Category: Europe

Meet an old friend from Brussels, a wandering “Fin” and visit Athens, the birthplace of democracy (1/2).

2nd February 20042nd February 2016 admin Athens 1, Uncategorised Leave a comment

	An old friend from the Firkin, Paul Nightingale moved away to Brussels with his job (I dont mean he put it under his arm and took it with him, he was asked to relocate by his employer !). We usually meet up to visit different places in Europe. Last year we went to Krakow, this time it was the birthplace of Democracy – Athens. A picture of me standing in front of the Parthenon.
It wasn’t possible to get a direct flight from Liverpool or Manchester, so I flew via Heathrow, and had the pleasure of BA. The problem with this, was that door to door, the journey took 12 hours, a lot longer than your normal Easyjet/Europ weekend combination. The good news was that being BA, the flight and hospitality made for a much more pleasant trip. I got to the airport and decided to get a taxi (its not smart to wander around a country you have just arrived in, when its dark). I arrived at our budget hotel, and was delighted to find the proprietor, very friendly, and my room spotlessly clean.
	I met up with Paul, and we decided to go out for the evening and unwind, with a quick pint, to “take the edge of us”. A Polish bar right near the hotel was atmospheric and efficiently run, so we got settled there. Paul introduced me to his friend Mia from Finland, a charming girl, who like me has a written down list of countries she wants to visit.
In the Polish bar, I meet a Pole, wearing a Man City shirt. My brother and my friend Frank are big fans of City’s so I couldn’t resist a picture. I find Poles amazing people. Although immensely hard working and friendly, they don’t seem smile very often. On the way home, we stopped of for a Kebab, and then got an early night in advance of the following days adventuring.
	The following morning, we get up early for breakfast. There is nothing worse than leaving breakfast, getting out and about in a city, being struck by hunger pangs and then eating rubbish at the nearest restaurant. Far better, to fill up early, and then plan for a 2pm stop off for lunch, at a recommended eatery, which is usually cheaper and much better. We pass the Kerameikos, the classical cemetery of Athens with its symbol, a marble bull.
It was amazing to walk around the Agora, it was just like any ordinary relaxing park, but had artefacts going back thousands of years, all around it. This is me standing next to Tholos the site of the 50 member executive committee of the first parliament.
	The temple of Hephaestus. It is said that Athenian pillars have had the greatest architectural influence in history.
At the back, showing the insides of the temple of Hephaestus. The area was cordoned of, so you couldn’t walk around in there.
	Walking around the monument of the eponymous heroes. Not much remains, but originally, Citizens were divided into 10 tribes, each represented by a different Atican hero.
Drains aren’t something I would normally go out of my way to see, but there are some of the first man made drains, ever created. When there is a sever downpour in the park, they still actually work, and clear the excess water, thousand of years after they were created.
	The Odeon of Agrippa. Built in the 1st Century as a theatre, it was destroyed in 267 by the Herulians. In the 5th Century a sprawling palace was built, and the pillars formed a spectacular entrance.
Standing outside the Agora museum. The outside pillared wall, made for a superb photo opportunity, in the way that it “led the eye” Unfortunately, several attempts at using the timer on my camera failed, and we eventually relied on a passing tourist to take this picture.
	We visited several museums, throughout the week This museum, featured only artefacts that had been removed from the Agora.
There were some pretty innovative things on display. This stone, had special runs, so balls could be inserted, and they would randomly select Athenian citizens for Jury service.
	The Panathenaic way, leads form the gate of the Agora, to the Acropolis above. It was used centuries ago for processions, to honor the worthy.
The Christian Saint, Paul used to pray on a rock high above Athens. These century old steps led to the spot.
	Me sitting on Paul’s prayer spot, high above Athens. Many Christians make a pilgrimage to this rock. It certainly has spectacular views of the city.
We went for the usual trick, of choosing somewhere to eat, based on the number of local people that were already eating there. We weren’t disappointed. I don’t think I have ever eaten so much superb grilled meat in a single weekend.

We head up to the Acropolis. This is the Propylaea which only Athenian citizens were allowed to work through, to enter the Acropolis.
	A better picture of the Parthenon, without me standing in front of it.
The calf bearer, one of the famous symbols of Athens (and one of the few interesting things worth looking at in the museum). Created in 570 BC.
	The pine-covered slopes of Filopappos Hill, seen from the top of the Acropolis. It was pretty cold at the top, you can probably guess this from the expression of my 2 photographic subjects.
To the left of the Acropolis, is the Temple of Athena Nike. Her, our home grown Athena, the wandering Fin, gets there first.

Long Weekend in Venice (2/2).

1st February 20041st February 2016 admin Venice 2 Leave a comment

	A river taxi travelling along the Grand Canal, near the Rialto Bridge.
Venice is served by two airports.Treviso where we flew with Ryanair, and Marco Polo, normally serviced by Easyjet. Marco Polo Airport, is actually “on the water” and in the case of hotels like this one, that have moorings, its possible to get a water taxi direct from the airport to your hotel.
	The Rialto bridge, in the centre of the business district of Venice.Unlike places like Portmerion in Wales (which I like a lot) Venice is not an “experimental village” but a fully functioning City, with all the usual kind of facilities and trade, you might find in any other City throughout the world.
The view from the Rialto Bridge, one of the amazing sights of Venice.
	Venice was originally designed by Leonardo Da Vinci.It was constructed from Wooden posts, hammered into the surface. Because they are hammered in so tightly, there is no oxygen there, no algie can grow, and the Wood never rots. Once it was built, the lagoon floodgates were opened, and canals filled the City. This is one of the buildings, and shows how the Buildings seem to “float” on the water.
Ponte degli Scalzi, which replaced a previous Austrian built Iron bridge in 1934.
	Venice train station.I remember Lee and I sitting on these steps, more than a decade ago eating slices of Pizza, that cost the equivalent of 50p each. Inside, the station hasn’t changed much at all.
The Ghetto district.Like Capital in Rome, its local district name, became generic throughout the world. This was the first Ghetto in the world.
	The Giardinetti Reali (Royal Gardens).Just as the guidebook had said, most people visit the City during the day and go home early evening. The place was very quiet and serene after about 7pm.
I wanted to visit the famous “Harry’s Bar” on the waterfront, facing the Lagoon.In times gone by, Ernest Hemingway and other famous writers and adventurers used to drink here. I thought it would a pretty authentic place to write up my notes, and prepare the wording of these web pages.
	The reality was quite different.The staff were Italian, Sarah and I are British, and EVERYONE else was American. None of the guests looked much like writers, and I think the only reason they let us in, was because of Sarah’s pretty dress. I got Sarah a Belini (a famous Venetian drink, originally invented in Harry’s) and asked for a Beer. They sanctimoniously told me, that they didn’t sell Beer. I ended up paying £6.50 for a glass of coke. Overall, a fiasco, but on the plus side, Sarah quite liked the place, so it wasn’t a complete waste of time.
Another shot of the beautiful waterways of Venice.The famous explorer Marco Polo, came from this part of Venice.
	The statue of Daniele Manin, a statesman who fought tirelessly for the freedom of Venice.Leader of the 1848 uprising, he stands on Campo Manin staring towards the house where he once lived.
In the evening, as we walk back to our hotel, on the 2nd night, I notice this picture, painted on the wall.
	In the morning, we rise early, have breakfast, and then head out for a relaxing walk along the waterfront next to the Lagoon.We arrive at the famous Arsenal. This was the first naval shipyard in Europe. For the first time, weapons and munitions were created using a production line. The shipyard became so effective, that a visitor described it as an Arsenal (meaning “house of industry” in Arabic) and the name stuck.
Wandering around the back streets, I see one of these tiny alleyways, that interconnect the houses and courtyards.
	Palazzo Contarini del BovoloHidden in a maze of alleyways, it took ages to find. Navigation wasn’t helped massively by a complete lack of signs and the photo in the guidebook, that made it look like the building was on the waterfront (its actually contained in a courtyard). Bovolo means snail shell in Venetian and and this is meant to describe the “fairytale” staircase of the building, constructed in the 1500’s.
We had sit down meals, for each of our lunches and dinners during the trip, and the feed could only be called excellent.We decided to buy some street food, and eat on the move, as we explored with the last few hours available on our trip. This just shows the sort of take away food you can get in Venice. Its a shame nobody has a shop like that in Chester.
	Destroyed by fire 1836 the opera house, gained its name La Fenice (The Phoenix) after it was rebuilt.It burned down again in 1996 and was re-opened in 2004. I would have loved to watch a performance there, but this was a budget trip after all.
The Peggy Guggenheim gallery in Venice.High brow art, isn’t really my thing, but there are 2 interesting (well I think so) things about this gallery. 1. Jackson Pollock, has an entire room set aside to his work in this Gallery. Pollock was a discovery of Peggy Guggenheim. 2. If like me, you watch the L Word, and wondered who the inspiration for the character Peggy Peabody was, it was Peggy Guggenheim (although she doesn’t have a daughter called Helena).
	Sadly, nothing lasts forever (although cricket sometimes feels like it will never end!) and we get the water bus to the coach station and begin our trip home.Venice is a great short break City since its not on a lot of “stag do” destination lists. I decided to re-visit the interailing destinations I enjoyed in my youth. That means Paris, Munich and Amsterdam have been added to the blue list.

Long Weekend in Venice (1/2).

1st February 20041st February 2016 admin Venice 1 Leave a comment

	It’s more than a decade, since I visited Venice, while interailing around Europe. We decided on a return visit, with a hotel, rather than sleeping overnight on a train.
Our first sight of Venice, is this amazing view, as the road on stilts heads out across an enormous Lagoon, that houses the Canals and buildings of Venice.
	Our 2nd sight of Venice isn’t so inspiring. The Bus station, was a bit drab. Just above the tops of the buses, is the roof of the newest bridge, the Ponte di Calatrava (due for completion December 07) Traditionally there have only been 3 bridges that cross the “reverse s”).
Its possible to get a boat direct from the bus station, to St Marks square where we were staying, but we decided to get out and enjoy the weather. We wander along, next to the Canal, looking at the amazing buildings and Gondola’s for hire.
	Our hotel was right next to St Marks square, and one side of it, was next to the main Gondola Taxi rank.
Inside, the hotel was lovely, and the staff very polite and helpful (which reassured me about using expedia, after my experiences in Beijing). After the stress of travelling, we unpacked our bags, got showered and changed, and headed out to see the sights.
	After a quick wander around the square, we decided to get something to eat. We found a restaurant next to the academia bridge (built in the 1930’s out of wood, as a temporary solution, it remains there to this day). Two superb Pizzas and an exquisite bottle of wine follow.
As we enjoyed our evening meal, we could see Gondola’s sailing along the Grand Canal. A common misconception (probably due to Cornetto ice-cream adverts) is that the Gondola pilot, will immediately break into song, as you set of on your journey. In reality, this doesn’t happen at all. In this picture however, a couple had hired a Gondola, pilot and a professional opera singer to serenade them on their journey.
	As it begins to get dark, we walk back towards Saint Marks square. Hundreds of restaurant tables were placed out in the square for dinning (we decided not to eat here, as we had been told it was very expensive). A Jazz band had a stage set up, and the square filled with music.
Probably the best technical picture I have taken so far. Having finally worked out how to keep the shutter open on my camera, and holding the camera really steady, I was able to take this shot of the square at night, with the moon in the background.
	Torre dell’Orologio. The famous 15th Century astronomical clock.
I took this shot of Campanile, sitting on my back. As stated before, one of the problems with short breaks, is the lack of time to queue. A shame really, I would have loved to see the view from the top of the clock tower. Originally built in 1172 as a lighthouse, to aid navigation across the lagoon. It collapsed with little warning on the 14th of July 1902, and had to be rebuilt.
	The Basilica of Saint Mark.
Photographed up close, on the Basilica, is the symbol of Venice, the Bronze Lion of St Mark (The Winged Lion).
	A closed shot from the side, shows the stupendous architecture and its Byzantine influences.
One of the famous Facade Mosaics. This shows the smuggling out of Alexandria of St Marks body, reputedly under slices of port to deter prying Muslims.
	Next to the Basilica, the Doge’s palace. I found out that the famous adventurer and seducer Casanova, was one of the few people ever to escape from the Palace Prison.
Photo showing the walkway next to the doges palace. An account of Casanova’s escape, taken from the official Venice website: Casanova left the Piombi on the night between 31 October and 1 November 1756. Digging up the wooden planks with a makeshift tool he climbed out of his cell onto the roof and then down into an attic. Crossing the whole palace he reached the golden staircase where he was seen by a guard who mistook him for a politician who’d been locked in and let him out. A legend says he stopped for a coffee in San Marco square before fleeing by sea on a gondola.
	Columns of San Marco and San Teodoro. When the sacking of Constantinople was completed 2 huge columns of granite were removed and erected in the square in 1172. They marked the entrance to the City of Venice, in the days when the City could only be reached by Ship from the Lagoon. At one time, criminals were executed there, and even today, superstitious Venetians will not walk between the Columns.
Beyond the columns, A view out across the Lagoon, from the docks at St Marks Square.

Four days in Budapest (2/2).

1st February 200419th June 2024 admin Budapest 2 Leave a comment

	Across the bridge, we took the Funicular to the top. Honestly, it would have been quicker to walk, but we were here in search of adventure and exploration, and the only way to do this, is to try new things (however boring they might be 🙂 We reach the top of Castle hill (made of limestone, it rises 550 feet above the Danube). The old town around here is the heart of tourism within the city. These statues outside Buda Castle are probably in the top 5 I have seen anywhere in the world.
The Royal Palace was completed in 1424. Today it houses the Hungarian National Gallery, the Budapest History Museum and the National Library. When we arrived, there were TV camera’s everywhere, as this Crane had turned over. Thankfully, it didn’t look like anyone had been seriously hurt.
	Just next to the Funicular is Sandor Palace. It used to house the Prime minister, but today it is used for Presidential Offices (it was completely destroyed in the 2nd world war, and rebuilt afterwards). We watched the rather camp changing of the guard.
I really liked the colour of the trees with the sun hitting them. Basically, there is no significance to this picture, except that I like it.
	Matthias church. It was described in my guidebook (before the idiot French people lost it !) as 13th century church named after 15th century king. Considering the area is so popular for tourism, sign posts were virtually non existent. I simply couldn’t find the military museum (which is a shame, as apparently, they have a really good exhibit about the 1956 uprising).
There were lots of Trabant cars. Agi had commented that her car was very difficult to drive, as it had a quirky gearbox. I saw this Mark III Ford Cortina. Same model as used in Life on Mars, one of the best TV programs of the last 20 years. Reminded me of my friend Frank who appeared in Life on Mars.
	Fisherman’s bastion. A truly enchanting place on castle hill. Its seven towers represent the seven Magyar tribes that settled in the Carpathian Basin in 896. The Bastion takes its name from the guild of Fishermen that were responsible for defending this stretch of the city walls in the Middle Ages. It is a viewing terrace, with many stairs and walking paths. It was designed and built between 1895 and 1902 on the plans of Frigyes Schulek.
It was the third day of our trip, so we decided to stop for a while and have a couple of pints. We found a really atmospheric underground bar nearby.
	God spoke to me, and commanded me to find the Hospital in the Rock. Well, when I say god, I’m talking about the god of adventure travel, Simon Calder, in his 48 hours in … series. The Hospital in the Rock opened its doors in February of 1944. It was built to treat 60 to 200 soldiers but they ended up treating around 600 soldiers and civilians. Beds built for one were ultimately shared between three people, with the least injured in the middle. Mid siege, and out of supplies, the kitchen were forced to use horse-meat to feed their staff and patients. Used again during the 1956 Hungarian Revolution 8 children were born here. It was upgraded and extended to a nuclear bunker in the early 60’s because of the Cold War. Designated “Top Secret” in the early 1960s with the code name LOSK 0101/1, it retained its classified status until 2002.
With advances in nuclear weapons, specifically the neutron bomb, the bunker’s ability to withstand the anticipated Armageddon came under question. A caretaker couple took over maintenance of the facility to keep things like air circulation, heating and humidity control in working order. The beds and other modern medical equipment were kept ready for use. It’s said the only time the X-ray machine was used, was by the janitor himself when he broke his finger. Finally opened to the public in 2006, the present-day museum was opened in March of 2008.
	Walking around on an hourly guided tour, the control room and associated machinery are still in operating condition. All of the first aid supplies and medical equipment are either stockpiled in rooms, or set out on tables, ready for use. The complex has dummy’s demonstrating most of the hospitals functions. In other circumstances, it would look theatrical, but with the humming of the generator, the cold air and stark lighting it feels like one of those star trek moments when everything is frozen in time. Run by a private company, their charter from the government says they must move out completely within 24 hours in case of a national emergency.
It got dark rather early, so I was able to get this picture of the Chain Bridge at night.
	The following day (rather jaded from our whirlwind tour of Budapest) we head for Gellert hill.
I had seen the statue in several pictures, and the first thing that struck me, was how much smaller it was. In the photo you can see, the pavement at the bottom and the top of the statues head, are less than 100m metres apart. Gellert hill, takes its name from St Gerard who is credited with introducing Christianity to the area, by being thrown down a hill (well technically, he was rolled down the hill, in a barrel).
	It was obvious that Glenn’s boot camp training was working, as he easily left me, on the walk up Gellert hill (although I wondered if he would have beaten me so easily, over 25 miles of flatter ground). I stopped to rest, and in the picture, have a sort of ET “sticky out head”.
We reach the top of the hill to find 2 interesting things. 1. Glenn looking pleased with himself. Glenn can be contacted through his Pine and Teak businesses, so I’ll just deal with the Citadel. 2. The Citadel fortress, built by the Habsburg in 1851 following the suppression of the 48-49 uprising. It contained 60 cannon, but was largely for show. The Hapsburg empire has always been a bit of a mystery to me. I mean you just know what the Roman, Ottoman, Egyptian empires where like, but what about the Hapsburg’s. My ex-wife Sarah gave me the best explanation some years ago. They are basically, like the people in Chitty Chitty Bang Bang (the kidnappers, not Dick Van Dyke et al). Today the Citadel, remains as a tourist attraction (and if it is, its probably the most hideous I have seen while travelling).
	Nearby is the famous Liberation monument. The statue was erected in 1947 after the second world war. The main figure is a woman, holding an olive branch, the symbol of peace in her hands. On both sides symbolic figures can be seen: the young man’s victory over the dragon represents the defeat of fascism. Controversially, the inscription has been changed over time as it originally gave praise and thanks to the Soviets for liberating the country: “Erected by the grateful Hungarian Nation in memory of the liberating Russian heroes” It now reads: “To the memory of all of those who sacrificed their lives for the independence, freedom, and success of Hungary “
The area around is popular with walkers as it has lots of trails and forests and stuff like that. As we wander around the parks nearby, we walk down the hill and see the Gellert baths, part of the famous Gellert hotel complex.
	Built in 1916, the Gellert hotel was built in Art Nouveau style, as you can see from the entrance, which faces the Danube.
We head over to the famous Church in the Rock. “built” in 1926, its modelled on the cave at Lourdes and houses the Pauline monastery. It was kept secret during the communist era. When we got there, it had electric doors and the inside looked like a boutique Once again, you had to pay to see a religious building, which I frankly resent, and once inside, you couldn’t take any photos. A bit disappointed, we carry on.
	We wander back along the Liberty Bridge. I don’t like to break with protocol, but I actually liked this bridge more than the Chain Bridge, which is considered a must-see.
Budapest has the largest Synagogue in Europe. It contains the Tree of Life Holocaust Memorial Funded by the Emanuel Foundation (including Tony Curtis), in memory of the 600,000 Hungarian Jews who were murdered by the Nazis. The tree, which is made of stainless steel and silver, is fashioned to look like a weeping willow. Inscribed on its 4000 metal leaves are the names of Hungarian Holocaust victims.
	As we walked along Vaci street we passed this restaurant. Something must have been lost in the translation. The food looked tasty and healthy, yet the restaurant was called Fatal !. Back to our hotel, we jump in a Taxi for the Airport. What do I think overall. I really loved this place, and I’ll definitely come back.

Four days in Budapest (1/2).

1st February 200419th June 2024 admin Budapest 1 Leave a comment

	Sat in my house. I receive a text: a taxi will arrive in a few minutes. get in it.Am I in a real life James Bond film ?. Where will I be taken ?. What will happen ?. Nothing so drastic. After nearly a year of UK based adventures, I have arranged a budget long weekend in Budapest. I am going with my friend Glenn and work commitments, mean he can’t pick me up directly, so he’s sent a cab on account. I arrive in Mickel Trafford and we drive to the airport. The adventure has begun. This photo was taken on Castle hill, overlooking the famous Chain bridge.
More excitement, as we arrive at the airport.Glenn has membership of a private lounge. We get a couple of “free” beers and a bacon butty. Later we read the papers and have a go on this Scalextric (which was set up to entertain children, but we didn’t care).
	So why Budapest ?.I’ve always been fascinated by Eastern Europe as I grew up during the cold war. Several of my friends had recommended it, and since I hadn’t visited Hungary before, the decision was easy. Its history is impressive. It has been controlled by empires of the Celts, Romans, Mongols, Ottomans, Austrians, Germans and Russian. Pest and Buda were the furthest lying areas of the Ottoman and Austrian empires. On the 17th November 1873 Buda, Obuda and Pest (for simplicity’s sake, Pest is the hill, and the 2 others are flat, on the other side) was unified and became one city. This vibrant mix of cultures, is what makes Budapest so Cosmopolitan. Its easily the nicest Eastern European city that I’ve ever visited.
Were on a budget, so we stay in a backpacker hostel – the 7×24 Central Hostel. The building actually contains a dental surgery, which is listed as one of the hostels services, along with no lock-out and free internet. We are met by our host Agi (who owns a Trebant) and given our complimentary drink of Palinka. We are shown around the hostel, which was bright and spotlessly clean. The living room had a really big tv, comfy sofa and a kitchen for making hot chocolate (and other types of cooking as well, I suppose). She speaks with enthusiasm in broken English. An accomplished traveller herself, she leads us to a map on the wall, and gives us a whistle stop tour of Budapest. She raves about a bar around the corner called the Katapult. We decide to stay local since its our first evening and visit the amazing Trofea Grill. All you can eat, normally puts me off, but the food was amazing, and you could drink as much bear and wine and eat as much steak and stuff like that as you liked, for a tenner.
	A friend once told me, when your on holiday, let your body take the rest it needs from you. I slept really well each night, and occasionally, slept in. On this particular occasion, Glenn didn’t sleep in, so was able to take this awful picture of me.
In the morning, we head out exploring (later in the trip, I lent my priceless DK Eyewitness guide to some French people, who lost it !). We walk along the famous Andressy Utca (a world heritage site), with its fine buildings and town houses. Glenn has been doing some research as well. I didn’t realise it, but the most popular souvenirs are maps. Budapest has an international reputation for map making (back in the days when British cartography consisted of “here be wild beasts”).
	As well as being steeped in history, the city was very modern. Many of the people we passed in the morning were dressed in business attire. I have no idea what this bank advertisement is saying, but with the flying knives, it captured my experience dealing with and visiting banks exactly.
At the top of Andressy Utca, is heroes’ square and the Millennium Monument with statues of the 7 tribes that founded Hungary in the 9th century. The monument was constructed to celebrate Hungary’s the 1000’th anniversary in 1896, but wasn’t completed until 1900. The square is complimented by the Museum of Fine Arts on its left and the Hall of Art on the right. The Serbian embassy is next to the square on Andrassy utca, and its here that Imre Nagy secured sanctuary in 1956. On the 16th of June 1989 a quarter of a million people, gathered for Nagy’s reburial (he was executed by the Soviets in June 1958). During the soviet occupation of Hungary, the Monument was completely covered by red textile and a statue of Marx, a worker and a peasant replaced many of the historic national heroes statues which were removed.
	Vajdahunyad Castle in city park was built between 1896 and 1908. Copied from a Transylvanian castle, it incorporates Romanic, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque styles. I was surprised to find it was originally made of cardboard and wood from the thousand year celebrations, and proved so popular that it was rebuilt from stone and brick.
As we wander further around, I realise that the moat was empty. A bit disappointing. In the castle courtyard, one of the most famous statues in Hungary, Anonymous. Reckoned to be a 12th century chronicler, he wrote the first history books (made up mostly of superstition and legend)’ Touching his pen is supposed to be lucky. It was so popular that there was a queue to photograph it.
	Just outside Vidam park, we find this sort of rock bar (well it had posters of famous rock bands, I just wasn’t sure if any of them had ever played there). Glenn comments that its time for a drink. I start to wonder what sort of trip this will turn out to be !. He has coke, and I have coffee. An impromptu “meeting” with this business partner Rob using apple’s facetime and the bars wireless network, demonstrates just how cool technology can be.
“When I am drinking wine” wrote Petofi Sandor, Hungary’s national poet “I am happy and I don’t care who is in power” The House of Terror museum, showed that not everyone felt the same way. It chronicled the atrocities committed against the Hungarian people by the Nazis and the Communists. The building had been used as an interrogation centre for the AVH secret police. I walked through a bright room showing Communist propaganda, and then the room next to it, that showed the reality. Poorly designed tin openers and radios that don’t work. There was some stuff about the 56 uprising including a video of the show trail of Imre Nagy. Most harrowing was a a slow lift journey, with a video interview explaining the daily hangings.
	A T34 tank of the kind used by the Russians to quell the 56 uprising, was located in the foyer of the museum. The pictures behind the tank, show just some of the victims of communist attrition. One very meaningful exhibit said: “Communism turned almost everyone and everything against itself. To tell a joke., to show too little enthusiasm, or give money to families of “social outcasts” or even just to nod at them. Anyone, who did not applaud loud enough, came under suspicion. The brave ones, who defied the atrocious terror regime, were wiped out and buried in unmarked graves, because even in death they represented a threat. The oppressive system did everything in its power to eradicate event their memories. Those, who risked their lives for the freedom of their country, were branded spies and traitors. We do not know the names of many of them, and old lies still keep circulating about some of them. Yet they were true heroes”. The last soviet advisor’s left Hungary in 1989.
I had a fairly focused idea of things to see and we blasted through the city on our pre-planned agenda. I had to remind myself though, that the 3 days we were away, were the only holiday I would have that year, and to take time to enjoy it, rather than just see it as an expedition. We passed by a railway station, and for no particular reason, decided to go inside and look around. Nyugati railway station. Trains run from here to the airport 3 times an hour for £1.
	The Hungarian parliament building (its sited on the banks of the Danube, but you can’t see from this photo). Modelled on the houses of parliament in the UK, it is the biggest parliament in Europe, and the largest building in Hungary. The architect, Imre Standle went blind before its completion. Mátyás Szűrös declared the Hungarian Republic from the balcony facing Kossuth Lajos tér on 23rd October 1989.
It was the anniversary of the uprising while we were there. I’d read previously about the 1956 uprising. A spontaneous, nationwide revolt against the Stalinist government and the courage and ingenuity of the Hungarians. The uprising took place between the 23rd of October and the 10th of November. Its was the anniversary, while we were there, and this tribute had been put up outside the parliament building with cards and flowers from people who had lost loved ones in the fighting. The flag with the hole in the middle (hammer and sickle cut out) became a symbol of the revolution. The new government formally disbanded the ÁVH, declared its intention to withdraw from the Warsaw Pact and pledged to re-establish free elections. By the end of October, fighting had almost stopped and a sense of normality began to return. After announcing a willingness to negotiate a withdrawal of Soviet forces, the Politburo changed its mind and moved to crush the revolution.
	On 4 November, a large Soviet force invaded Budapest and other regions of the country. Hungarian resistance continued until 10 November. Over 2,500 Hungarians and 700 Soviet troops were killed in the conflict, and 200,000 Hungarians fled as refugees. Mass arrests and denunciations continued for months thereafter. By January 1957, the new Soviet-installed government had suppressed all public opposition. These Soviet actions alienated many Western Marxists, yet strengthened Soviet control over Central Europe. Public discussion about this revolution was suppressed in Hungary for over 30 years. October the 23rd is a national holiday. As I wandered along, I found this statue of Imre Nagy. I learned that the revolt had originally begun as a student uprising. Later that day in the hostel, I would see live footage of the Milbank protest in London. The irony disgusted me.
Security around the US embassy was understandably tight so I had to use this stock photo I found on the web. On November 4, 1956, Cardinal Mindszenty walked up to the Chancery door. His Monsignor interpreter, they asked to come into the U.S. Embassy. The low ranking corporal wasn’t sure what to do, but since he had the keys, he let the cardinal into the embassy where he stayed in internal exile for the next 15 years !. The Cardinal used what is now the Ambassador’s office as his salon or sitting room, and he slept in the other, smaller room to the side. The police outside the Chancery were ever watchful should he try to escape, and they ran their engines day and night, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, just in case. The memorial plaque reads: “The Government of the United States of America gave shelter to Cardinal Joseph Mindszenty in this building between November 4, 1956 – September 28, 1971”
	Budapest previously had dozens of Soviet monuments and memorials. After independence, the Russian government were informed that they would all be removed except one and let the Russians decide which. This one remains, directly facing the US embassy.
After a busy day exploring, we head back to the hostel, and get cleaned up. I’m not particularly patriotic (although I am proud to be british and come from Manchester). Like many people abroad, I suddenly become more British, Irish, American etc when I’m in another country. It was the City/United Derby that evening and we decided to go an watch the match. The sports bar we found was a bit expensive (£3 rather than the usual £1.10 per pint) but was very quiet and enabled us to watch the match in peace. A bit disappointing since neither side scored and the game was rather uneventful.
	As we walk back, I get this night shot of St Stephens Basilica. In the evening, I found the area friendly and following normal/sensible security precautions, didn’t have any problems with theft, pickpockets at all.
The following morning I am not photographed sleeping, we get up, get some breakfast and head for Castle hill. Although the City was beautiful, we still found homeless people living in the doorways of these arches, just a few yards from a 5 star hotel.
	This picture shows St Stephens Basilica in the daylight. The Basilica, like the Parliament building, is 96m high, they are jointly the 2 tallest buildings in Budapest. This is to symbolise that worldly and spiritual thinking have equal importance and present building regulations make the building of taller buildings within the city an offence.
Roosevelt square (it had previously been called Unloading square !). It had some of the most beautiful architecture (and worst traffic) in the whole city. The 4 season Gresham hotel, is voted 17th in the top 100 hotels in the world (and is only 2nd in Europe). For fun, we looked at spending the night there. We couldn’t find anything under £600 per night !.
	Opposite the Gresham hotel is the Chain bridge, the first built over the Danube. When first constructed it was rated as a wonder of the world and had positive economic and commercial implications for the entire country. It was designed by William Tierney Clark. A larger versions of Clark’s Marlow Bridge, built across the River Thames in the UK, not surprisingly, in Marlow.

Visit to the famous Amster Damm (where it gets its name). No weed, and a sickeningly authentic steak house.

1st February 20041st February 2016 admin Amsterdam, Uncategorised Leave a comment

	Back in the days before Liverpool Airport was done up. (ie, When you could get a cheap pint before your flight, and something non-pretentious to eat !) I set off, with Easyjet, to visit Amsterdam.I’d visited Amsterdam for an afternoon while interailing some years before, but never “overnighted” there.I had heard lots of things about Amsterdam ( The usual “bike shed” conversations about prostitution and the “how hard am I” nonsense about weed) mostly that it was very modern and laid back.
I visited the famous port, where Amsterdam gets its name.There was a really interesting ship museum.I really loved wandering around, and all the people I met were friendly.
	I found details of an historic Pub Crawl.It visited 10 famous old pubs all over Amsterdam, so provided a good frameworkfor a tour of the city.This was a famous pub called the Apothokarie. In times past, the local Dr, would set up practice in an Ale house. The reasoning being that people would come to the pub, straight after work, and that they could gain healthcare as well as Ale from one source !.
I saw all of the usual sights, including the famous skinny bridge.Built by 2 sisters, who lived on different sides of the River, it enabled them to visit each other.
	I used to wear my hair short then, Lionel from the White Lion, used to cut it with clippers.Before going home, I visited a steak house, recommended in the rough guide.On the backs of the benches, were the hides of the animals which were being eaten, which created a slightly uneasy feeling.Went home the next day, will definitely go again.