Year: 2004

My first trip to Africa – Kenya.

31st March 200431st March 2016 admin Africa, Kenya Leave a comment

	My auntie goes into a bookshop in Manchester and asks what book they recomend for a lad about to turn 21.They recomend Wilbur Smith. I really wanted a book about Bruce Lee, or something like that, but I read it anyway and really enjoyed it.Over the months and years that followed I had all 20 + books by Wilbur on the shelf in my bedroom and I was hooked. I especialy liked the parts about Africa and seeing real Elephants and Lions. When I got a chance to go to Kenya and see the real thing, there was no question what I’d do…
The first 5 days we were on Safari.We stayed in superb quality hotels in the East and West Savo hills, and the Treetops resort.Each day we went out on Safari, at around 7am in the Morning around 6pm in the evening. In the morning, it was colder than I expected.
	Our first sighting of the day.A Bull Elephant next to a watering hole.
Living near Chester, and I can see elephants any time I please, its just that they are in a Zoo, and these fine animals were in their natural environment.
	The vehicle we travelled in, had a retractable roof, so we could pop our heads out of the top, to get a better view of the animals (and still stay safe.)
There were other vehicles around.Our guide was quite good, and once a few other vehicles arrived, he would move us on, to avoid spoiling the experience.
	We stayed in the treetops hotel on our first night.Me standing on the Hotel Balcony during daylight.
The bar overlooked a water hole, where Elephants would congregate beneath us.
	A superb picture of a Lion crossing the road, just in front of us.I was using an AFP camera at the time, had used all the film, and it was auto rewinding just at that moment.I just managed to get some more film in it, and take this shot, before it passed out of sight.
A Giraffe, was impossible to photograph close up from the van, so I had to take this picture from a distance.
	Some Zebra congregating at the side of the road.
A fairly rare picture of an Ostrich in its natural environment.
	In the West Savo hills, Sitting by the pool, with a bottle of beer.
But this isn’t any normal poolside, it has this view of the valley bellow.Hundreds of wild animals bellow congregating for water.
	After a while, some Baboons came along.I thought they were basically harmless, but somebody asked the wait to remove them.I couldn’t believe it, when he hit one of the Baboons hard with a steel drink tray.
On the other side of the hotel, were some steps down the inside of the hill, leading to a hide where elephants could be view taking water, at last light.
	During one of our Safari’s we visit underwater hide where you could see Alligators and Hippo’s.Unfortunately, there weren’t any around.
The only silly part of the trip was this tree, located about 30 meters from the bar.Each night a dead chicken was hung from the Tree, and we were promised a chance to see Leopard.One silly sod, actually sat up all night, hoping to see one. In the morning, our guide explained that that close to loud drunk people, it would be more likely to encounter aliens than a Leopard.
	Our guide took us to visit a maasai village where the warriors wore traditional dress.Maasai warriors are surprising, as they are quit lanky and thin.This is made up for by their courage. To become a man at 14 a maasai warrior must stand the charge of a Lion without showing fear.
The outside of a maasai hut, made of sticks.
	The sticks are then covered in mud, which dry’s in the afternoon heat.I cooking fire is placed near the door, the smoke keeps insects away.
Our Maasai guides make fire from friction.
	At the end of our 5 day Safari, we spend 10 days in the Turtle bay beach resort.It is rated as one of the best 10 beaches in the world.
The lads at the bar, became firm friends (especially after they carried me to bed following a daft evening of Vodka and Sprite).
	A morning excursion, took us to a nearby village ruin.These types of trees were used in olden times to make masts for ships.
The village ruin.The guide spent 2 hours showing us around it, and all the rooms and vaults.The original inhabitants of the village were killed and the village left deserted. I’ve ended the section with this picture. Although I’ve visited lots of others, this marks the first time I’d visited an ancient city in person.

30th March 200430th March 2016 admin Sinai Leave a comment

	We drive through the tunnel, underneath the Suez Canal.
I took this picture to try and capture the sheer expanse of the desert, on both sides of the road.
	One of the things I had read about, and was really looking forward to seeing. Viewed from the road, ships appear to sail across the desert (this was illustrated in a famous scene in Laurence of Arabia). It was a long way away, and in the process of shooting, I managed to get this tractor in the picture as well. Slightly annoying.
We stop off next to the ocean and have the option of swimming. Ever the adventurer spot a cave, and make straight for it.
	The cave was very cool and dark. With my head torch, I spent half an hour exploring it (some sections of it could only be reached by climbing through a hole 2 feet in diameter). Me sporting the “C&A man” pose I perfected in Orchha.
Looking out of the cave, towards the ocean.
	As we continue on our journey, we stop to visit this old cemetery.
I investigate this empty stone building. It really was a superb construction, and very cool inside.
	Our splendid hotel at St Catherine’s. There didn’t seem to be any other guests staying. In the afternoon, we relaxed around the pool.
Philipa’s mum had given her a bag of mini eggs, so that we could celebrate Easter Sunday.
	We went out for the evening, and had some excellent food (it cost practically nothing) and then popped back to a nearby hotel, to enjoy the bar.
Mount Sinai in the daytime, the place where God gave the 10 commandments to Moses. I took this Photograph in the daytime, but the plan was to set off really early in the morning, and watch the sunrise.
	As we set off in the early morning, we briefly stop and have a drink (there were several places along the way selling drinks, blankets, sleeping bags etc). The walk wasn’t actually as hard as I thought it would be, but I was still exhausted.
There is no actual peak to mount Sinai, but this is me, standing at the top.
	On a rock quite far out, one particular piece jutted up. The adrenaline Junkie Philipa decides to climb it. Problem was, she didn’t tell me that her camera used film, so I blasted off dozens of shots, not realizing I was using up all the film.
Aud had bought Ralph a water colour set for Christmas and he spent some time painting the view from the peak. Although I have never been interested in art, I felt a little sad at that moment, as I realized I would never be able to capture that mountain view myself, with anything other than a camera.
	As we walked back down, some of the rock formations, really were stunning. I couldn’t help thinking that it would have been better (and quieter) to have walked up in the daylight.
You can see how the light hits these rocks. I am really pleased with this picture, it superbly framed by the rock walls on either side.
	My friend Yuko, on the descent from Sinai, standing next to the “emergency” clinic (actually, I presume its some kind of emergency meet up point, as apart from the stone, there isn’t anything else there !).
The outer wall of St Catherine’s Monastery, the oldest inhabited Monastery in the world. Its said to be the site of the burning bush, and tragically, was closed on the Easter Sunday, when we were there.

Tour of Egypt and Jordan with the Adventure Company – Cairo.

30th March 200430th March 2016 admin Cairo Leave a comment

	I had only been back from India/Nepal 10 days, when I set off, once again,with the Adventure Company on a Pyramids to Petra Trip.With both the Pyramids and the Ancient City of Petra on the blue list, it made perfect sense, with loads of great stuff to do in between.The classic “Three Pyramids” shot in Giza.
I arrived at midnight. Things weren’t great, the airline had left my back behind, and I would have to manage for 24 hours, with just my day sack and the clothes I stood in (not ideal, considering I was wearing a fleece jumper).The good news, was I met up with a really nice couple called Audrey and Ralph. The tour didn’t start properly until following day, so we decided to wander around and see the City.This Beatles shop reminded me of home.
	A saw this “God of Kebabs” as we walked around.Ralph and I gave this guy a bit of money, for allowing us to photograph him.
The following day, the tour begins, with a visit to the Egyptian Museum.It was quite superb, and really captured the ambiance of the old museum in Raiders of the Lost Ark.Unfortunately, camera’s were banned, so I don’t have any pictures. My favourite artifact was King Tuts gold mask. I also saw the substitute Rosetta Stone (made of plastic) donated by the British Museum (I have since visited London and seen the original). After this, we travelled to Giza, to see the Pyramids. I think this picture captures its sheer size.
	I found the only way I could capture the majesty, was from one of the corners (this is a picture of Aud and Ralph).I had been told, that when you visit the Pyramids, you would be constantly bothered by people trying to sell various things.Our guide, had arranged some “outriders” to intercept them, and we were able to enjoy the experience without interruption. I had also heard that when you drive from Cairo to the Pyramids, you travel in an armed convoy, this didn’t happen either, just an air conditioned mini-bus. I walked around the base of this Pyramid, it was a special moment.
One of the smaller Pyramids, dedicated to the Pharos wives.
	I considered getting a shot of me on a Camel, in front of one of the pyramids, but decided against.I have ridden Camels on 3 continents, and although functional, I find it very comfortable.
Our guide was able to advise on all the best shots.This classic of the Sphinx, in front of one of the pyramid of Khafre.It was said at the time, that the beard of the Sphinx is stored in the British Museum (I couldn’t find it).
	Inside a structure near the Sphinx.Couldn’t find out anywhere what it was actually called, main thing I remember is a little boy trying to overcharge me for a can of coke.I took the opportunity, to teach him some of the Newton Heath dialect from my homeland, which I had learned in my youth !. This had the desired effect, and he returned my money.
The actual Sphinx itself, taken from a nearby rampart.It was much smaller than I had expected it to be (which was interesting, as the Pyramids were much larger than I had expected them to be !).
	In the evening, our guide takes us to one of the large riverboats, docked on the side of the Nile.The food was excellent, and the atmosphere of sitting next to the Nile really made the experience.Many people had told me that Cairo was an awful City, dirty and full of Nasty people. I didn’t find that at all, and I have visited far worse cities described as Jewels of there location (Prague is one that springs to mind).
As we left the restaurant, these fine ladies were preparing and baking bread.They were happy to be photographed, and when I handed them a small amount of money (I had after all, stopped them from working, so I thought it was right to give them something) they seemed delighted with the transaction.
	This is the picture of two of the telephone cubicles in our hotel.This picture serves no useful purpose, except that in the film Moonraker, James Bond is having a meeting with somebody.The person is summoned to a telephone call, and then killed in a cubicle like that. When I saw them I immediately thought of that scene, and that’s why they are photographed here.
As we returned from our evening out, I was disappointed to find that the bar was closed.Most of the other people on the trip, fancied a nightcap, but what were we to do. When I spoke to the hotel Manager, he indicated that I might want to talk to the hotel porter.The porter simply told me that I would need a room of my own to host a “party” (which I had). He asked how many cans I wanted, told me the price for the cans, his fee, and the cost of a taxi. The deal was struck, and the cans were delivered to my room. One of the girls on the trip had a set of speakers for her mobile phone, and we all had a pretty cool 2 hour party. These are some of the leftover cans, the morning after.

Visitging the city of dreams – Dubai.

30th March 200430th March 2016 admin Dubai, Middle East Leave a comment

	I had heard many exciting things about Dubai. Since our flight home passed there, we decided on a 2 day visit. We were collected from the airport at 5:30am. It was nearing the end of our 3 week trip, so we were exhausted.
After a few hours rest, we headed into the city to explore. As we drive down the main highway into the city, the sun is in the sky and music is belting out of the stereo. The Winter temperature of between 14 and 28 was very agreeable considering how cold it would be back home.
	The famous Dubai creek, which separates both sides of the city. Its here that the dhows, travel from across the Arabian sea, moor up, next to the creek, and trade goods. The goods are then sold at the market next to the Creek (in times gone by, they were spices, but now, they are more likely to be colour televisions).
We charter a dhow, and travel across the creek. As I take my seat I’m overtaken by the moment. Arabian Sailors have travelled vast oceans in boats like these, long before the birth of Christ.
	We pass some of the larger trading ships on the Creek. Dubai’s historic roots, make its present day status all the more interesting. The country is only the size of Essex. It had, No school until the 1950’s, No electricity until the 1960’s, and its first hotel was built in the 1970’s. The education system has certainly caught up. Our hosts son went to school in Dubai, and had learned English there. He spoke English, the way a concert pianist plays the Piano, it was a delight to hear.
Once we reach the other side of the Creek, we disembark, and wander around the old town, visiting some of remaining few traditional Souk’s (Markets). Here we wander around the spice Souk. Everybody says Dubai is expensive (pints of lager in an ordinary pub are £5-£10) but a trip back across the Creek, on a public dhow, cost only 30p. Today, 1.2% of Dubai residents are dollar millionaires and among its many accolades the most elaborate hotel in the world, the tallest building and a ski-slope in the desert !
	We head off exploring again, and pass the Burj Al Arab, the only 7 star hotel in the world. Located on a man made Island and at 300m high, the tallest hotel in the world. It features entire floor size suites, each with its own reception and full compliment of servants. Taking security to extremes, they actually have a tactical force (like a swat team) which you can hire. They also sell the famous Coffee from CSI, made in Japan, it sells for £90 per lb.
Further on, we pass the Knowledge Village, and Internet City, entire building complexes housing some of the largest technology companies in the world. We have lunch in the Mariner. Tens of thousands of new properties are being built in the area, as it is estimated that 10 million Europeans will live in Dubai by 2010. This doesn’t surprise me, its spotlessly clean, and secure – a lone woman can walk around safely, at nearly any time of the day or night.
	A bit hard see from this picture, but this is the palm Island resort, taken from the Mariner. It’s man made, and from the sky looks like a palm tree. The idea, is that the Palm Tree shape, provides a much larger waterfront area, than a normal “round” island. To illustrate the lengths the designers are going to, planes are actually being sunk around here, so people who enjoy diving as a hobby have something to explore. The next idea is the world island project, which involves hundreds of man made islands, in the shape of each country. Once you own the island, you can build whatever you want on it.
While we were there, the famous ski slope in the desert project , had been completed. It’s located above The Mall of the Emirates shopping centre, so the cooling equipment for the snow, also air conditioned the building bellow. Like so many other places in the world, someone had put lamp post’s everywhere around the building
	Once inside, it was spectacular to see. It has 5 different slopes for different levels of skiing proficiency and snow boarding. The longest run, is 400m, with a 60m fall. Dubai’s next project is a restaurant, completely underwater, that can only be reached by submarine !.
We visit the site of the Burj Dubai tower (since I was there, It’s been completed and renamed the Burj Khalifi tower). When completed in 2008, it will be the tallest building in the world at 800 meters (just 5 meters shy of half a mile) Nearly 300 meters taller than the present tallest floored building in the world, the Taipei Tower in Taiwan. But in Dubai, how long will it be the tallest in the world ? Its design is a bit like several towers, fastened together, in order to make it wind tolerant.
	On our first evening, we go out on Safari across the Arabian Desert. Our driver was impeccably mannered and very professional. We were joined by an Australian couple and their son.
We go Dune bashing in our 4 x 4 Toyota land cruiser. Our driver was expertly trained, and could stop the vehicle, on a dune with a heavy gradient , then just as it started to slide, engage the transmission and move off at breathtaking speed. Embarrassingly, I was the only person in our Vehicle to be “separated from his lunch”, when we parked up to watch the sunset.
	The sunset was a bit of a disappointment, as there was little sun to see !. I thought the desert looked beautiful anyway.
We visit a traditional Bedouin camp. Camel traders try to (politely) part us from our money. The bargaining skills of Arabs, are well known, but we decline the offer of a camel ride.
	We sit down to enjoy our evening barbecue in the desert, on Majalis (low cushions). Later, we are entertained by Mariana, a belly dancer, with significant skill. We were asked to join her, but my dancing isn’t good enough for wedding celebrations in the UK, and certainly no match for a professional dancer.
Our last evening in Dubai, and have dinner at Trader Vicks. Its located in the Madinat Jumeirah hotel, which is modelled on an Arabian town, complete with market. This hotel, has a man made lake, and many of the suites on their own small island, which can be reached only by boat.

Trip to Koh Samui, off the coast of Thailand.

30th March 200430th March 2016 admin Koh Samui Leave a comment

	Thailand was a place I had heard rave reviews about. It was the first time I was going to visit a non western country and I was looking forward to seeing the culture there. As it was, the months previous to this had been extremely stressful and my x wife recommended going straight to an island and relaxing.
We found a nice beach resort, and had our own hut. I spent much of the time relaxing on the chair outside the hut reading (I have never been a great fan of swimming, so didn’t often venture to the pool) Here in my sandals, T-shirt and shorts I sit reading enterprise .com by Jeffrey Papows, the designer/inventor of Lotus Notes.
	When I arrived at the airport, there were a number of signs saying smile country. What I quickly realised, is that the Thai’s are just about the happiest and friendliest people on the plant. This chap ran the bar, with a girl called “A” (I am not joking she was literally called A) In the 10 days I was there, I never saw either of them frowning !.
As mentioned elsewhere, I had always wanted to see real elephants in there natural habitat. This elephant was helping a farmer move logs.
	Another first for me, was to visit the Jungle. It was on 300 metres from a road, but it felt like a jungle to me !
Nearby, another elephant was walking through my “jungle”, which completed the scene.
	We decided to go walking, and visit Koh Samui most famous landmark, The Big Buddha. The map we were using was not to scale and instead of the mile and a half walk we thought it would be, it was about 8 miles in stifling heat !.
Me in the forecourt next to the Buddha. The Big Buddha is 15 meters tall was built in 1972 and located near the northern shore of Koh Samui.
	In the main village of Bo Phut, there were a number of nice restaurants and bars to relax in. After having a 20oz Steak for only £2, I decided to walk along the docks next to the village.
We decided to go on a boat trip to the nearby Angthong National Marine Park. We got of the boat, and walked up a hill, which gave a great view off the whole park.
	Sitting on a boat, drinking bear is something I could get used to doing. I could see how this area was featured in the film, The Beach, with Leonardo DeCaprio.

The wild city of Bangkok, touching tigers and a visit to the bridge on the river Kwai.

30th March 200430th March 2016 admin Bangkok 05 Leave a comment

	Our guide Adam, takes the lead, as we speed across the Chao Phraya river, in our private boat, long tailed boat.
We visit the Royal palace and tour the grounds. Completed in 1782, its magnificence cant be overstated.
	Wat Phrakaewhe – The temple of the emerald Buddha. This is the most sacred temple in Thailand. The Buddha is actually made of Jade or Jasper.
It was not possible to take pictures inside the temple, so I got this shot of it from outside the door. The emerald Buddha has been the cause of many wars throughout the history of that region. The robes on the Buddha, are changed 3 times a year by the King, personally.
	The Royal palace is an astounding collection of 100 buildings, Golden spires and glittering Mosaics. One of the many wall paintings, within the Royal Palace.
Statue of a hermit, the traditional symbol of medicine.
	One of the most stunning sites of the whole trip. An exact replica of the Angkor Wat (the oldest temple on earth) in miniature.
Wat Po, the temple of the reclining Buddha (actually, the largest reclining Buddha in the world). Built in the 17th century, it is 48m long and 5m high and gold plated. Due to the design of the building it is impossible to get a picture side on. The feet, contain the traditional 108 Auspicious sights of a true Buddha.
	Wat Arun, the temple of dawn. Covered in Chinese porcelain. Chinese ships visiting the Siamese capital, would use porcelain as ballast. As an ancient form of environmental friendliness, the ballast would be used for decoration, rather than just thrown in the River. We were allowed to climb to the first level but the 2nd and 3rd were closed.
As we head back to our long tailed boat, our guide “accidentally” takes us into an alley full of souvenir shops and hawkers. We get out of there as quick as we can, and continue our journey. Our tour continues through the waterways of Bangkok.
	We wanted to see a floating market. Unfortunately, companies like Tesco, have largely destroyed this type of commerce. This was the only trader that we could find when we visited one of the more famous areas.
This section of the river had hundreds of fish in it. There was no need for a fishing rod, you could literally put your hand in the water and pull them out.
	We stayed around the Nana Plaza. The traffic in Bangkok is horrendous, so staying at a hotel near the Sky train was essential. In the evening, we go out to a local bar for some entertainment. This local bar owner, had a superb Tie with a dollar bill on it. A Thai wearing a Tie.
Next day, off to visit the bridge on the river kwai. Had to get up at 6:am. On the way we visit a sort of Safari park and see tiger cubs.
	A horse and a cockerel “make friends”.
The highlight of the trip, we got to sit with some real Tigers and touch them. This photo isn’t a fake, I am actually sat with 3 Tigers (there was no-one nearby with a gun or anything, if they “lost it”, I was dead). A real trip out of the comfort zone.
	A trip to the world famous Bridge on the river kwai. This is the bridge across the river, built later by the Thai Government.
Kanchanaburi cemetery, where some of the 13,000 people, who died building the original railway, are laid to rest. On the trip with me, were a brother and sister from Sweden. Together we found a grave, of someone from The Manchester Regiment. The cemetery contains most of the people who died building the bridge, except for the Americans, who were repatriated. There were Japanese tourists everywhere, who were smiling and taking pictures, without a hint of irony.
	After this, we visited the JEATH museum. This stands for Japanese, English, Australian, Thai and Holland. The museum is designed in the shape of a hut, of the kind prisoners would sleep in. There were many pictures and artefacts inside, including this train carriage, used for transporting prisoners. Cholera was the main killer. It was said that a person that contracted this illness, would be unrecognisable to friends 2 hours later.
A section of the original bridge. Only around 50m long, its all that remains of the original, that cost so many lives. In the book/film bridge on the River Kwai, the the bridge is made from bamboo, and other stuff like that. In reality it was built from concrete, wood and steel. Not surprising really, considering as a fiction writer, he was also the Author of planet of the apes ! In reality, the bridge was destroyed by Allied bombers, and not by Commando’s.
	A replica of one of the Japanese watch towers, that overlooked the work camp. Many of the people who built the bridge, were civilians, and forced local labourers.
The present day bridge, built by the Thai Government. There was a tourist train that traversed the bridge every 10 minutes.
	The modern day bridge, taken from a different angle. I walked across the full length of the bridge, it was quite scary at times. In certain places, if you miss your footing, there is nothing to stop you falling in the River.
We drove further up the railway, and then stopped for lunch, at a restaurant next to the line. We had an amazing BBQ lunch and got to sit overlooking the Kwai river, with this view. Its possible to do the trip over 2 days, and there are plenty of really good floating guest houses on the river to stay in.
	Nearby, a section of the railway, runs next to a cliff. We arranged for a driver to drive around, and meet us at the other end. It was about a mile and a half to walk. With the cliff on one side, and the river bellow, it was a pretty spectacularly experience. Half way along, there was an enormous cave dug into the cliff face, where Japanese soldiers sheltered during bombing raids.
Having reached the other side. Some quick refreshments, and then a 3 hour car journey back to Bangkok, with some fascinating conversation from Jenny, her brother and our polygamous driver. A brilliant day out.

Phnom Penh and the devastation of Pol Pot.

24th February 200424th February 2016 admin Phnom Penh Leave a comment

	Sarah and I visit the capital of Cambodia, Phnom Penh. Our first stop is a visit to the Royal Palace.
The Throne hall. The Silver Pagoda is so named, as the floor is made from 5329 silver tiles.
	One of many beautifully painted wall Mural’s.
A house on the palace grounds, built in a French style, and reminiscent of Louisiana.
	The grounds were varied, and included museums showing exhibits of farming and house building techniques. We wandered around for several hours, and then had a break in the coffee shop.
After this, we visit the Raung Damrei National Museum. A traditional Hindu symbol is one of the many artifacts on the grounds outside the Museum.
	The front of the museum. It was not possible to take pictures inside the museum. We had a specialist Museum guide, who talked us through the hundreds of different artifacts and Buddha statues throughout the ages.
In the middle of the museum was a beautiful and well maintained garden. I never normally give to beggars, which is hard, as I know sometimes the money I pay for a newspaper in the UK, could feed them for 2 days. This isn’t because I am tight. I contribute a lot to charity, but I believe we should help people so that they can help themselves, and encourage them to earn money instead. As we left the museum, A street hawker was selling postcards. His hands had been blown off during the war. After we bought some cards, he insisted on giving us our change, which we had to force him to accept as a tip. On another occasion, we gave some small change to a child in the street, and were mobbed by around 20 children as we attempted to get into our car.
	Our guide took is to the central Market. It was much more formal and organized than any of the markets we had visited in Vietnam.
He advised us there were better bargains at the Russian Market. We wandered around for hours, and bought loads of nice things for our new house. In the evening, we visited the internationally famous Foreign Correspondents club, next to Sisowath key on the Tonle Sap River. Supposedly, everyone who is anyone in Cambodia, goes there. The food was excellent, and at one point the power to the building failed, which was exciting.
	Cambodia, was a contrast of some of the most beautiful sights I had ever seen, and some of the most horrible. Here we visit the Toul Sleng museum of genocide used by S-21 to carry out the orders of Pol Pot, who came to power on the 17/4/75. The “lucky” one’s were marched of to the fields and forced to work 12 – 14 hours per day. The rest ended up here. It had once been a high school, it was used for interrogation and torture.
Some things there, I didn’t photograph, as they were frankly too horrible to be put on a public site. Here a cell where “prisoners” would spend 3 days of torture and interrogation, before being executed as a matter of course. The “prisoner” would be chained naked to the bed. They would sometimes be given an empty oil container as a water bottle, and an ammunition box to be used as a toilet. There was dried blood on the floor from where several people had been executed.
	Interrogation was conducted to find out if people were intellectuals or had committed crimes against the state. In reality, whatever they said, they were executed after 3 days. The Khmer Rouge routinely photographed each person before execution and in one of the rooms, their pictures had been put on display. The cruelty of the interrogators new no bounds. One picture showed a woman just before she was executed. She had pleaded for her 2 month old babies life with no regard for herself. In reply, they killed the baby first. In front of her.
As a backlog developed, more and more cells were created to house the enormous number of “criminals”. Most of the “guards” and interrogators, were armed children aged between 10 and 15. They had been taken away from their parents and indoctrinated.
	The grounds were varied, and included museums showing exhibits of farming and house building techniques. We wandered around for several hours, and then had a break in the coffee shop.
After having lunch at the foreign correspondents club, we cautiously headed 9 miles out of town to Choeung Ek. There are actually thousands of sites like this in Cambodia, but this is the one that most people associate with the Killing Fields. Our guide had been lucky enough to be educated in Europe (his English was superb.) and had avoided much of his countries tragedy’s. His Grandfather had been killed by the Khmer rouge, and his father had been killed in the Vietnamese invasion.
	There were ditches everywhere, where bodies had been dumped. If a person was found to be still alive, they would be hanged from one of the nearby tree’s to save ammunition. Although a great effort had been made to remove the bodies, there were bone remnants, literally everywhere you walked. On rainy days, bones are washed onto the path. In this ditch, 166 bodies of people without heads, were retrieved.
Some years ago, I watched a documentary about the killing fields. Children had been swung by their feet against a tree, and had there heads smashed in, to save ammunition. At the site, I recognized the tree. astoundingly, a small child offered to be photographed next to it. Its in the far background, I couldn’t bring myself to stand near it, let alone photograph it.
	The monument containing the remains of 20,000 victims next to the field. People were executed because they spoke French, because they wore spectacles, because they looked “clever” and even if they showed remorse when loved ones were being taken away. A third of the countries population were killed (figures vary between 2 and 3 million dead). Children killed their “criminal” parents with shovels. In 1979, the Vietnamese invaded Cambodia. 10,000,000 land mines were left behind (there are still 1,000,000 to this day) and 600,000 people fled across the Thai Border. In 1991 the UN launched the largest peacekeeping mission in history to restore democracy in Cambodia. In 1998 Pol Pot died in his home under house arrest.
Cambodia has a long way to go to get back to normal, but hope exists everywhere. One our way home, we passed the football stadium. Our guide commented that in a friendly game against Vietnam, they had been beaten 8 – 0. I replied that wasn’t a great result. He said the same football stadium had been a holding area for “criminals” before being moved to Toul Sleng. Most Cambodians, were delighted just to see football actually being played there.

Angkor Wat, lost city in the jungle (1/2).

24th February 200424th February 2016 admin Angkor Wat 2 Leave a comment

	The Angkor Thom elephant gate. It’s possible, to actually rent an elephant and ride it through the gate. On this occasion, only a coach of Japanese tourists is visible.
A base reflex of a mighty army heading into battle.
	The elephant wall. Its about 100m long, and has elephants carved into it.
One of the many amazing 3d carvings of the face of Buddha. Originally a Hindu temple, it was converted to a Buddhist temple and the faces were carved over the Hindu symbols.
	Angkor Thom, is not technically a temple, but is actually a city with temples contained in it.
Me sat enjoying the amazing atmosphere.
	Another excellent find by our guide Mr Han. Its possible in one obscure position, to see 3 contrasting faces, on 3 different monuments. I could have walked around there for days, and not found this spot
The city had many spectacular walkways. Here, the roof has collapsed/been destroyed and only the supporting pillars are visible.
	Two of best preserved serene faces of Buddha. My guide book described it as “investigated with delight, and left with regret”.
The main walkway into At Prohm. At the side of the path, some former beggars, had taken up playing music as a source of income. Many of them had lost limbs due to land mines, but they hadn’t lost any of their enthusiasm for music.
	This is what I really came to the Angkor Wat to see !. Originally built in 1186, it was hidden in the jungle for nearly a thousand years. Like the rest of Angkor Wat, it was discovered in the mid 19th century by Henry Mouhot a French explorer Briefly featured in the film Tomb Raider, there’s something magical about exploring lost cities.
Seeds contained in bird droppings had been scattered all over the city. In the thousand years since, entire trees have grown up and literally merged with the buildings. Here a tree, has actually grown on top of one of the buildings.
	Our guide Mr Han and I pictured next too one of the tree’s The trees were Banyan, Kapok and Fig. The roots in the background, illustrate the sheer size of the tree’s.
A picture of the main temple, with the reflection showing on the small lake in front. Our guide Mr Han, was excellent, and knew all the best places for Photographs, and how to avoid crowds.
	One of the most famous scenes of the At Prohm. Exploring a city lost in the jungle, one off the most amazing experiences of my life.
We later went to see an Artisan centre. where deaf people are taught to make natural crafts. The people in the country are desperately poor, and we bought as many presents as we could afford.

Angkor Wat, lost city in the jungle (1/2).

24th February 200424th February 2016 admin Angkor Wat 1 Leave a comment

	The Angkor Wat, is a bit like the Temple bar in Dublin. There is a district called the Temple bar, and an actual pub in the district called Temple bar. The area of Angkor Wat, is 400 square kilometres. We visited the temple of Bante srey, much smaller than the temple of Angkor Wat, but has a moat.
Angkor Wat, literally means “City that is a temple”. A base reflex of the white monkey army. We later saw the ancient folktale acted out by Dancers.
	Some of the buildings inside the temple.
The outer wall of the temple from inside. As beautiful as the temple was, we were told not to venture beyond this wall, as the outside had not been cleared for mines. I was surprised to hear that towards the end of the war, temples like this, had actually been mined by the authorities to protect them from Thieves.
	A base reflex of Shiva – the destroyer. She destroyed the world, then it was re-created. She is actually quite a positive figure in Hinduism, as she symbolises removing bad things, replacing bad habits etc. (a kind of ancient Hindu Anthony Robbins).
As we drove back, we visited some villagers, who lived in a hut at the side of the road. They make their living boiling up the juice from cocoanuts and making a sort of sugar substitute, which can earn them up to 10 dollars a day. This is the ladder they use to climb the tree’s. Its a hard life. Statistically, off all the people doing this, that fall out of tree’s only 2% survive.
	This is the hut they work in (there was another hut further back from the road which they share with their 4 children), out of the sun. It has a kind of clay Yukon stove, with a sort of large wok on top, to boil up the juice. The sugar is distributed in containers woven from grass (we bought 10 dollars worth, and told them to take a day off).
On our way back to lunch, we visit Pre Rup. A really tall temple, with a large staircase.
	A view from the top, shows the majestic steps bellow it.
Sarah and I have lunch at the amazingly authentic foreign correspondent club. The food was excellent and we were made to feel like real international travellers.
	A picture of the Angkor Wat, the largest temple on earth, taken from across the moat which surrounds it.
We enter the Wat, through the east gate. There are 3 gates into Angkor Wat, designed for Elephants.
	A base reflex from the eastern wall, which has only recently been decoded.
A picture of the main temple, with the reflection showing on the small lake in front. Our guide Mr Han, was excellent, and knew all the best places for Photographs, and how to avoid crowds.
	I climbed to the very top of the temple. The angle of the stairs, was nearly 70 degree’s, so a head for heights was needed. There was a euphoric feeling when stood in the central temple at the top.
Sarah and I photographed in front of one of the base reflex’s This sculpture is more than 1000 years old.
	In a different time, this empty pool would have been filled with worshippers swimming and bathing.
Sarah relaxes next to the outer wall, as we make our way out of the front entrance. Our guide had taken us in the side way, around the back and out through the front, which he advised was the quietest way to see it.
	A view from the entrance, down the walkway, and out across the moat bridge.
Angkor Wat from the front. The handrails on the walkway, are carved from stone and more than 1000 years old.
	In the evening, we visit the APSARA Restaurant-Theatre, enjoy delicious Cambodian food and watch traditional theatre. We sat on the cushions on the floor, and ate from low tables. As we arrived, I rolled up my jacket and placed it under the table. I didn’t realise, there was a 1 metre deep trench underneath the table, for the comfort of westerners. I had to climb under the table, and into the hole to retrieve my Jacket !. There were many short performances, and then a multi scene story called The Reamker. In this picture, are Neang Seda and Preah Ream (who are lovers). In the background are Reap and hanuman.
The traditional legend, is that Reap kidnaps Neang Seda and Preah Ream goes out to find and rescue her. He is assisted by Hanuman, white monkey and general of the monkey army. Together, they kill the fearsome Reap and return Neang Seda to Safety. The small characters in green, are the soldiers of the monkey army.

Hanoi. Vietnam capital and resting place of Ho Chi Minh.

24th February 200424th February 2016 admin Hanoi Leave a comment

	Sarah and I arrive on the 2nd leg of our South East Asia tour, at Noi Bai airport, in Hanoi. We are picked up by our guide and driver, and head across the red river, towards the city. As we arrive in the evening, we stop on the way to enjoy a superb 8 course Vietnamese dinner. I found Hanoi to be both modest and charming. Here Sarah and I pose outside the Mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh.
Next day, we set of, on a tour of the city. The Quoc pagoda sits on an island in the West Lake. Supposedly founded 1,400 years ago by King Ly Nam De (the famous warrior of Sword restored fame), it was virtually impossible to photograph in one shot.
	A garden near the Quan Thanh temple.
Sarah and I, photographed next to the Hoan Kiem Lake (the lake of the sword restored).
	Our guide showed us this fascinating arga. Its possible to buy money for the dead (its costs about a fifth of the cost of normally money. You then burn the money in the arga, for the people you want to pray for. I asked if people burned money, for Ho Chi Minh. The reply was in the present tense “Uncle Ho is a simple man, he does not need money.”
The actual bridge of the lake of the sword restored. An Arthurian-type legend is associated with this lake. It’s about a sword provided by a golden turtle from the lake, in the 15 century and which was used in battles against Chinese invaders. The sword was later returned to the lake (hence the name sword restored).
	Its still possible to see turtles in the lake (although we didn’t see any unfortunately). In the middle of the lake is a small island with a structure on it, which was previously the symbol of Hanoi.
Later we had a cyclo tour of the old quarter. Although it was an interesting experience, I would have preferred to walk around, as they only go at 2 miles an hour.
	One of the many streets in Chinatown.
A traditional Vietnamese house. The bottom story, normally acts as a shop front, with the occupants living in the back of the shop. They are very narrow, long, and built high. At one time, houses were taxed on their width, hence why some of them are only 7 feet wide. the length of the house also creates a larger, cooler shaded interior.
	The Mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh. Although it had a very “comedy Soviet” feel, it was imperative to remain respectful. He had originally asked to be cremated, and his ashes scattered over the highest mountains in the North, South and Centre of Vietnam. It is located on the spot in Ba Dihn square, when on September 2nd 1945, Ho Chi Minh read the declaration of independence, which he never lived to see.
The Presidential Palace. When the French left Vietnam in 1954, Ho Chi Minh declined the offer to live there, preferring to live in a small cottage in the Palace grounds. The venue was instead used for meeting visiting dignitaries and school children.
	In 1958 he moved to his house on stilts, next to a small lake, given to him as a birthday gift. His house is exactly as it was, when he died. There were very few possessions, aside from a simple bed and desk.
There were banners around naming Ho Chi Minh, as the: “Father of the modern state” and: “Liberator of the Vietnamese people”.
	One of his favourite pastimes was feeding the fish in the lake beside his house. We stood on the steps, but armed guards “discouraged” us from feeding them ourselves.
The single Pillared Pagoda. It was originally built in the 11th century to look like a lotus flower, floating on the water. Tragically, like many of the things we saw, it had been destroyed by the French and been rebuilt.
	We passed this statue as we walked to the puppet theatre. It showed 3 figures, and said something like “Its okay to give your life in the war for independence.” Basically, people carrying explosives could run towards tanks, and destroy them, but obviously, they would die also. Since there were more people willing to die than tanks, the tanks lost battlefield superiority, and became redundant.
The Thang Long water puppet theatre. The artists stand waist deep in water, and operate the puppets from behind a bamboo curtain. They have demonstrated their art as guests in over 40 countries. Its essential to read the program. Although impressive to watch, its practically impossible to tell what’s going on.
	The Temple of literature, oldest university in Vietnam. The modern symbol of Hanoi. The previous symbol, had been the building on the Island of Hoan Kiem Lake.
Inside, there was a beautiful wooden staircase, reminiscent of Trinity College library in Dublin. Again tragically, like the single pillared pagoda, it was destroyed by the French before leaving, and rebuilt after 1954.
	Some barbers had set up shop, next to the outer wall of the Temple. I think that simple scenes like this, are as much a part of travelling, as visiting famous bridges and eating local food.