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Kiso Valley & Nakasendo trail.

16th August 201619th August 2016 admin Kiso Valley Leave a comment

We’ve seen a lot of the big city so far on our trip, now its time to see a bit of the countryside.

As we get on the train, I see another hilarious sign.

More eccentric earlier that day. We stood waiting for our train, as another passed through the station really quickly. I’ll always remember him saying stand back! stand back! in progressively higher pitch, until he was almost screaming.

Using a combination of trains and buses, we arrive at Hakone, in the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park.

No flashy hotel this time, but a comfortable guest house with friendly staff.

But were not here to sit in living rooms, we head straight out in search of adventure…

And what do you know, it’s a main road.

Not exactly what I’d expected, but we wandered around a bit and found this nice spot to have some lunch.

Exploring further, we find a botanical garden.

On the way, we see this truly horrible looking car.

A sort of “wardrobe car” if you will. Worse, they were everywhere we went in Japan!

Back to our bedroom to get changed for the evening.

The bed was made up in a funny sort of way but very comfortable.

Another thing worth mentioning. We were in the high mountains. The window was open and it was freezing!

They had a hot tub at the guest house.

It was possible to book it, they seemed surprised that we didn’t want to do shared bathing.

But that just meant everyone else got to enjoy it for longer.

Earlier in the day, we’d found somewhere nice for dinner.

The table had a barbecue built in, and we were able to cook our own meat.

Nikki and I stop to have this fun photo at the boat station on lake Ashi.

The valley “circuit” can be done using various forms of integrated transport.

First stop a “Pirate Ship” across lake Ashi.

As you can see the weather was appalling. We were meant to have views of Mount Fuji. We didn’t which was a real shame.

Arriving on the other side of the lake at Hakone Machi, we find that most of the coffee houses haven’t opened !.

We do the walking part of the journey along the old Tokaido highway, which used to connect Edo (Tokyo) with Kyoto.

It has 400 year old Cedar tree’s on each side.

The weather improves temporarily and we visit the Hakone checkpoint on the Tokaido highway.

The Emperor made each of the warlords leave children and wives in Edo (old Tokyo) as hostages.

The checkpoint was there to stop them sneaking out, or “farmers” smuggling weapons in.

A small museum nearby has old artefacts including the first passports and reconstructions showing women and children’s hair being examined.

A fantastic sign there said translated English “The exit is narrow. Please say ‘After you’ to each other”.

A bus ride is our 3rd means of transport, then we get onto a funicular.

The crazy thing in Japan is that a funicular is called a “cable car”.

A cable car, which we travelled on next to complete our circuit, is actually called a “ropeway”.

Back to our starting point at lake Ashi for some refreshments and then the bus back to our guest house.

In the evening we wander out in Hakone again and find this fab pizza restaurant, with a wood burning stove and an extensive wine list.

The next morning, we break up our gear pack our daysacks with stuff for a short trip, and have our bags sent on to Kyoto.

Were going to be walking a section of the Nakasendo trail.

Our walk will begin in a place called Magome, where we will be staying over for the night.

The village has gone to great lengths to maintain its authenticity. As you can see form the photo above, all cables are hidden, and cars only allowed to be driven at night.

Even to the point that in its day, Japanese would have been the only language spoken.

There are no printed signs in English, each guest house has a symbol.

We were told to wander up the street and look out for a Racoon (which we found).

In the main room, an open fire and hot tea.

Superb food and accommodation, although communal showers weren’t popular in our group.

The next day, we eat a hearty breakfast and head off.

The route quickly opens up in the countryside and bamboo forests open up on each side.

A sign warning of bears (we didn’t see any, which was good).

A bell to ring at the start of each leg of the trail to “ward off” bears.

We head higher into the mountains, and bamboo is replaced with pine and cedar.

The kind of thing I love about Japan.

In the middle of a long distance footpath, a small shelter where you can stop for lunch or drinks.

No facilities as such, but amazingly has Wi-Fi !.

But we continue on and found a family run tea house where we stop for refreshments.

A working farm, they even had an old rope making machine that I thought was cool.

As we sit down inside to drink our tea, the old man there is singing.

Shortly afterwards a number of Japanese men come in (they look like executives on a weekend walking break).

They join him in song (I’ve no idea what it was) but all the excitement in the middle of the day is one of my happiest memories of the trip.

We continue our journey. The route isn’t long at about 13k, but it’s the experience and the things you get to see that mark a good walk from a bad one.

Speaking of which, this nice waterfall that we saw.

The trail passes through another village called Tsumago.

So far from civilization, they’ve adopted some strange habits (a bit like the people in deliverance).

Can this really be what passes for fashion!

A nearby sign seems to indicate that extra terrestrial families are welcome in the village.

Most of the homes, businesses and restaurants are in buildings like this one, with sliding panel doors.

We stop to eat some traditional food (it’s so nice, that I have 2nds and 3rds!)

And obviously some Asahi beer to wash it down, then we continue.

An hour or so later, our adventure sadly comes to a close.

We arrive at Nagiso, which has this superb wooden bridge.

We wander across the Momosuke bridge where a nice park gives us somewhere to relax.

Back to the railway station and we’re meant to get a taxi to our hotel.

But, it’s still early so we jump on the train and explore the village of Kiso Hirasawa.

Early evening and we arrive our new hotel.

Having spent the day on the trail, a bit of luxury is welcome (I’ve been asked to point out that the buffet was nice, but they didnt have a “propper” bar).

Kyoto.

16th August 201619th August 2016 admin Kyoto Leave a comment

We arrive at Kyoto.

The first thing I noticed was the station, which was incredible.

Simple thing like a railway station is transformed into a living sculpture with amazing atmosphere and presence.

Through the windows we can see the Kyoto tower.

Just to give an idea of the size of the station.

You can tell how much we liked it, we were still hanging around in the station 90 mins after we’d arrived.

Arriving at our hotel, were delighted to find that our bags have arrived from Hakone.

Kyoto is well know for its Temples and Shrines.

We don’t have time to see all of them, but we’ve selected a few.

The courtyard at Tofukuji.

And nearby, this bridge.

Fushimi Inari known for its hundreds of red gates.

Wandering around through the shopping street we head back to our hotel.

In Maruyama park, this statue of Sakomoto Ryoma with his close associate Nakaoka Shintaro.

Two Samurai activists from Kochi who were both assassinated in Kyoto in during efforts to overthrown the Tokugawa shogunate in 1867.

There are 41 remaining Geisha’s in Kyoto (not to be confused with people dressed with traditional clothes and prostitutes).

We were lucky enough to see one of them, but it seemed extremely poor form to photograph her.

So instead, here’s a stock photo I found on the internet.

The To Ji temple.

But were on holiday, so we find this “British pub”.

My one memory of it, was a woman sat with some friends, got up to have a smoke.

So she moved away from her friends to spare them and came and sat next to us. Thanks.

The following day, we’ve actually hired a guide to make the most of our time.

We head straight for Nijo castle.

The place was enormous and contained many different gardens and buildings.

Inside the main building, and you have to take your shoes off.

And once inside, I remember why.

The Nightingale floors are designed to creek and make noise, so if the castle is entered at night by Ninja’s the people inside would know.

Some of the carving in here was incredible, including something with one peace of wood being carved with hole’s so it made 2 different images, 1 on each side.

Some of the gardens and rockery.

The moat and outer walls.

Loads of goldfish congregate by the walkway (it obviously because they are used to getting “free” food from passing tourists).

One of my favourite pictures from our trip.

Japan, ancient and modern captures in one picture.

Our guide recommends a stop off at Kitanu Tenmangu shrine.

She makes a simple prayer and asks if we’d like to do the same.

Praying for the Smiths to reform seems a shallow use of such religious power, so I decline.

Kinkaku Ji temple one of the most popular tourist sites in the whole of Japan (and beautifully landscaped).

Kinkaku Ji is grandiose one moment, then simple and penitent the next.

Beautiful surroundings.

The lake without a ripple on it.

Our guide gives us a gift then takes her leave.

We wander over to the botanical garden.

I feel like Kyoto isn’t so much a city where you go to see things as go to experience things.

I’m certainly feeling it, as at this point in the trip, I’m the most relaxed I’ve been in some months.

We finish off the day with an explanation of the Japanese tea ceremony.

Each of the objects has special significance and is placed appropriately.

It’s explained that the ceremony was founded by the Samurai.

Something along the lines of, the pace of life is so quick, let’s invent something that deliberately can’t be rushed.

Himeji.

16th August 201618th August 2016 admin Himeji Leave a comment

On a day trip from Kyoto, we decide to visit Himeji castle (if its good enough for James Bond, its good enough for me).

Travelling once again by the ultra reliable train, we arrive at the station to this.

An ultra modern city.

A mile away in the distance, is the castle.

The castle is built in a complex of gardens and other buildings.

And what kind of castle doesnt have a moat ?.

Having paid our entrance fee and bought a “throwing star” from the souvenir shop we head up hill to see the castle.

A forecourt at the foot of the castle provides this view back into the city.

You can see that the castle was supremely sited strategically.

I loved this angle, as it shows how imposing the castle is.

The walls were specially angled to make it extra difficult to climb them.

Himeji is said to be the finest authentic example of a traditional Japanese castle.

Inside, it traditional pine.

Although from the outside it appears to have 5 levels, it actually has 6.

Usual wide walkways and anti rooms off to the side that I’d seen on previous castles.

The stairways.

A lot of the time, there were big queues in the castle, as there was a standard walkway you had to follow.

I hung back a lot of the time, so I could get these shots without people in them.

From a balcony overlooking the main hall.

Lower down, the castle had stables and an armoury.

I was impressed at how well everything was taken care off.

An army of gardeners like the ones above tended to the gardens and fixtures.

Other buildings like this one on the grounds but outside the castle had originally been used to house servants and cooks.

A fantastic park next door to Himeji.

Annoyingly, you had to leave and re-enter when they were both next to each other.

After all the austerity and military feel of the castle, it was nice to wander around in nature.

A lovely garden rockery with goldfish swimming.

My final memory of the place, a lovely couple getting married here.

And from here, its back to Kyoto.

Hiroshima.

16th August 201616th August 2016 admin Hiroshima Leave a comment

No trip to Japan would be complete without visiting Hiroshima.

Which, for all the wrong reasons is internationally famous.

I’ve always said there are some places you visit for pleasure and others (like the killing fields) you get little pleasure from, but your learn a lot and are broader as a person.

We check into our hotel and visit the Hiroshima peace memorial museum.

It’s undergoing extensive modernisation and rebuilding.

The entrance uses rubble leftover from the bombing, to re-create the effect immediately after the blast.

A demonstration shows the explosion.

The ball of fire would have been like a small sun, destroyed 5 square miles of the city with temperatures of 8000 degrees.

A replica of Little Boy, I was surprised at the small size of the device.

It was said that within 3 years of the Hiroshima bomb, bombs were available with 3300 times the payload.

Steps from the Sumitomo bank.

You can just make out the dark stain on the stops, all that remains of the person who’d been sitting there when the bomb went off.

I’ve not written too much about the technical nature of the bomb, as that can be easily found online.

For me, it was more about the experience.

Of the two occasions where I had to wipe my eyes were the story of a little boy who had gone missing.

His mother found him after 3 days of searching. She could only identify him by his steel lunch-box.

The other was this series of video where people told there story.

One involved a woman who’s son and daughter had both been killed (she had been in the basement) the buttons on her sons shirt had melted onto him.

Her husband survived the initial blast but died 10 days later.

The most upsetting was the simple statement she said next “It was a shame, we were such a happy family”.

Along with your ticket to the museum, your given a copy of the peace declaration.

The major of Hiroshima leads of consortium of 500 + leaders around the world who refuse to have nuclear weapons in their city.

Specifically, the declaration says that nuclear weapons are simply not compatible with humanity’s continued inhabitation of earth.

Outside the museum I went to the peace park outside contemplating war and peace.

I’m neither cynic nor idealist and it was hard to make any sense of the things I’d seen in the museum.

Only 150 metres from the blast, the A Bomb dome still stands as a symbol of the events of 8:16 am, August 6th 1945.

The cenotaph nearby has the names of all the people who died (above 111,000) in several volumes.

It’s shape is designed to protect the soul’s of the dead.

The inscription nearby says simply “Rest in peace for we shall not repeat the evil”.

Looking back towards the museum, the none eternal flame, that shall burn only to be ignited when all nuclear weapons have been destroyed.

The Peace Bell.

A clock financed and built by local businessmen.

It chimes each morning at 8:16am.

The Children’s Peace monument.

Sadako Sasaki who contracted Leukaemia as a result of the bomb, was convinced if she could fold 1000 paper cranes she would get better.

She only managed to make 644 before her death, the other children at School made the rest and they were buried with her.

Today, thousands of paper Cranes are sent by school children from all over the world and are put on display by the monument.

The memorial mound.

It contains the ashes of 70,000 people who’s bodies were unclaimed either because they were unidentifiable or because the entire family had died and there was none to claim them.

A memorial to Koreans killed in the bombing.

With a heavy hart I left the peace park.

I wandered over to this reconstructed castle, most people seemed quite upbeat.

The first time I laughed that day, was this ridiculous sign, which meant ride your bicycle carefully, but its motive could be misconstrued.

We wondered around by the shops and restaurants and I found something that quite amazed me.

Away from the park, Hiroshima is a thriving international city.

The local people didn’t seem sombre, they had rebuilt their city and rebuilt their lives.

Whilst they would not easily forget, they had chosen not to carry it with them (well, thats how it felt to me).

In the evening we try Okonomiyaki pancakes with chicken and noodles.

I’m not a great lover of Japanese food, but these were delicious.

After a few drinks around the town, I wander back to the A Bomb dome which is lit up at night.

In a contemplative mood, I go back to my hotel and drift off to sleep.

In the morning I’m awake for breakfast.

The view out of the window is the peace park.

It’s a new day. Whilst I wont forget the things I’ve seen here I wont be weighed down by them either.

Just like the residents of this amazing city, I know how valuable the gift of life really is.

Miyajima.

16th August 201616th August 2016 admin Miyajima Leave a comment

After a sobering day in Hiroshima, we head out for the day as many Japanese do to experience the Island of Miyajima.

We travel by tram for nearly an hour.

This was the same tram network that was fully working within 3 days of the Hiroshima bomb.

Arriving at the port, we buy our boat tickets.

Halfway across the bay, we get a close look at the Isukushima shrine and the famous Tori gate.

One of the must see sights of Japan that everyone talks about. To be honest, I wasn’t really blown away.

It’s a Saturday, and as our boat arrives there are hundreds of people joining us.

I wander along with the throng.

There are literally hundreds of places to eat and souvenirs to buy.

Farther along and the crowds thin out to reveal this amazing view of the bay.

We stop at one of the cafes for coffee and a bite to eat.

There is an option to do half a days Sea kayaking, but since we only had a day, we opted not to.

With coffee in hand, we consult our map and plan the rest of the day.

A mountain at the top of the Island is somewhere we really want to see.

We head off.

There is a cable car that goes near to the top, but the wait is at least 90 mins (and anyway, I really wanted to walk it).

It’s hard work, so an hour into our journey we stop and relax at this nice spot that we’d found.

The path was in pretty good order throughout the journey.

This solar powered machine, counts the number of people that pass (so they can calculate how often to repair the path).

Close to the top, the canopy opens and we get this amazing view of the ocean.

We reach the top.

This amazing building has 3 floors with shade and cover from rain.

I wander inside, climb the stairs and this is the view from the top of the building

Good humoured people congregating at the top of the mountain.

Many of them had camping stoves and were cooking noodles and making tea.

But no tea for me.

Nikki and I had seen a guy out walking in the Lakes the previous New Year.

Instead of producing a flask at the top of Scafell, he had a can of beer.

I’d been inspired. I found a quiet spot and opened my can of Asahi.

Instead of returning the way we’ve come, there’s an alternate route back down.

Much quieter than the walking we’d done most of the day.

We stop by these rocks and get a view of the forest.

Were joined by one of the Royal Deer.

They are completely tame and very friendly.

After 90 minutes walking, we stop by this nice waterfall for a rest.

Later we reach ground level and are rewarded with this quiet view of the bay.

And what else to do after such a rewarding day.

A few beers before we head back for the boat.

Osaka.

16th August 201619th January 2017 admin Osaka Leave a comment

We arrive at the last destination on our Japanese trip, Osaka.

Our hotel was really rather swanky, and you can see me packing my pull along bought just for the trip (I’d sustained a shoulder injury so was unable to take my rucksack) .

Our first stop is Osaka history museum.

Over several floors it told the history of Osaka from its earliest times.

A very clever display that showed a video, and when it finished, the screen withdrew to the ceiling, and the view through the window showed the site on the ground bellow that the video had been about.

In another part, its showed how the streets of Osaka would have looked in the 1930’s.

The Umeda Sky building is one of the most recognised landmarks in Osaka.

A unique design had to “flat parts” on each side constructed, and then the “roof” raised up by pulleys.

Inside they had this replica showing how it was constructed.

An interesting video showed its construction and a speeded up part showing the roof being moved into position.

Interestingly, the music to land of hope and glory was playing in the background, which made for a surreal experience.

The top part of the building has a round hole in the middle, with this walkways leading to it with escalators.

And on the viewing platform, you can see the entire city (it’s just a shame that the sun isn’t shining).

A nearby restaurant provides us with sustenance and beer for the rest of our adventure.

I saw this on the toilet wall, quite literally explaining how to use a lavatory.

We decide to tour Kyu Yodo river by boat (at least it will get us out of the rain).

It was really low in the water, and at one point, to get under a low bridge, the roof contracts by about 18 inches.

Back to our swanky hotel.

Outside, its Friday night and everything is hotting up.

We wander around the town and it really was incredible (I guiltily have to admit, that I preferred it to Tokyo).

Nearby, the longest shopping street I’d ever seen, and it was indoor.

I saw various interesting shops, including a sort of army surplus shop. Upstairs, they had Nazi SS uniforms !.

And finally we find this nice spot to have a drink called bar missile.

One thing I loved about Osaka was how everyone was down to earth.

The following day, Nikki and I head out early.

We wander past the Temposan Ferris wheel.

Until we reach our ultimate destination, the Kaiyukan aquarium, one of the largest aquariums in the world.

I’d seen a promotional video earlier in the trip with amazing things from all over Japan.

A section showing an incredible aquarium, turned out to be in Osaka, and I decided I was definitely going to see it.

You go up in a lift to the top.

The idea is that as you follow the route down, you go deeper into the “ocean” and see fish and sea creatures at their relative depths.

At the top level, were otters and things like that, in this amazingly designed rockery environment.

The ubiquitous shark tunnel.

The aquarium has 27 tanks used in 16 main aquariums.

The highlight was the enormous tank in the centre, the biggest I’d ever seen.

They have divers working to clean and maintain the tank 24hrs a day.

The aquariums main attraction are its whale sharks.

The illustration above shows the whale shark next to its nearest neighbour, the great white.

A whale shark swims by.

One problem I had was lighting. It was practically impossible to take a good photos, the handful you can see that worked are what’s left of nearly 100 that I took there.

You might wonder what a tank like that holds 11,000 tons of water would be made off ?

A display showing a 30cm square piece of acrylic glass, used through the aquarium.

Another of its many attractions are its Manta Rays.

At the very bottom of the display, these beautiful Jelly Fish.

Completely enthralled by the aquarium, it now hits me that were going home the next day.

We get tickets to the nearby Temposan Ferris wheel and as you can see from this picture, I’m in a contemplative mood.

The view from the wheel showing the harbour at night.

And the following day, we bid farewell to Japan and head for home.

After so much travel on trains, this will be our last one in the country.

At Osaka airport and something feels strange.

Then it hits me where I’ve heard of it before.

One of my favourite episodes of Megastructures was about this airport, built completely from reclaimed land.

I’ve been to many of the places featured in Megastructures, but this is the first time I stumbled onto 1 by accident.

We fly home and arrive at Manchester airport.

After 2 weeks of constant Japanese train travel without a single train being 1 minute late…

Were back in the UK. The train to crew is delayed by 50 mins. When we get to crew we wait another hour, then the train to Chester is cancelled and we are transport home on a coach similar to the ones used for school trips in my youth 🙂

At least were home safe and sound.

Cyprus 1.

15th August 201618th August 2016 admin Cyprus 1 Leave a comment

It was Christmas time again, and I’d decided that Cyprus looked like an ace destination.

I’d been to Cyprus earlier that year with Dan and Glenn.

With the pressure on at work, I hadn’t properly planned the trip properly.

We’d gone for 2 and a half days, it takes 4 hours to fly there. I worked out the UK/Cyprus time wrong so got everyone off too the beach at 5am, the list goes on.

Despite this, we still had a pretty good time and I saw enough on that trip to know I’d return to Cyprus.

This time I was a bit more organised.

We arrived at Larnaca airport and collected our rental car (we had accommodation booked at the 5 places we’d be visiting through the 8 days that we were there).

The flight was fairly late so we went straight to our hotel, got cleaned up and head straight out for the evening.

It was a Saturday night and there was a really good vibe.

We had dinner outside listening to a live band and had an amazing evening.

In the morning we wake up full of life, and as the sun is shining, we go for a walk on the beach.

We briefly visit St Lazarus church.

We return to the car park to collect our rental car and head for our next destination, the capital Nicosia.

Money can be hard to come by in Cyprus, so they have even resorted to using cats as a replacement for security guards.

We arrive in Nicosia.

The capital is packed. We end up driving around in circles for ages to find somewhere to park.

We reach an area with loads of empty bays. I take this picture of the sign and we walk a mile back to our hotel.

I show it to the girl in reception and ask her what it says ?.

She smiles and explains that the sign says “coaches only”. We leave our bags, go back to the car and spend another half hour finding a parking spot.

In the middle of the day, the city was pretty quiet, but after lunch it was heaving (but then it would be, it was the last Saturday before Christmas !).

With no clear itinerary for the afternoon/evening we just wander around, relax and have something nice to eat and drink.

The next day we have breakfast at a streetside cafe and then go out exploring.

Its the day before Christmas eve. As we enter The national struggle museum, the staff there seem startled and delighted that someone has come to see it.

Moreover, since most of artefacts and information are about horrible acts committed by the British and how they were killed by the Cypriots, they seem surprised we’re so interested.

Although we were the only people there, the stuff inside was fascinating and we spent a full 2 hours looking around and reading the articles.

Wandering into town, we pass the Liberty monument.

One of the Venetian walls around Nicosia town centre.

In 1974 the Turkish invaded Cyprus and annexed 8% of the country. The border runs for 180 kilometres right across Cyprus.

The Green line (as the border is known) runs right through Nicosia and splits it into North and South.

A visit to the North was one of the things I really wanted to do. Nikki cautioned that it was occupied territory and there were ethical issues to be considered.

After a brief discussion, we decide that an hour spent there and a cup of coffee is ok considering its Europe’s last divided city.

We present our passports and are invited in with a smile.

Once in the northern part of Nicosia, everything is much cheaper.

The main problem the authorities have, is nock off sportswear (which was everywhere).

We had a look around, but as so often happens in situations like this, there wasn’t that much to see.

This compound was the most interesting thing we could find, we had coffee and returned to the Green line.

Following day, its Christmas eve and were back in our rented car heading for the Troodos mountains.

It was fantastic to be really warm, yet there was loads of snow on the ground.

When Nikki and I arrived, they were very welcoming, but they looked at us a bit strange.

Later I realised why. Everyone else staying at the hotel was there with children, parents and grandparents.

They had very friendly staff and a nice bar. My kind of Christmas eve.

In the morning, all the staff were dressed as Father Christmas and children were opening presents and stuff like that.

We had our walking boots on and we were off to spend Christmas day on the hill doing the Artemis trail.

Trekking through a snow covered forest.

We could see from the snow drifts, we were the first people to walk here since the last snow.

This incredible view from the top of one of the hills.

We got back in time for Christmas dinner and a few drinks.

The following day we tried to walk up Mount Olympus.

Unfortunately, the very top is a Radar station, so we couldn’t “bag” the peak (the golfball thing you can see at the top of this picture is the Radar dome).

As we leave the Troodos mountains, we stop at Kykkos monastery for lunch.

It looked like some UN staff had taken a day off to visit the monastery as well.

From the outside, the Monastery is in a familiar format.

Inside, the monastery has amazing paintings.

We continue along, flanked by cedar trees.

Some other people have the same idea as us, as we park up the car and go for a walk in the Paphos forest.

Cyprus 2.

15th August 201615th August 2016 admin Cyprus 2 Leave a comment

Our next destination is Polis and I stayed at the Mariela hotel as I had previously with Dan and Glenn.

As we check in, the owner recognises me as a previous guest. Put our bags in our room and head for the beach.

It was quite melancholy to see the beach which had been in blazing sunshine the last time I’d seen it be overcast.

Worse the friendly bar where we all had beers at 9am in the morning was closed.

We spend another afternoon and evening relaxing around Polis (and its important to do that, or you can come back from a holiday more tired then when you went away 🙂

Polis is right near the Akamas peninsula which has some spectacular walking that I’m really looking forward to.

The next day, we drive out and at the car park, I see this donkey. I remember that during the war for independence, the Donkey was the symbol of the resistance (and now the symbol of Cyprus itself).

We set off on the Aphrodite trail.

Rocky shrubland underfoot, but the weather is nice and bright, yet cool enough for a hard day of walking.

We cover about 12 miles, passing through thorny forests like this one and we later meet up with a Russian walker out with his family who we help with directions.

As the route goes higher, we get this view back to Polis. The route is said to follow the path taken by Aphrodite and and Adonis.

The route is circular, but this iconic shot is taken at the “top” of the route.

The view there was one of the very best I think I’ve seen on a coastal walk.

As we head back down, we see this mountain goat.

I know how well they can climb, but I’ve honestly no idea how it got up there.

The walk begins/ends at the Baths of Aphrodite.

The place where the epitome of beauty would bath, wasn’t very inspiring to my eyes.

After a good nights sleep, we head for our final destination Paphos.

The harbour was pretty quiet and we had a cup of tea and a look around.

We had a walk around inside Paphos castle on the waterfront.

It was rebuilt in the 1300’s.

Inspired by the castle and with not much going on in the town (turns out the beach is actually a bus ride up the coast) we decide to explore some of the older sites in Paphos.

Paphos archaeological park covered a massive area and had loads of interesting things to see.

Paphos Mosaics was located on the site and showed how they had recovered and restored many of the Mosaics there.

Obviously, the Mosaics were stored indoors.

Further around, and amphitheatre (which I’ve always loved) and a lighthouse in the background.

In the evening, town is pretty dead.

We walk around for an hour, until we find a really nice Italian, that’s full of locals.

Next day we decide to drive out to the beach.

On the way we stop off at the Tomb of the Kings.

I always like exploring under ground and I was in my element (although annoyingly, I’d forgotten my headtorch).

A peaceful spot where I sit down and contemplate life (and disappointingly realise that I’m going home very shortly).

We arrive at the beach.

It’s interesting, as there seems to be a series of large resorts, which are all closed.

So much so after walking along the beach for 2 hours, there was literally now where to get a drink.

We headed inland and found a sort of Cowboy themed bar, where I had a steak and a couple of beers.

Another quiet night, and then were off back to Larnaca for the final evening of our trip.

On the way, we stop off at an enormous ancient site, called Kourion.

Much of the area was covered, which worked out well, as shortly after we arrived, the heavens opened.

We’d seen a lot of archaelogical stuff in the previous days, so were feeling a bit “party’d” out.

Just at the right moment, another amphitheatre.

Its lunchtime by now, and I actually convince Nikki to have lunch at Macdonalds.

Our next stop is Aphrodite’s rock, where she is said to have been born.

A strange sort of arrangement, as you turn off the main coastal road see to drive in the wrong direction towards a car park.

There are cafes and souvenir shops here. I wander around, I find there is a tunnel that leads down and underneath the road.

The view above, on the left, showing the “doorway” that lead from the car park to the beach.

Apparently, this was created as lots of unnecessary accidents had occurred with people crossing the road on foot.

Aphrodite’s rock on the right.

And with that, the trip ends as it began.

Back in Larnaca, we check back into our hotel and head out for the evening.

An early flight will be taking us back to the UK in the morning.

But for now I’m enjoying life’s simple pleasures, good company, cold beer and an amazing travel destination.

Malta & Gozo 1.

12th August 201618th August 2016 admin Malta & Gozo 1 Leave a comment

We quite like to go away at Christmas, and this time we decided to visit Malta and Gozo.

Above I’m pictured in front of the Azure window as featured in Game of Thrones.

A few (quite a few) years ago, me and my friends decided to go on holiday together.

Opinion was divided amongst the group. Some of us wanted a “summer holiday”, others wanted to visit the Alps (you can probably guess which camp I was in).

As it was Julie, Mac and Caz went to Malta and had a really good time, while Lee and I went to the Alps and went Interailing around Europe.

I remember hearing all about Malta and always wondered what it was like. Now I was going to find out.

We’d be spending 8 days over Christmas touring the Island with short stop off’s and 2 night breaks.

We fly into Malta international airport. The only airport in fact, since the Island is actually 16 miles long.

We get a taxi to our first destination Marsaxlokk, A traditional fishing village with 3.5 thousand inhabitants.

It was late in the evening, so we found somewhere local for dinner then had drinks in a few bars before retiring to bed.

In the morning, our hotel had a rooftop bar where we had breakfast (which luckily had a roof, as the weather was terrible).

So, not a perfect start to our trip, but as usual we’ve got a contingency.

Travelling via the capital Valletta we head for a fortified medieval city called Mdina.

We used the bus service extensively throughout out trip and found it to be very comfortable and reliable.

And Mdina certainly was fortified, it had the massive walls all around it.

It was an interesting place to visit and an ideal “rain” destination.

Which was good, as the rain was getting worse.

Inside the walls, a small bar where we shelter from the rain.

Very atmospheric and the wine and beer were really nice. We spent about 2 hours in here, as we’d seen everything by now and it was tipping down outside.

We wander back through the alleyways and head home.

Back at Marsaxlokk to get cleaned up, then were out for the evening.

La Nostra Padrona is recommended by our hotel and my steak was delicious.

One thing to note about Malta, is that most meals come with a sort of pre-starter, and if you dont know this and your hungry, you order a pretty big starter and then can’t finish your main.

In the morning we go out for a walk before breakfast, and the weather has changed completely.

Marsaxlokk is known for its special kind of boats which are painted in local colours and a bit “boxy”.

We wander further to see the Parish church before heading back for our breakfast.

With a walking trip planned later that morning I eat plenty as I’ll need the calories.

We wander along the coast then head inland along a farm track.

Short while afterwards, we cross the island and wander along a coastal path.

And then we reach St Peter’s Pool.

A lovely quiet cove where we enjoyed the sunshine and had a swim.

There seemed to be a sort of abandoned hotel here.

Its a shame, as it would have made a superb destination for weekend breaks (and would have allowed us to buy some cold drinks).

With cold drinks on our mind, we wander back to the village and relax by the ocean.The waterside cafe in Marsaxlokk.

With our 2 days complete, were off to our next destination Xlendi, on Malta’s sister Island, Gozo.

Gozo can only be reached by ferry, so we get another bus to Cirkewwa.

The journey is quite short (30 mins).

We got some drinks and while Nikki looked out at the Mediterranean ocean, I wandered around the shop (they had an extensive selection of English books and magazines).

Between Malta and Gozo is an Island called Camino which features a beautiful swimming spot called the Blue Lagoon.

I’d wanted to see it, but its only 500m across and only has 1 hotel which was closed. With no resources on the Island, the ferry’s weren’t sailing there.

We get a tax to Xlendi and check into the Hotel San Andrea.

The view of the bay from our balcony window is one of my favourite memories of the trip.

Since its late afternoon, we wander around the town and explore (I find a nice pub and Nikki a respectable Italian restaurant).

In the evening, we out out at Zafiro and I try the local Risotto.

We’ve earmarked two incredible coastal walks while on Gozo, so the next morning its an early breakfast and out.

The road’s out of town have these amazing countryside valleys in between them.

We head up a farm track and I pause for this picture.

A discussion about whether a path is privately owned, puts us off balance.

After another discussion and reviewing the “picture” which the tourist board describes as a map, we find an alternative route and were re back on track.

We stop at this pool which has all sorts of wildlife and birds.

It’s also a nice spot to stop for some rest and a drink.

We reach the Dwejra bay and are rewarded with these amazing pictures.

The Fungus rock above is home to many unique plants and animals and although people dive and fish around here, they aren’t allowed on the rock.

It takes its name from the Fungus Cynomorium coccineum which the Knights discovered had medicinal properties.

Continuing along the sandy coastal path.

Five different species of Gekko live here, of which 2 are unique in the entire world.

There are many forts on the coast. Dwejfra fort was built in the 1700’s and later used by the coastguard.

Its been restored to superb condition and had a museum inside with a historical video.

You could also go onto the top battlement.

Anther half mile and we reach the thing we really wanted to see. The Azure window.

That’s me standing on top of it, to give some idea of its size.

Its not recommended to stand on top, but it was a once in a lifetime thing. Nikki took this picture from the cost.

This is a close up off me.

As you can see, there are cracks forming in the rock. Although I felt safe, if I’d walked 3 feet forward I would have been in the water !.

There were some souvenir shops, but we got the bus to the capital of Gozo, Victoria and did some sight seeing.

At one point, we were in a bar, and someone who worked there, and bought an Angel to go on top of his tree.

He had dropped it, and it didn’t light up. I used my headtorch for additional lighting and with my penknife started fixing it.

And after all the buildup, I coulnt fix it. Instead, we gave him a tip of the price of the Angel so all was well.

Some nice Tappa’s for dinner, and then bus back to Xlendi.

A different route this morning, heading out of the bay.

Looking back, we could see our hotel.

Starting off at a lower level, it follows the coast.

After a while, it heads inland across rough tracks, and we see some people out on mountain bikes.

The walk PDF’s we got off the internet were enthusiastically written, but not recently researched.

The walk along the cliff edge (yes, its about 4 feet away from a 350 foot drop) come to an end as someone has built a wall.

We circumnavigate and rejoin the path.

Back next to the ocean, the surroundings have changed once again.

We continue, heading for the port town of Mgarr.

Just outside town we arrive at Fort Chambray.

This place was amazing, an old fort on the outside, had been converted into modern flats and apartments on the inside.

I would have loved to live there.

Just before we reach Mgarr harbour, we get this view of Camino island.

Malta & Gozo 2.

12th August 201612th August 2016 admin Malta & Gozo 2 Leave a comment

With Christmas day around the corner its time to move again, this time to a more central town (so we’ll actually be able to get something to eat on Christmas day and everywhere wont be shut).

Time now for a bit of luxury, we stay at the Seashells resort in Qawra near St John’s bay.

It’s Christmas eve, so we wander into the main town to explore.

Just after lunchtime on Christmas eve, I’m disappointed at the number of drunken “balloons” around so we head back to the peace and quiet of our hotel.

We sit by the Ocean and have some nice drinks. I cant remember a Christmas eve lunchtime like this before.

We’ve not booked anywhere for Christmas eve dinner and I’m starting to get concerned. No matter we’ll sort something out.

Our first stop, is the hotel itself, as a reception is being held for all guests by the hotel management. We popped in and joined them for a drink (they were really nice, and it wasn’t the “sales promotion” kind of thing I’d expected.

As we head around the hotel, we find a quiet bar called the Blue Dolphin (so quiet, that Nikki and I were the only guests).

I’m not religious, but Christmas is always a special time for me and I’m having a nice time.

But what are we going to do about dinner (my contingency plan of the breakfast bars I have in my rucsack just wont fly with Nikki 🙂

We ask the bar if they can recommend anywhere and they have an attached restaurant.

Result, the food is lovely and the wine selection extensive.

When we first sit down its pretty quiet, but a few minutes later, several family’s arrive. One group is so big it fills the entire table in the centre of the room.

With food eaten, toasts given, hands shaken and Happy Christmas said to everyone, we head home.

We decide to have a list drink in a bar nearby. The end of Christmas eve, was a special time.

It being Christmas day, what can we do but head out walking.

A bus takes us too Ghadira and we walk a road up to Slugs bay.

From here, we follow a track along the coast with views like the one above.

There were loads of recreational boats moored here, and I presume people come here at weekends to go sailing and boating.

One of the beaches has a public bathroom.

I loved this sign, that says please don’t wash your feet !.

We wander passed Ramla bay resort.

I’m not a “summer holiday” type, but this place looked like it had everything.

Only thing was, it appeared derelict and closed down. Since returning home, I’ve realised its still open, it does a full shutdown at certain times of the year. I really liked it and I’m going to go back there.

It even has a diving school, and this map shows a number of wrecks nearby that you can dive too.

Continuing, we cross a rocky outcrop.

There’s an enormous cave (so big that some people are camping in there and as we pass are rock climbing inside the cave with ropes.

A place a found really exciting was an abandoned army base, used during the 2nd world war and finally closed in 1967.

I reminded me a lot of the sort of thing you used to see on the xFiles, but Nikki didn’t really enjoy it as much as me.

Near the end of our walk, and we arrive at St Agatha’s tower built in 1649 and instantly recognizable by its red colour.

Nearby is a nature reserve with lots of birds.

I find these abandoned buildings (I quite like abandoned buildings).

It looked like it used to be either a hotel or a very wealthy persons house.

Whatever it was, it was derelict now, but the vandals had at least painted nice murals all over it.

We wander back to the bus stop and while waiting had a drink at the Maxima bar.

Relaxing the rest of the day and evening, we set of the next morning for our final destination, the capital of Malta, Valletta.

We stay in hotel Fortina which is really nice.

They’ve mad a mistake and we dont have a sea view.

To compensate were given us a massive room. We found out when we went for breakfast that several hundred people are staying at the same hotel and they are all British, at least 60 and wearing sportswear from a different era :).

The capital is a funny sort of place, as its made up a of a few different peninsula’s. As were staying on Sliema, we have to get a ferry (or walk a long way) to get to Valletta, Paola or Birgu.

Stepping off the ferry, we walk up this steps to reach the main street of Valletta.

Its a vibrant thriving place so we immediately start exploring.

The South-east side of Republic square.

A library today, it was originally used to store records and contracts used by the Knights of Saint John.

The Knights of Saint John, occupied and ruled Malta.

There symbol, the Maltese cross is today used by the St John’s Ambulance society.

The 8 points on the cross represent the 8 languages spoken by the Knights (they were a multinational organisation) and the 8 rules/principles they were bound by.

Above is the Grandmasters palace of the order of St John.

Inside, the usual red carpet room thing.

And this corridor with amazing art work on the ceiling.

They had an extensive armoury which I found fascinating, and Nikki found rather dull.

We discovered one really cool thing about this Medieval town.

We had drinks in a place called Malata bar across from the Grandmasters palace.

A street along was City lounge where we’d decided to have dinner. I mentioned this to the barman, who showed us a “secret passage” at the back of the bar.

Down some dark steps and were actually in the main restaurant of the City lounge !.

And after such “Indiana Jones” excitement, what else but a lovely piece of steak, with Cafe de Paris sauce.

St John’s Cathedral.

They were doing restoration work, its always disappointing when a facade is put up, but I suppose its necessary.

We visited the Lascaris war rooms, deep underground.

Malta had played a significant role during the war, as it was strategically placed once the African front opened up.

It was frequently bombed from Italy.

Radar was used to track flights from Italy, so they knew when to be ready.

Worst of all, was when a British war ship HMS Havock was docked in the Grand harbour for repairs.

The enemy were determined to sink it in harbour and Spitfires were scrambled from Malta several times each day.

The Island itself suffered heavy casualties but life still went on.

Our guide in the war rooms said simply, we are Roman catholic on this Island, we produce people the way other society’s produce potatoes.

Hardly politically correct, but I think it reflected the personality of the people there, who I’d grown to love.

Another “historical” event that took place in Valletta, Malta was at this pub (which is simply called “The Pub”).

It’s here that Oliver Reed passed away after a night of heavy drinking (while making Gladiator, the producers had to use some animated material to complete the film).

It was loud and brash and not somewhere I’d want to go. So exactly the kind of place Oliver Reed would like 🙂

Instead, we had a few drinks in D Office Bistro, a much more calm and relaxing environment.

Its such a nice evening, that instead of getting the boat back, we decide to walk.

Next morning we head back to Valletta.

The arches and fountain of upper Barakka gardens.

From the battlements nearby, we can see across to the Forti Sant Anglu in the centre of the Grand Harbour.

We travel over and visit the fort. After several hours, we leave and have a drink at Cargo bar and dine.

We have a look around Malta Maritime museum (obviously ships and boating are important if you live on an Island).

It’s located in a former Naval bakery. They are hosting a wedding there that evening, so there are flowers everywhere.

On one floor, they have constructed an entire engine room from a frigate sent for scrap.

Afterwards, we “charter” a small boat back to Valletta.

He asks for 5 Euro’s but we give him 10.

Lovely and peaceful sailing back to port with all the ships lit up.

We wander up onto the battlements, so I can get a better look at this ship (one of many massive boats in the harbour, but the one I liked the most).

An enormous thing with swimming pool and helicopter landing pad.

As I passed it, I did a wifi scan. They had crew_recreation_ 1 & 2 which gives some idea of how elaborate things must be on that boat.

Near the lower Barakka gardens, the Siege Bell memorial.

A final memory of the trip, its time to head back to the hotel, as were flying home in the morning.

I love this place.

My thoughts go back to all those years ago. I’m glad I went to the Alps but part of me wishes I’d come here as well.