colleague. He quickly asks us, if we can move really fast (I though he meant run, but he meant walk quickly) for about 10 minutes. We move quickly through the scrub, and are rewarded by a sighting of a rhino. At one point, the Rhino looks slightly spooked, we back away as instructed (we could see it, but it was too far away to photograph without a zoom lens).
After an exhilarating half hour, we head back to the Elephant sanctuary entrance, to cross the river and go back for lunch. We were surprised to see this.
	We had spent the morning, looking in the wilder parts of the park. We were astounded at the irony, when a Rhino walked right across the grass in front of us, bold as brass. We were able to get really close and see it. One Japanese guy took a real chance and went a bit too close to it. My guidebook was clear about this: Before getting inquisitive with Rhino’s and ignoring the advise of your guide, just imagine being trampled to death !.
After an amazing morning, we head back across the river, to our waiting Jeeps. An old man on the bank, was carving small animals from wood (it was how he made his living). Interestingly, he had Elephants and Rhino’s (I bought one each, have them to this day, they are treasured possessions) and since the spectacle of the Rhino passing, the carved Rhino had doubled in value.
	After lunch, our guide arrives with an elephant, and we take it in turns, to learn how to climb on its back, like the locals, using its very strong ears.
We head to the loading station, where our 3 Elephants arrive, complete with “viewing platform” seats.
	We head gracefully along the trail.
Crossing through Wetlands.
	Finally we reach the bush. In this terrain, it was like being dragged through the proverbial hedge backwards. It was pretty cool cruising high above the forest floor.
We saw loads of wild animals (but unfortunately, no Tigers. Our guide had said lf we see a Tiger, we should go home to the UK, and easily win the Lottery !) The Rhino’s were relaxing in the long grass (well I think that’s what they were doing) and we were able to get right up close to see them, as you can see from this picture. There are 400 wild Rhino’s in the park.
	Afterwards, its time for some R and R. The Elephants needed to be bathed, and we were invited to go down to the river to bath them.
Not my sort of hobby really, so I sat on the bank (with a Beer, obviously), kept hold of the Camera’s and took pictures of everyone. Here Kingsley tries to stay on the Elephants back.
	Later, we wander around into the village. I bought some presents, a beautiful painting of 3 village women carrying baskets (which hangs on my wall at work) and something I have always wanted, a Gurkha Knife. I bought lots of stuff from this Charity shop, which contributes to single mothers in the area.
In the evening, I relax around the bar with Kingsley, the famous Pencil entrepreneur of Indian legend. To mark the 50th Anniversary of the ascent of Everest, a special brand of Lager had been produced. They were still selling it a couple of years later, and it was still delicious. Its moments like these that I treasure, when you sit amongst friends and recount the days events.
	Up early again, and back to the Jeeps, for our final trip out In only 2 days, we had done a village visit, a Canoe Safari, a walking Safari and an Elephant Safari. This was an early morning Jeep Safari, to see small animals.
As we crossed the river by bridge, there was an early morning eclipse (not photographed terribly well.
	As we set off, we see more Elephants along the road. During the Monsoon season, roads like this one are impassible.
As we drive through the forest, in the early morning, there were loads of birds and other creatures to see (there are over 450 species of birds in the park). Sadly, my Camera just wasn’t powerful enough to photograph them.
	I decided to just enjoy the experience. I love driving over rough terrain anyway, and the surroundings, just made it even better.

Tour of India and Nepal – Chitwan National Park (1/2).

31st March 200431st March 2016 admin Chitwan NP 1 Leave a comment

	The Royal Chitwan National Park, one of the “must see” sights in Nepal. I had been looking forward to it, but my expectations were surpassed.
As was the case, on arrival at many of our destinations, we find and sit down in a large garden It was nice to be able to stretch out, after hours inside a vehicle, and made even better with a cold Beer.
	The whole place, was really well organised. They even had this board, showing who was doing what and when. I took regular pictures of the board and referred to the timetable regularly, so as not to waste even a moment of this opportunity.
In the late afternoon of our first day, we head out by Ox cart to visit a local village in Tharu.
	I have been to “villages” (Dubai and Wadi Rum spring to mind) where the “villagers” were actually University Educated actors. This was authentic. A real working village, and the locals, couldn’t have been more friendly.
Our Guide briefs us, before the tour of the village begins. The people of the village, are not naturally afflicted by Malaria, and before Malaria was removed from Nepal, the villagers were the only people who could live here.
	This poor bedraggled chick, caught my eye. It was such a chirpy and upbeat thing, that I couldn’t resist taking a picture of it.
One of the local children, collecting clay and mud from the road, to “improve” his home.
	One of the clay huts, that the villagers lived in. A simple design made from natural resources, but in no way inferior, to many council houses in the UK.
We found wild Marijuana growing in the village (nobody seemed to mind).
	The village has a community Centre, which houses a small museum. While we wandered around, the villagers never came over begging, or trying to “badger” us into buying anything. Instead, they subsidise their paltry income, by charging admission, which made everyone feel more dignified. Here Jane poses outside.
Many of the baskets and traditional wares, used day to day in the village.
	I have attempted to make grass mattresses and doors in the past. None of my attempts have ever been even close to this one. This isn’t actually an artefact in the museum, its a “proper” door.
We reluctantly leave the village and head home.
	Before reaching our camp, we stop of at a local cafe by the river, and enjoy a drink, as the sun goes down.
My home during my stay at CNP. This beautiful chalet, spotlessly clean, with its own veranda. Although close to all the hotels amenities, it was positioned so that you could feel separate and independent if you wished.
	Our guide really did make the most, of every minute of our visit. In the evening, after dinner (and before the ale started flowing !) we were given a talk on local plants.
The next morning, after a relaxing evening socializing, a comfortable nights sleep, and a superb breakfast, we are pickup up by Jeep, and taken to our first activity of the day, a canoe safari. I thought these Jeeps were amazing. Its 80 years old and functions perfectly (the jungle isn’t the kindest place to motor vehicles). I remember thinking, that the person who built this, is probably dead now, but I think he would be proud to know, that its still going.
	We disembark from the Jeep and set off in two large canoes (they were made locally by the tribesmen) and head down the river.
Our punter (he wasn’t into gambling or anything 🙂 kneeled on the back of the boat, and used his stick to point out wildlife. On the right of this picture, you can see one of the “Crocks”.
	You can get some idea from this picture, what it was like to be in the Canoe. The thing that kept worrying me, was what would happen, if the Canoe capsized and we ended up in the water with the Crocks. But then I thought, that’s why its called adventure travel. Also, everyone else in the Canoe, seemed to be thinking the same thing and sat very still, during the journey.
As we leave the Canoe’s, we are shown this plant called “mother-in-laws tongue” !.

Tour of India and Nepal – Bhaktapur.

31st March 200431st March 2016 admin Bhaktapur Leave a comment

	We arrive in Bhaktapur “The Ancient city of Asia”. Previously known as Bhatgaon. Bhat means rice and Gaon means Village. Bhaktapur literally means the City of Devotees. The city is shaped like a conch shell, one of the emblems of the god Vishnu, and was founded by King Ananda Deva in 889 A.D. The city was originally created with large walls encircling it. Despite continual invasion and and the natural calamity of 1934 is still rich in arts. Here Angela and the excellent Jane pose at our rooftop cafe overlooking durbar square.
We enter Bhaktapur through the East Gate the famous Lion Gate is far more spectacular but this way, was closer to our Hotel. We had been traveling all day when we arrived, and coming to the end of our 17 day trip. To be honest, I missed a lot of the details due to fatigue, so if anyone reading, spots a mistake give me a shout. On the left of this picture you can see a board with entrance prices. I have met people who complained about this sort of think, saying that it was a working town. Bhaktapur is said to be one of most beautiful places in the world, so I didn’t mind our guide paying £2 to see it.
	We were introduced to our local guide, and he got straight down to business. The Golden Gate is said to be the most beautiful and richly molded specimen of its kind in the entire world. In the words of Percy Brown, an eminent English art critic and historian, the Golden Gate is “the most lovely piece of art in the whole kingdom. It is the entrance to the main courtyard of the palace of 55 windows. To the the right of the gate, you can see scaffolding where the 55 windowed palace, was being repaired, and sadly we couldn’t visit it. A Garuda tops the gate and is shown disposing of a number of serpents. The four headed and 16 armed figure of the goddess Taleju Bhawani is below the Garuda In the top right of the gate, you can see a guard post, where government soldiers prepare for possible “unrest”.
The sacred pool, in side a forecourt of the Royal palace, after passing through the Golden Gate. Nearby was a sacred Hindu shrine. Since Cows are sacred to the Hindu religion, no leather belts or shoes were allowed in here.
	A Newari tall house. The tall houses (3 stories) are built inside the city and ordinary houses up to 2 stories are built outside the Town. The citizens were reorganized according to the caste system on the basis of their jobs. The higher cast lived inside the town and the lower outside. Also, the King wanted sunlight to reach all houses. Therefore houses were built in a zigzag and the taller houses got more of the light.
Durbar square in Bhaktapur. The square is one of the most charming architectural showpieces of the valley as it highlights the ancient arts of Nepal. In the centre of the picture is the Batsala Temple. On the right is the Dattatraya Temple. It is as old as the Palace of 55 windows. Built in 1427 it is said to be constructed from the trunk of a single tree.
	A close up of Batsala Temple. The Temple is built on a square base, all others in Bhaktapur are rectangular. On the right, is the colossal bronze bell, hung by King Ranjit Malla in 1737 and used to sound the daily curfew. The bell known to local residents as the Bell of barking dogs, as they go wild whenever it is rung (the dogs I mean, not the local residents). Nowadays the Bell is chained and locked.
Nyatapola Temple. This five storied pagoda was built by King Bhupatindra Malla in 1702 A.D. It stands on five terraces, on each of which squat a pair of figures: two famous wrestlers, two elephants, two lions, two griffins, and Baghini and Singhini – the tiger and the lion goddesses. Each of the paired guardians is said to be 10 times stronger the the previous pair. The lowest pair the two strong men Jaya Malla and Phatta Malla were reputedly ten times stronger then any other men.
	The Pashupati Temple has struts like these which feature erotic carvings similar to the ones I saw Khajaraho.
Bhairab Nath the distinctive 3 storied Temple. A temple dedicated to Bhairab the dreadful aspect of Shiva. In times gone by, to encourage trade, areas were set aside in the town for traders to sleep. The main square, and area around the buildings were previously used for this purpose. Today, traders ply their wares in the main square, but in the evening, they probably stay in hotels rather than sleeping next to their stalls.
	I couldn’t believe the sheer bulk of food produce that was on sale. Tons upon Tons of rice and vegetables were piles high at street stalls. Made me wonder why we don’t just do that in the UK.
A seemingly endless sight of people carrying heavy good through the streets. I wonder if some of the people I work with, who complain about workload, should be made to do this job for a day !. This wasn’t just down to people being poor, many of the alleyways, didn’t look like a delivery van could fit down them.
	Siddha Pokhari near the main city gate. It was built in the 15th Century during reign of King Yakshya Malla.
As well as a school, the palace of 55 windows also functions as an art gallery. The art gallery of Bhaktapur Durbar Square contains ancient paintings belonging to the Hindu and Buddhist traditions of various periods.
	The typical occupation of the people are Pottery making, weaving and farming which are still practised in the same old manner passed through generations since medieval eras. This picture shows Pottery square, one of the most famous places in Asia. The selection of pottery for sale, would beggar Harrods. Its possible to have custom made pots, and watch it being made in front of you.
That evening there was a demonstration through the Town. Local women were protesting at how they were treated as second class citizens within the Hindu faith.
	As our guide continues his tour, darkness falls. He explained that the original palace had 99 courtyards, but the earthquake of 1934 destroyed most of them, and left only 7 remaining. Chardham is believed to be the great pilgrimage for Hindus. Chardham was in India, but the old king was clever, and actually created one in Bhaktapur.
In an alleyway, our guide shows us this Peacock window. Its a replica of a similar carved wooden windows which features on the Pujari Math. Once a monastery, it now used as a wood carving museum. The Peacock window was a gift from German to celebrate the wedding of the King and Queen in 1973. Its is considered once of the finest examples of wood carving in the world.
	At night, we wander back to our hotel. Once again a power cut had reduced the entire town to darkness. To be honest, I found power cuts quite exciting !. As we got up in the morning, we found that during the previous day, there had been a protest, and some poor fellow had been killed. His funeral was today, and although friendly, there was tension in the air. The large military presence around Bhaktapur changed its appearance. It was still very spiritual but had a sinister undertones. There were so many soldiers around the main temple, that we couldn’t actually photograph it. It was sad to see it this way just before I left.

Tour of India and Nepal – Bandipur and the Old Inn

31st March 200431st March 2016 admin Bandipur Leave a comment

	Just like in India, we saw the “famous parts of the country, and the authentic parts of the country. Bandipur is well off the beaten track, and an authentic Nepalese Village. in the early 19th Century Bandipur developed into prosperous trading centre. In the 1970s, trading fell into a steep decline with the construction of the Kathmandu – Pokhara highway. Half the street was closed, as the main street was being re-tiled.
We would be staying at the old Inn, a building completely renovated by Himalayan Encounters (they hadn’t paid for builders, they had literally built walls, installed showers and everything themselves (even the managing director)). It was the Rose in the Crown of the companies endeavours, and they were rightly proud of it.
	A view from my window showing the forecourt at the back of the building. Our driver and assistant relax with a soft drink after a long days driving.
We put our bag into our rooms, then congregate in this delightful sitting room. Our guide briefs us, explaining that we will have a tour of the town and the nearby Ramkot village and then have dinner in the Old Inn (I was surprised to hear that it was the only restaurant/bar in the whole village).
	The main street with substantial buildings, with neoclassical façades and shuttered windows. This part of the street was paved with beautiful slabs of silverish slate. Our vehicle had to be parked half a mile away, as it couldn’t be driven on the paving.
This street shows houses of Newari architecture.
	Bandipur is located 700m above the Valley floor bellow. The village school nearby, had a football pitch (that sport, seems to get everywhere).
The local Children joined us on our walk and wanted us to tell them about our home.
	This Police station was deserted. It had previously been bombed by Maoist revolutionaries. When they realised they couldn’t defend it, the government forces withdrew from the area, and it was controlled by the Maoist’s.
This post advocated throwing the the King in prison. It had become common, while trekking, to meet Maoists on the trail, who would “Tax” the Sirdur (the lead porter). They always give a receipt, and these have become quite valuable on Ebay. As I was in Nepal, the King had agreed power sharing with the Maoists and they had joined the government.
	Bindyabashini temple, it is only opened for one day a year.
An enthusiastic stonemason working at 7:30pm in the evening. We later met some local villagers, they noticed the picture on my camera and one of them said, that’s my father !.
	This shelter in Bandipur was built by the equivalent of the social services. The idea is that people travelling through the village on rout to somewhere (which in that country can take several days) have somewhere to sleep, off the ground, with excellent rain cover. It was pointed out, that the shelter wasn’t built to be too comfortable, as somebody would adopt it as their house.
As we walked further around the village, we saw this traditional country seen. This man and his son were working together to construct a plough. From my Bushcraft background, I really wanted to talk to him about the design of the plough. Our guide translated. The man said simply, I am busy. Many Magar and Gurung men in the village, serve as Gurkha soldiers.
	This collection of plastic containers and metal pots, was actually a still, and this “rig” provided most of the alcohol for the locals in the village.
Just like in the Chinese Hutongs, most houses don’t have running water, so there is a central bathing area. The Tindhara (meaning 3 taps) washing area on the south-eastern outskirts of the village.
	The medical centre. This was the office, next door, was the ward. I found it strange that the Dr had gone home, and the sick people were left to lie in bed unaccompanied.
It always amazes me, how in developing countries, people manage without playstation’s, or tv or anything like that. In the evenings, they simply hang out and mingle with friends. I saw these children playing with a hoop and stick, a toy which hasn’t been popular in the UK, for more than 50 years.
	In the evening, we sit around this beautiful table, talk, drink, just generally have a fantastic time. Later in the evening, when it got dark, the room was lit by candles on the table.
My room in the morning, with my Rucksack packed and ready to go.
	In the forecourt, there were some steps leading down to a toilet and storeroom. I realised, that by walking down a few steps, you could get a perfect shot of the back of the Old Inn. Its hard to describe, but without this, it would have been impossible to capture the elevation of the building. Everyone else in the group caught onto the idea, so one by one, they all had a go.
We took breakfast each morning at the back of the hotel. I am not normally a big fan of breakfast, but the days on the trip, were long and a good “feed” first thing in the morning, gave you energy for the whole day.
	This woman was a volunteer, and had been teaching at a local school, and staying at the Old Inn.
The staff at the Old Inn waving goodbye (I took this photo from an alternate angle). I have stayed in some amazing hotels, but the warm welcome and the comfortable surroundings of the place, make it stand out in my memory.

Tour of India and Nepal – Agra and the Taj Mahal.

31st March 200431st March 2016 admin Agra, Central Asia, Uncategorised Leave a comment

	Our train arrives at Agra, and we travel by mini-bus to our hotel. Everyone was very tired from the journey, but the excitement of the day, kept everyone awake.
Once again, the standard of the hotel accommodation was superb. I almost felt bad, that I was wearing my scruffy travel clothes, and this chap had gone to such lengths over his attire.
	We had 90 minutes free time, so I unpacked my gear, had a bath, and then an hours sleep. I just had time to update my journal, and then off we went.
Our guide had advised us, that due to the number of tourists that visited Agra, the people there, had become a bit tourist dependent. She advised that we be wary for pushy people. Some of them were a little annoying, and would stand in front of you, but just as Indirah had said, they were never intimidating or threatening. Made me think, of the number of people who avoid this kind of holiday, and go to spain, thinking they will avoid hassle, and then find not only have they missed some of the worlds most beautiful sight’s but they are also press ganged into visiting nightclubs, sometimes with intimidation.
	Due to environment concerns, motor vehicles are not permitted within a certain distance of the Taj. Here my friends Angela and Paul, sit “comfortably” as they are peddled to one of the worlds most beautiful sights.
I found that the correct “driving” technique, was for the driver to stand one the pedals, until the vehicle go moving, and then using stored momentum, simply steer the vehicle to the Tarj. Ironically, I was being propelled, by my own body weight, which in my case, made my “trike” one of the fastest in the pack 🙂
	The gate leading to the Taj Mahal.
Security was, as you can imagine, quite strict around the Taj Mahal. The staff there, though, we very amenable and friendly. Here a security office agree’s to pose for a photo. The bullet proof vest, and heavy calibre assault rifle (no hand gun here) show that he was a force to be reckoned with.
	Accommodation created to house the architects and builders of the Taj Mahal.
First view of the Taj, as we enter the main viewing area.
	As most of you know, my travels argent spontaneous, and they form part of a bluelist (A list of all the places I have ever wanted to visit in my life). That said, not all the places on the bluelist are of equal importance/significance. Sitting in front of the Taj Mahal, is easily in the top ten, of a list of activities which number more than 3000 from around the world.
Inside, this “wallpaper”, was hand carved from marble.
	A photograph of the taj, from a slightly different angle. During my travel photography course, I had been told that every famous place has some “standard views” and that we should try to photograph places from alternate angles.
We travel back, this time in horse and cart.
	You can see from the main on this horse, the speed we were going.
For lunch, our guide organizes a Southern Indian meal. It was made up of different sorts of pastry.
	The internationally famous Agra fort. I had been looking forward to this, and too be honest, I enjoyed it more than the Taj, as there was much more to see and do.
The main walkway into the fort.
	The superb façade of the outside of the fort. The chap in the picture, had stepped over a security barrier, to take a picture (he was taking his life in his hands, as you can see).
View showing the walls/moat. The castle was originally protect by a moat and 2 walls. The moat contained Crocodiles, the wall was 70 feet high, and between the outer and inner wall, there were tigers roaming. I have visited Beaumaris castle in Anglesey, which was said, had it been completed, to be the most strategically secure castle in the world. Having seen the defences at the Agra fort, I wonder how that could be possible.
	From one of the walkways around the fort, a “window” gives us a view of the Taj Mahal.
The pool in the centre, was originally filled with water.
	The Harem.
One of the baboons that live at the fort.
	In the morning, the Indian equivalent of bean’s on toast. A very spicy bean casserole, combined with traditional bread.
Throughout the trip, it wasn’t hard to see how India is becoming the economic powerhouse of the region. At the railway station, was this bookshop, which contained a wealth of motivational, management and business books, for people to buy and read on the train.