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Capetown and the Garden Route. Finale of the Bluelist (1/3).

31st March 200431st March 2016 admin Capetown 1 Leave a comment

	2002 was a very difficult time in my life. I had lost everything and was forced to sleep on the floor while I saved up to buy a bed. The advantage to this, was I had plenty of free time, which I used to plan my goals once life improved. Significant in this, was a bluelist. Taken from the Lonely Planet book of the same name. It means roughly a list of things to do and see before you die. In 2009 with only one significant goal left out of nearly 3000. To stand on Table mountain. Having already visited 56 countries, I pick up my rucksack and head for Capetown.
I arrive at midnight, after flying with the excellent KLM. Going through customs, I have a funny thought. Next time I have a passport photo taken, I will take it at 4am in the morning, so my picture reflects how I actually look when I get of a long haul flight. Its an organised tour, so I’m picked up and arrive at the Sweet Orange guesthouse 40 minutes later. I’m shown to my beautiful room, which will be my home for the next 3 nights. Wasn’t sure whether to lock my widows, so discussed security with the owner. Its very safe here he replies. Pressed further on the matter he replies. I was mugged once and I saw 2 vicious pub brawls. Oh, he interposes sarcastically, that was when I was at the Leeds University in your country !. A quick shower, a bottle of beer from the honesty box, I update my diary and then drift off to sleep.
	The trip formally started at 2pm, so I used the free time to read, update some things on my Acer netbook, check my gear etc. The usual meet up. The group and leader arrive (a big bear of a man). The usual meet up. Hand over insurance documents, nok details and in country payment. We are all introduced to each other. Ten minutes to get ready, and were off to Table mountain. I learn that the mountain is closed frequently due to weather. It was decided we would get the cable car up, and walk down (if your at the bottom and they close it, you cant go up, but if your already on the top, they can’t stop you walking down). The cable car (sponsored rather ostentatiously by Barclaycard) normally rotates to give 360% views of the mountain. When the driver pulled the lever, nothing happened. After a few minutes, he said simply its not working today.
And there I was, standing on the top of Table Mountain, the culmination of 6 years pursuit of adventure. Following an uncompromising life of adventure, has its costs, but at that moment, I felt that they had all been worth it. I looked around the souvenir shop, but just couldn’t find anything to really capture the moment. I text Amelia, Danny and Brenda with this photo. What can I say. I didn’t really feel euphoric, I just felt a sort of relief and subdued satisfaction.
	In a reflective mood, I wandered around the mountain top. Here you can see the famous Lions head and Lions rump. Many Capetonians walk up the Lions head, each morning before work. I found somewhere quiet, sat quietly and read excerpts from Power of the Sword, the Wilbur Smith novel that takes place on Table mountain and had inspired this visit, 20 years previously. Since the bluelist was now technically complete, I could get on with enjoying my holiday.
I got to know some of my fellow travelers, as we walked back down the platteklip gorge. Our guide Charl taught me some Afrikaans, with emphasis on pronunciation. Windhoek for example is pronounced Vindhook. I had read that crime was common while on the mountain. Another example of the paranoia myth attached to Capetown (the only people we met on the path were other walkers, and some local actors dressed as tribesmen !). Standard precautions re theft and personal safety, were all that were needed throughout the trip. Signs everywhere, say that you shouldn’t pick flowers (there are more species of plant and flower on Table Mountain than there are in the whole of the UK). A particular type of the Blue Dasai, grows only on table mountain. I took one, and have it sealed in a key ring at home. Symbolic of completing the bluelist, its priceless to me.
	In a reflective mood, we walk back to the hotel and get cleaned up. In the evening, we head out to the VA waterfront with its vibrant atmosphere and friendly bars. I’m delighted when the group choose to visit a steak house (strangely named Red Cod). I have to be careful with my budget, but decide that after the events of the day, a meal fit for a king, is appropriate. Mushroom soup to start, an enormous steak for main, a bottle of South African Red and coffee for after’s (I don’t usually eat cake). Including a tip and some money for the opera singers who serenaded us during our meal, there was change from £20. A long but massively rewarding day over, I head back to the hotel. Just before bed, I update my blog with news of the days achievement.
Next day, up early, for a breakfast. Served on one big table in the middle of the room. I try Yoghurt pancakes and my usual travel staple of buttered crusty bread and coffee. Today we are driving around False bay and our first stop is Seal Island. A different boat sets off every half hour. Bellow decks, they have a glass bottom, to watch the fish. Although mostly financed by tourism, its still a working fishing port, and there were stalls around selling all kinds of exotic fish (which were obviously dead).
	Although I succumb to sea sickness, there really is no pleasure like sitting on a boat being rocked by the ocean. We sail around this hill, called the Sentinel (a prominent site from Chapman’s peak drive).
As we round the bend, we get our first glimpse of Seal Island. Not so much an Island as a rock, it was packed to the rafters with seals. I expected some of them to swim over for food thrown from the boat, but they barely looked up.
	We tell it how it really is here at johnsunter.com The startled girl in the picture, has reason for concern. The street lamp behind, had just been knocked over by her husband/boyfriend, who was screaming and shouting (obviously blaming her, for not spotting it first). She seemed to find it hilarious and as I walked past, and it was all I could do not to start laughing.
We continue along Chapman’s peak drive and see some of the spectacular views around false bay. You can see why the Garden Route, is so popular as a fly/drive destination.
	We visit Simons Town, which takes its name from Simon Van der Stel, the Dutch Governor of the Cape colony from 1677 to 1699. My first sights are the famous mile of Victorian houses, including this excellent backpacker hostel. Despite its heritage, the area has a very modern port. Everyone else goes for lunch. Realising I have an hour free, I head of in search of adventure. In Jubilee square, is the statue of one of the towns most famous residents. Just Nuisance, was the only dog to be officially enlisted in the Royal Navy. Beloved by his fellow sailors, he frequently traveled into Capetown on the train, to go drinking with his shipmates. In 1944, at the end of his life, he was buried with full military honours.
My first stop is the Simon’s Town museum. Run by volunteers, they even had the original collar belonging to, just nuisance. In one room, a reconstruction of the Africa Station club. A very popular Pub with Naval staff, it sadly closed down, but has been completely re-created (except that they don’t have a license, and you couldn’t actually get a drink here 🙂
	My next stop, is the South African Naval Museum. They had all the stuff you’d expect in here, like uniforms and old photographs. They also had full size helicopters and a life size ships bridge. South African divers are some of the best in the world, and there were lots of diving exhibits. After an informative, whistle stop tour of both museums, I grab some fish and chips (freshly caught that morning, you don’t get that in Manchester :).
Just a few minutes around the corner is Boulders Beach, home to a colony of African penguins. One of the must-see sights of the Garden Route, the surreal experience, is penguins (which you normally associate with Arctic weather conditions) on a baking hot beach. The other interesting thing is there is no record of penguins living here before 1985, and nobody seems to know why they settled here.
	There are 2 boarded walks, that lead along through the trees to the viewing point (in times gone by, you could walk around on the beach with the penguins, but hundreds of thousands of people come to see them each year so its no longer practical).
The Penguins sometimes rest in the shade, and for the winter months have these simple shelters made of half a plastic bottle. While walking around, I popped in the tourist shops, and bought a souvenir key ring (I remember reading a quote by the head of tourism, while in Nepal. “don’t donate money to charities, just come here, go out to eat, drink and buy souvenirs”.)
	This photo shows one of the viewing platforms, taken from the other. You can see just how popular it is. I really enjoyed being here, but after about 40 minutes, I had seen all the penguins, I ever wanted to.
Next stop, Cape Point, on the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve. After table mountain, it was the place I really wanted to see. Many people mistakenly think that this is the most Southerly point in Africa. It isn’t, that’s Cape Agulhas, about 90 miles away.
	A common phrase used to encourage plane speaking in SA, is “you can’t swim the 2 oceans”. This comes from the meeting of the Indian Ocean and the Atlantic, which happens around this area. There is no specific place where this happens, it varies between Cape point and Cape Agulhas. This causes unpredictable tides and currents, which is why Thousands of ships have sunk around this area in the last 100 years. It was a beautiful day and the views across the beaches were fantastic.
I headed straight up the hill, to the old lighthouse. Its no longer used, and as you can see from this picture, has a “Blackpool tower” feel to it.
	We take the cliff route to the actual Cape of Good Hope. I caught up with some of the girls in the group, and off we went. The walk was boarded, so secure under foot, but howling coastal winds blew up sand, and I had to protect my eyes. I stopped at one point to enjoy the view. The cliffs I was standing on, were 800 feet above the ocean, it really was breathtaking. As I looked down onto the bays, I saw a group playing cricket.
At the end of the cliffs, the path drops down. The area is known for its Fynbos vegetation, and there were loads of harmless, friendly animals, running around.
	At the bottom and I get to stand at the Cape of Good Hope. It had special significance for me. I remember being 13 and a PE teacher, was teaching us geography in a most uninspiring way. Typically, he used me to make an example, made me stand up and shouted at me in front of the whole class. I remember the humiliation when he told me I was scruffy and I would never “go anywhere”. The lesson was about famous Portuguese explorer Vasco de Gama setting up a spice trading route around the Cape of Good hope in 1497. If by any coincidence, your reading this Mr Blease, formerly of Moston Brook High School, I’ve actually been there. Have you ?

Tour of Egypt and Jordan – The Red Sea.

31st March 200431st March 2016 admin Red Sea, Uncategorised Leave a comment

	Next stop on the Pyramids to Petra trip, was the coastal resort of Dahab. It was very popular with scuba divers, and a superb place to relax. You can see from this picture, just how beautiful it was.
After checking into our room, we wonder up and down the sea front ( a thriving town), buy a couple of souvenirs and check the place out. There was even a curry house !.
	We find a Sea front restaurant, and get a couple of drinks. An interesting anomaly, was wherever we went in Dahab, and asked for an alcoholic drink, there was a delay of about 10 minutes. Turns out that an alcohol license is so expensive, that only one shop in the whole town has one, and all the other shops just send someone out to buy the beer as needed.
I am not much of a pool/beach sort of person, but the relaxing atmosphere was so addictive that I got the “bug” but one some shorts (Rohan obviously) and jumped in the pool. In the background, you can see the balcony’s of our once again excellent hotel.
	The hotel were trying to recruit a member of staff. I think the spelling mistake, indicates just how much this person was needed. Joking aside, it left me with all sorts of questions about quality of life mix. Would I be as happy with no Cisco/Sandbox trusts in my life, just typing emails and answering the phone by the Ocean. I decided that I like the mix of adventure, and the normal life that I have. If I lean to far, in either direction, will I topple over (did I really say that, get me a bucket !).
In the evening, our guide took us to another superb restaurant. We sat on rugs, at low tables. During the whole trip, I couldn’t fault the food at all, the guide always seemed to be delighted, when I asked if they sold beer, and found consistently that he had taken us to a no alcohol restaurant. I started to wonder if he was doing it deliberately, but decided that a couple of hours away from the Ale, wasn’t doing me any harm.
	The following day, a camel ride into the desert, and some snorkeling had been arranged. I had already ridden a Camel on three continents, and have a deep hatred of snorkeling. I decided to stay behind, and have a day on my own. I had a superb lie in (on adventure trips, you are nearly always on the go, and it was nice just to get up when I wanted, just for one day). wondered up and down the coast, rented a mountain bike for a bit and then spent an hour in a cyber cafe and had a couple of beers.
That day, the room service staff, whilst cleaning/tidying the room (they were were excellent, the rooms were spotless) decided to surprise us, with some improvised sculptures.
	On the second evening, we visit a fish restaurant. The staff at the restaurant were so eager to please, that they took Sue to the front of the restaurant and gave her the pick of their stock.
Our last night in Dahab. Everyone was well fed and watered, and the sound of the ocean lapping against the shore, only a few feet from our restaurant, is one of the memories of that trip that will stay with me.
	Slightly less of a fond memory, was the ferry over to Aqaba. With seemingly endless bureaucracy, we queue ‘d in line, got up, sat down got up again before we finally get to board the ferry.
Never mind, I had some brilliant company 🙂

Tour of India and Nepal – Bhaktapur.

31st March 200431st March 2016 admin Bhaktapur Leave a comment

	We arrive in Bhaktapur “The Ancient city of Asia”. Previously known as Bhatgaon. Bhat means rice and Gaon means Village. Bhaktapur literally means the City of Devotees. The city is shaped like a conch shell, one of the emblems of the god Vishnu, and was founded by King Ananda Deva in 889 A.D. The city was originally created with large walls encircling it. Despite continual invasion and and the natural calamity of 1934 is still rich in arts. Here Angela and the excellent Jane pose at our rooftop cafe overlooking durbar square.
We enter Bhaktapur through the East Gate the famous Lion Gate is far more spectacular but this way, was closer to our Hotel. We had been traveling all day when we arrived, and coming to the end of our 17 day trip. To be honest, I missed a lot of the details due to fatigue, so if anyone reading, spots a mistake give me a shout. On the left of this picture you can see a board with entrance prices. I have met people who complained about this sort of think, saying that it was a working town. Bhaktapur is said to be one of most beautiful places in the world, so I didn’t mind our guide paying £2 to see it.
	We were introduced to our local guide, and he got straight down to business. The Golden Gate is said to be the most beautiful and richly molded specimen of its kind in the entire world. In the words of Percy Brown, an eminent English art critic and historian, the Golden Gate is “the most lovely piece of art in the whole kingdom. It is the entrance to the main courtyard of the palace of 55 windows. To the the right of the gate, you can see scaffolding where the 55 windowed palace, was being repaired, and sadly we couldn’t visit it. A Garuda tops the gate and is shown disposing of a number of serpents. The four headed and 16 armed figure of the goddess Taleju Bhawani is below the Garuda In the top right of the gate, you can see a guard post, where government soldiers prepare for possible “unrest”.
The sacred pool, in side a forecourt of the Royal palace, after passing through the Golden Gate. Nearby was a sacred Hindu shrine. Since Cows are sacred to the Hindu religion, no leather belts or shoes were allowed in here.
	A Newari tall house. The tall houses (3 stories) are built inside the city and ordinary houses up to 2 stories are built outside the Town. The citizens were reorganized according to the caste system on the basis of their jobs. The higher cast lived inside the town and the lower outside. Also, the King wanted sunlight to reach all houses. Therefore houses were built in a zigzag and the taller houses got more of the light.
Durbar square in Bhaktapur. The square is one of the most charming architectural showpieces of the valley as it highlights the ancient arts of Nepal. In the centre of the picture is the Batsala Temple. On the right is the Dattatraya Temple. It is as old as the Palace of 55 windows. Built in 1427 it is said to be constructed from the trunk of a single tree.
	A close up of Batsala Temple. The Temple is built on a square base, all others in Bhaktapur are rectangular. On the right, is the colossal bronze bell, hung by King Ranjit Malla in 1737 and used to sound the daily curfew. The bell known to local residents as the Bell of barking dogs, as they go wild whenever it is rung (the dogs I mean, not the local residents). Nowadays the Bell is chained and locked.
Nyatapola Temple. This five storied pagoda was built by King Bhupatindra Malla in 1702 A.D. It stands on five terraces, on each of which squat a pair of figures: two famous wrestlers, two elephants, two lions, two griffins, and Baghini and Singhini – the tiger and the lion goddesses. Each of the paired guardians is said to be 10 times stronger the the previous pair. The lowest pair the two strong men Jaya Malla and Phatta Malla were reputedly ten times stronger then any other men.
	The Pashupati Temple has struts like these which feature erotic carvings similar to the ones I saw Khajaraho.
Bhairab Nath the distinctive 3 storied Temple. A temple dedicated to Bhairab the dreadful aspect of Shiva. In times gone by, to encourage trade, areas were set aside in the town for traders to sleep. The main square, and area around the buildings were previously used for this purpose. Today, traders ply their wares in the main square, but in the evening, they probably stay in hotels rather than sleeping next to their stalls.
	I couldn’t believe the sheer bulk of food produce that was on sale. Tons upon Tons of rice and vegetables were piles high at street stalls. Made me wonder why we don’t just do that in the UK.
A seemingly endless sight of people carrying heavy good through the streets. I wonder if some of the people I work with, who complain about workload, should be made to do this job for a day !. This wasn’t just down to people being poor, many of the alleyways, didn’t look like a delivery van could fit down them.
	Siddha Pokhari near the main city gate. It was built in the 15th Century during reign of King Yakshya Malla.
As well as a school, the palace of 55 windows also functions as an art gallery. The art gallery of Bhaktapur Durbar Square contains ancient paintings belonging to the Hindu and Buddhist traditions of various periods.
	The typical occupation of the people are Pottery making, weaving and farming which are still practised in the same old manner passed through generations since medieval eras. This picture shows Pottery square, one of the most famous places in Asia. The selection of pottery for sale, would beggar Harrods. Its possible to have custom made pots, and watch it being made in front of you.
That evening there was a demonstration through the Town. Local women were protesting at how they were treated as second class citizens within the Hindu faith.
	As our guide continues his tour, darkness falls. He explained that the original palace had 99 courtyards, but the earthquake of 1934 destroyed most of them, and left only 7 remaining. Chardham is believed to be the great pilgrimage for Hindus. Chardham was in India, but the old king was clever, and actually created one in Bhaktapur.
In an alleyway, our guide shows us this Peacock window. Its a replica of a similar carved wooden windows which features on the Pujari Math. Once a monastery, it now used as a wood carving museum. The Peacock window was a gift from German to celebrate the wedding of the King and Queen in 1973. Its is considered once of the finest examples of wood carving in the world.
	At night, we wander back to our hotel. Once again a power cut had reduced the entire town to darkness. To be honest, I found power cuts quite exciting !. As we got up in the morning, we found that during the previous day, there had been a protest, and some poor fellow had been killed. His funeral was today, and although friendly, there was tension in the air. The large military presence around Bhaktapur changed its appearance. It was still very spiritual but had a sinister undertones. There were so many soldiers around the main temple, that we couldn’t actually photograph it. It was sad to see it this way just before I left.

Tour of India and Nepal – Bandipur and the Old Inn

31st March 200431st March 2016 admin Bandipur Leave a comment

	Just like in India, we saw the “famous parts of the country, and the authentic parts of the country. Bandipur is well off the beaten track, and an authentic Nepalese Village. in the early 19th Century Bandipur developed into prosperous trading centre. In the 1970s, trading fell into a steep decline with the construction of the Kathmandu – Pokhara highway. Half the street was closed, as the main street was being re-tiled.
We would be staying at the old Inn, a building completely renovated by Himalayan Encounters (they hadn’t paid for builders, they had literally built walls, installed showers and everything themselves (even the managing director)). It was the Rose in the Crown of the companies endeavours, and they were rightly proud of it.
	A view from my window showing the forecourt at the back of the building. Our driver and assistant relax with a soft drink after a long days driving.
We put our bag into our rooms, then congregate in this delightful sitting room. Our guide briefs us, explaining that we will have a tour of the town and the nearby Ramkot village and then have dinner in the Old Inn (I was surprised to hear that it was the only restaurant/bar in the whole village).
	The main street with substantial buildings, with neoclassical façades and shuttered windows. This part of the street was paved with beautiful slabs of silverish slate. Our vehicle had to be parked half a mile away, as it couldn’t be driven on the paving.
This street shows houses of Newari architecture.
	Bandipur is located 700m above the Valley floor bellow. The village school nearby, had a football pitch (that sport, seems to get everywhere).
The local Children joined us on our walk and wanted us to tell them about our home.
	This Police station was deserted. It had previously been bombed by Maoist revolutionaries. When they realised they couldn’t defend it, the government forces withdrew from the area, and it was controlled by the Maoist’s.
This post advocated throwing the the King in prison. It had become common, while trekking, to meet Maoists on the trail, who would “Tax” the Sirdur (the lead porter). They always give a receipt, and these have become quite valuable on Ebay. As I was in Nepal, the King had agreed power sharing with the Maoists and they had joined the government.
	Bindyabashini temple, it is only opened for one day a year.
An enthusiastic stonemason working at 7:30pm in the evening. We later met some local villagers, they noticed the picture on my camera and one of them said, that’s my father !.
	This shelter in Bandipur was built by the equivalent of the social services. The idea is that people travelling through the village on rout to somewhere (which in that country can take several days) have somewhere to sleep, off the ground, with excellent rain cover. It was pointed out, that the shelter wasn’t built to be too comfortable, as somebody would adopt it as their house.
As we walked further around the village, we saw this traditional country seen. This man and his son were working together to construct a plough. From my Bushcraft background, I really wanted to talk to him about the design of the plough. Our guide translated. The man said simply, I am busy. Many Magar and Gurung men in the village, serve as Gurkha soldiers.
	This collection of plastic containers and metal pots, was actually a still, and this “rig” provided most of the alcohol for the locals in the village.
Just like in the Chinese Hutongs, most houses don’t have running water, so there is a central bathing area. The Tindhara (meaning 3 taps) washing area on the south-eastern outskirts of the village.
	The medical centre. This was the office, next door, was the ward. I found it strange that the Dr had gone home, and the sick people were left to lie in bed unaccompanied.
It always amazes me, how in developing countries, people manage without playstation’s, or tv or anything like that. In the evenings, they simply hang out and mingle with friends. I saw these children playing with a hoop and stick, a toy which hasn’t been popular in the UK, for more than 50 years.
	In the evening, we sit around this beautiful table, talk, drink, just generally have a fantastic time. Later in the evening, when it got dark, the room was lit by candles on the table.
My room in the morning, with my Rucksack packed and ready to go.
	In the forecourt, there were some steps leading down to a toilet and storeroom. I realised, that by walking down a few steps, you could get a perfect shot of the back of the Old Inn. Its hard to describe, but without this, it would have been impossible to capture the elevation of the building. Everyone else in the group caught onto the idea, so one by one, they all had a go.
We took breakfast each morning at the back of the hotel. I am not normally a big fan of breakfast, but the days on the trip, were long and a good “feed” first thing in the morning, gave you energy for the whole day.
	This woman was a volunteer, and had been teaching at a local school, and staying at the Old Inn.
The staff at the Old Inn waving goodbye (I took this photo from an alternate angle). I have stayed in some amazing hotels, but the warm welcome and the comfortable surroundings of the place, make it stand out in my memory.

Tour of India and Nepal – Agra and the Taj Mahal.

31st March 200431st March 2016 admin Agra, Central Asia, Uncategorised Leave a comment

	Our train arrives at Agra, and we travel by mini-bus to our hotel. Everyone was very tired from the journey, but the excitement of the day, kept everyone awake.
Once again, the standard of the hotel accommodation was superb. I almost felt bad, that I was wearing my scruffy travel clothes, and this chap had gone to such lengths over his attire.
	We had 90 minutes free time, so I unpacked my gear, had a bath, and then an hours sleep. I just had time to update my journal, and then off we went.
Our guide had advised us, that due to the number of tourists that visited Agra, the people there, had become a bit tourist dependent. She advised that we be wary for pushy people. Some of them were a little annoying, and would stand in front of you, but just as Indirah had said, they were never intimidating or threatening. Made me think, of the number of people who avoid this kind of holiday, and go to spain, thinking they will avoid hassle, and then find not only have they missed some of the worlds most beautiful sight’s but they are also press ganged into visiting nightclubs, sometimes with intimidation.
	Due to environment concerns, motor vehicles are not permitted within a certain distance of the Taj. Here my friends Angela and Paul, sit “comfortably” as they are peddled to one of the worlds most beautiful sights.
I found that the correct “driving” technique, was for the driver to stand one the pedals, until the vehicle go moving, and then using stored momentum, simply steer the vehicle to the Tarj. Ironically, I was being propelled, by my own body weight, which in my case, made my “trike” one of the fastest in the pack 🙂
	The gate leading to the Taj Mahal.
Security was, as you can imagine, quite strict around the Taj Mahal. The staff there, though, we very amenable and friendly. Here a security office agree’s to pose for a photo. The bullet proof vest, and heavy calibre assault rifle (no hand gun here) show that he was a force to be reckoned with.
	Accommodation created to house the architects and builders of the Taj Mahal.
First view of the Taj, as we enter the main viewing area.
	As most of you know, my travels argent spontaneous, and they form part of a bluelist (A list of all the places I have ever wanted to visit in my life). That said, not all the places on the bluelist are of equal importance/significance. Sitting in front of the Taj Mahal, is easily in the top ten, of a list of activities which number more than 3000 from around the world.
Inside, this “wallpaper”, was hand carved from marble.
	A photograph of the taj, from a slightly different angle. During my travel photography course, I had been told that every famous place has some “standard views” and that we should try to photograph places from alternate angles.
We travel back, this time in horse and cart.
	You can see from the main on this horse, the speed we were going.
For lunch, our guide organizes a Southern Indian meal. It was made up of different sorts of pastry.
	The internationally famous Agra fort. I had been looking forward to this, and too be honest, I enjoyed it more than the Taj, as there was much more to see and do.
The main walkway into the fort.
	The superb façade of the outside of the fort. The chap in the picture, had stepped over a security barrier, to take a picture (he was taking his life in his hands, as you can see).
View showing the walls/moat. The castle was originally protect by a moat and 2 walls. The moat contained Crocodiles, the wall was 70 feet high, and between the outer and inner wall, there were tigers roaming. I have visited Beaumaris castle in Anglesey, which was said, had it been completed, to be the most strategically secure castle in the world. Having seen the defences at the Agra fort, I wonder how that could be possible.
	From one of the walkways around the fort, a “window” gives us a view of the Taj Mahal.
The pool in the centre, was originally filled with water.
	The Harem.
One of the baboons that live at the fort.
	In the morning, the Indian equivalent of bean’s on toast. A very spicy bean casserole, combined with traditional bread.
Throughout the trip, it wasn’t hard to see how India is becoming the economic powerhouse of the region. At the railway station, was this bookshop, which contained a wealth of motivational, management and business books, for people to buy and read on the train.

My first trip to Africa – Kenya.

31st March 200431st March 2016 admin Africa, Kenya Leave a comment

	My auntie goes into a bookshop in Manchester and asks what book they recomend for a lad about to turn 21.They recomend Wilbur Smith. I really wanted a book about Bruce Lee, or something like that, but I read it anyway and really enjoyed it.Over the months and years that followed I had all 20 + books by Wilbur on the shelf in my bedroom and I was hooked. I especialy liked the parts about Africa and seeing real Elephants and Lions. When I got a chance to go to Kenya and see the real thing, there was no question what I’d do…
The first 5 days we were on Safari.We stayed in superb quality hotels in the East and West Savo hills, and the Treetops resort.Each day we went out on Safari, at around 7am in the Morning around 6pm in the evening. In the morning, it was colder than I expected.
	Our first sighting of the day.A Bull Elephant next to a watering hole.
Living near Chester, and I can see elephants any time I please, its just that they are in a Zoo, and these fine animals were in their natural environment.
	The vehicle we travelled in, had a retractable roof, so we could pop our heads out of the top, to get a better view of the animals (and still stay safe.)
There were other vehicles around.Our guide was quite good, and once a few other vehicles arrived, he would move us on, to avoid spoiling the experience.
	We stayed in the treetops hotel on our first night.Me standing on the Hotel Balcony during daylight.
The bar overlooked a water hole, where Elephants would congregate beneath us.
	A superb picture of a Lion crossing the road, just in front of us.I was using an AFP camera at the time, had used all the film, and it was auto rewinding just at that moment.I just managed to get some more film in it, and take this shot, before it passed out of sight.
A Giraffe, was impossible to photograph close up from the van, so I had to take this picture from a distance.
	Some Zebra congregating at the side of the road.
A fairly rare picture of an Ostrich in its natural environment.
	In the West Savo hills, Sitting by the pool, with a bottle of beer.
But this isn’t any normal poolside, it has this view of the valley bellow.Hundreds of wild animals bellow congregating for water.
	After a while, some Baboons came along.I thought they were basically harmless, but somebody asked the wait to remove them.I couldn’t believe it, when he hit one of the Baboons hard with a steel drink tray.
On the other side of the hotel, were some steps down the inside of the hill, leading to a hide where elephants could be view taking water, at last light.
	During one of our Safari’s we visit underwater hide where you could see Alligators and Hippo’s.Unfortunately, there weren’t any around.
The only silly part of the trip was this tree, located about 30 meters from the bar.Each night a dead chicken was hung from the Tree, and we were promised a chance to see Leopard.One silly sod, actually sat up all night, hoping to see one. In the morning, our guide explained that that close to loud drunk people, it would be more likely to encounter aliens than a Leopard.
	Our guide took us to visit a maasai village where the warriors wore traditional dress.Maasai warriors are surprising, as they are quit lanky and thin.This is made up for by their courage. To become a man at 14 a maasai warrior must stand the charge of a Lion without showing fear.
The outside of a maasai hut, made of sticks.
	The sticks are then covered in mud, which dry’s in the afternoon heat.I cooking fire is placed near the door, the smoke keeps insects away.
Our Maasai guides make fire from friction.
	At the end of our 5 day Safari, we spend 10 days in the Turtle bay beach resort.It is rated as one of the best 10 beaches in the world.
The lads at the bar, became firm friends (especially after they carried me to bed following a daft evening of Vodka and Sprite).
	A morning excursion, took us to a nearby village ruin.These types of trees were used in olden times to make masts for ships.
The village ruin.The guide spent 2 hours showing us around it, and all the rooms and vaults.The original inhabitants of the village were killed and the village left deserted. I’ve ended the section with this picture. Although I’ve visited lots of others, this marks the first time I’d visited an ancient city in person.

30th March 200430th March 2016 admin Sinai Leave a comment

	We drive through the tunnel, underneath the Suez Canal.
I took this picture to try and capture the sheer expanse of the desert, on both sides of the road.
	One of the things I had read about, and was really looking forward to seeing. Viewed from the road, ships appear to sail across the desert (this was illustrated in a famous scene in Laurence of Arabia). It was a long way away, and in the process of shooting, I managed to get this tractor in the picture as well. Slightly annoying.
We stop off next to the ocean and have the option of swimming. Ever the adventurer spot a cave, and make straight for it.
	The cave was very cool and dark. With my head torch, I spent half an hour exploring it (some sections of it could only be reached by climbing through a hole 2 feet in diameter). Me sporting the “C&A man” pose I perfected in Orchha.
Looking out of the cave, towards the ocean.
	As we continue on our journey, we stop to visit this old cemetery.
I investigate this empty stone building. It really was a superb construction, and very cool inside.
	Our splendid hotel at St Catherine’s. There didn’t seem to be any other guests staying. In the afternoon, we relaxed around the pool.
Philipa’s mum had given her a bag of mini eggs, so that we could celebrate Easter Sunday.
	We went out for the evening, and had some excellent food (it cost practically nothing) and then popped back to a nearby hotel, to enjoy the bar.
Mount Sinai in the daytime, the place where God gave the 10 commandments to Moses. I took this Photograph in the daytime, but the plan was to set off really early in the morning, and watch the sunrise.
	As we set off in the early morning, we briefly stop and have a drink (there were several places along the way selling drinks, blankets, sleeping bags etc). The walk wasn’t actually as hard as I thought it would be, but I was still exhausted.
There is no actual peak to mount Sinai, but this is me, standing at the top.
	On a rock quite far out, one particular piece jutted up. The adrenaline Junkie Philipa decides to climb it. Problem was, she didn’t tell me that her camera used film, so I blasted off dozens of shots, not realizing I was using up all the film.
Aud had bought Ralph a water colour set for Christmas and he spent some time painting the view from the peak. Although I have never been interested in art, I felt a little sad at that moment, as I realized I would never be able to capture that mountain view myself, with anything other than a camera.
	As we walked back down, some of the rock formations, really were stunning. I couldn’t help thinking that it would have been better (and quieter) to have walked up in the daylight.
You can see how the light hits these rocks. I am really pleased with this picture, it superbly framed by the rock walls on either side.
	My friend Yuko, on the descent from Sinai, standing next to the “emergency” clinic (actually, I presume its some kind of emergency meet up point, as apart from the stone, there isn’t anything else there !).
The outer wall of St Catherine’s Monastery, the oldest inhabited Monastery in the world. Its said to be the site of the burning bush, and tragically, was closed on the Easter Sunday, when we were there.

Tour of Egypt and Jordan with the Adventure Company – Cairo.

30th March 200430th March 2016 admin Cairo Leave a comment

	I had only been back from India/Nepal 10 days, when I set off, once again,with the Adventure Company on a Pyramids to Petra Trip.With both the Pyramids and the Ancient City of Petra on the blue list, it made perfect sense, with loads of great stuff to do in between.The classic “Three Pyramids” shot in Giza.
I arrived at midnight. Things weren’t great, the airline had left my back behind, and I would have to manage for 24 hours, with just my day sack and the clothes I stood in (not ideal, considering I was wearing a fleece jumper).The good news, was I met up with a really nice couple called Audrey and Ralph. The tour didn’t start properly until following day, so we decided to wander around and see the City.This Beatles shop reminded me of home.
	A saw this “God of Kebabs” as we walked around.Ralph and I gave this guy a bit of money, for allowing us to photograph him.
The following day, the tour begins, with a visit to the Egyptian Museum.It was quite superb, and really captured the ambiance of the old museum in Raiders of the Lost Ark.Unfortunately, camera’s were banned, so I don’t have any pictures. My favourite artifact was King Tuts gold mask. I also saw the substitute Rosetta Stone (made of plastic) donated by the British Museum (I have since visited London and seen the original). After this, we travelled to Giza, to see the Pyramids. I think this picture captures its sheer size.
	I found the only way I could capture the majesty, was from one of the corners (this is a picture of Aud and Ralph).I had been told, that when you visit the Pyramids, you would be constantly bothered by people trying to sell various things.Our guide, had arranged some “outriders” to intercept them, and we were able to enjoy the experience without interruption. I had also heard that when you drive from Cairo to the Pyramids, you travel in an armed convoy, this didn’t happen either, just an air conditioned mini-bus. I walked around the base of this Pyramid, it was a special moment.
One of the smaller Pyramids, dedicated to the Pharos wives.
	I considered getting a shot of me on a Camel, in front of one of the pyramids, but decided against.I have ridden Camels on 3 continents, and although functional, I find it very comfortable.
Our guide was able to advise on all the best shots.This classic of the Sphinx, in front of one of the pyramid of Khafre.It was said at the time, that the beard of the Sphinx is stored in the British Museum (I couldn’t find it).
	Inside a structure near the Sphinx.Couldn’t find out anywhere what it was actually called, main thing I remember is a little boy trying to overcharge me for a can of coke.I took the opportunity, to teach him some of the Newton Heath dialect from my homeland, which I had learned in my youth !. This had the desired effect, and he returned my money.
The actual Sphinx itself, taken from a nearby rampart.It was much smaller than I had expected it to be (which was interesting, as the Pyramids were much larger than I had expected them to be !).
	In the evening, our guide takes us to one of the large riverboats, docked on the side of the Nile.The food was excellent, and the atmosphere of sitting next to the Nile really made the experience.Many people had told me that Cairo was an awful City, dirty and full of Nasty people. I didn’t find that at all, and I have visited far worse cities described as Jewels of there location (Prague is one that springs to mind).
As we left the restaurant, these fine ladies were preparing and baking bread.They were happy to be photographed, and when I handed them a small amount of money (I had after all, stopped them from working, so I thought it was right to give them something) they seemed delighted with the transaction.
	This is the picture of two of the telephone cubicles in our hotel.This picture serves no useful purpose, except that in the film Moonraker, James Bond is having a meeting with somebody.The person is summoned to a telephone call, and then killed in a cubicle like that. When I saw them I immediately thought of that scene, and that’s why they are photographed here.
As we returned from our evening out, I was disappointed to find that the bar was closed.Most of the other people on the trip, fancied a nightcap, but what were we to do. When I spoke to the hotel Manager, he indicated that I might want to talk to the hotel porter.The porter simply told me that I would need a room of my own to host a “party” (which I had). He asked how many cans I wanted, told me the price for the cans, his fee, and the cost of a taxi. The deal was struck, and the cans were delivered to my room. One of the girls on the trip had a set of speakers for her mobile phone, and we all had a pretty cool 2 hour party. These are some of the leftover cans, the morning after.

Visitging the city of dreams – Dubai.

30th March 200430th March 2016 admin Dubai, Middle East Leave a comment

	I had heard many exciting things about Dubai. Since our flight home passed there, we decided on a 2 day visit. We were collected from the airport at 5:30am. It was nearing the end of our 3 week trip, so we were exhausted.
After a few hours rest, we headed into the city to explore. As we drive down the main highway into the city, the sun is in the sky and music is belting out of the stereo. The Winter temperature of between 14 and 28 was very agreeable considering how cold it would be back home.
	The famous Dubai creek, which separates both sides of the city. Its here that the dhows, travel from across the Arabian sea, moor up, next to the creek, and trade goods. The goods are then sold at the market next to the Creek (in times gone by, they were spices, but now, they are more likely to be colour televisions).
We charter a dhow, and travel across the creek. As I take my seat I’m overtaken by the moment. Arabian Sailors have travelled vast oceans in boats like these, long before the birth of Christ.
	We pass some of the larger trading ships on the Creek. Dubai’s historic roots, make its present day status all the more interesting. The country is only the size of Essex. It had, No school until the 1950’s, No electricity until the 1960’s, and its first hotel was built in the 1970’s. The education system has certainly caught up. Our hosts son went to school in Dubai, and had learned English there. He spoke English, the way a concert pianist plays the Piano, it was a delight to hear.
Once we reach the other side of the Creek, we disembark, and wander around the old town, visiting some of remaining few traditional Souk’s (Markets). Here we wander around the spice Souk. Everybody says Dubai is expensive (pints of lager in an ordinary pub are £5-£10) but a trip back across the Creek, on a public dhow, cost only 30p. Today, 1.2% of Dubai residents are dollar millionaires and among its many accolades the most elaborate hotel in the world, the tallest building and a ski-slope in the desert !
	We head off exploring again, and pass the Burj Al Arab, the only 7 star hotel in the world. Located on a man made Island and at 300m high, the tallest hotel in the world. It features entire floor size suites, each with its own reception and full compliment of servants. Taking security to extremes, they actually have a tactical force (like a swat team) which you can hire. They also sell the famous Coffee from CSI, made in Japan, it sells for £90 per lb.
Further on, we pass the Knowledge Village, and Internet City, entire building complexes housing some of the largest technology companies in the world. We have lunch in the Mariner. Tens of thousands of new properties are being built in the area, as it is estimated that 10 million Europeans will live in Dubai by 2010. This doesn’t surprise me, its spotlessly clean, and secure – a lone woman can walk around safely, at nearly any time of the day or night.
	A bit hard see from this picture, but this is the palm Island resort, taken from the Mariner. It’s man made, and from the sky looks like a palm tree. The idea, is that the Palm Tree shape, provides a much larger waterfront area, than a normal “round” island. To illustrate the lengths the designers are going to, planes are actually being sunk around here, so people who enjoy diving as a hobby have something to explore. The next idea is the world island project, which involves hundreds of man made islands, in the shape of each country. Once you own the island, you can build whatever you want on it.
While we were there, the famous ski slope in the desert project , had been completed. It’s located above The Mall of the Emirates shopping centre, so the cooling equipment for the snow, also air conditioned the building bellow. Like so many other places in the world, someone had put lamp post’s everywhere around the building
	Once inside, it was spectacular to see. It has 5 different slopes for different levels of skiing proficiency and snow boarding. The longest run, is 400m, with a 60m fall. Dubai’s next project is a restaurant, completely underwater, that can only be reached by submarine !.
We visit the site of the Burj Dubai tower (since I was there, It’s been completed and renamed the Burj Khalifi tower). When completed in 2008, it will be the tallest building in the world at 800 meters (just 5 meters shy of half a mile) Nearly 300 meters taller than the present tallest floored building in the world, the Taipei Tower in Taiwan. But in Dubai, how long will it be the tallest in the world ? Its design is a bit like several towers, fastened together, in order to make it wind tolerant.
	On our first evening, we go out on Safari across the Arabian Desert. Our driver was impeccably mannered and very professional. We were joined by an Australian couple and their son.
We go Dune bashing in our 4 x 4 Toyota land cruiser. Our driver was expertly trained, and could stop the vehicle, on a dune with a heavy gradient , then just as it started to slide, engage the transmission and move off at breathtaking speed. Embarrassingly, I was the only person in our Vehicle to be “separated from his lunch”, when we parked up to watch the sunset.
	The sunset was a bit of a disappointment, as there was little sun to see !. I thought the desert looked beautiful anyway.
We visit a traditional Bedouin camp. Camel traders try to (politely) part us from our money. The bargaining skills of Arabs, are well known, but we decline the offer of a camel ride.
	We sit down to enjoy our evening barbecue in the desert, on Majalis (low cushions). Later, we are entertained by Mariana, a belly dancer, with significant skill. We were asked to join her, but my dancing isn’t good enough for wedding celebrations in the UK, and certainly no match for a professional dancer.
Our last evening in Dubai, and have dinner at Trader Vicks. Its located in the Madinat Jumeirah hotel, which is modelled on an Arabian town, complete with market. This hotel, has a man made lake, and many of the suites on their own small island, which can be reached only by boat.

Trip to Koh Samui, off the coast of Thailand.

30th March 200430th March 2016 admin Koh Samui Leave a comment

	Thailand was a place I had heard rave reviews about. It was the first time I was going to visit a non western country and I was looking forward to seeing the culture there. As it was, the months previous to this had been extremely stressful and my x wife recommended going straight to an island and relaxing.
We found a nice beach resort, and had our own hut. I spent much of the time relaxing on the chair outside the hut reading (I have never been a great fan of swimming, so didn’t often venture to the pool) Here in my sandals, T-shirt and shorts I sit reading enterprise .com by Jeffrey Papows, the designer/inventor of Lotus Notes.
	When I arrived at the airport, there were a number of signs saying smile country. What I quickly realised, is that the Thai’s are just about the happiest and friendliest people on the plant. This chap ran the bar, with a girl called “A” (I am not joking she was literally called A) In the 10 days I was there, I never saw either of them frowning !.
As mentioned elsewhere, I had always wanted to see real elephants in there natural habitat. This elephant was helping a farmer move logs.
	Another first for me, was to visit the Jungle. It was on 300 metres from a road, but it felt like a jungle to me !
Nearby, another elephant was walking through my “jungle”, which completed the scene.
	We decided to go walking, and visit Koh Samui most famous landmark, The Big Buddha. The map we were using was not to scale and instead of the mile and a half walk we thought it would be, it was about 8 miles in stifling heat !.
Me in the forecourt next to the Buddha. The Big Buddha is 15 meters tall was built in 1972 and located near the northern shore of Koh Samui.
	In the main village of Bo Phut, there were a number of nice restaurants and bars to relax in. After having a 20oz Steak for only £2, I decided to walk along the docks next to the village.
We decided to go on a boat trip to the nearby Angthong National Marine Park. We got of the boat, and walked up a hill, which gave a great view off the whole park.
	Sitting on a boat, drinking bear is something I could get used to doing. I could see how this area was featured in the film, The Beach, with Leonardo DeCaprio.