Category: Europe

Krakow 2

20th September 200420th September 2015 admin Krakow 2 Leave a comment

	Due to slightly poor planning (and also the abandon, that comes with having a great time) we realized that it was our last day, and we hadn’t seen the Wieliczka Salt mine, nor visited Auschwitz.Accustomed now to style, having spent 3 nights in the most prestigious hotel in the city, we decide a private car and driver, is the only way to go.Here, the lads take part in that most manly of pursuits, who will sit in the front.For the record, and without bragging, it was me.
As we arrive at the Salt Mine, our private guide leads us down the wooden stairs to the mine.Like many of the Poles I met in Krakow, here English was so good, it embarrassed me.
	A view down through the centre of the staircase, shows the sheer number of flights of stairs, that needed to be descended.A trip to a Salt mine, might not sound like much of a day out, but its reputation is outstanding.Originally started in the 13th Century, there are records of Salt being used from this site, 3500, BC. It is a UNESCO world heritage site, and was once considered the 8th man made wonder of the world.
As we reach the bottom of the stairs, our guide shows us one of the walls made from salt.It was quite claustrophobic in the mine, but a surprising thing was how fresh and cool the air was.There were several different groups, and our guide cleverly steered us around them, so we always got plenty of time to look at the exciting things in the mine.
	As we descend further, these “steps” were cut from rock salt.The salt in the mine, isn’t the stuff you can put straight on your fish and chips, it has to be treated once its been dug out of a mine.
One of the walkways, further into the mine.It captures the depth and “closed in” feel of the mine.
	The miners, were traditionally very religious people. While taking lunch, it simply wasn’t practical to go back to the surface.Hard working people that they were, they decided to “carve” things such as this small chapel out of the rock salt.If you look at the floor, this are not tiles placed on the floor, but actually carved into the rock salt.The crucifix and the archway are also carved from rock salt.
A Sign showing the depth at one point of the mine.Nearly 500 feet, half the height of Ayres Rock.
	The internationally famous Chapel of the Blessed Kinga.To all intents and purposes a full blown church, the only difference being that it is 200 meters underground.
Carved entirely from salt, (including the chandeliers that hang from the ceiling) not by an outsider, but by gifted miners themselves.Here, one of the walls showing many of the carved mosaics.
	The last supper, probably the finest piece carved into the wall, about 5 feet across.Its 3 dimensional look, comes from the fact that it is actually carved 12 inches into the back of the wall, to give it depth.
Not very easy to see (the white salt, could react badly to the flash from my camera, and I was lucky that most of my pictures, turned out okay).The quotes of Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749 -1832) have always been an inspiration to me.Imagine my surprise, to find a statue to him here in the mine !. Turns out, that amongst his talents, he was also a mining engineer, and had worked extensively at Wieliczka.My favourite quote of his:”The moment one definitely commits oneself, then providence moves too.””All sorts of things occur to help one that would never otherwise have occurred.””A whole stream of events issues from the decision, raising in one’s favour all manner of unforeseen incidents and meetings and material assistance which no man could have dreamed would have come his way.”
	The underground Salt Lake.Our guide explained that some drunken people had been in a boat which had turned over, and because of the content of Salt in the water, they floated, and some of them suffocated, trapped under the upturned boat unable to submerge.I asked when it would re-open. She said that the incident had happened in 1918, so didn’t think it was likely to open soon !.
Before we headed back to the surface (there was a lift to take us back up, so no Alpine trekking to the top, for us).A formal assembly hall. Our guild explained that Presidents and Kings have been entertained here.Banquets and state occasions are hosted here, fairly regularly Robert Baden Powell (the founder of the scouting movement) and Pope John Paul II were the ones I found interesting.
	As we wondered back to our car and driver, I noticed this advertisement, for a clinic based in the mine.Apparently, people with chest complaints, can spend time relaxing in the mine, and the dry cool air will help to cure them.An amazing commercial and humanitarian use for a truly amazing place.
The cynical inscription Arbiet macht frie (work makes you free) over the gate.This was Auschwitz 1, converted from an army barracks to a concentration camp, in 1940 on the orders of Henrick Himmler.Most people think of auschwitz as one place, but Auschwitz 2, is based at Birkenau nearby.
	I had previously visited the Killing Fields in Phnom Pen, but it was nothing like this.You could almost feel the repression, fear and hopelessness.1.5 million people died here, at the hands of fellow human beings.As I saw more of the camp, I came to wonder if that was an appropriate description.
People were chosen to be sent straight to the gas chamber, or to literally be worked to death.Everything about the place was about breaking the spirit of the inmates. Public hangings during role call, were fairly common.During the freezing winter, dousing in cold water, as a means of execution, was commonplace.It must take a very low regard for other human beings, to do these kind of things.
	If a Polish prisoner escaped, his family would immediately be sent to Auschwitz.They would be made to wear a sign explaining why they were there, so the penalty for escaping, became well known.Auschwitz isn’t small, but if you look at the facing walls on these buildings, you can get something of the feeling of claustrophobia that descends on this place.
The Nazis shot thousands of people against this wall.Normally political prisoners, clandestine operatives and people who helped others to escape.A sign leading here, said “you are entering a courtyard where the SS murdered thousands of people. Please maintain silence: remember their suffering and show respect for their memory”.I saw one bunch of flowers being placed here by some young people, who’s great grandfather had died against this wall.
	It was in Auschwitz 1, that Maksymilian Kolbe a Franciscan priest, gave up his life for another inmate.For his “crime” Kolbe (who was later canonized), was sentenced to death by starvation.
The camp “orchestra” used to play here.I couldn’t imagine what kind of sick mind, would torment people already facing death, by playing them music.The Nazis were nothing if not practical. The music was designed to make the prisoners move in time, so the line moved at a speed where they could be counted easily.The “musicians”, were literally playing for their lives.
	Our driver took us to Auschwitz 2, Birkenau, and advised us he would drop us of at the back of the site, to avoid crowds.This walkway, shows the sheer size of the place.As we walked towards the entrance, nobody felt like talking much.
At the end of the war, the Nazis ordered many of the buildings to be destroyed with dynamite .This is one of the demolished buildings.The silence was broken, when the mobile phone of a nearby person began ringing. He quickly silenced it.
	Through a window in the upstairs room of the gatehouse, its possible to see the full length of the railway lines leading to the disembarkation area.From here, people would be chosen for extermination, or literally worked to death.Another option, was for a person to be chosen for experimentation.Joseph Mengele, would make a point of being there, whenever the train arrived, to make the clinical selection himself, his preference was for identical twins.It was said, that once selected he treated twins like his own Children.
The railway sidings, where many people would leave the train, and be dead minutes later.Its not easy to describe the feeling, when standing at the end of these railway lines.Something akin to the end of hope. Until this point, the poor people on the train must have thought some kind of intervention or luck would save them.We were told a story where Mengele had selected a young girl for experimentation.Her mother put up a savage fight, and bit one of the guards who was trying to remove her daughter.Mengele drew his pistol (quite why a Dr was carrying a pistol, was never explained) and shot them both.He then ordered that day’s arrival (thousands of people) to be sent to the gas chambers in its entirety, before returning to his office for a cup of coffee.
	The remains of an actual gas chamber.Hundreds of thousands of people died here.Most of you know, that I am not religious, but I hope there is a special place in Hell for Joseph Mengele, and the others responsible for these crimes, which for me, are beyond words.If you want to visit a great holiday destination, then go to Krakow, you wont regret it.If you have problems in your life, visit Auschwitz.Your problems won’t go away, but they will certainly be put into perspective.

Krakow 1

20th September 200420th September 2015 admin Krakow 1 Leave a comment

	Ash, Paul and I head to the amazing city of Krakow in Poland.We stayed for 5 days, and had a brilliant mixture of lads nights out, seeing all the sights of a beautiful city, and visiting the Wieliczka Salt mine, and both of the Auschwitz sites.
We arrived at 8pm in the evening, and got a taxi to our hostel (we had decided on hostel accommodation, as it was cheap and a lads holiday, doesn’t normally require the fineries of a couple’s holiday).Never mind, we went out local, for a pint. Although a quiet out of town bar, we were given our first experience of the sheer hospitality of the people in this country. We had fully expected it to be basic, but it was a bit more basic then we intended (had no bar, beds 2.5 feet wide, and the on-suite bathroom, wasn’t.)
	After a fairly late night, Ash attempts to fight against nature, and get comfortable in this bed.But we weren’t there, to lie in bed, and after a quick wash, we packed our daysacks with guidebooks camera’s and all the usual hoo-ha before hitting the town centre.
I took the lead navigating, and on the way, we passed a traditional Krakow Tram. As we proceeded further, we hit the “Planty”.There used to be a wall, all the way around Krakow.The wall is no longer there, and is now made up of a sort of circular park, that rings the city.In reality, we had been going in the wrong direction, and heading out of town.
	The Church of St Mary, in the Market Square (the largest town square in Europe).The Church is one of the few Asymmetrical Churches in existence.The left tower is the Bugle Call tower, the right is the South Bell tower.
Continuing our walk around the centre, we visit the famous Cloth Hall (Sukiennice) built in 1555.Around the outside of the Hall, are arcades with restaurants and shops.On Saturdays, the whole of this area would become an open air market.In the evening, tables would be put out, serving every kind of cuisine, to hundreds of people, both tourist and local alike. Photographed from the East side, the sun really brought out the colour of the building.
	Inside the Cloth Hall.A vibrant market, selling just about everything you could think of, as well as cloth.It wasn’t just tourist tat either, there were a lot of locals in here, shopping for clothes, food etc which for me proved it authenticity. I bought most of my presents in here.
One of the many types of environmentally friendly transport, the old favourite a horse and cart.These ran up and down the square, seemingly all day and all night. With all the traditional buildings around, this helped to give the square an authentic feel.
	The Church of St Anne.A traditional Baroque Church.The story goes that John of Kety (Jan Kanty) was already a saint when he died, and was put to rest in a Church on this site.To honour him further, the original church was demolished, and this building was built around his grave.Construction began in 1689. Because it was in a small street, it was impossible to photograph the building from the front. There is a clever architectural feature of the doorway, which gives it an enhanced 3 dimensional look, from the front.
There were loads of interesting buildings, all a short walk from each other, starting from the squareThe Collegium Nowodvorianum is a hidden gem within the city. The outside walls, give no clue to the beautiful building inside.The first secular secondary school in Krakow, established in 1586 and one of the best preserved Baroque buildings in Poland.
	As we headed towards the Kazimierz quarter, I took this picture, as the arches kind of lead the eye so well. It’s also one of many pictures I took, where Ash was walking in front of me, and I took a superb picture of the back of his head. One other interesting thing, is the Graffiti featured on the right of the picture. It is one of the few occurrences of Graffiti I saw in an otherwise spotless city. Equally, there were no gangs of teenagers, loitering drunks or anything like that during the whole trip, overall and extremely safe City.I realized later, that although friendly, the City is quite conservative.
We were passed on the way by this “vehicle”. The “driver” steers, and passengers pedal to propel it forward. Although it looked a bit silly, it further convinced me of the commitment to environmentally friendly transport within the city.
	The Church of St Peter and St Paul.The architecture was superb. I found Krakow everything I had hoped Prague would be.
Remuh Cemetery.I had originally intended to go inside, and see the wailing wall. When I got there, it just felt wrong somehow, so I looked around outside.This wall has plaques which commemorate the deaths of peoples family members. One of the plaques had been put up by someone who had lost 83 members of his family.
	A monument laid by the Nissen Foundation. It commemorates the death of Polish Jews by the Nazis. There was a small park behind it, and a series of nice bars and restaurants around the area. I felt it was symbolic. If the victims of the holocaust had been alive, they would probably have been relaxing on a nice day like this, in one of the bars, or having a picnic in the park. The point is commemorating tragedy and loss, can be a celebration, and needn’t be sombre.
On the way back, we had a few drinks in a pub in the Square. The conversation was very contemplative. Probably because of the Jewish cemeteries we had seen, and that we knew we would be visiting Auschwitz quite soon.
	We continued drinking, until around 2.30am. In process we had become separated from each other (the thing I advise friends, never to do, when travelling !). I tried to read the guidebook, and find my way back to the hostel, but my vision was blurred. I saw a hotel, and booked into it. When I awoke in the morning, I had no idea where I was, then slowly the realization hit me. I found myself in the plush Alexander Hotel. I checked out, and then walked for an hour to get back to the lads at the hostel. I found that it had taken Paul 2 hours to get home, the evening before.
The Royal castle at Wawel hill. The slightly projecting section to the right of this picture, is the “Hens Claw” wing which houses a study and a collection of musical instruments.
	As we headed inside the Castle, we stopped to look at the Cathedral, the spiritual home of the nation. One of the most popular buildings in Krakow, among the locals, it has been the scene of Royal Weddings, Coronations and funerals. There was a cafe nearby and some nice gardens.We sat down, and had a drink, while looking at the Castle, shortly before we were attacked by wasps, and forced to leave our beverages.
As we walk through the main entrance to the Royal apartments, Paul is distinctive in his snot coloured t-shirt. The castle had real charm.
	I took several shots of this, but could never really capture the size and opulence of the setting. The balconies around the courtyard, must be fantastic to stand on and take in the view.
We left the Castle by a different route, than the one we entered, and made our way along the water front of the River Vistula. We passed this boat, where a band were playing and had a few drinks.It was a lovely day, and everyone was having a good time . I have never sung along to a Hammond organ before.
	The Pauline Church on the Rock, has an interesting history. In 1079 the king gave orders for his knights to kill a meddlesome bishop (similar in a sense to the English story of Thomas A’ becket). They found the bishop and, drawing swords tried to kill him. A mysterious power repelled their blades as each man tried to strike – it was an omen to be sure. Later the king arrived and killed him while praying. The king became cursed, and a little while later was exiled. The martyrdom of Stanislas Szczepanow gave rise to a powerful cult which led to the late Bishop becoming the only Patron saint of both Krakow and Poland.
During our 3rd day in Krakow, we decided that the hostel just wasn’t for us (it was only about £10 per night, but we just couldn’t get any sleep, and the bathroom wasn’t what we expected). We decided to go a bit upmarket. After making enquiries, we decided to stay at the 5 Star Grand Hotel. The hotel had originally been a house built for one of the Royal princes, and had the styling to demonstrate this.
	The dining room, where we could eat breakfast in the morning (we normally had it, in our room). The whole place reminded me of the people in the film Titanic, and the luxury to which they were accustomed. A luxury, which after 20 years working in computers, I can also enjoy 🙂 On one evening, we stayed up in the bar, quite late, and found out later, that the girl serving us, had worked 50 minutes past her shift, when she could have gone home. This kind of customer service, was common in Krakow.
Our receptionist was not used to clientèle such as us (i.e. seemingly wealthy lunatics !), but remained professional and helpful (and at times mildly amused). Okay, it was a bit expensive, but its one of the best hotels in the country, and well worth the investment in both our comfort, pleasure and ability to sleep without being disturbed.
	We visited the Archaeological museum (is there a city in the world that doesn’t have one of these ?). The park outside was one of the nicest I have ever seen.
Inside, they had some really excellent exhibits, including some authentic bows and arrows (I had just returned from a bow making course, so I found that quite interesting.) Swiatowid. This statue represents a four faced idol holding a cornucopia.Evidence of ancient pagan cults like this, have been found around the Wawel area. You can see what I mean about Ash, can’t you.
	The Market square in the evening was full of atmosphere.We went around several of the pubs in the square. Restaurants, serving everything from Mexican to Curry were of superb quality food.
This shows the inside of one of the many excellent bars we visited. Authentic, friendly and spotlessly clean. On one afternoon, Paul and I went drinking for 3 hours, while catching up (Paul works in Brussels now). The bill came to £10 !.The décor and atmosphere, seemed to rub of on the clientèle. Some lads on a stag do, came in to play pool. We were all expecting the usual sillyness, but this didn’t happen. They came over chatting, asked for recommendations for sights and venues. They were so nice, that we actually bought the groom a drink (if I am in somewhere quiet, I would normally leave, when a stag do arrives, which I think illustrates the contrast).

Barcelona

17th September 200417th September 2015 admin Barcelona Leave a comment

	I am sat at Barcelona Airport at 12 lunchtime, and my flight doesn’t leave until after 10pm.I decide to get the bus into town, and do some sight seeing. Is it possible to tour a whole city, in 5 hours ?. Armed with my DK eyewitness guide I set off to find out.
The bus (which takes only fifteen minutes to reach the city, and runs every 6 minutes 24 hours a day) arrives Plaça Catalunya, the central square in Barcelona.I wander further into the old town.
	The most famous street in Spain. I walk down the Rambla.I really thought it was superb the way all the bars, cafe’s etc were centered around one place. I could see why so many “cultured” Stag and Hen Do’s are now held there.
Placa Reial, Barcelona’s most lively square, just of the Rambla.
	I continued down the Rambla, and saw lots of people selling souvenirs (but these weren’t tacky), offering to draw/paint pictures of me, a guy balancing footballs (he was up to 5 when I left) and various musicians.
At the bottom of the Rambla, the Columbus Column. It is said to be positioned on the first spot that Christopher Columbus set foot back on land, after discovering America. It is inscribed with the word TIERRA, and shows him pointing. The basic idea, is it captures the moment he first set eyes on America.
	A tower for cable cars, connecting the waterfront and Montjuic.
Montjuic hill overlooking Barcelona. I really wanted to climb it, the views of the City are said to be spectacular, but time was scarce, and it just wasn’t possible to fit it into my itinerary.
	Rambla de Mar in Port Vell, at the bottom of the Rambla.
Rebuilt for the 1992 Olympics, Port Olympic is 2 miles long. There were Palm tree’s running all the way along the see front, and people roller skating, cycling and walking dogs.
	It has beautiful Sandy beaches.
Considering its called Port Olympic, the only sport going on while I was there, was a volleyball competition, with a DJ playing really loud “euro” pop.
	I was quite surprised at how many people had come out to sunbath. Its hard to imagine loads of people in London, popping out after work, wearing bikini’s and sitting around Canary wharf 🙂
The Arts hotel and the Torre Mapfre, the 2 buildings on the water front, are both 44 stories high, and the highest in Spain. The one on the left is the Arts hotel, and the one on the right is the head office, of various companies.
	A civic building in Barceloneta. It was such a wild shape, I couldn’t help photographing it.
Parc de la Ciutadella.
	The boating lake. It was just about the best park boating lake I had ever seen. I really wished I had the time to hire one of the boats.
The Zoo on the Park grounds, is famous as it was the first to use moats to contain the animals, rather than cages so that they could be seen more easily, and would feel more at home.
	Inside Barcelona Railway station.
The Seven Doors. Inside, the menu was in 14 languages. The staff were very suave, but you were aloud to go in, in fairly casual clothing. The decor and ambiance inside was like something out of James Bond. Winston Churchill ate here.
	Inside an army of cooks, prepared superb food. The waiting on staff, were impeccably polite and helpful.
One of the small alleyways around Placa Reial. Very long and thin, I wouldn’t like to wander around here at night.
	The Four Cats restaurant. Four Cats in Spanish means something of little importance. It was popular meeting place for Pablo Picasso, and the Stella Artious advert, where famous artists exchange panting’s for drinks, is said to have actually happened here.
On the flight, I had read the guidebook, which talked about Architecture and Anton Gaudi. I wasn’t really impressed, as that’s not normally my thing. When I got there and actually saw some of the buildings, I couldn’t believe my eyes. This one is Casa Batllo. From the front it looks like the scales of a dragon. Its hard to explain, but the balconies and things are just stunning to look at.
	Casa Mila. The building can be considered more of a sculpture than a regular building. Barcelona has more Art Nouveau buildings than any other city in the world.
Sagrada Familia – The Guadi Cathedral. Unfortunately, he died before it was completed (he was hit by a tram and later died of his injuries). It’s said that he was so obsessed with this work, that he took up residence on the construction site. During the revolution, the rioters destroyed his working papers and models, so that it could never be completed (they did this, in their minds to honour him).
	A terrace in the Park Guell, designed by Gaudi.
The twisting rock pillars that support the terrace above.
	The steps near the Dragon fountain. In summary, it was possible to see a place in 5 hours, but there was no time to relax or take anything in. I had been there before, but if I arrived in a different place I wanted to see, and I only had 5 hours, I would rather not see it, and come back when time was available.

Berlin 2

25th August 200426th August 2015 admin Berlin 2 Leave a comment

	The Television tower (photographed in a similar way to KW Cathedral).It’s possible to get a lift to the top, but the queue length was incompatible with a 2 day trip.
We walked through Tiergarten, Berlin’s largest park in order to visit the Sony Centre at Potsdamer Platz.Potsdamer Platz was literally bombed into nothing at the end of the war, and existed as a no-mans-land during the cold war.It is amazing to see how a place can be transformed with hard work. Made me wonder what the Lebanon could look like one day ?.
	Once inside the Sony Centre, we had a couple of Beers (Sarah has asked me to point out that she had Wine) and had a look around.I configured my organizer, so we could brows the Internet (the whole area is set up for free wireless Internet).
We had a look in the Sony shop, which had prototypes of all the latest home entertainment.Here Frank looks at the latest state of the art televisions, which we could only dream of affording.
	Reichstag with the glass dome on top designed by UK architect Lord Norman Foster.Its from here, that Hitler planned world domination.It would have been easy to demolish it, and build a new building, for a new parliament. Personally, I think its better to turn a symbol of tyranny into a symbol of freedom and tolerance, as the Berlin people have done.
The building across from the Reichstag is used for support staff office space and government accommodation.Its one of the most spectacular buildings I have ever seen, and must easily be a quarter of a mile long.Being super modern, it complements the traditional look of the Reichstag superbly.
	In the early evening, we walked back to our hotel on Friedrich strasse (the excellent Anglatere hotel).On route, we stopped for an Italian meal, which was excellent.
Frank had insisted that we visit the Egyptian museum.I was impressed by the bust of Nefratiti.
	We visited the technical museum, which had an entire wing set aside to rail travel.Here, is a simple wooden box on wheels, which is considered to be the oldest railway in the world.
The Ka De We was shopping centre.Its the largest shopping centre in Europe, and Sarah wanted to go there.Unfortunately, it was closed on a Sunday, so here, she is photographed in the doorway, with the famous bears.
	Sarah also wanted to visit a really famous Chocolate shop, which was built in the mid 1800’s.They had chocolate replicas of the Titanic, and various landmarks from Berlin.
Schloss Charlottenburg, Berlins most famous Palace, just a short walk from the Centre of Berlin.
	Topographie des Terrors, a fascinating outdoor museum about Nazi crimes and the Nuremberg trails.It is located on the original site of the Gestapo and SS headquarters.I know many blame the German people for the 2nd world war and the Holocaust. Probably wont make me popular, but I blame their leaders. I think in similar circumstances, 70 years ago, the ordinary people of the UK would have done exactly the same. Unfortunately half the exhibits were only in German.
This is a small memorial to Holocaust victims, located next to a graveyard ransacked by the Nazi’s.If he was captured, tried and executed, Osama Bin Laden’s body would not be interfered with, once a person has gone, they should be left in peace.These were not terrorist’s. They were just ordinary people who’s loved ones buried them, so they might rest in peace.
	Marx and Engels statue near Museum Island.You might notice that someone has vandalised the statue with graffiti.In Singapore, they would be flogged for doing this !.

Berlin 1

25th August 200426th August 2015 admin Berlin 1, Uncategorised Leave a comment

	Frank, Sarah and I pack our day sacks, and head of to the amazing city of Berlin.Here, Frank and I Pose in “unter den linden” a boulevard of lime trees, which literally means under the limes.
The famous Berlin Sculpture.Before I set off, I saw lots of pictures of it, on the Internet, but they all made it look about 100 metres high.I deliberately Photographed it with 2 people walking under it, so a measure of its real size, could be gauged.
	A remaining section of the Berlin Wall, next to the Topography of Terror museum.
Checkpoint Charlie.A superb museum, about escape attempts from east Berlin was next to it, and was the highlight of our trip.
	Leaving/Entering the Checkpoint sign.Everyone always seems to photograph it from the other side, which says “you are leaving the American sector”I decided to photograph it from the other side.The sign is a replica, the original, was donated by the American government, to the Checkpoint Charlie museum.
The Berliner Dom cathedral on museum island.
	Taken from the steps of the Egyptian Museum.To the right of the Berliner Dom, is the Stasi building.The Stasi building is extremely controversial, and is to be torn down soon.
Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche.I have tried to photograph things from different angles, as otherwise you just end up with the same picture as the one in the guide book.
	Centre of world culture.Built by the Americans during the cold war.Unfortunately, the roof collapsed in the 80’s and had to be replaced.
Brandenburger Tor.It was the busies place in Berlin, at the top of “unter den linten”.There was a memorial nearby, to the Russian soldiers killed taking Berlin at the end of the 2nd world war.
	Overall, the city was very modern, and here, featured peddle power taxi’s.
The Jewish Museum.Designed by Daniel Libeskind 1998 (museum opened 2001) Jewish museum.Some information states that it is modelled on a “burst” star of David.I have also read that it maps geographical events in Jewish history, and the building plots a course across these locations. Impressive and moving.
	The garden of exile, next to the Jewish Museum, which contains the memorial to victims of the holocaust. We arrived early in the morning, when no one was around.

Lisbon – the cheapest capital in Europe and home of Vasco De Gama (2/2).

14th April 200414th April 2016 admin Lisbon 2, Uncategorised Leave a comment

	We wander back through this enormous shopping arcade street.As we stop for lunch and drinks, I’m still struck by how competitively priced this is, compared to London, Paris or Rome.
An innovative approach to policing, they had Segway’s.
	The Santa Justa lift.
We decide to visit Belem.Its a bit away from where we are (Lisbon is quite fragmented) so we get a taxi. This is a statue of Vasco de Gama we passed on the way.
	Monument to the discoveries.A major attraction of Lisbon, was Vasco de Gama. Although circumstances could be more different, I really identified with his thirst for adventure. On the waterfront, this structure, is the Monument to the discoveries, and features all of Portugals famous explorers including VDG and Henry the Navigator.
There’s an African connection.De Gama navigated to the Cape of Good Hope. Next to the monument is a large round are showing an enormous compass and places around the world. It was a gift from South Africa.
	It’s a nice day, and we wander into the Botanical gardens.There’s a sign saying the bank that was sponsoring the Gardens has gone bankrupt, so the place is a bit overgrown and there looking for volunteers. I wandered down this avenue with these beautiful tree’s.
This greenhouse was closed, but otherwise a genuinely lovely spot and amazingly quiet considering just outside were most of Lisbons major tourist attractions.
	I wander deeper into the interior and find these trails where I stop, rest and contemplate thing (like why cant the price of beer be cheaper everywhere in Europe).
Archaeological museum and nearby the Maritime museum, the thing I really wanted to see.
	People queuing to go into Jeronimo’s Monastery.
Everyone else wanted to stay outside and enjoy the weather, so I went into the Archaeological museum on my own.There were some interesting things inside, and it only cost about £2.
	The entrance to the Maritime museum.The site was previously a chapel where sailors went to be blessed before embarking and an uncertain future. Walking through these doors was an enchanting experience, I imagined what it must have been like 500 years earlier.
A statue of Vasco De Gama inside the maritime museum.
	People I go walking with sometimes say Ordnance Survey maps are no good and lack detail.De Gama would have navigated with a map like this one !.
None of the original boats still exist so there were modern models to look at.There was a section showing how “discovery” boat changed over time. Initially with triangular sales of the fishing boat kind. Then the same kind of boat and sail but “square rigged” at the front and finaly this kind of Gallon, which is fully “square rigged”.
	One thing I hadn’t realised, was as far back as the 1500’s, the Portuguese were trading with the Japanese.Here, a Samurai sword they brought back.
And just for fun, a Royal Barge.
	Dan sits out on the waterfront.In the centre of the photo is the enormous Christ the King statue. To the left the Vasco De Gama bridge. 6 road lanes and 10 miles long. The longest suspension bridge in the world.
There was a nice Marina there, so we stopped and had some lunch and a couple of drinks.
	Torre de Belem. Originally, would have been a quarter of a mile out to see, but the land has been reclaimed.Probably the site most people associate with Lisbon. And off home, until the next adventure.

Lisbon – the cheapest capital in Europe and home of Vasco De Gama (1/2)

14th April 200414th April 2016 admin Lisbon 1, Uncategorised Leave a comment

	I’d heard great things about Portugal’s pedigree as a discovery nation while at school.When Simon Calder recommended Lisbon as the cheapest capital city in Europe, a trip had to happen.Like my most recent adventure in Bucharest, it was a budget project.
As we sit in Manchester waiting to fly out, I eat my Boots lunch deal (still the best value at airports).We arrive at Lisbon Portela Airport.It was one of the the biggest (and emptiest) airports I’ve ever landed in.
	Wanderlust magazine did some research into travel mishaps like theft and turning an ankle.They found that when visiting a place for the first time, these things are 98% likely to happen in the firsts 24 hours.For this reason, we took a taxi rather than public transport from the airport. Might not sound like “budget” thinking, but it usually costs more to put a mishap right, than it does to just avoid it. On our way, we get to see the Aguas Livres Aqueduct (which means Aqueduct of the Free Waters), completed in the 1800’s.
We arrive at our hotel, the VIP Berna. As we arrived, 2 other taxi’s arrive behind us, with people from our flight.My guess, they used the same tools as me, and found the cheapest flight/hotel combination. I didn’t think of it at the time, but I should have gotten to know these people, they were kindred spirits. The hotel was spotlessly clean and in a 70’s style, which gave it rather quaint feel (did I just write that !). Didn’t take long to unpack, as we all brought carry on luggage. I decanted my possessions into a stuff sack (I would need my daysack empty for carrying around in the daytime). I setup my phone charger, put my torch next to my bed, ate the Steak slice that Glenn bought me and headed downstairs.
	I get into one of those lifts, that you only seem to find on the continent.You’ll know the kind I mean, if you’ve ever been in one. As you stand in the lift, the wall along one side moves up or down, depending on which way your going. I was horrified to see this warning sign showing what happens if you transport a wheely bin, and put it too near the wall !.
A blessing was how cool the place was inside.Throughout the trip, baking heat was the norm, and this place was an oasis.The hotel had complimentary Wi Fi, which never seemed to work.On the plus side, had a friendly bar, and when we tipped the barmaid, she seemed genuinely delighted.The price of lager, is usually a good cost-of-living indicator in most countries. Pints were about the same as Chester. We were in a European capital city so very good value indeed. In the afternoon/evening, we stay local, get used to the environment and get something to eat.
	In the morning we head out to start exploring.Within just a few minutes I’m struggling to find our location (which is pretty unusual)standard practice in this situation, is the same as mountain navigation.You find a landmark on the ground, then locate it on your map (or guidebook).I realise what the problem is. The nearest landmark is the Bullring. Its listed in the guidebook as “further afield”, and isn’t listed on the central maps. No problem. I work out its South towards the city and roughly where we’ll enter the centre. Twenty minutes walk later. I’ve located our position on the map of Baixa and then cherry pick the sights we want to see.
Heading for Rossio Square, we pass Rossio station.The station is a Romantic recreation of Neo-Manueline facade (that’s why it looks 16th century, but actually completed before the start of the 19th century)underneath the station is a 2.5 kilometre tunnel, one of the greatest feats Portugese engineering.I wanted to see it, as I like the idea of modern tech, hidden behind a traditional facade.
	Rossio in Portugese, means roughly “commons” in English.After the earthquake of 1755, the city of Lisbon was expanded to lower areas bellow Lisbon Castle hill. The idea was to create an area for the common people.In the centre is the column of Pedro IV with fountains in front and behind it.Its the main meeting place in the city so everyone goes there. Among them a youth with long hair and a tan wanders around. He bares a striking resemblance to Dan from our group. We nickname him Danos after the similarity. Dan points out that its a Greek sounding name, and were in Portugal.
Staying in Baixa, we visit Praca da Figueira. It sounds quite grandiose, but it actually means Square of the Fig tree’s)unoriginally a hospital, it was demolished after the earthquake and used as an open market.Sadly there’s no market there now, just coffee shops and the usual social fayre.In this picture, you can see a statue King John I a noble knight born in 1357 (although the statue was actually put up in 1971) You can also see Glenn, a noble Knight from Mickel Trafford and to the lower left of the picture, a chemical toilet.
	We visit our 3rd square in only an hour.Praca do Comercio (know locally as palace square) forms a “U” shape facing out towards the Tagus river.
Lisbon’s town planning department really go for the whole “man on a horse” thing.This statue faces the Tagus and is dedicated to king Jose 1.In the background of this picture you can see the Triumphal arch that forms a gate into the city.
	Just south of the square where it meets the river is Cais das Colunas (Columns Pier).From here you could see out across the bay to the 25 de Abril Bridge (the longest suspension bridge in the world) which links Lisbon with Almada.You can also see the Cristo-Rei (Christ the King) monument. In times past, this was the main entrance to the city for dignitaries, hence its elaborate Marble design. These days its extremely popular, and you have to wait quite a while if you want a seat here.
We decide to walk up the hill (not sure how this ended up happening, the guide book suggests taking the tram to the top and walking down). This place is a maze of narrow winding streets and alleyways.
	Once the wealthiest part of the city, these days its run down, but has loads of character.Although there are no Moorish houses still standing the area still maintains a Casbah feel. I’d been told the Taverna’s are a great place to socialise in the afternoon, but we were there in the morning, and this wasn’t a stag do. It was obvious within a few minutes, that there was no point trying to navigate around Alfama, so we just followed roads to see where they led. The alleyways are called Becos (and are everywhere) with washing strung out between the compact houses. Compared to these, the chinese Hutongs are palatial.
I’d read that a new influx of younger residents had led the creation of trendy shops and bars. We found loads of shops selling crafts and bric-a-brac.Here, a gallery of pictures, all created using coffee.
	At one point, we “trip over” 1 of the 2 must see buildings in Alfama.Sao Vicente de Fora. It means Monastery of St. Vincent outside the walls and is a 17th century church and monastery. The building is done a a Renaissance style know as Mannerism (whatever that means).
And just a few minutes later, the other one, Santa Engracia. In 1966 while the country was a dictatorship, it was turned into a National Pantheon. You probably haven’t heard of any of the people who are interred here, but there are cenotaphs to Vasco de Gama and Henry the Navigator.
	At the top of the hill, there are views over Alfama towards to Tagus estuary. Although very built up, there’s also lots of green area (which we couldn’t see while walking up) where local people grow vegetables.
Quite sensibly, someone has setup a cafe right near this spectacular spot. Its called the Portas do Sol, which means Suns door.
	Leaving Alfama, we head for the Castelo de Sao Jorge, located on a hill overlooking the city with an observation terrace.
The castle was rebuilt in the 40’s but some of the original derelict buildings remain.
	A nice building, but looked like something out of Hollywood.
We’re lads after all, and its a castle, so we wander around exploring.
	There are some archaeological sites within the walls of the castle. You can google them if you want to know what they are.

Munich – return after 20 years (2/2).

13th April 200413th April 2016 admin Munich 2, Uncategorised Leave a comment

	We spent the following day exploring the town.Here the Siegestor arch the gateway to the old town.
Further into Marienplatz (which means St Mary’s square) is the Town hall.I loved this building although it was really hard to photograph.
	It can’t be a city tour without at least one church so here it is, the Frauenkirche Cathedral.
We decided on a half day tour (it was winter so trips to the Eagles nest weren’t running and Neuschwanstein was a whole day thing). Throughout our tour – The rise of the 3rd Reich, there seemed to be a strong alcohol theme.”This is Munich”, replied our guide Roland. “Everything here is about Beer” 🙂
	In his early days, Hitler had apparently been sent under cover to investigate political meetings for the army.The yellow building in this photo is the site of the first one he attended.It was here he realised he liked what he heard and could use it to his advantage.
The site of Hitler’s first rally. held at the Hofbrauhaus.On stage, with a 10 point plan.Most of the people present were just there to drink but with little else to do but relax decided to listen in !.
	Haus der Kunst, the Nazi’s first monumental structure.Art Gallery in a brutalist style (ironically, although the Stalinists were the complete enemy of the Nazi’s, their architecture was almost identical).
Jewish memorial to victims of the holocaust.On the site of the original synagogue. Destroyed Nov 10th 1938 when all synagogues were destroyed during/immediately after, Kristallnacht.
	Bavarian state chancellery.The building wings on either side of the building were destroyed during the war.When they were rebuilt, they were constructed from glass to symbolise a new Germany and transparent government.
Bellow ground level, in front of the Chancellery, The Munich war memorial. It remembers German soldiers who have died in war.
	The White Rose movement were against the Nazi’s.Caught and treated in a brutal fashion, brother and sister Hans and Sophie Scholl were executed.
Feldenhalle.People were ordered to salute the symbol and would actually walk around and out of their way to avoid it.
	Our tour finished here.Hitler’s office, 2nd floor, 3rd from the end.Its here that he met Neville Chamberlain and arranged the Munich agreement. Chamberlain returned to the UK announcing Peace in our Time. Less than a year later Germany invaded Poland and World War II began.
From these pictures, it should be obvious that we had a superb time (and we did).However, Munich is right next to the Bavarian Alps, and to be honest, it was freezing a lot of the time.We visited a sports shop, where Dan was able to buy some gloves and this spectacular hat. I hardly ever make a mistake when packing, but on this occasion I wish I’d brought more warm clothes.
	For a bit of fun we visited the Hunting and Fishing museum.Wasn’t terribly good but it was warm.
Inside though, some of the displays were half finished.Not at all what I’d expected to see in Germany.
	I had this photo knocking around from my first trip to Munich.The helpful staff in the hotel, told me where it was. Somewhere called Konigsplatz (Kings place). The Propylaea gate built by Ludwig the 1st.Lee, David and Caz.
And in the present day, the same building with Glenn and Dan.
	Me standing in front of the state museum of classic art in Konigsplatz.
Not long before we go home.We find a beer hall and eat some traditional Eintopf stew.
	It normally has to be booked weeks in advance, but due to a cancellation, we managed to get on a tour of the BMW factory.No camera’s were allowed so no photo’s to show you, but it was amazing, with staticaly charged paint which jumps towards the car while being printed and hundreds of robots. From here, a taxi to the airport and home.

Munich – return after 20 years (1/2).

13th April 200413th April 2016 admin Munich 1, Uncategorised Leave a comment

	Inspired by James Bond films where our hero turns up at the airport and says “get me the next flight to …” I was inspired to see Europe and went Interailing.Most of the places on the trip, I’ve visited a few times since, but once place that left a mark and didn’t get any attention was Munich.So I rustled up a few friends and off we went.
I absolutely love Germans. Across the whole of Europe, they’re easily my favourite nationality.I’m fascinated by their sense of organisation and it always amuses me when German friends get annoyed by being stereotyped as hyper efficient.On arrival at the airport, this virtual booth promises to answer your question.I thought the picture on the screen of the smartly dressed tourist assistant was designed to catch my eye and then I’d need to type a question on the keyboard.
	But no.We press the button and a real person appears in hi definition 1080p video, speaking perfect English.We asked for details of our train, what time and where. She answered all our questions, wished us good evening and we headed off towards the town.
Our hotel had been chosen by Glenn.It was superb and the service excellent.Only problem with nice hotels, is that the cost of the room, is only the beginning. The price of everything else goes up as well.In this case, beer was £6 per pint.We headed out and I was delighted to find the famous Augustiner (listed in my guidebook) just across the road (more about that later).
	Next morning, after the best breakfast I’ve eaten in years (they must have kidnapped someone from England to make the scrambled eggs that good !) we head out for the day.The Munich underground, wasn’t as modern as I’d expected although the carriages arrived exactly on time.
Our first stop was Olympia park.It was the place that totally inspired me on my previous visit to Munich. Back then, it was 20 years old, and now 40.It was insightful to see, as back home there had been numerous discussions about London’s Olympic facilities, and what would happen to them once the Olympics were over.
	Considered revolutionary for its time, it included large sweeping canopies of acrylic glass stabilized by steel cables.The lake in this picture was frozen but in the summer, people canoe in it.
The view of Olympia hill.A man made hill that overlooks the stadium (the landscaping of the site, cost 20 times what the actual facilities cost).
	A view from the top of the hill.A plaque says that the hill isn’t naturally occurring.It was constructed from bomb destroyed homes in Dresden.
For 33 years, Bayern Munich played regularly in the Olympic stadium.In 2005 they moved to the Allianz Arena, which they share with TSV 1860 Munich.
	The swimming pool and behind it the Olympia tower, 291m high.It was closed to the public on this visit, but previously I’d stood on the viewing platform with Dave, Lee & Caz.
Our next sight was the must see BMW welde (BMW world). Not to be confused with the BMW museum, it features displays and things for children.One thing I’d love to try. You can buy a custom BMW and pick it up from here and drive it home (wherever that is in the world!). They will actually organise your trip home, hotel reservations, restaurant bookings the lot.
	One of the attractions.A bubble car is driven up and down every hours by an immaculately dressed blond women, chauffeuring young children around in it.
Through the window, the BMW worldwide headquarters.7000 people work in this building mostly working on new innovations and ideas.Before leaving, we were lucky enough to have a tour of the BMW factory and got to see some of the ideas brought to life.The bowl to the right of it is the BMW museum which we’d visit next.
	The BMW museum was both spectacular and immaculate.Glenn commented that he had been in hospitals that were dirtier.
Inside they had classic cars, racing cars, motorbikes and aeroplanes.
	Dan and Glenn looking at a section on engines.
Specific things are featured (however subtly) on every BMW model, be it a sports car or a 4×4.One example, is the twin “kidney grills” on the front.I’ve seen them a hundred times, but never really noticed before.
	A massive section on car design featured several concept cars and most interestingly, this clay car.They don’t wast money designing the new shape of a car, casting it in metal and then putting it in a wind tunnel.Its much quicker and cheaper to do it with clay and put that in the wind tunnel.
I was convinced the bar across the road from ours was the “proper” Augustiner (said to be the best beer hall in the city).Many ale houses masqueraded as the Augustiner and I was taken in.This is the actual one in the centre of town.
	On the inside, its bigger than a cinema and packed to the rafters.
The imposter, near our hotel.Although I felt dirty and used, I quite liked the place, so we continued to drink here on the way back to our hotel each day.

Prague: home of Emil Zatopek and numerous Irish bars.

2nd February 20042nd February 2016 admin Prague Leave a comment

	Jo Crawshaw, Me and a few other friends (who decline to be named or photographed 🙂 set off to Prague.Prague is one of the places I have always really wanted to see, and I was looking forward to it. Sarah stayed home, in order to save for our New York trip.
We saw this add for a car rental company.Most of the cars we saw were western and quite modern, which surprised me as Prague had been part of the eastern block, during the cold war.
	We stayed in the superb diplomat hotel and had a brief “party” in our room, where the min-bar was raided.Here we pass through the front gates of the Castle, where armed soldiers perform a similar role to the ones in Buckingham Palace.
Heading West out of the Castle, we walk down some historic steps, before crossing the a bridge and visiting the Jewish Quarter.
	An alternative route to the centre, was a walk through the famous Letna Park, which had spectacular views of Prague.
The old town square.An eccentric old man, played the trombone at annoying volume.
	Jo and I visited a Market in the old town square.The sun hitting the square had to be photographed.
The famous astronomical clock.Hundreds of people flocked to see it, each hour. To be honest, I thought it was quit bland.
	A pipe shop, named after Sherlock Holmes.Seemed to be some problem with the spelling.
Wenceslass square.Not particularly different from any major shopping area, in any major city in the world. Disappointing.
	At the top of Wenceslass square, there was a museum.A student had famously set himself on fire, as a protest against the Russian invasion in 1968. He died after 4 agonising days, there is a cross outside the museum to commemorate him.
The internationally famous Buffalo Bills Mexican restaurant.For one reason and another, we never actually got to eat there.
	Statue in the park next to the Jesuit College.
Prague Botanical Garden.I hadn’t completely thought this through, but since it was winter, everything was dead. Was nice to walk through the park though.
	The famous Ginger and Fred building.Apparently, its a building made to look like 2 buildings dancing together.
The only authentic thing in Wenceslass square, is the internationally famous Europa Hotel.It was featured in the film Mission Impossible.
	We went inside for a drink.The décor was like being in a Dickens novel.
St Charles Bridge.
	As we crossed the bridge, we stopped off, to visit Kampa Island. A rock band were performing a concert there. They weren’t exactly Metalica, but they were enthusiastic and didn’t cost any money.
A bit hard to see, but there was a drinking hall on Kampa Island, called Pub 1 (as you can imagine, it was next to another called Pub 2 !). Its a bit hard to see, but the roof inside was perfectly curved.
	The east gate of Prague castle. It features 2 statues of Hercules.
3 Photo’s of St Vitus’s chapel in Prague Castle.


	View from the castle out over Prague.
We walk down from the castle, through Nerudova street in the little quarter. The little quarter was my favourite part of Prague.
	One of the many excellent beer halls, on Nerudova Street. The logo denotes the name of the building, the house of the 3 fiddlers, as previously, 3 violinists had lived here.
The Church of St Nicholas, further down Nerudova street.
	Another view of St Charles bridge, showing a bit more of the river.
National Theatre, taken from the little quarter.
	A more detailed view of the Theatre building.
A tobacco shop, modelled on Winston Churchill.
	To finish off the trip, before our flight home, we relax in a beer hall, next to the Old Town Square.