Category: SE Asia

A visit to Borneo, beautiful islands, amazing culture and kadazan headhunters (3/3).

zoo Our final destination that day, the Kota Kinabalu Zoo.The Zoo was quite new. It was an excellent attraction ,so I was surprised how empty it was.

Our guide said it hadn’t caught on yet, but by the same time next year it would be full every weekend.

The layout of the Zoo, gave the animals plenty of room to move around, unlike the Zoo I saw in Beijing.It was also obvious that the Sabah climate was more suited to the Tiger’s than say the UK. tiger
belephants As we wander around, we see baby elephants.
This animal is called a brown bear, which is a bit daft, considering its obviously black. blackbear
snake A few days earlier, some of the people on the trip, had flown to Sepilok Island, to see the Orang Utan’s.This is a picture of a 23 foot python, taken at the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre in 1999.
The bird house was enormous, and had fine wire mesh around the outside, and netting across the top.The birds were very friendly and accommodating, and as you can see, this Crane, hardly notice we were there. birdhouse
uu1 The thing I really wanted to see. Orang Utan’s.Roughly translated from Malaysian, Orang Utan, means literally Wild Man.

They are some of the friendliest creatures I have ever seen.

If you visit Sepilok, you actually get to hold them, and stuff like that, which we didn’t get to do in the Zoo.

On the other hand, that requires a flight to Sepilok Island, and the Zoo is just a taxi ride away.

As I saw this, I was reminded of my bushcraft training.The things that separates humans from most of the animal kingdom, is a posable thumb (which Orang Utan’s have) and the ability to fashion tools as needed.

Here the Orang Utan uses a carefully selected sharp piece of rock, to break open this piece of bamboo.

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pmonkey Much less talked about, and unique to the Island, are proboscis Monkeys.They have quite a unique shaped nose.

After I returned from the day out, I spent a couple of days relaxing around the town, getting sunburned, sitting by the ocean etc.

I wasn’t massively looking forward to half a day of climbing, but I wanted to get back into the adventure stuff, after a few days of r and r.These excellent guys from Mountain TORQ were the same company that run the highest Via Ferrata in the world on Kota Kinabalu. climbing
meclimbing I had decided a few weeks before heading to Borneo that I would give up climbing (the truth is, I was never very good at it anyway).I was booked on the climbing anyway, and I hate to waste an opportunity.

I had a quick go that morning, and reconfirmed, that I really don’t enjoy climbing at all, and that it does nothing for me.

There was a superb waterfall nearby.

While enjoying the waterfall, I shouted encouragement to my friends still climbing.The waterfall, was raised up from the jungle floor, so I was able to get this superb picture of Gill climbing.

Gill was virtually never at the hotel, and spent every available moment, either in the jungle, or doing some other activity.

She worked as a chemist, and joked that when she went to see the Dr, she was always able to tell him what medication she needed, rather than what was wrong with here 🙂

gillclimbing
jharbour I was running out of free days, and I really wanted to have an intro diving session.I got the mini bus to drop me at Jesselton harbour on the way back from climbing, hopped on a boat, and headed out to the island.
I had a bad experience on the barrier reef some years ago, and ended up being rushed into my first dive.I found the experience extremely frightening, and decided not continue.

Considering that not every outdoor pursuit is for me (I don’t like Skiing for example) I had always wondered if I would have enjoyed the dive, given a little more time.

I met up with Richard from down bellow divers. He gave me a 40 minute brief on theory, we had lunch and then I got suited up.

Intro dives, are a bit more expensive in Borneo, than they are in say Wales, but I think the background of this pictures, shows you why.

divinlesson2
divinglesson1 Richard showed me how all the equipment worked.He really was excellent at teaching.

We got into the water, and I had a go at holding my breath under the water and breathing.

Unfortunately, after 40 minutes, it was obvious, that I wasn’t going to be able to do it.

Each time, I could hold my head under, until my breath ran out, I couldn’t get used to breathing, and ended up panicking each time.

I was slightly disappointed, but as Richard reasonably pointed out, you came here to find out if you could do it, and now you know.

Diving isn’t for everyone. Its definitely not for me.

On the subject of things that are for me, during the evening, I talked a couple of the lads into joining me for some fusion food.We went to the internationally renowned Secret Recipe restaurant.

Their Irish Lamb Stew (which combines the traditional Irish meal, with Malaysian sauces) is one of their signature dishes and has won several awards internationally.

Without realising it, I was sat in front of a picture of the same meal I was eating !.

The following day, Richard and I, along with Dan and JK, headed of to the Salt Route.

fusion
kr When I returned from the Jungle, I was exhausted.I got showered, and had a bit of an early night

The following morning, I decided not to go White water rafting as I had planned, and instead spend the day relaxing on my own.

I was spending 2 days in Kuala Lumpur on the way home, and Its important to make time for yourself when travelling.

I’ve found if you don’t, you can burn yourself out and end up going home more exhausted than when you set off.

As I wandered around the shopping centre, I saw some unusual sights.

A cash machine was being re-filled, and a shotgun armed security officer stood guarding it.

Also, this extremely “cheesy” Kenny Rogers Roasters restaurant chain, are a rave industry in Borneo.

As I crossed the road, I saw this sign, and was reminded of Singapore (which like Borneo and Kuala Lumpur is part of Malaysia).Life without vandalism is pleasant.

I suppose to some of the chattering classes, this would seem like propaganda and brain washing.

If any of them are reading this, I’d like to ask a question ?. Isn’t life without vandalism pleasant, or do you think it isn’t ?.

sign
irish I continue pottering around the shops, buy a few bits and pieces, like a picture of Mount Kinabalu and some new trainers.Because it was daytime, the Irish bar was much quieter and I had something to eat, and a few drinks, by the ocean.
The Menara Tun Mustapha.On the last night of the trip, we had a superb Steak at a restaurant frequented by the locals (forgotten camera so no photo’s unfortunately).

The evening before that, I decided to collect up some volunteers and have dinner at the Atmosphere, revolving restaurant at the top.

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towerdinner Gill and Sarah came along, and the excellent Johnny Crocket.It was dark outside, so the view didn’t really work that well.

The service and food were superb (they even did mashed potatoes).

One memory of the evening that will stay with me, is the floor.

Although the outer floor moves, the inner floor doesn’t.

After only a few minutes, the bar we were sat next to started to drift away, and it was 20 minutes before we were re-united with it.

Equally, a visit to the bathroom involved deciding which way round was quickest, at that moment in time 1.

What a fantastic trip and what an amazing place.I just wanted to take a moment, to say thanks to all the people who helped to make this trip so good.

Mr Micky and his gang, our guide on Kota Kinabalu Johan, and the excellent JK for putting it all together.

Of special mention, are Ms Jumaina (pictured) and all the staff at our hotel.

msjumaina

A visit to Borneo, beautiful islands, amazing culture and kadazan headhunters (2/3).

jesshotel Continuing my exploration of Kota Kinabalu, and the local culture there, I saw the famous Jesselton hotel.The hotel was first founded in 1954.

Kota Kinabalu had originally been called Jesselton after Sir Charles Jessel, Vice Chairman of the British North Borneo Company.

Other famous sights, were this area.Although a modern back packer district, it was historically called Australia District, after the Australian soldiers, who were billeted here during the war. australia
clock Building a colony like this, came at a personal cost.Francis George Atkinson, the First District Officer of Jesselton, died of Malaria aged 28, shortly after being stationed here.

His mother Mary Edith Atkinson sent money to Jesselton for the construction of this clock, dedicated to his memory.

It stands proudly next to Signal Hill Road, near the Police Station.

Sabah tourist board building.It is, along with the clock, one of only 3 buildings that survived the bombing of the area whilst occupied by the Japanese army. tio
warmem This memorial was to the Australian soldiers, who died during the war.My mate Dan had, like me, arranged several different activities, but saved a few free days for spontaneous adventure.

After a quick chat with a member of the hotels excellent staff, we booked transportation and a guide, to see a few more things the following day.

Our first stop, was Sabah museum.This is us photographed outside. mus
oldcars It wasn’t possible to take pictures inside the museum (I’m always disappointed when I hear that). Even more frustrating, the 3rd floor was closed to the public.The collection at the museum told of the history of Sabah, its independence and various sections about village living.

Some of the artefacts were a little more eccentric, and here, a selection of old cars is on display.

This Rolls Royce stood out from the crowd (although there was no indication who had owned it, why it was special etc). roller
hut1 As we wandered around the car park looking for a cafe, we noticed this outdoor section of the museum.I couldn’t contain my excitement. Shelter building is my favourite area of bushcraft, and here was a dozen different kinds of traditional long-houses.

As you can see from this side view, an entire village can live in just one of these things.

Inside the long houses, it was cool and airy.Due to the design of the bamboo beds, they were springy and very comfortable.

The poles above were used for hanging out clothes to dry, if it was raining outside.

hut2
hut3 Another type of long house.
Inside another hut you can see the length inside, and that the walls are slanted in this design. hut4
hut5 I’m always inspired by the connection between past and present.Nearby is a modern hospital. Some health care professionals, had wandered over to the museum to relax in the shade and eat their lunch.

They were kind enough to allow me to photograph them.

As we leave the museum, we pass the Kota Kinabalu state Mosque.Our next destination, was the Monosopiad Kadazan cultural village. mo
khh3 Its name, Monosopiad, comes from the name of the original tribal leader.Before the SAS became involved in counter insurgency in Malaysia and the country became independent, the British government paid head hunters a bounty to hunt the communist insurgents.

Its said that they would pay head hunters for each ear they brought back. I wasn’t so interested in that, but I wanted to see how these people would have lived in the jungle.

The centre is both a museum, and a working example of a traditional Kadazan village.

As we arrived at the village we were given a complimentary drink of traditional rice wine.Our driver wandered around with us, and we were assigned a Kadazan guide, to show us around the village.

The first stop on our tour, was music and dance. Not really our sort of thing, so we progressed on.

khhwalkway
khh_house1 As we continued around, we found 2 superb examples of Kadazan architecture.A traditional Kadazan long house, similar to the ones I had seen earlier in the morning…
And a much smaller house, where either the chief or spiritual leader would live. khh_house2
khh1 Although our guide and the other people there, don’t actually live in the village, they are all from the Kadazan tribe.Here our guide shows us some of the farming and harvesting tools used by the Kadazan, including this hand mill.

He was extremely professional, and his English was better than mine.

An interactive section of our tour allowed us to take part in some hunting games.Here Dan has a go with a traditional blow pipe.

Made of Ironwood, they really were superb, and I was most impressed with their accuracy.

khh4
khh2 We were actually shown around the head room. Hanging from the ceiling above Dan, are the skulls of several people.It seemed barbaric, but like so many times on my travels, a closer look at the facts, reveal the complete opposite.

The basic idea, is that when 2 tribes were heading towards war, the Kadazan would organise a simple dual to the death.

That would mean that only one person would die, instead of several hundred. Our guide stated proudly, that his tribe very seldom lost.

Once the head was brought back to the head room, it was prepared over the following 7 days and nights, during which time, the chief of the tribe would not sleep or eat.

In effect, the ceremony, praised the head, as the dead man, had effectively given his life for the peace of both tribes.

Before heading off, we rest on the beautiful veranda, overlooking the the river (with more rice wine !). openingpic

A visit to Borneo, beautiful islands, amazing culture and kadazan headhunters (1/3).

mebp I’d heard loads of cool things about Borneo.When my old mate JK told me he was organising a multi- activity trip there, I couldn’t resist going.
The flight was from Heathrow early in the morning.I stayed with my friend Kathrin in London (we previously worked together at Arthur Andersen).We went out for the evening and met up with Yuko, who I’d met in Egypt.In the morning, I rose early, with a sense of adventure and headed for the airport (a lot simpler process, than I had expected, I normally struggle with the underground).

The flight out was 12 hours. The selection of available films was limited. The good news was that the flight wasn’t full, so we stretched out in the empty seats.

JK and I enjoyed a game of Who wants to be a millionaire. We actually won 3 times (although we had to play nearly 1000 games to achieve this !).

Slightly annoying, was the confusion over my flight from Kuala Lumpur to Borneo. I ended up flying 2 hours later, on a different plane from the people in my group.

wwtbam
street1 I’d arrived in Borneo, 3rd largest Island in the world.I got into my room, got a shower, had a 2 hour nap, and then went out exploring the town.I have always loved the Jungle.Left unfettered, it knows no boundaries and will literally take over everything. I saw this especially in the Angkor watt and even in city area’s of Bangkok.On one occasion, where hotel construction had been delayed, a primary Jungle had grown right next to a main road in just a few days.

Here in Kota Kinabalu, things were much the same. On the right of this picture, a small rainforest was constructing itself, complete with plants, insects and fish.

Here in the water, you can see a fish swimming about.I have no idea, how it could have gotten into a man made gutter, but its testimony to the shear magic and power of the Jungle. street2
nightout In the evening, there was the usual first night out which went on far too long (mainly my fault) and left many people tired and dehydrated the following day.That said, it was a holiday after all. A lot of the people hadn’t met before, but things went swingingly (but we didn’t do any swinging !).
As we broke into smaller groups and got to know each other, I got chatting to the excellent Steve.Steve is a great bloke, but very focused, and you can see from this expression, he wasn’t very pleased with the shot he had just taken. steve
pubsigns Some of the signs they had on the wall. Just go to show that Ale Houses around the world aren’t that different.
In the morning, I rise early (well, 9 o’clock) and head out to the “islands” that I had been hearing about.Along travelling with me were Dan, Richard (who I had met previously on a navigation course) and Jonny Crocket, the owner and director of Survival School. harb1
meboat We set of from the Sutera harbour resort hotel.Its a 5 star hotel, with its own port and Marina. On previous trips, the lads had stayed there, but this time we were going for basic cheap accommodation.It was felt the money was better spent on real adventure, and I had to agree.We suit up with our flotation jackets, and the boat puts to water.

It was pretty cool.

Initially, it “put-put’s” out to water, but once clear of the Marina, it flew across the bay.

We arrived at Mamutek Island.It was like something from a Malibu advert.The water around this small charter boat, shows just how clean the beaches are. boat
jetty We disembark, and head along the Jetty to pay our Island tax (I didn’t mind, it wasn’t much, and goes towards keeping the island clean, and more than worth it).
Looking out along the beach. Fantastic.The lads had decided to go for a swim and rent some snorkelling equipment.I arranged to meet them later, and went exploring the island. beach1
isljungle1
It wasn’t a very big Island. A path from a secluded part of the beach, led to a trail that cut right across the backbone of the island.The vegetation and plants were amazing and this was a nice introduction to the more serious jungle trekking I would do later in the trip. isljungle2
tent There is no permanent hotel on the Island, and a few people there, were doing a diving course, so had erected their own makeshift accommodation.It looked like a refugee camp, but the people staying there seemed pretty cheerful.
I had a quick “go” of the snorkel.There were some very bright coloured fish in there.This picture doesn’t really capture it, but it was a beautiful day. snorkling
sweeper As we leave I notice this man. His job is to literally sweep the beach and keep it tidy.Several times, I heard government sponsored radio advertisements encouraging people to keep their beaches clean.A slightly more laid back evening (again at the Irish bar) and then the next 2 days climbing Mount Kinabalu.
After an early night, to recover from Mount Kinabalu, I decide to spend the next couple of days finding out about the local culture.There are 30 identifiable ethnic and religious groups who live together in Borneo, in an environment of peace and relative prosperity.Throughout my trip, I found the people friendly and extremely helpful and wondered why, the Chinese were hosting the Olympics and not these fine people.I had heard of the famous Gaya street market, which is held every Sunday in the main high street, right near our hotel. market1
market2 The thing I really wanted to buy, was an authentic Parang (Malaysian Machete) which I had first seen, 20 years previously, in the SAS Survival Handbook, by John “Lofty” Wiseman.Unfortunately, technology had moved on, and all the machete’s in the market, were mass produced.I found a fairly authentic one in a nearby shop, which I would later take into the Jungle, whilst trekking the Salt Route.
Aside from Parang’s, the market, had literally everything you need or think of, and here a local politician holds a surgery at one of the stalls. pol