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Tour of India and Nepal – Kathmandu.

31st March 200431st March 2016 admin Kathmandu, Uncategorised Leave a comment

	We finally arrive at Kathmandu, a place I felt like I had waited all my life to see.When I got there, it was a bustling city, and reminded me of the dirtier parts of Manchester on a sunny day. Anyway I was here now, and wanted to make the most of it. Our first trip was Bouddhnath 6km to the east of Kathmandu. A colossal and ancient stupa (Buddhist temple) and one of the biggest in the world and stands 36m high. Like many of the things I had seen on this trip, it was a world heritage site. It took its name, meaning dew drops, from a legend that when built dew was mixed with mortar, as there was a drought.
Around the stupa were many smaller temples like this one. Outside a pilgrimage of American Buddhists arrived by coach.Sadly, in a major tourist attraction like this, scams are inevitable: A man dressed as a monk, was praying, some people gave him money, then we realised, that he wasn’t actually a monk at all. A woman approached us. We thought she was begging, so declined. She said that she didn’t want money, just asked us if we would buy milk for her baby. It was hard to refuse. We found in reality, the woman, and the shopkeeper were in cahoots. The milk was massively overpriced and when we’d gone they would have split the money.
	Nearby we went to see how authentic Thangka (Buddhist) painting was done.Some of them were very beautiful, but I had already purchased a picture from a Thali village I was fond of, and the prices here were very expensive. In the centre bottom of this page, is the newest Thangka design, created personally by the Dalhi Lama. They have trained more than 300 artists here.
Similar to the burning Ghats I had seen in Varanasi.The dead were brought here, to be ritually burned, this was normally done by the eldest son.
	Swayambunath was another Stupa that we visited.The pilgrim’s route to the Swayambunath Stupa is a steep stone staircase of more than 300 steps, often claimed as 365. At the base of the staircase is a large, brightly painted gateway. Inside was a massive prayer wheel nearly 12 feet tall that requires two hands to turn. Filled with thousands of prayers, this wheel strikes a bell each time it makes a complete revolution (perhaps just to make sure someone up there is listening). Be sure to give it a spin before beginning the climb to the top of the hill.
On the way up, I saw some of the monkeys that live here.I was advised to beware, as they carry disease, and can be aggressive. I found that to be good tempered.
	From the top, there are spectacular views of Kathmandu.The earliest record of its existence dates from a 5th-century stone inscription. Scholars and archaeologists believe that there was probably a shrine here as far back as 2,000 years ago. There were dozens of Buddhist prayer wheels built into the wall around the stupa.
We enter the internationally renowned Durbar Square (this would have been a bit more significant, if we hadn’t visited a Durbar Square in Bhaktapur, the day before).In reality Durbar Square means Palace complex, and isn’t an unusual name at all. Getting back on track, sitting in Durbar Square, drinking coffee and watching the world go by is one of the things I have always wanted to do. At one point, the civil police stopped us and asked to see our tickets. Many of the streets here, don’t actually have an names, which can be confusing.
	In scorching heat, this chap carries this enormous heavy load.
It is believed that the name of Kathmandu City is derived from the name of this temple. Kastha means wood and Mandap means pavilion.We had lunch at rooftop restaurant overlooking the square. One of the popular temples of Durbar Square, Kashamandap is known locally as Maru Sattal. It is said to be built by single Sal tree.
	Rather unusual looking postbox.We saw the outside walls of the Royal Palace, but it was closed. There had been a protest the day before, and people had been shot.
Kumari Ghar is the temple of Kumari – the living Goddess. Kumari is believed to be the bodily incarnation of the goddess Taleju.The current Royal Kumari, Preeti Shakya, was installed in 2001 at the age of four. Both Hindus and Buddhists equally venerate her. The Goddesses social calendar must have been busy on the day we were there, as we weren’t granted an audience from her balcony. There is a square inside the temple, which some of the most amazing carvings I have ever seen and the building is simply majestic.
	A statue of Bhairab.It shows Shiva in his most fearsome form. He has six arms, carries weapons and a body, has a headdress of skulls, and tramples a corpse.
That evening, we have our goodbye dinner. It was sad, I had made some really good friends, and I had soaked up so much of the culture that surrounded me, that I wasn’t sure how I would manage back home.We would be flying home the following evening, so it was our last night out together. Our guide took is to a superb authentic restaurant, where several dancing birds and yetti’s performed for us. It was uncomfortable sitting on the floor, but after plenty of beers I hardly noticed.
	On the last day of our trip, we have a private flight around the Himalayas and and Mount Everest.
Although I am an eternal optimist, I know that I will never climb to the top of Everest.As I sat there, I know it was the closest I would ever get to the summit, which was both euphoric and sad at the same time.
	Most unusually we were invited one at a time, to go into the cockpit.I got to look out of the front window, talk to the captain and co-pilot and be shown what the controls do (although they wouldn’t let me touch them).
The Summit of mount everest.The rest of the day, I just wandered around Kathmandu and killed time until our flight home. A few of my friends, asked me why I was so quiet (if you know me, its noticeable when I shut up). After seeing the Summit of Everest with my own eyes, I didn’t feel much like chatting.
	One of the many shops, selling outdoor equipment.Interestingly, many of the items, are made of material from the same supplier as the actual goods and produced by people who have previously worked in an official factory. You can usually only tell the difference by the finishing and the quality of the stitching. Still, if like me, you think most modern outdoor gear is overpriced and over engineered, it produces a superb alternative.
Overall, I was a bit disappointed with Kathmandu. I imagined it as some sort of simple mountaineering town, when in reality it was like walking around a very warm liverpool.You can see from this picture, how busy the backpacker district (where thankfully, we didn’t stay) was.
	A must see for me, was the Fire and Ice restaurant, said to make the best Pizza’s in Asia.Alan Hinks was interviewed after completing the Challenge 8000 (there are 14 mountains above 8000 metres, at this altitude, the human body cannot acclimatise) more human beings have stood on the moon than the top of all these mountains. Run by an Italian Lady, who has the parmesan made in Lhasa.

Morocco 08 (2/2).

31st March 200431st March 2016 admin Morocco 08 2, Uncategorised Leave a comment

	In the morning, we assemble outside the Burber house with a sense of excitement. We’ve seen loads of cool things up to this point, but were in the mountains now, living with mountain people (and a donkey, which we couldn’t get to stay quiet). We set off, and on route, our guide gives a talk on village life. We visit a mountain village. A “proper” village must have a mosque, a school and a cemetery. All tombs in the cemetery face east. If husband dies, the wife must go to the cemetery for 4 months. If wife dies, husband can look for a wife straight away. It was explained, a wife is unlikely to find another husband if she is over 40.
We arrive at our destination. Were here to explore the famous Blue Rocks. The terrain was amazing…
	But I thought that painting the rocks blue was a bit absurd.
Our cooks headed out in advance of us, to lay out lunch. They picked a superb spot, and it was all ready when we returned from our walk.
	Freshly prepared food eaten in the desert. It was one of the most relaxing meals I can remember.
We all wander off and explore some more. You can see from this picture, the vastness of the landscape.
	We head home and spend another night in the Burber house, high in the mountains. In the morning we congregate outside again.
The Souk or market is the main meeting place for communication etc. Word spreads fast in these local community’s. If someone buys say a large amount of meat, there will be discussion of whether there is a wedding imminent, or a baby on the way. If there is a wedding , mothers from both sides of the marriage knock on each door and invite friends and relatives to the wedding. The invitation will always be before the Souk, and the wedding always after.
	In the afternoon, we visit an old style Burber house. You can see from this picture, all the other houses in the area.
The building had a hollowed out light well and contained lots of authentic pots and cooking implements.
	As we continue on our journey to Essaouira we stop of at Agadir. As I wander around, I realise is basically a holiday resort. I was also propositioned by a prostitute. We sit down next to the ocean in search of refreshments. For the first time since leaving England, we actually get to drink lager by the pint.
Our final destination on the trip is Essaouira No vehicles were allowed in this charming town. Like normal, the AC had picked a venue off the beaten track that was a hidden gem.
	We have a quick wander around the harbour. There were amazing sounds and colours (this isn’t a tourist trap, its a working fishing port).
Apparently this fort inspired Jimmi Hendrix to write castles made of Sand (sean has pointed out, its track 1, side 2 of the album Axis: bold as love).
	Al, Tony and I continue to explore. I thought we made quite a good team, I really enjoyed their company.
The main square in Essauira The hotel on the right of the picture has a rooftop nightclub, and it was here that we had our “leaving do” for Chris, and where various musicians attempted to romance, the lovely Segun In the daytime, like the rest of Essauira, it really was magnificent to see, with the sunshine and the sea air.
	Tone had had problems with antibiotics (the “problems” being that he couldn’t drink). Luckily, towards the end of the trip, he was back on the ale and the 3 of us, along with assorted stragglers were able to embark on an evening of debauchery once again !.
During one of the evenings, I was this picture in our hotel foyer. They had various paintings (done by local artists, they were for sale). I took a shine to this particular one. It was supposed to be the little girl, walking down the dark alley to follow a friendly ghost. I interpreted it to mean that she should follow the future representation of herself, and the life she could have. The hotel owner told us that the alley in the picture was quite near the hotel and while exploring we would almost certainly find it. The next day, as we wandered around, we found it.
	We have our evening meal at a restaurant on the beach. The following morning, after breakfast on the terrace, we walk out of the town. Essaouira is a very special place, I know ill go back there.
On the way back to Marrakech, we visit a workers co-operative run by widowed or divorced women.
	Back in Marrakech, Al and I do some more exploring. He helped me to find Hotel Ali, a legend among backpackers.
150md for posing with snake charmers ! I’m usually happy to pay a small fee for photographs but this seemed excessive, so I took the picture secretly on principle.
	Just about the only “proper” pub in the Medina.
Inside it looked and felt like the social club in Get Carter. That said, they were very friendly and Alistair, Tony and I had some pretty cool times in there. The Flag beer was expensive (about 2 quid for a 3rd of a pint).
	With the official part of the tour complete, I had a day to myself. I wandered around the Royal palace. A guard came out, told me I couldn’t take pictures and demanded to see my camera, in case I had taken any already. Otherwise, it was a pretty quiet day.
The thing I loved about the place was its authenticity. Ordinary people just sat down and ate their evening meal here.
	Something I’ve always wanted to do. Have dinner overlooking the Medina. It was very difficult to photograph, but here it is.

Morocco 08 (1/2).

31st March 200431st March 2016 admin Morocco 08 1, Uncategorised Leave a comment

	I’d visited Morocco previously, and spent some time sleeping out in the desert. I wanted to see a bit more of the culture and people and since the adventure company were running a trip there, I thought why not.
Due to flight times, I arrived a day before everyone else, so I was able to settle in (the hotel was just across the road from the Medina). For lunch I had a steak sandwich with chips in the hotels restaurant. There were 2 waitresses there. One was very efficient and the other was very friendly I couldn’t decide which one I liked the most. From my balcony, I saw this porter, having a nap in his own trolley.
	In the afternoon I went out exploring. I decided to wander around the Medina. I had been told to beware of people who would give directions, and then demand money as a guiding fee. Because of this, I got lost and ended up walking around for 2 hours before I found my way out. In the evening, I wandered around the outer wall of the Medina. I stop along the way, to read my guidebook, and find that Bread is so valuable to the Burbers, that people say a short prayer before removing it from the road, if its been dropped.
I walked into the main square. As the guidebook said, the place literally comes alive at night. I had seen it featured on several cookery programs, it is the only market in the world listed as a world heritage site. I had some fresh orange juice while I was there.
	Casablanca is the financial capital of Morocco, and unfortunately, the film Casablanca was shot completely in Hollywood. In the morning, the tour starts promptly at 9:30, straight after breakfast. As usual, our guide is a consummate professional and gives us a 40 minute talk about Morocco, what things to look out for, and what things to watch out for. Apparently, one of the new defunct Italian lera coins is the same size as a quite valuable Moroccan coin.
One thing I love about the adventure company trips, are there ability to find the best local experts. Our main guide (on the left) introduces us to the chap in the centre, who gives us an extensive tour of the Medina. Here, we stop in a Riad. Travellers would bring there wares long distances then put camels and things in the main square before settling into accommodation around the high balcony’s above. It was impossible to properly photograph the Riad, without using a helicopter or fireman’s ladder.
	As well as a thriving tourist area, the Medina is actually a functioning market. Most of the traders are grouped together and linked, so the slipper makers are quite near the leather sellers for example. I’ve previously been taught how to sharpen knives, on a bushcraft course. It amazed me, to see several people who actually did this for a living. Around the Medina are dye, felt, leather and metal workers. In this picture, we pass the stall of the only remaining felt maker in the Medina.
We were told that most people would like to be paid, if you wanted to photograph them (seemed fair to me, as there were some fantastic photo opportunity’s). These leather workers didn’t want any money to be photographed. Not the best picture I’ve ever taken, but it shows some at work, watching dvd’s on a colour tv. This is the reality I suppose. We imagine them to be poor, but they have been trading for thousands of years. Although simple people, they are probably far more enterprising than most would think.
	We visit the mosque, right in the centre of the Medina. It was a calming and relaxing place to rest, and an oasis amidst the hustle and bustle of the Medina outside. Our guide was explaining some of the principles of Islam. All the things in the mosque are mathematical in origin, like arches and patterns. There are no actual symbols like cows or water or anything like that. The idea was that a person connection with God should be spiritual, and any pictures or carvings would become the focus, rather than the actual connection. He also explained the 5 principles of Islam, and one surprise to me, was that a pilgrimage to Mecca costs around 35,000md.
The food market. This was where the locals, actually came to buy food. We buy some things for a picnic, then hit the road. We set off for Alt Ben Hadou, I end up sitting in the front of the bus. At one point an “unruly” tractor nearly causes an accident, and I accidentally teach the driver some bad English words.
	We stop on the way to eat our packed lunch, than drive through the mountains for several hours. Our guide gives us a talk on the Moroccan family law, which defines ages at which people can get married and stuff like that. We arrived at Alt Ben Hadou in the dark, so I couldn’t see much of the place. Interestingly, the water that supplies the hotel, comes from a sea spring. I had a shower, but as it was salt water, it was impossible to get it to lather up. We had a delicious evening meal, washed down with a few cans of beer and a glass of wine. It was cold at night, since the area is high up in the mountains, but I had enough blankets, so I was fine. In the morning, we eat breakfast on the terrace, with this spectacular view of the old town. 84 family’s live outside the actual village, in the place I’m standing and only 5 live physically in the village (there are rules about only cooking on wood fires and stuff like that, for those that choose to live there).
We cross the shallow river and I see this archway. Our guide explains that this is a fairly recent addition. Loads of films have been made here, and this Gate was constructed for Jewel of the Nile (if you haven’t seen it, its the one where they “drive” an F16 out of the fort and shoot the doors away with missiles).
	Its fairly well know that the are was used in the film Gladiator. Our guide holds up a picture, showing the arena that was erected just outside the Kasbah for filming.
The buildings are being constantly repaired and re-built and here you can see some clay bricks drying in the sun. Bricks made from Clay and straw have been used since the beginning of time and are mentioned in the bible.
	Some builders working to repair the fort. I have always believed, that people in the world, aren’t that different (for example, while in London, watching loads of people walking to work, in comparison, wandering around Marrakech first thing in the morning, the expressions on the faces of the people, didn’t look that different. On the bottom left of this photo, you can see the kettle, builders around the world, are especially alike !.
Inside the Kasbah, its right out of Tomb Raider.
	Tony poses overlooking the valley. I told a few of my friends, about the trick I had learned on my travel photography course. If you really want a picture taken right, and you want to be in it, you stand with the person you want to take the picture and guide a 3rd person to stand where your going to stand. This results in a near perfect picture, every time.
It’s said that in Morocco, nothing happens without Tea. We are invited for some tea, and to see how traditional carpets are made. The carpet shop owners wife shows us how they are actually made (the weaving frame belonged to her grandmother). Women wear tattoos to show if they are married, how many children they have etc.
	Wedding rugs are unique to the Burbers and not general across Morocco. Our guide explains, that once a marriage is arranged, the bride will start to make a rug. Symbols on the rug, will reflect how she wishes to live (whether she wants more freedom, or more protection, how many children she would like to have etc).
Delicious chicken for lunch, and then we hit the road, once again. The whole while I was in Morocco, it was pretty rare to find beer and when I did it was very expensive. I saw this garage at the side of the road, advertising cold beer, and I couldn’t believe my look. Our driver just carried on without stopping. As I saw the building from the other side, I noticed that all the cars were of 70’s American manufacture. Our guide explained, that it wasn’t actually a working garage, and that it had been used as a set for the film, The hills have eyes, and was never taken down.
	I had read about the famous tree climbing goats. I really couldn’t believe what I was seeing.
Our next stop is Tardount, sometimes called little Marrakech, as it has a wall around it. We wander around the streets during the evening (Sagun comes back with a new handbag, which doesn’t surprise anyone). The locals drove around on mopeds, with a gay abandon, which at times I found terrifying. After a delicious evening meal of Beef Kofti, a few of us chat, and the remainder play cards, especially purchased for the occasion. I was chatting to Don and he bet me his wife Sue would almost certainly win. She was Australian, and had grown up in a place called Calagory, where they didn’t have tv, until the 80’s.In the morning we sit together in the hotel for breakfast, drink coffee and eat french bread with butter (the French really don’t know how lucky they are to eat like that every day).
	After the best nights sleep of the trip, we pop down for breakfast and enjoy coffee, with french bread and real butter (the French just don’t realise how lucky they are). We then head of to a tannery, where we see how animal skins are prepared. I had done this sort of thing on Bushcraft courses before, and found the factory atmosphere, a bit un-inspiring. Many of the other people were practically sick.
In Taradount’s history, there was a rebellion, during which, the Berbers backed the wrong side. As a result they were completely wiped out. Today they have returned, and usually wear blue. Our guide was also wearing blue that day, but said it was of no significance, he just liked those clothes. He explained how men would bring food with them to work and then “hire” a tajine to cook it from. At lunchtime they would come back, the food would be cooked, and they would tuck in. To avoid confusion, people put tomatoes, forks etc on top of their Tajine, to mark it.
	As we continued our tour of the market, we purchased some food for a packed lunch (we would be eating in the mountains for lunch again. I grabbed some flat bread for emergency’s (I always had some in my day sack, in case I got hungry) and then found some “proper” French bread and cheese. Delicious. This is one of my favourite photographs on all of my trips. The colours in the spice souk were amazing. We split into 2 groups, and while exploring with Alistair, a guy said our friends had gone to the oil house. They said that to everyone, the oil house seemed to be a very lucrative “attraction”.
That evening, we would be starting out 2 night stay in the Burber house. We set out for buy some wine for the evening. We found a bar and had a can of flag (the local brew) while we were waiting. The inside of the bar would have made an adequate lavatory back in the UK.
	At this point we are met by our 3 land rovers, and head for our next destination along mountain roads. At one point we stop and get a chance to walk along the pass. This a picture of some of the cliffs that flanked each side of the road. We stop for refreshments before heading to the Burber house we will share for the next 2 days. In the background is the famous Tete Du Lion, or the lion faced mountain.
Back in the Landrover, feels like adventure again. Took turns on seats in the land rover. There was plenty of room, and considering how much time we spent on the road, this was appreciated by everyone. The track up to the Burber house was very uneven, so we had to get out of the land rovers. It gave an opportunity to take this pretty smart picture.
	Initial confusion in the Burber house, as there are 3 rooms, and people are moving back and forward with bags like on a school trip. I debate sleeping on the roof, but decide to stay indoors (in the end, I am in the minority). In the evening, I give a brief (for me !) talk on travel equipment, which seems well received.
Our drivers, cooks and porters, all worked to different schedules. As we sat down to eat our evening meal, we could hear singing comming from the kitchen. Two of our crew were good friends who hadn’t met up in a while. One produced a violin, and the other a water container as an improvised drum. It really was a lesson for me, to see these simple people with nothing, improvising entertainment and having a whale of a time. Back home in my country, many youngsters without a playstation consider themselves poverty stricken, and they could learn a lesson from these 2.

Tour of Egypt and Jordan – Petra

31st March 200431st March 2016 admin Petra, Uncategorised Leave a comment

	We arrive at Wadi Moussa, the nearest town to Petra. The trip had been exciting to this point, but this was different. Years before, my friend Yvonne, had returned from a trip around the world (in those days, I wasn’t at all inspired by travel, but I was excited for her). I had met her in a cafe in Glasgow, and she had shown me some of the pictures from her trip. One photo, was of the Treasury in Petra. It had left a mark on me, for nearly 20 years and the following day, I would finally get to see it. The hotel we stayed in, had the ubiquitous “Irish” bar, but although anything but authentic, it was actually quite a nice pub. In the picture are Ben, Nicola and Sue, who I got on with really well.
The tourist shops near the entrance, draw heavily on the fact that the treasury was used in the film Raiders of the Lost Ark. It was voted as one of the new seven wonders, and 800 of its monuments are listed is Unesco world heritage sites. Petra gets its title “The Red Rose City” from a poem by John William Burgon. The last 2 lines are “Match me such a marvel save in eastern clime, A Red Rose City half as old as time“. Problem is, when he wrote the poem, he hadn’t actually been to Petra, 16 years later, having seen it, he wrote to his sister commenting “There is nothing rosy about Petra, by any means”.
	Horses are used to drive carriages into the city (I cant imagine why anyone wouldn’t want to walk into it, and savour the experience, but up to them.) There is an animal sanctuary nearby, where these horses are looked after once retired. The long-hidden site was revealed to the Western world by the Swiss explorer Johann Ludwig Burckhardt in 1812. The City is 2000 years old, built by the Nabateans, it has also been occupied by The ancient Romans and the Bedouin. The eastern entrance leads steeply down through a dark and narrow gorge (in places only 3–4 meters wide) called the Siq (the shaft), a natural geological feature formed from a deep split in the sandstone rocks and serving as a waterway flowing into Wadi Moussa.
Along the sides of the Siq, are these channels, which at one time provided running water, and also a “safety valve” during flash flooding. It used to be covered, but long ago ancient floods washed away the cover stones. Excavations have shown it was the ability of the Nabataean’s to control the water supply that led to the rise of the desert city, in effect creating an artificial oasis. Archaeological evidence demonstrates the Nabataeans controlled these floods by the use of dams, cisterns and water conduits. Thus, stored water could be employed even during prolonged periods of drought.
	In this picture, you can see just how high, the walls of the Siq go (the bottom of the picture starts at about 50 meters).
At the end of the narrow gorge stands Petra’s most elaborate ruin, Al Khazneh (“the Treasury”) hewn directly out of the sandstone cliff. For the fascinating details of how it was restored, click here. The Treasury’s original purpose remains elusive – except that it was not a Treasury. Some scholars believe it was a royal tomb, with the king’s burial place in the small chamber at the back; others, a temple, pointing to its temple-like façade and the lack of burial holes – for them the rear chamber was the sanctuary, complete with ritual ablution basin. Little has changed the Treasury since the Hon. Charles Irby and Mr. James Mangles, commanders in the British Royal Navy, described their first sight of it in 1818. “We do not know with what to compare this scene”, they added; “perhaps there is nothing in the world that resembles it”.
	The Obelisk Tomb and Bab al Siq, Petra. It takes its name from the four Indian Obelisks along the top.
The locals, didn’t waste any resource. Here, a carved out room, was used to “house” a donkey, temporarily not needed to pull carts down through the Siq. In times gone by, a Bedouin family would have lived here.
	This child was wandering around, giving out Euro coins. We worked out, that he actually wanted them changed into some kind of usable currency. We exchanged them for Dollars, in return for allowing us to Photograph him.
Some of the souvenirs, were a bit sublime (one shop was selling used, dead batteries). I was intoxicated by the moment, and ended up spending more than £100 on presents and souvenirs (I was so happy to be there, I didn’t even bother negotiating). One thing I quite liked (couldn’t work out how to get it home) was this miniature Bedouin tent.
	The amphitheatre has actually been cut into the hillside and into several of the tombs during its construction. Rectangular gaps in the seating are still visible. Almost enclosing it on three sides are rose coloured mountain walls, divided into groups by deep fissures, and lined with knobs cut from the rock in the form of towers. Theatre, which was constructed in the early 1st century AD by Nabataeans and enlarged and improved by the Romans shortly after their annexation of the Kingdom in 106 AD. This they did by ruthlessly gouging away a street of houses or tombs in order to extend the rear of the auditorium, which could then accommodate 3000 people.
Elsewhere in the City, was this Byzantine Church. The floor had been re-constructed to show how it would have originally looked.
	For some reason, I look like I am missing one of my teeth in this picture. I am not. While travelling in Jordan, I had been reading “Married to a Bedouin”, the story of Marguerite van Geldermalsen, who visited the city while travelling (There was no internet or stuff like that, seeing the world in 1978 wouldn’t have been easy), married and fell in love with a souvenir seller, and lived with him in a 2000 year old cave. As I wandered around Petra I could here a distinct New Zealand accent, coming from one of the locals. I was delighted to meet Marguerite’s son Raami, who still carried on his fathers business (Mohamed, sadly died in 2003). There is a photo in the book, of a young Raami, in a red high chair, his father constructed. The first thing I said to him was “you’ve met the Queen” ((I knew from the book that Queen of Elisabeth II and Queen Noor visited Petra in 1984). I knew it was really him, as he replied yes, but I was asleep. We had a friendly chat, and he talked about his parents (it was a rare occasion, where I shut my mouth and let someone else speak !). I gave the space pen I had carried around the world to him, and asked him to give it to his mother. I told him that she was an inspiration to me.
Although there are no longer any permanent residents in Petra (which explain the restaurant and modern toilet facilities in this picture), you can still see the cave where Marguerite lived with her family. Its in the middle of the picture, slightly to the left.
	Urn Tomb. You can see how the caves were carved, one above the other, in places 4 stories high. The Urn Tomb was probably constructed around 70 AD. It is preceded by a deep courtyard with colonnades on two sides. High up in the facade there are 3 niches which lead on to small burial chambers. Their inaccessibility would have made them relatively safe from tomb robbers. Inside there is a massive single chamber which may originally have served as a triclinium for funerary banquets, but which was adapted in 446 AD to serve as a Byzantine church, the vaults of which can still be seen below the tombs.
Front of the palace tomb.
	Inside the palace tomb, was this enormous room. How long must it have taken to chisel all of this sandstone out, and how, with primitive technology and tools, did they get the walls so straight.
2000 years of high winds have eroded Petra’s sandstone, to create this effect. This is a classic Petra “hole in the wall” shot, featuring my friend Gill.
	We go to the Basin restaurant for lunch. Long before the residents were moved from Petra, the Basin, was the only Hotel in the area, and was featured extensively in Married to a Bedouin. The Petra museum was right near here. Okay it was interesting, but I couldn’t help wondering what the point was, when you are actually in Petra. Perhaps a Petra museum in Manchester would be more appropriate :).
We head up to the Monastery. Sue poses next to the striking rock, with a view back down to Petra behind.
	This Bedul girl was selling souvenirs, and was preparing some Tea for herself on an open fire. As I have said before, it always inspires me, when I see people using Bushcraft, which to me is a hobby, and to them, just a normal part of daily life. The Bedul are a small tribe of Bedouin who used to live in the caves in Petra until 1985. They farmed in the area and had their goats graze there before being expelled and re-housed in the village of Oum Seyhoun on the edge of the archaeological park. Now most of them make a living from tourism, renting horses or selling trinkets.
As we walked up the hill, we pass through this naturally occurring “doorway”.
	The Monastery. Petra’s largest monument, dates from the first century BC and was dedicated to Obodas I. The monument is known locally as Ad-Deir, and like the Treasury, probably wasn’t a Monastery. To get an idea of its size, the doorway, is 8 meters high.
An enterprising entrepreneur, has converted the cave opposite into a cafe (the Monastery is 200 meters above Petra, and nearly an hours walk from the Basin restaurant).
	To the North of the Monastery, is this plato, with astounding views of Petra and the mountains around.
Having spent the day in Petra, we are given free time. I spend the next 2 hours, walking slowly back to the hotel. The danger in situations like this, is that the expectation of seeing something might be greater than the reality (I’m thinking of Kathmandu and Prague) but this wasn’t the case. Was it worth the 20 year wait ?. Most definitely.
	Petra was not surprisingly, the last destination on the Pyramids to Petra tour. By now my reputation had got around the group, and as a farewell, I was invited to pose in front of this cabinet with several different beer cans in it (the significance was not lost on me). When I arrived back in London, Ralph and Aud gave me a lift, all the way back to Liverpool, which saved me about 8 hours of the day, and I would just like to say thanks.

Tour of Egypt and Jordan – The Wadi Rum.

31st March 200431st March 2016 admin Uncategorised, Wadi Rum Leave a comment

	The seven pillars of wisdom at the entrance to the Wadi Rum.
The visitor centre at the entrance to Wadi Rum (Wadi Rum is 60km form Aqaba). I bought some souvenirs here, with the help of the excellent Philipa.
	We drive deep into the desert. Our local guides and drivers, are the direct descendents of the people who fought with Laurence of Arabia. The popularity of the area, has spread wealth to some extent, and mobile phones and expensive 4×4’s are not uncommon. That said, although 90% of the Bedouin own houses in the towns, they still prefer to sleep in the desert. There is no doubting, that this Jeep is authentic.
I had expected that we would be roughing it in the desert, but I should have know the Adventure Company better. The tented accommodation, out in the desert, was pretty elaborate. As you can see, this tent has a comfortable bed with clean sheets. I slept soundly all night in here.
	We get the fire lit early. An open fire in the middle of the desert plato, is a difficult scene to capture or describe.
One of the great monoliths, out in the desert.
	We sit out in our Bedouin tent, our guide Aladdin, teaches us to play cards (I had purchased some cards at Dahab with different kinds of fish on them, so I donated them to the enterprise). Obviously most people visiting Wadi Rum want to spend the night in a “Bedouin tent”. I think nearly everybody realises that these tents are not the authentic homes of the Bedouin, but are erected for the tourists. It is nevertheless a special experience to sleep out in the desert.
Later in the evening, a few of us congregate around the (now much smaller) fire.
	We go deeper into the desert our “Indi” Jeep.
The colour of the rock is amazing. I spend a little time relaxing and enjoying the ambience. It was fairly cool in the morning, hence, I am wearing my Fleece.
	Up to the right, near this green bush, is the famous Laurence spring, Named after T E Laurence, aka Laurence of Arabia.
We wander around some truly amazing rock formations, the like of which I have never seen, anywhere else in the world. Sadly I didn’t get to see any rock bridges, they were couple of hours away by drive, and ours was the short tour.
	Our next stop, Khazali Canyon.
This 100m long Canyon, is very thin, but with the light beaming in from above, is pretty exciting to explore.
	One of the Nabatean rock paintings, drawn inside the Canyon.
As I leave the canyon, I see a Bedouin, selling souvenirs at the entrance. A party of school children, were on a trip to the Wadi Rum, and they had left their quilts and sleeping gear with him, while they explored the Canyon. He sold the souvenirs, from a sort of living room sideboard and one thing that occurred to me, was how he got it there ?.
	Wadi Um Ishrin. There are truly enormous Sand Dunes around here. Everybody decided to have a race up one of them. Having done a desert survival course, I know it takes 3 footsteps to cover 1 normal step, when climbing sand uphill so I stay at the bottom and take photo’s.
After only an afternoon/evening and a day, we left the Wadi Rum. There is so much more I would have liked to do there, but I am determined to go back. As we leave, we see these Camels, living wild in the desert.

Tour of Egypt and Jordan – The Red Sea.

31st March 200431st March 2016 admin Red Sea, Uncategorised Leave a comment

	Next stop on the Pyramids to Petra trip, was the coastal resort of Dahab. It was very popular with scuba divers, and a superb place to relax. You can see from this picture, just how beautiful it was.
After checking into our room, we wonder up and down the sea front ( a thriving town), buy a couple of souvenirs and check the place out. There was even a curry house !.
	We find a Sea front restaurant, and get a couple of drinks. An interesting anomaly, was wherever we went in Dahab, and asked for an alcoholic drink, there was a delay of about 10 minutes. Turns out that an alcohol license is so expensive, that only one shop in the whole town has one, and all the other shops just send someone out to buy the beer as needed.
I am not much of a pool/beach sort of person, but the relaxing atmosphere was so addictive that I got the “bug” but one some shorts (Rohan obviously) and jumped in the pool. In the background, you can see the balcony’s of our once again excellent hotel.
	The hotel were trying to recruit a member of staff. I think the spelling mistake, indicates just how much this person was needed. Joking aside, it left me with all sorts of questions about quality of life mix. Would I be as happy with no Cisco/Sandbox trusts in my life, just typing emails and answering the phone by the Ocean. I decided that I like the mix of adventure, and the normal life that I have. If I lean to far, in either direction, will I topple over (did I really say that, get me a bucket !).
In the evening, our guide took us to another superb restaurant. We sat on rugs, at low tables. During the whole trip, I couldn’t fault the food at all, the guide always seemed to be delighted, when I asked if they sold beer, and found consistently that he had taken us to a no alcohol restaurant. I started to wonder if he was doing it deliberately, but decided that a couple of hours away from the Ale, wasn’t doing me any harm.
	The following day, a camel ride into the desert, and some snorkeling had been arranged. I had already ridden a Camel on three continents, and have a deep hatred of snorkeling. I decided to stay behind, and have a day on my own. I had a superb lie in (on adventure trips, you are nearly always on the go, and it was nice just to get up when I wanted, just for one day). wondered up and down the coast, rented a mountain bike for a bit and then spent an hour in a cyber cafe and had a couple of beers.
That day, the room service staff, whilst cleaning/tidying the room (they were were excellent, the rooms were spotless) decided to surprise us, with some improvised sculptures.
	On the second evening, we visit a fish restaurant. The staff at the restaurant were so eager to please, that they took Sue to the front of the restaurant and gave her the pick of their stock.
Our last night in Dahab. Everyone was well fed and watered, and the sound of the ocean lapping against the shore, only a few feet from our restaurant, is one of the memories of that trip that will stay with me.
	Slightly less of a fond memory, was the ferry over to Aqaba. With seemingly endless bureaucracy, we queue ‘d in line, got up, sat down got up again before we finally get to board the ferry.
Never mind, I had some brilliant company 🙂

Tour of India and Nepal – Agra and the Taj Mahal.

31st March 200431st March 2016 admin Agra, Central Asia, Uncategorised Leave a comment

	Our train arrives at Agra, and we travel by mini-bus to our hotel. Everyone was very tired from the journey, but the excitement of the day, kept everyone awake.
Once again, the standard of the hotel accommodation was superb. I almost felt bad, that I was wearing my scruffy travel clothes, and this chap had gone to such lengths over his attire.
	We had 90 minutes free time, so I unpacked my gear, had a bath, and then an hours sleep. I just had time to update my journal, and then off we went.
Our guide had advised us, that due to the number of tourists that visited Agra, the people there, had become a bit tourist dependent. She advised that we be wary for pushy people. Some of them were a little annoying, and would stand in front of you, but just as Indirah had said, they were never intimidating or threatening. Made me think, of the number of people who avoid this kind of holiday, and go to spain, thinking they will avoid hassle, and then find not only have they missed some of the worlds most beautiful sight’s but they are also press ganged into visiting nightclubs, sometimes with intimidation.
	Due to environment concerns, motor vehicles are not permitted within a certain distance of the Taj. Here my friends Angela and Paul, sit “comfortably” as they are peddled to one of the worlds most beautiful sights.
I found that the correct “driving” technique, was for the driver to stand one the pedals, until the vehicle go moving, and then using stored momentum, simply steer the vehicle to the Tarj. Ironically, I was being propelled, by my own body weight, which in my case, made my “trike” one of the fastest in the pack 🙂
	The gate leading to the Taj Mahal.
Security was, as you can imagine, quite strict around the Taj Mahal. The staff there, though, we very amenable and friendly. Here a security office agree’s to pose for a photo. The bullet proof vest, and heavy calibre assault rifle (no hand gun here) show that he was a force to be reckoned with.
	Accommodation created to house the architects and builders of the Taj Mahal.
First view of the Taj, as we enter the main viewing area.
	As most of you know, my travels argent spontaneous, and they form part of a bluelist (A list of all the places I have ever wanted to visit in my life). That said, not all the places on the bluelist are of equal importance/significance. Sitting in front of the Taj Mahal, is easily in the top ten, of a list of activities which number more than 3000 from around the world.
Inside, this “wallpaper”, was hand carved from marble.
	A photograph of the taj, from a slightly different angle. During my travel photography course, I had been told that every famous place has some “standard views” and that we should try to photograph places from alternate angles.
We travel back, this time in horse and cart.
	You can see from the main on this horse, the speed we were going.
For lunch, our guide organizes a Southern Indian meal. It was made up of different sorts of pastry.
	The internationally famous Agra fort. I had been looking forward to this, and too be honest, I enjoyed it more than the Taj, as there was much more to see and do.
The main walkway into the fort.
	The superb façade of the outside of the fort. The chap in the picture, had stepped over a security barrier, to take a picture (he was taking his life in his hands, as you can see).
View showing the walls/moat. The castle was originally protect by a moat and 2 walls. The moat contained Crocodiles, the wall was 70 feet high, and between the outer and inner wall, there were tigers roaming. I have visited Beaumaris castle in Anglesey, which was said, had it been completed, to be the most strategically secure castle in the world. Having seen the defences at the Agra fort, I wonder how that could be possible.
	From one of the walkways around the fort, a “window” gives us a view of the Taj Mahal.
The pool in the centre, was originally filled with water.
	The Harem.
One of the baboons that live at the fort.
	In the morning, the Indian equivalent of bean’s on toast. A very spicy bean casserole, combined with traditional bread.
Throughout the trip, it wasn’t hard to see how India is becoming the economic powerhouse of the region. At the railway station, was this bookshop, which contained a wealth of motivational, management and business books, for people to buy and read on the train.

Kuala Lumpur and the Petronas towers.

24th February 200424th February 2016 admin Kuala Lumpur, Uncategorised Leave a comment

	A few people I know, had talked about a program on the National Geographic Channel called MegaStructures.I decided to record a couple of episodes and watch them when I wasn’t doing anything. The episode I watched first was about the building of the Petronas towers in Kuala Lumpur. I wont spoil the contents of the program, but suffice to say I was astounded and inspired and I decided I would travel to Kuala Lumpur and stand in front of the Petronas towers. Since I was already doing a trip to Borneo, it made sense to stop off for a day and a half on the way back.
I fly back from Borneo, land at KL airport and then store my large rucksack at the airport (I only needed a day sack, as I was staying in a pretty plush hotel, and during the day would just need something to carry water and a guidebook around in.Its 40km from the Airport to the city, so I jumped on this spotlessly clean and efficient train. I was really looking forward to it. I was sorry to leave the Jungle and the Ocean behind me, but sometimes the city can be just as exciting.
	I get a taxi to my hotel the Crown Princess Kuala Lumpur (booked through Expedia).As I head for my room, I get my first glimpse of the Petronas towers. The Petronas towers are said to symbolise Kuala Lumpur’s self belief and focus, along with its slogan “KL can do it”.
I am a bit tired from my time in the Jungle, and having just got of a plane, I decide the best thing to do, is the 3b’s. Beer, bath and bed (I relax in the bath with a bottle of beer, then get some sleep).While in the bath, I have another quick read of my guidebook. There is no clear protocol on mobile phones and its perfectly normal to hear a phone ringing in the cinema. I had heard before, that a Muslim man can divorce his wife by saying “I divorce you” 3 times. I was astounded to read that Sharia law has extended this to text message. Malaysian law also permits use of the Rattan cane, which civil rights groups are fighting. Kuala Lumpur has a 100% Literacy rate and expects to be a fully developed City like London or New York by 2020.
	I decide to spend the evening relaxing. The hotel featured an Indian restaurant called the Taj. Sounded a bit cheesy to me, but I gave it the benefit of the doubt.In reality, it had won the Malaysian tourist board award for best Indian restaurant, 4 times running. The food was so good, that I ate a main course, than asked for the same 1 a 2nd time !. Along with cold beer and this amazing view, it made for an absolutely fantastic evening. On the ground floor was a Sports bar, with a few Japanese businessmen where I had a quick drink. I surprised myself by spending the rest of the evening in the Piano bar, listening to a singer they had there. Off to bed, loads to do in the morning.
I wake at 7:30am. My bag is already packed for the day and my guidebook has scotch tabs so I can find maps and relevant pages quickly (preparation is key, when your trying to see a place and you don’t have a lot of time).I head for the Petronas towers and see a McDonalds (okay, a lot of people don’t like Macdonalds, but its ideal as a travel breakfast, it fills you up, is cheap and you can eat it in 6 minutes). Kuala Lumpur had absolutely loads of cool electrical and computer goods. I saw this sign for Acer. You just wouldn’t see 30 foot high laptops in the UK, would you.
	The Petronas towers are, as you would imagine, right in the middle of the commercial district, known as the “Golden Triangle”.The KLCC park (Kuala Lumpur City Centre) is amazingly well landscaped, and I found this small sitting area with a fountain where I stopped to rest. There were people nearby practising Thai Chi, I decided not to photograph them without there agreement.
I arrive at the towers and wander around the entrance.I was struck by the elegance of its design when examined up close. Running up to the entrance, on the right is a road and on the left a pavement. They have obvious boundaries for pedestrian and driver alike but when viewed like this, appear to merge into one.
	The sign and entrance to no 1 Petronas Tower.Behind you can see some of the façades form corners and some form curves. This is what gives the tower its unique shape. Standing up close and staring at the base, you basically see a lot of glass and steel.
Staring up at one of the Petronas towers, tells a different story.Its traditional Islamic Geometric design is made up of two interlocking squares onset with small circles which form an eight pointed star. Eight is homophonous with the word for prosperity in Chinese) and this is also reflected in the number of floors (88). Built by Cesar Pelli, it took 3 years to build and is 452 meters high (it held the record for the worlds tallest building from April 1996 until October 2003 when the Taipei 101 was created which is 56 metres taller). The main problem while building it, was the soft soil of its foundations. They got around this by digging deep into the ground, and pumping millions of tons of concrete, and then running steel rods into them. There were also rumours that the Government ran out of money halfway through the project, but this is unconfirmed (its final completion cost was $1.2 billion). One controversial decision, was to award the contract for construction of each tower to 2 different company’s, offering a bonus for the one that completed first. Whilst this doubtlessly increased the fury with which each tower was built, its often argued that if they had both been able to work together and solve common problems, the whole thing would have been completed even sooner. We’ll never know.
	I wander further around Kuala Lumpur City Centre.A man made Garden, it features lakes fields tropical plants and even a zoo and aquarium.
The towers were so enormous, it took ages to find a place where I could be photographed in front of them.Its only from a distance that you can see the physical beauty of this monument as well as the architectural and engineering feat that it is. I met 2 young girls, who didn’t speak a word of English (although were very friendly and helpful). After 7 shots, they finally take this one.
	Having seen the Petronas towers, I decided to explore the rest of Kuala Lumpur. It was very warm and humid throughout the day and I had to keep drinking water constantly. Menara Kuala Lumpur (popularly known as the KL Tower). This telecommunications tower rises above the Bukit Nanas. I didn’t have enough time to go up in the tower, but I read that it has one of the fastest lifts in the world. Many people think it is taller than the Petronas Towers. This is a natural illusion that occurs because the KL Tower was built on a hill.
Whilst wandering around the tower I spent some time in the Bukit Nanas forest recreational Park. I thought it was cool the way there was a rainforest and jungle you could walk around, right in the middle of a city centre. I followed the 3 short educational walks there, which show all kinds of plants and animals. I was really looking forward to it. I was sorry to leave the Jungle and the Ocean behind me, but sometimes the city can be just as exciting.
	Right next door to the Bukit Nana were 2 very old and distinguished Schools, the Convent Bukit Nanas and St John’s institution. I continued walking and found this row of old Colonial houses.
I head for Merdeka (Independence) Square. On the left is the Royal Selangor club founded for colonials to drink stengah (whisky soda in the long bar). Times have changed and today it is frequented mostly by lawyers although women are still forbidden from entering the long bar. The Field in the centre of the picture is the Padang (it means field in Malaysian). In 1892 when administrators recruited based on skill at Cricket, Ernest Birch was stationed in Kuala Lumpur. He dried out the field outside the Selangor club and started organising matches. Cricket on the Padang has been an institution ever since.
	Also in Merdeka square, is this flagpole. At 95 metres, it is the 2nd tallest flagpole in the world (the tallest flagpole is one I saw in Aqaba, Jordan.
Still in Dataran Merdeka on the other side of Jalan Raja is the Sultan Abdul Samad building. Prior to the building of the Petronas towers, this was the “must see” sight of Kuala Lumpur. Built in 1897 as the supreme court (a role it still performs today) and built over 3 years, an entire factory had to be built, to supply to bricks to construct it.
	The Klang/Gombak river convergence. It was here that Chinese coolies originally began prospecting for tin and arguably where the City of Kuala Lumpur Began. It forms one “point” of the Golden Triangle. In the background, is the Jamek Mosque.
Unfortunately, I couldn’t get a very good picture of the Mosque. Built in 1909 by Arthur Benison Hubback (also responsible for the Old KL Railways station, featured later). It was the City’s first brick mosque and the first in the Federal Territory to sport an onion-shaped dome.
	The old Clock tower at old market square. Built to commemorate the coronation of King GEorge VI in 1937, it features an art deco “sunburst” at its base.
I head into Chinatown. The Chinese community makes up %40 of the residents of Kuala Lumpur. The famous Petaling Street. Inside is one of the city’s oldest traditional “wet” produce markets. As with all Chinese shops, the sales staff were very dignified and polite and didn’t mither or hassle me as is common in other parts of the world.
	I headed towards the Petaling Street Bazaar and bought a couple of presents and stuff like that (and the ubiquitous miniature of the Petronas towers).
Sri Maha Mariamman Temple on Jalan Tun HS Lee. This street has temples from many different faiths represented on it. My favourite was this, the Sri Maha Mariamman, the most famous Hindu temple in Kuala Lumpur. The Gopuram (gateway tower) rises 23 metres above the ground and has hundreds of carvings of Hindu Deities on it.
	The story of Kuala Lumpur is never complete without the mention of Yap Ah Loy, a Hakka immigrant who arrived in Malaysia aged only 17. Nominated community leader of the Coolies (Kapitan Cina) he rebuilt the City at least 3 times. He was mayor, police chief, property developer, judge, tax collector, opium den operator, casino owner and brothel keeper (he also ran a hospital and prison) all rolled into one. A Chinese account of him said “He was not very big or tall but when he spoke his voice was sonorous. His temper was like fire and he had the strength of an elephant”. He was said to have been able to lift 60kg with his hands stretched forwards. This small street, is all that remains of his empire (its the shortest road in town, only 80m long).
The old railway station. Designed in the Mughal style, its as photogenic today as in 1911 when it was completed. Inside there are loads of old trains and stuff like that to look at, but sadly it just looks rundown. The only trains that stop here now are luxurious trains travelling to Singapore and Bangkok. Inside the Railway hotel which would have once housed kings and prime ministers is now a backpacker hostel.
	Rundown and derelict, the once proud Majestic hotel across the road from the station, was the largest hotel in the City and comparable to Raffles in Singapore. Whilst I had to admire the amazing new buildings and parks in Kuala Lumpur, I couldn’t help feeling the its heritage was being “let go”.
Bangunan KTM Berhad (the headquarters of the Malaysian Railway) across the road from the station. It features various architectural motifs such as Mughal minarets, large Gothic windows and ancient Greek column. Unlike the station the inside has been completely refurbished. It survived a bombing in WW2 and a fire in 1969.
	Merdeka Stadium where Malaysian Independence was declared on the 30th August 1957 (it was especially built for the occasion). The image of the country’s first prime minister, Tunku Abdul Rahman, punching the air and shouting “Merdeka” seven times is one that is familiar to every Malaysian It was also the place where Muhammad Ali and Joe Bugner fought for 27 rounds during their 1975 boxing match.

I fly back to Bangkok to catch up with Frank in 2008.

23rd February 200423rd February 2016 admin Bangkok 08, SE Asia, Uncategorised Leave a comment

	Having promised to go and see my old mate Frank at his new home in Bangkok for nearly 2 years, I was feeling quite guilty. But that doesn’t achieve anything. so I fired up Expedia and booked a flight with Ethihad and stopped over in Abu Dhabi airport. Bangkok traditional name is Krunk Thep or city of Angels. Its short for Krung Thep Mahanakhon Amon Rattanakosin Mahinthara Ayuthaya Mahadilok Phop Noppharat Ratchathani Burirom Udomratchaniwet Mahasathan Amon Piman Awatan Sathit Sakkathattiya Witsanukam Prasit – the longest place name in the world.
Frank and Na met me at the airport, and we headed towards the hotel that I had booked for the first night (the excellent Siam Society hotel and resort). I had forgotten the hotel documentation and even with Na’s help we were unable to find it the first time. We went back to Frank and Na’s and they showed me around their condo. Collected the info on line and we took a taxi to the hotel, checked in and then headed for Town. A had seen quite a lot of Bangkok, on my 4 previous trips there, but Frank found some things I hadn’t seen, and we wandered around. The Baiyoke Sky tower II is the highest building in the Kingdom of Thailand.
	There were some interesting (and some strange) things inside the tower, which is also a hotel. I realised just how much living in Thailand had changed Frank. I wanted to be photographed driving this tuck tuck. I asked Frank if we needed to anyone’s permission, and he just said get in it and ill take the picture. He certainly has become a lot more practical and direct while living in Thailand.
On the 84th floor is a spectacular revolving roof deck, with 360 degree views of Bangkok. It was from this vantage point, that you could really see just how much smog there is in Bangkok. It was quite amazing to see the sprawling city.
	One place I have always put of visiting, is Khao San (pronounced Kow-San) road. Years ago, it was a haven for travellers and backpackers, but today is just a tacky collection of hair dying and fortune tellers. You can buy fake student cards and even University degree’s here. It was nice to pop into an Irish bar and have a pint, but aside from that, I didn’t see anything that made me want to ever go back.
As we walked along, Frank pointed out this Police vehicle, which in the UK would be called a meat wagon. Apparently, criminals are “collected” off the street and packed into this thing in the baking evening heat. The human rights of criminals, don’t seem to be a high priority in Thailand.
	These enormous barges travel up and down the Chao Phraya river each day. In some cases a relatively small boat could tow 6 or 7 of these things. We went on a boat trip. One of the touts at the waterfront tried to over charge us. Frank was all over it. His point was I think a fair one. The normal price for the boat trip is 20p. Just because you have money, why should you pay £2.
We wandered around some more (I’ve seen most of the sites of Bangkok, so today I just wanted to walk around and just enjoy being there). We jumped on the skytrain. I took this picture, as it captures several of the things that are synonymous with Bangkok. On the left top, a superb building left unfinished after the problems with the Asian markets a few years ago. On the right, some traditional buildings and loads of trees and vegetation. On the left bottom, some old ramshackle buildings where the locals live in “budget” accommodation.
	In the evening, we went to an Irish Bar and I met Franks friend Matt and his lovely girlfriend Anne. Later in the evening we had chicken and rice known locally as khao pad gai which a grew to love during the trip. Frank and I left for Koh Chang the following day.
On the evening that we returned to Bangkok, there was some kind of Buddhist ceremony taking place. There is a temple right next to the condo and Ann and Na wanted to visit it. We waited outside, and were presented with this strange scene. A series of mechanical monks (basically clothing dummy’s with traditional robes put on them) rotate around on a revolving platform, you take turns at throwing money in the bowls they are holding. They reminded me of something out of Dr Who. As all the bars were closed, we spent the evening wandering around the local area.
	Matt had a day of work the following day, and we all decided to go out. We drove around the city in style, in his car (watch a video of driving in Bangkok). Our first stop, was the Erawan Museum. Built by Lek Viriyaphant a wealthy Thai eccentric, who had also been responsible for the Sanctuary of truths which I had seen whilst walking along the coast of Pattaya. The huge bronze sculpture modelled on Airavata, the heavenly elephant of Hindu mythology, stands on a base pedestal. The pedestal is decorated with millions of tiny tiles enamelled in the fashion of Thai Benjarong ceramics. The museum holds a priceless collection of Thai art and Craft and is modelled on Airavata, the heavenly elephant of Hindu mythology. Tours of the museum start in the lower level of the pedestal, which houses the oldest artefacts. Unfortunately now photographs were permitted in the lower level.
The upper level of the pedestal is dominated by an elaborate double staircase, also decorated in Benjarong porcelain. The structure is surrounded by tranquil gardens, waterfalls and statues. whole are is considered very lucky by local Thai people (most of the people in the museum were Thai, there were very few American, Japanese or British tourists, and those that were weren’t in large groups). It is rumoured that a girl went here and prayed, and a few minutes later, she bought a lottery ticket that made her a millionaire. Not sure if that’s true, but lottery ticket salesmen didn’t seem in a hurry to dispel it.
	A close up of the decoration of the staircase shows these oriental spoons and bowls put to good effect. From here, its possible to walk up a spiral staircase in one of the Elephants legs and go higher into the structure.
In a sort of anti chamber with beautifully made wood panelling. A window at the side, shows some of the gardens and fountains surrounding the statue (and provides a pretty good centre piece for a picture of the lovely Na).
	Further up the stairs, was this celestial altar with Buddha’s and religious artefacts. With its light blue and gold decorated walls following the contour of the elephant, the chapel has a rather ethereal feel. Off the temples I have visited around the world this was one of the most relaxing, and I lingered a while in there once I had seen everything.
After the elephant museum, we went to see the ancient city or as its know locally Mauang Boran. It houses a collection of the Thailand’s most significant historical sites, buildings and structures. Some of the structures some are actual size, but others have been scaled down to a 3rd of their original size. This room was part of a re-construction of an entire Thai village.
	The ancient City is more than 200 acres in size. We travelled around in Matt’s car, but many people toured it by bicycle. It is constructed in the shape of Thailand. Each of the structures, is positioned in the park relative to where the original structure resides in Thailand.
One of the 109 sites represented here, the Pavilion of enlightenment.
	Of all the amazing buildings this was my personal favourite.
It’s recommended to spend a whole day there. We only hung around for a couple of hours, so I never got to research the historical significance of the site. You will just have to take my word for how astounding it was to be there.
	Sala of Ramayana.
A traditional Thai house village house.
	One of the wild deer that live in the Ancient City. The largest outdoor museum in the world, it felt all the more authentic, to have animals like this, just wandering around.
The top of the temple provides this spectacular view of the Ancient City. In 1962, following a serious dispute between Cambodia and Thailand over ownership of the temple, the International Court of Justice in the Hague ruled that it belonged to Cambodia.
	This building was probably the most spectacular in the whole park. I never actually found out what it was called, so if your reading this and you know, please email me.
The floating village. This isn’t actually a reconstruction, the original buildings were dismantled, moved here and then re-constructed in meticulous detail. I really enjoyed being in the Ancient city. I love to explore, and it was like being able to explore an entire country and all its history in an afternoon.
	We decide to take some refreshments. Na has some sort of drink in a coco nut.
Just like in a real floating market, there were traders, plying their wares from boats (although these were more likely to be souvenirs than rice or meat).
	We left the ancient city, and went to visit Bangkok Pier. I had never actually thought about it before, be Bangkok, is right next to the sea. The place is owned by the Army (the Thai army have all sorts of assets and a General for example, can run several businesses whilst working for the government).
The main drive up to the Pier had the largest collection of Seagulls I had ever seen in 1 place. You were able to buy food to feed them, but there were literally thousands of them, flying around in a circle to keep coming back, to get more food.
	On the last afternoon before my flight home and what had been a superb trip.# Frank and I take a boat into town; the same boat that Frank normally takes to work in the morning. In my minds eye, I had this idea of a serene relaxing trip along the water. It didn’t happen that way. They pull up plastic Tarps on each side of the boat, so you cant see out. The engine is dirty and the gearbox long past it sell by date, so the screaming and clattering of the engine and the pungent smell of fuel in my nostrils are my main memories of the trip.
We get off the boat and just wander around looking at things. We eat an enormous fried Chicken meal in one of the shopping centres that would feed 10 people and cost next to nothing. We wander through a market. The stench of rotten meat came close to reuniting me with said meal for 10. We continue walking and Frank shows me this amazing scene just near his condo. To the left of the picture, a banana tree is literally growing out of the pavement. A brilliant trip, I would like to thank Na, Frank Anne and Matt for making me so welcome and I promise i’ll be back soon.

Oliver and Jess get married in Vegas. Gambling, drinking and horrendous shirts.

23rd February 200423rd February 2016 admin Las Vegas, Uncategorised Leave a comment

	I travel to the amazing city of Las Vegas in the United States, to celebrate the wedding of my good friend Oliver and his (now) lovely wife Jessica.It’s taken a little while to get this page done. I would like to thank Sarah Williams for providing the photographs, as I didn’t have a camera with me on the trip.
We stayed in the famous Riviera hotel.It was the hotel used in the film Casino.Like all the hotels in Vegas, all its facilities were open 24hrs a day.
	Like most international trips, it was about 24hrs door to door.Upon arrival, it was important to drink lots of water, and get some rest…But we didn’t !. We went straight out to a bar, and stayed up for another 10 hours, drinking into the night (this would set the theme for the entire holiday). At the back of this picture, is Martin. He was quiet and laid back throughout most of the trip. One night, we visited a night club (I was a bit nervous going through a metal detector !), and he came to life, we couldn’t keep him off the dance floor !
The only truly awful thing about the trip, was my clothes !.I have to confess, that for several months during 1998, I owned and wore THIS shirt !.Oliver and Jess had organised the trip, when I arrived, I found that I would be sharing a room with John Davis (left) who Oliver worked with in London. He was a cracking bloke, and we had loads of laughs throughout the week. On the right, Matt, was there with his girlfriend Fiona.
	Most of the people on the trip were in couples and John and I frequently had knocks on our door, and invitations for a pint, whilst wives/partners watched the tv etc.Nicky and Sarah, lived in a shared house in the centre of Manchester. On nights when everyone went out “coupling”, we all went out together.We all went to see a comedian and wondered why table next to the stage was free, but thought nothing of it. The comedian came on stage, realised we were Brit’s, and used us as a foil, for the rest of his act !. Painfully embarrassing.
Also on the trip was Scott, one of Oliver’s oldest and closest friends.It was a pleasure to meet him, as Oliver had told me lots about him.He came with his then girl friend (and now wife with 2 children) Victoria, who was from Canada. On one occasion, during an evening out, I was telling everyone about a really famous film mistake in a James bond film made in Las Vegas (a red car is jacked up onto its right hand wheels to enable it to drive through an alley. When it comes out of the other side, its on its left hand wheels !) The next day, amazingly, it was on the television, and everyone saw it ! (how strange is that ?)
	In the daytime, we wandered around the “strip” there were some amazing things to see (The mirage hotel has an underground zoo with white tigers.There was also an amazing water show, in the man made lake in front of the Belagio (featured extensively in oceans 11, it had only just been built at the time.This was one of the many amazing eateries we found there, based on a submarine, it was owned and built by Steven Spielberg.
Many of the hotels were enormous.The Venetian, and the Paris, have since been completed, but were still being built whilst we were there (at the time, the 5000 room MGM Grand, was the largest hotel in the world. The New York New York, had a theme park complete with roller coaster on the roof. Of special interest, was the treasure Island hotel, which featured a pirate show, every hour.
	There was all sorts of activity, with people swinging from ship to ship, sword fights and stuff like that.You can see how popular it was, by the backs of peoples heads in this picture.
Once again, a truly gruesome shirt, worn by me.When wearing it, people looked at me as though I should be picking cotton !. The food in Vegas was superb, with buffets costing the equivalent of about £3, and you got all you could eat with up to 300 different dishes, from Thai Green curry, to pancakes. My favourite food here, was steak, which was delicious, and cost next to nothing. We sit down for the evening, at a steakhouse inside the hotel. On my right, is Oliver’s excellent uncle Pete, who was a great laugh, throughout the whole trip.
	Just to show the size of the portions, this rack of ribs, is too big for the plate, and cost a few pounds.The steak I normally ate, was the thickness of a 20 cigarette packet and 8 inches in diameter for £5. They take customer service very seriously in that country, and it was a delight to be looked after so well.
You wouldn’t go to Egypt, without riding a camel.Sarah gets started on the slot machines. They even provided plastic cups for storing coins.
	Oliver puts a few “bucks” onto the roulette table.I am not a massive fan of gambling, so I set myself a budget of £30 (which I lost in about 15 minutes !).
Oliver’s brother Dale on the slot machines.We found out that the longer you gamble on a machine or table, the more perks you get. If you played the slot machines for long enough, you would get drinks, cigarette, and even sandwiches (which sometimes cost more than the total you had “lost” to the slot machine).
	The night of the stag and hen Party.Unfortunately, these are Sarah’s pictures, and so only feature the Hen do The girl on the right, is Matt’s girlfriend Fiona.
They went to see a Jazz band at the amazing Bellagio hotel.
	Here, hearing of her impending marriage, the lead singer of the band gives Jess some “attention”.
The stretch limo “thing” just had to be done !.We were picked up from outside our hotel, and driven to the New York, New York hotel further up the strip, for the wedding ceremony.
	The bride, resplendent in her beautiful wedding gown.
Oliver is my friend.He has always had a bit of a cynical edge to him (as most of my friends do, which perhaps says something about me !). I have seen Oliver happy many times, although usually, this is because of a particularly good kebab, or the first pint of a Friday night. On this occasion, he really was happy and contented, and I knew that they would be happy together. Jessica’s sister Andrea was her maid of honour, and Scott was Oliver’s best man.
	The next day, Jessica’s family hosted a farewell Barbeque for the visiting UK guests.At first I expected to see Jessica’s step father operating the grill, and Jessica’s mum putting the burgers onto the buns However being Americans (and thinking a bit bigger than everyone else), it was actually cooked and served by outside caterers in a holiday apartment that belonged to a friend of theirs. It was nothing short of spectacular. We flew home the following day, and it snowed in Las Vegas for the first time in 14 years. Oliver and Jess now live in Chicago. I remember the young mouthy engineer from IBM, and I knew then he would amount to great things. I have had many chances to go back to Las Vegas, but I never will, I wouldn’t want to spoil the memory of such a special trip.