Year: 2004

Singapore and drinks in Raffles hotel.

boats I walked along the river bank and saw these junkets.

I find Singapore to be very clean and well run. It was certainly the safest place I visited while travelling.

A statue of Raffles, which says he came upon a small fishing village, and changed the course of its destiny forever. statue
me_rain Me standing outside a government building. The guidebook had 3 walking tours, which Frank and I did.

I wore my go anywhere Rohan shirt, it was warm and soaking all day.

I was born in Oldham in Manchester, so when I saw this sign, I took a picture of it. oldham
lousyfish I saw this cafe. They certainly were to the point. I don’t know if you can read it, but the sign says “no lousy fish” and “no good don’t pay”
The Swissotel. 70 stories high. Awesome. 70floorhotel
bar Frank and I in Raffles hotel, where there are peanuts on the floor. Whilst there, the Norwegian king and queen came into the bar with an entourage of 40 people. We liked it that much, that we had 4 pints.
The original billiard room in Raffles hotel. Its said that a tiger was shot underneath the billiard table. In reality, the tiger was underneath the floorboards. billiardroom
hotel1 The entrance to Raffles hotel. They actually had a guy in traditional dress greeting guests.
The forecourt inside Raffles hotel. hotel2
umberella A sculpture of people with umbrellas. If you look closely, you can see that Frank is in the picture amongst them.

Kuala Lumpur and the Petronas towers.

pt2 A few people I know, had talked about a program on the National Geographic Channel called MegaStructures.I decided to record a couple of episodes and watch them when I wasn’t doing anything. The episode I watched first was about the building of the Petronas towers in Kuala Lumpur.

I wont spoil the contents of the program, but suffice to say I was astounded and inspired and I decided I would travel to Kuala Lumpur and stand in front of the Petronas towers.

Since I was already doing a trip to Borneo, it made sense to stop off for a day and a half on the way back.

I fly back from Borneo, land at KL airport and then store my large rucksack at the airport (I only needed a day sack, as I was staying in a pretty plush hotel, and during the day would just need something to carry water and a guidebook around in.Its 40km from the Airport to the city, so I jumped on this spotlessly clean and efficient train.

I was really looking forward to it. I was sorry to leave the Jungle and the Ocean behind me, but sometimes the city can be just as exciting.

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firstlook I get a taxi to my hotel the Crown Princess Kuala Lumpur (booked through Expedia).As I head for my room, I get my first glimpse of the Petronas towers.

The Petronas towers are said to symbolise Kuala Lumpur’s self belief and focus, along with its slogan “KL can do it”.

I am a bit tired from my time in the Jungle, and having just got of a plane, I decide the best thing to do, is the 3b’s. Beer, bath and bed (I relax in the bath with a bottle of beer, then get some sleep).While in the bath, I have another quick read of my guidebook.

There is no clear protocol on mobile phones and its perfectly normal to hear a phone ringing in the cinema.

I had heard before, that a Muslim man can divorce his wife by saying “I divorce you” 3 times. I was astounded to read that Sharia law has extended this to text message.

Malaysian law also permits use of the Rattan cane, which civil rights groups are fighting.

Kuala Lumpur has a 100% Literacy rate and expects to be a fully developed City like London or New York by 2020.

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curry I decide to spend the evening relaxing. The hotel featured an Indian restaurant called the Taj. Sounded a bit cheesy to me, but I gave it the benefit of the doubt.In reality, it had won the Malaysian tourist board award for best Indian restaurant, 4 times running.

The food was so good, that I ate a main course, than asked for the same 1 a 2nd time !.

Along with cold beer and this amazing view, it made for an absolutely fantastic evening.

On the ground floor was a Sports bar, with a few Japanese businessmen where I had a quick drink.

I surprised myself by spending the rest of the evening in the Piano bar, listening to a singer they had there. Off to bed, loads to do in the morning.

I wake at 7:30am. My bag is already packed for the day and my guidebook has scotch tabs so I can find maps and relevant pages quickly (preparation is key, when your trying to see a place and you don’t have a lot of time).I head for the Petronas towers and see a McDonalds (okay, a lot of people don’t like Macdonalds, but its ideal as a travel breakfast, it fills you up, is cheap and you can eat it in 6 minutes).

Kuala Lumpur had absolutely loads of cool electrical and computer goods. I saw this sign for Acer. You just wouldn’t see 30 foot high laptops in the UK, would you.

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garden3 The Petronas towers are, as you would imagine, right in the middle of the commercial district, known as the “Golden Triangle”.The KLCC park (Kuala Lumpur City Centre) is amazingly well landscaped, and I found this small sitting area with a fountain where I stopped to rest.

There were people nearby practising Thai Chi, I decided not to photograph them without there agreement.

I arrive at the towers and wander around the entrance.I was struck by the elegance of its design when examined up close.

Running up to the entrance, on the right is a road and on the left a pavement. They have obvious boundaries for pedestrian and driver alike but when viewed like this, appear to merge into one.

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pt1 The sign and entrance to no 1 Petronas Tower.Behind you can see some of the façades form corners and some form curves.

This is what gives the tower its unique shape.

Standing up close and staring at the base, you basically see a lot of glass and steel.

Staring up at one of the Petronas towers, tells a different story.Its traditional Islamic Geometric design is made up of two interlocking squares onset with small circles which form an eight pointed star.

Eight is homophonous with the word for prosperity in Chinese) and this is also reflected in the number of floors (88).

Built by Cesar Pelli, it took 3 years to build and is 452 meters high (it held the record for the worlds tallest building from April 1996 until October 2003 when the Taipei 101 was created which is 56 metres taller).

The main problem while building it, was the soft soil of its foundations. They got around this by digging deep into the ground, and pumping millions of tons of concrete, and then running steel rods into them.

There were also rumours that the Government ran out of money halfway through the project, but this is unconfirmed (its final completion cost was $1.2 billion).

One controversial decision, was to award the contract for construction of each tower to 2 different company’s, offering a bonus for the one that completed first.

Whilst this doubtlessly increased the fury with which each tower was built, its often argued that if they had both been able to work together and solve common problems, the whole thing would have been completed even sooner. We’ll never know.

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klcc1 I wander further around Kuala Lumpur City Centre.A man made Garden, it features lakes fields tropical plants and even a zoo and aquarium.
The towers were so enormous, it took ages to find a place where I could be photographed in front of them.Its only from a distance that you can see the physical beauty of this monument as well as the architectural and engineering feat that it is.

I met 2 young girls, who didn’t speak a word of English (although were very friendly and helpful).

After 7 shots, they finally take this one.

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kltower Having seen the Petronas towers, I decided to explore the rest of Kuala Lumpur. It was very warm and humid throughout the day and I had to keep drinking water constantly.

Menara Kuala Lumpur (popularly known as the KL Tower).

This telecommunications tower rises above the Bukit Nanas.

I didn’t have enough time to go up in the tower, but I read that it has one of the fastest lifts in the world.

Many people think it is taller than the Petronas Towers.

This is a natural illusion that occurs because the KL Tower was built on a hill.

Whilst wandering around the tower I spent some time in the Bukit Nanas forest recreational Park.

I thought it was cool the way there was a rainforest and jungle you could walk around, right in the middle of a city centre.

I followed the 3 short educational walks there, which show all kinds of plants and animals.

I was really looking forward to it. I was sorry to leave the Jungle and the Ocean behind me, but sometimes the city can be just as exciting.

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colbuilding Right next door to the Bukit Nana were 2 very old and distinguished Schools, the Convent Bukit Nanas and St John’s institution.

I continued walking and found this row of old Colonial houses.

I head for Merdeka (Independence) Square.

On the left is the Royal Selangor club founded for colonials to drink stengah (whisky soda in the long bar). Times have changed and today it is frequented mostly by lawyers although women are still forbidden from entering the long bar.

The Field in the centre of the picture is the Padang (it means field in Malaysian).

In 1892 when administrators recruited based on skill at Cricket, Ernest Birch was stationed in Kuala Lumpur.

He dried out the field outside the Selangor club and started organising matches. Cricket on the Padang has been an institution ever since.

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flagpole Also in Merdeka square, is this flagpole.

At 95 metres, it is the 2nd tallest flagpole in the world (the tallest flagpole is one I saw in Aqaba, Jordan.

Still in Dataran Merdeka on the other side of Jalan Raja is the Sultan Abdul Samad building.

Prior to the building of the Petronas towers, this was the “must see” sight of Kuala Lumpur.

Built in 1897 as the supreme court (a role it still performs today) and built over 3 years, an entire factory had to be built, to supply to bricks to construct it.

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2rivers The Klang/Gombak river convergence. It was here that Chinese coolies originally began prospecting for tin and arguably where the City of Kuala Lumpur Began.

It forms one “point” of the Golden Triangle.

In the background, is the Jamek Mosque.

Unfortunately, I couldn’t get a very good picture of the Mosque.

Built in 1909 by Arthur Benison Hubback (also responsible for the Old KL Railways station, featured later).

It was the City’s first brick mosque and the first in the Federal Territory to sport an onion-shaped dome.

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clock The old Clock tower at old market square.

Built to commemorate the coronation of King GEorge VI in 1937, it features an art deco “sunburst” at its base.

I head into Chinatown. The Chinese community makes up %40 of the residents of Kuala Lumpur.

The famous Petaling Street.

Inside is one of the city’s oldest traditional “wet” produce markets.

As with all Chinese shops, the sales staff were very dignified and polite and didn’t mither or hassle me as is common in other parts of the world.

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petaling2 I headed towards the Petaling Street Bazaar and bought a couple of presents and stuff like that (and the ubiquitous miniature of the Petronas towers).
Sri Maha Mariamman Temple on Jalan Tun HS Lee.

This street has temples from many different faiths represented on it.

My favourite was this, the Sri Maha Mariamman, the most famous Hindu temple in Kuala Lumpur.

The Gopuram (gateway tower) rises 23 metres above the ground and has hundreds of carvings of Hindu Deities on it.

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yal The story of Kuala Lumpur is never complete without the mention of Yap Ah Loy, a Hakka immigrant who arrived in Malaysia aged only 17.

Nominated community leader of the Coolies (Kapitan Cina) he rebuilt the City at least 3 times.

He was mayor, police chief, property developer, judge, tax collector, opium den operator, casino owner and brothel keeper (he also ran a hospital and prison) all rolled into one.

A Chinese account of him said “He was not very big or tall but when he spoke his voice was sonorous. His temper was like fire and he had the strength of an elephant”.

He was said to have been able to lift 60kg with his hands stretched forwards.

This small street, is all that remains of his empire (its the shortest road in town, only 80m long).

The old railway station. Designed in the Mughal style, its as photogenic today as in 1911 when it was completed.

Inside there are loads of old trains and stuff like that to look at, but sadly it just looks rundown.

The only trains that stop here now are luxurious trains travelling to Singapore and Bangkok.

Inside the Railway hotel which would have once housed kings and prime ministers is now a backpacker hostel.

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maj Rundown and derelict, the once proud Majestic hotel across the road from the station, was the largest hotel in the City and comparable to Raffles in Singapore.

Whilst I had to admire the amazing new buildings and parks in Kuala Lumpur, I couldn’t help feeling the its heritage was being “let go”.

Bangunan KTM Berhad (the headquarters of the Malaysian Railway) across the road from the station.

It features various architectural motifs such as Mughal minarets, large Gothic windows and ancient Greek column.

Unlike the station the inside has been completely refurbished. It survived a bombing in WW2 and a fire in 1969.

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sm Merdeka Stadium where Malaysian Independence was declared on the 30th August 1957 (it was especially built for the occasion).

The image of the country’s first prime minister, Tunku Abdul Rahman, punching the air and shouting “Merdeka” seven times is one that is familiar to every Malaysian

It was also the place where Muhammad Ali and Joe Bugner fought for 27 rounds during their 1975 boxing match.

Visiting and exploring Hong Kong.

mntvictoria The view of Hong Kong from the top of Mount Victoria. I walked down, several different paths on the way down the hill. It was really relaxing.
A busy street in Hong Kong. I found the people a little impolite, but since I used to work in Chinatown in Manchester, I was more than used to their culture. I found the pace of life in this city to be exhilarating. busystreet
bigtv A forecourt in the banking sector, where people could sit and watch television. You can see Yasser Arafat here, as It was reported he wasn’t well (he has since died).
On the star ferry, travelling to Hong Kong Island (I stayed at the Marco Polo Hong Kong hotel, in Kowloon Harbour. starferry
tram One of the original trams, That still run in Hong Kong.
A waterfall, in the beautiful Hong Kong park. It even has a zoo. waterfall
boctower Bank of China tower, one off the newest and grandest buildings in Hong Kong.
I found the place to be very status orientated and flash. As I passed a jewellers shop, I was 2 mobile phones, one made of gold, and the other platinum. The gold phone, cost the equivalent of £35000 !. goldphone
climber This was a brilliantly drawn picture on the side of a building, which caught my eye.
The two Lippo towers. I personally thought they were the best looking architecture on the Island. lippotow
hsbc The Hong Kong and Shanghai Banking Corporation (HSBC) Head office, designed in 1984 by Sir Norman Foster.
The modern building is located on the same site as the original, and has a Lion on each side of the entrance. When the Japanese invaded Hong Kong they actually used the Lions for target practice, and you can still see the bullet holes. lion
bowlleaves In the Hong Kong Zoo, I was an amazing underwater plant which has leaves the same shape as bowls (Victoria cruziana).

More than 20 inches in diameter, a small child can sit on one, and it will float.

A cave like walkway in the Hong Kong Park. You can probably guess that I like the park, I spent quite a lot of time there. cave
govhouse The original governors mansion, in the middle of the banking sector.
The entrance to Kowloon park, which was just near my hotel. kowpark1
kowpark2 This is a public swimming pool, in the centre of Kowloon park. I could hardly believe how clear the water was.
I was getting a drink in Hong Kong Airport. A few girls came up to me, and asked me for directions. One of them is Miss South Africa, who agreed to pose for a picture. miss_sa

Visit to Beijing and walk on the Great Wall (2/2).

meridiangate Meridian Gate (Wumen).

The emperor would pass through this gate when traveling to the courtyard.

The emperor was the only living person who could pass through the middle entrance.

The beautiful man made river Jinshui He (Golden water stream) which runs through the centre of the City.

Five marble bridges cross it.

Its said that Chairman Mao in his later years, filled this pool with Naked young girls from all across China.

fcwater1
park1 After visiting the Forbidden city, most people visit Jingshan Imperial Garden.

Its a lovely park, and is famous for 2 things.

The hill in the centre, with spectacular views of Beijing (the hill is made from the soil leftover from the forbidden city moat).

The 2nd is a tree, where the last Ming emperor committed suicide in 1644.

The suicide note on his lapel said:

“My own insufficient virtue and wretched nature has caused me to sin against heaven above. I die knowing I am wholly unworthy to stand before my sacred ancestors.”

“Let the rebels tear my miserable body to pieces but let them touch not a single hair on the head of the least of my subjects.”

Afterwards the tree was considered an accessory to the emperors death and was placed in irons.

park2
cmgate The Tiananman gate at the top of Tiananman square featuring the face of Mao Zedong (Chairman Mao).

At 400,000 square meters, is the largest public square on earth (bigger than Newton Heath where I grew up).

The idea was to create a place where people could congregate. That backfired on the government in 1989.

Mao’s Memorial Hall (Mausoleum) in Tiananman Square.

The so called “chain smoking poet rebel”.

Born the Son of a wealthy farmer, the long march where 8000 men walked 10,000 kilometres in one year marked the peak of his military/leadership achievements.

His flaw, was said to be a need for constant revolution, and his incompetent agricultural policy is reckoned to have caused the deaths of 38 million Chinese.

Paranoid and eccentric towards the end, he is still revered by the common folk, who weep openly as they look at his embalmed body.

cmmause
ol The Chinese have gone Olympic crazy, and an Olympic countdown timer in the square shows the minutes, hours etc until the games begin. This display seemed to have a “Japanese” look to it.

While here I saw lads larking about, and a bottle accidentally dropped, break on the floor.

A young police officer barked orders at them and they stood bolt upright, the fear obvious on their faces.

I presume he ordered the broken glass to be placed in the bin, which they did. They returned to the police officer and waited nervously for him to let them go. After checking the pavement, he shouted at them for a few minutes and ordered them on their way.

A Chinese police officer can decide guilt and punishment for Crimes up to Rape and Murder on the spot. Most people seem more frightened of the Police, than they are of criminals.

As I wandered around Tiananman square, I met lots of friendly people. This chap asked to be photographed with me.

Visiting Beijing for the first time, from his far away village, he had never met anyone with Blond hair.

They actually offered me money to be photographed. I know how hard they work for the bit of money they earn in this country and I obviously refused.

I had known it meant that much to them, I would have lost some weight for this picture :).

beijpic
southgate The imposing Zhengyangmen (South) gate.

Once the gateway between the imperial city and the commoners outside. Its ironic really:

In the 1500’s there were the common people, and the godlike emperor and his dignitaries.

Today there are the common people, and the godlike party members and their assistants.

I can’t see the difference and wonder what the “revolution” was actually for (but then I would, I have always lived in a free country !)

In the daytime, the square is packed.

Visiting it, the day after the 57th anniversary of the revolution didn’t help.

I came back in the evening when it was a little quieter, and was rewarded with this superb shot.

The whole square is lit up during the evening, and is a delight to see, but the Great Hall of the People, was easily the best.

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mewall1 I contacted the downtown backpackers who I can completely recommend.Although I wasn’t staying with them, I asked if they had any trips organized to the great wall.

The were doing a day trip to Jinshanling and Simatai (walking between the 2). It was just the trip I was looking for, and only about £11.

We set off 7am in the morning. I was euphoric with enthusiasm.

Walking along the wall was the thing I had traveled all the way to China to do, and I had waited 30 years of my life to do it !.

The pictures I have seen of the wall, show it shopping-street flat.

The reality is very different, it was very steep, and at some of the towers, you had to jump out of “windows” onto the wall bellow.

steep
wt3 Some of the towers were in very good condition.

My German friend David, told me that Drum and Base parties were quite common on some sections of the wall.

Whilst walking, he realized although thousands of miles from home, a German girl in our party was the sister of his best friend.

I wont bother trying to calculate the odds of that happening, but its the kind of strange and exciting thing that happens when travelling.

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wall1 The rugged terrain all around the wall.

It was pointed out, that military value off the wall, was not just as a barrier.

Horsemen and Chariots could travel along the top of the wall much more quickly than raiders could trek through woodland and undergrowth.

This gave significant strategic advantage to people fighting from the wall.

The Royal seal on one of the Bricks.

When some 1960’s buildings were knocked down recently, in anticipation of the Olympics, dozens of the bricks, contained this seal and must have been stolen from the wall.

brick
wt2 A view from one of the watchtower “windows” showing a section of the wall we had walked along.

The trip was made all the better by superb weather.

Due to layout, certain sections of the wall, were vulnerable to archers.

Here a series of buildings along one side of the wall, provides protection from arrows and spears.

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wall2 The view from the wall, and the sheer length, of what you can see, let alone its total length, is staggering.
I had been told to prepare a packed lunch.

I couldn’t seem to find anywhere that sold sandwiches or anything like that.

I bought a Kentucky fried Chicken meal, kept it in my hotel fridge, and brought it along in a plastic bag.

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wall4 The final section of the wall, was a very steep downhill walk.There were several people selling cans, bottled water and t-shirts along the wall.

I was glad that I had visited the more authentic part of the wall.

Most people visit Badaling which is about 30 minutes from Beijing.

I was told that Badaling was completely rebuilt in 1957 and is a tourist circus.

The Chain Bridge at Simatai.

It wobbled so much, I had to take 4 pictures before I got one that wasn’t blurred.

This was the end of the walk, and like climbing a peak and then walking back down a mountain, was a little sad.

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dinner1 I went out for the evening, with the people I met while walking the wall.They were all staying at the downtown backpackers hostel and were a great bunch, who between them had travelled to nearly every part of the globe.

We had a sit down banquet in a private room, which the hardy travellers negotiated down to £3, including 2 bottles of beer each.

After the meal we went for a drink in a few of the waterside bars next to Houhai Lake.

It was a pretty groovy place, and although I had been walking all day, I had a great time.

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waterbars3 We found a rooftop bar, and drank some Chinese beer.

Charlotte is Canadian and during the day, I had wondered for several hours, who she reminded me of.

In the end I realized it was Donna Moss from the West Wing.

We rounded of the evening by visiting a Cafe/Bar called Salud in the Hutong next to the Downtown backpackers hostel.

It had a great atmosphere and the staff were friendly even though it was late. They played some great music, and actually put the TV on for a customer who wanted to watch football.

The customer (Chinese) had heard I was from Manchester, and immediately started to ask me about United. I hope he believed me when I told him I had no idea.

The picture on the wall, is of the proprietor as a child.

At the end of the night, the bill for 4 people drinking pints for 3 hours was £10 !.

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head On the way home.

The story ends as it began, with me in Beijing airport at night.

As I wander around the airport waiting for my flight, I step onto an escalator, and see this sign in now familiar chinglish.

I remained alert, but the implied service was never offered !.

Visit to Beijing and walk on the Great Wall (1/2).

mewall2 China has always been near the top of my list of places to see and to stand on the great wall would be one of the greatest achievements of my life.I was told the country was in transition and about to change forever. I didn’t want the same thing as happened in Prague, so I booked with Emirates and off I went.
I arrived at the Red Wall hotel at 11pm and immediately setup my laptop.The room had fast (well fast for China) internet connectivity so I was able to keep in touch with my friends and upload my digital pictures each night.The room was spotlessly clean, but in every other respect the hotel was awful, and prompted me to write a letter of complaint.

This is what I look like after 22 hours of travelling !.

beijhot
beijlights The following day I decided to go out exploring.The first things I noticed, was that the crossing light’s in Beijing are largely for show, and nobody takes any notice of them.The trick, is to wait until a local crosses, and match them step for step, across the road. Its also important to look inconspicuous, otherwise you will be accused of stalking :).
Although there are some spectacular buildings and stuff like that in Beijing, small alleyways called Hutongs are the place where most of the interesting stuff is (after all, a department store, is a department store, anywhere in the world, I was looking for the essence of China).Small close knit communities exist in these alley ways, a camaraderie and a help/protect one another attitude, which my Grandma used to speak of in England exists here. hut1
hut3 Its quite amazing, that entire societies exist just a few yards from the main roads.The most authentic shops and restaurants are in these alleyways.You can see from this picture, that someone has painted the tree’s white, to avoid accidents at night (there are no street lights here, and most people travel by bicycle !).
As I followed a few wandering people, I came to this small park.It was obviously the place where the locals go to relax (and these were after all, the people I travelled here to find out about).People stood chatting, a few played cards, and there was the usual throng of Thai Chi practitioners. localspark
hut5 I enjoyed an evening meal, in a family run Hutong Tea House.The whole family were sat mesmerized by the soap opera , which featured a very famous chinese actor they all seemed to like.Once I ordered, the whole family seemed to leap into action, and served me the 3 course meal you can see here, including beer, for £1.50.

The food was superb, although I decided to pass on fried Bee’s !.

Across the street from the restaurant, just to the left of this picture, was a public lavatory.I watched with amazement as an elderly couple, waked across the Hutong in their pyjamas, carrying towels and toothbrushes.I learned from the owner of the cafe that many homes, don’t actually have toilets or running water, and people use the public lavatory as a bathroom. hut4
beijpave Although public transport was pretty good in Beijing, I have always enjoyed walking and decided to go out for a long walk.You can see from this picture, how long some of the streets are in Beijing.
I decided to Visit the military museum as recommended by the rough guide.There were lots of School trips, and outside, children queued to stand on the deck of a Navy missile launcher. milboat
miltank The museum held the largest collection of military ordinance I had ever seen.The tanks and other vehicles were from all over the world (including Britain) they had the same model of tank I had seen outside reunification hall in Saigon.
The Museum showed the real iron fist of communism.This spectacular room, is filled with Jets and Tanks, and in the centre a decommissioned nuclear missile. milrocket
motcycle Its amazing to see how some cultures solve problems common to the whole world.In the UK, if a person suffers from mobility problems, they are normally given a car, retired from work and paid an allowance.In China, a person is issued with one of these vehicles (a kind of one person taxi) and he/she can earn their own living.

Equally, homeless people and the very poor, are paid a small bounty for plastic bottles, aluminium cans and other rubbish.

By making these things a commodity street rubbish is virtually non existent. On one day, I walked for 19 miles, and I didn’t see a single can or bottle.

When I was a youngster, me and mum used to watch Blue Peter.I remember we watched it, when the famous Chinese Panda’s were on it.I decided to visit Beijing Zoo and see them first hand.

I had read criticisms of the Zoo, but I found it to be superb.

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zooboat One exhibit that surprised me, was an enclosure for Alsatian Dogs, which I have never seen in a Western Zoo.A river runs through the centre of the Zoo, and its possible to take a boat tour.It was near here, that I tried to find the Panda enclosure. As nobody spoke English, I removed a soft toy Panda I had purchased as a gift, and started to waive it around to attract attention.

They dismissed me, and I realized they thought I was trying to sell it to them. I found 2 Americans, who were able to help.

China has exported Panda’s to Zoos all over the world. They are considered a symbol of pride and a national treasure in that country.Considering they weren’t actually in the wild, I was delighted to see how happy and playful they were.Each of the Panda’s has an enormous enclosure, and I was extremely lucky to get this picture, just before the Panda got out of the chair. panda
bjduck Its said the 2 things to do when visiting Beijing, are stand on the Great Wall, and eat Beijing Duck.Considering I was going to eat such a delicacy, I took some time and chose an appropriate restaurant. The food was superb.One thing I especially liked about Beijing was the delight people showed, when they received a tip.

My £1 tip, was treated with the elation of a marriage proposal 🙂

I visited the Tiantan Park, to see the Temple of heaven.I was glad I had chosen 8 days for my trip, as it meant I could spend the whole day here.It was one of the most amazing sight’s in Beijing.

Although this picture doesn’t capture its splendour very well, I was trying to show the scale, like most things in Beijing, is massive.

thpark
brothertrees The Brother Trees – a Cypress tree embracing a Pagoda tree in the par.Both trees are symbols of Beijing and are seen as a symbol of friendship and brotherhood, among the Beijing people
The Temple of heaven.Because I had visited on a working day, it was a lot quieter than normal.Everything about the temple relates to numbers and its alignment with energy.

The 3 dome shaped roofs, symbolize Heaven, Earth and Man.

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beijcycle I had expected to see many thousands of bicycles in Beijing, but the scale beggared belief.I had the option to rent one and ride around, but I decided instead to walk, as I find it more relaxing, and I was after all, on holiday.
Yonghe Gong.Bold and Brash, the largest Buddhist temple in Beijing, built in the 1700’s.It was closed for 30 years, and was lucky to escape destruction during the communist revolution.

Not massively authentic, most of the monks here are pro government.

It was here that China’s choice for the Panchen Lama (2nd only to the Dalai Lama) was sworn in, in 1995.

Just prior to this, the Dalai Lama’s own choice 6 year old Gedhum Choekyi Nyima “disappeared”.

He remains the worlds youngest political prisoner.

yg1
chinglish My first sighting of “chinglish” (short for Chinese English) while walking around the temple.The problem is, some Chinese people learn English and then translate it literally. This can have hilarious consequences, when these fraises are put onto street signs.A sign saying “please don’t disrespect the grass” was my favorite of the whole trip.
Near the Wavu Pavilion, which features an 18 meter high wooden Buddha carved from one Sandlewood tree.It took 3 years just to transport it from Tibet. For reasons not explained, we weren’t allowed to photograph it.Trust me, I have carved spoons, and this thing was spectacular !. yg2
fcmoat Forbidden City also known as the Gugon or Imperial Palace.I took this picture, from across the moat just before dusk.
The formidable outer wall.The city was built in the 1500’s and for 5 centuries was the home of 24 ming and quang emperors.Ordinary chinese were forbidden from even approaching its outer walls, hence its name. fcow
fc1 The Large courtyard where the emperor would address his courtiers.100,000 people would sit here, at the Emperors pleasure.It’s next to the chambers which hold the 11,099 volume encyclopaedia commissioned by Yongle.
A rare occasion when I found someone who spoke English and got them to photograph me.I originally thought the Chinese, quite impolite, as they constantly pushed in.I realized from my guide book, that in a city this size, “British” style queuing just doesn’t exist.

When I started to push in myself (which felt quite uncomfortable at first) I found the people I “bumped” didn’t seem to mind.

fc3
fchouse2 This was the home of a concubine, with its own courtyard. Her servants and guards would live in buildings nearby.The large iron bowl outside the door, was used for storing water, in the event of a fire.During winter, quilts would be used to keep the water from freezing.
The Forbidden city has Eight hundred buildings and nine thousand chambers.They are mostly connected through chambers and corridors like this one.Its normally difficult to take a picture at a popular tourist site, without getting some people in the picture somewhere.

Here, it was so busy, it was difficult to take a picture without getting a photographer in it.

fcwalkway1
fchouse1 A house that belongs to one of the emperors advisers.Much more elaborate than the residence of the concubine.Residences like this one, next to the imperial garden, were much sought after by courtiers.

Saigon (now H Chi Minh City) famous of the Vietnam war.

plane We arrive at Tan Son Nhat Airfield. The American built Airport was first thing grunts would see upon arrival in Vietnam.We had a private tour throughout our visit (as we did during the all of our SEA trip) and were delighted to be driven around in a private car, with our own personal guide.

The city was renamed Ho Chi Minh City, hours after it was taken by the North in 1975, but practically everyone still calls it Saigon.

We visit the war remnants museum, which contains tanks, helicopters, planes and bombs from the American War (its isn’t called the Vietnam war in that country).

The museum had originally been named the museum of American war crimes.Not many American tourists wanted to visit a place like that. Its name had been changed.

This bicycle had been owned by a female supporter of Ho Chi Minh.

Although the name of the museum had changed, its content hadn’t.

She had been tortured horribly whilst in prison. The exhibit said simply that after she had been released she had been incapable of performing the role of wife or mother.

Sarah and I chose not to think about what that meant.

bike
shrap Bomb casings.The explosive inside ripped easily through the 2 inch thick steel casing.

During the war, the Americans had dropped 8,000,000 tons of bombs on the country – more bombs than the allies dropped in the whole of World War 2.

The shrapnel from this must have been devastating.

Various forms off the M79 grenade launch.It fires high explosive grenades, and in operation functions much like a pump action shotgun.

Although designed as a counter ambush weapon, it had on occasion been used as an interrogation tool.

There was a horrible picture of a person who had been shot with one (I’ve chosen not to show it, but you can Google and find it if you wish).

grenlaunch
ndcath Notre Dame Cathedral, the largest Catholic Church in Vietnam.
The central post office a beautiful building.The Cathedral and the Post office are both in the main square in Saigon, which during the war was named the JFK square. po1
po2 Inside the post office.A person who had worked there for years and retired, worked freelance inside the Post office as a translator.

On the back wall is a picture of Ho Chi Minh.

People talk about him in the present tense even though he passed away some time ago.

He is practically worshipped in Vietnam.

Cholon, Saigon’s Chinatown district.Mopeds are the main form of transport in Vietnam (for example, there are 3m people in Hanoi, and 2m motorbikes !).

During rush hour it can be terrifying as tens of thousands of them invade every part of the city.

chinatown
chinmark The Binh Tay Chinese Market.Originally built by a wealthy Chinese business man who started life as a homeless orphaned beggar.

He later amassed enough wealth to be able to give the Market to the city as a gift.

It was absolute mayhem in here.

They sold everything you could think of, and actually had dried sharks fins for making soup.

Thien Hau Pagoda.The largest Buddhist temple in Saigon.

There are so many things to see and do on a trip like this, Sometimes its nice to visit somewhere quiet and relax.

thienhau
music We stayed at the Rex Hotel on the main square.In the evening, we had a traditional 7 course Vietnamese meal.

Traditional music and dancing were performed while we ate.

The rooftop bar of the Rex Hotel is practically an institution in Saigon as it has amazing views of the city.During the war, the Rex hotel was used as officers quarters.

We took a small laptop with us, and were able to connect to the Internet in all of our hotels.

It was also useful to research the things we had seen/were going to see.

rtbar
pfield The next day, we head out in search of adventure.One of the many paddy fields that panorama’d our journey.

I found out on my trip why rice is grown this way. Rice can grow underwater, but weeds and other vegetation can’t.

Instead of using weed killer, just grow the rice underwater, and let nature do the work.

The image of the young girl fleeing a burning village, covered in napalm, immortalised the war.This is the section of Trang Bang Road (named after the bombed village) where that picture was taken.

Today, Kim Phuc lives in Canada and works for the United Nations. Her brother still lives here and sells burgers from a van a quarter of a mile away.

The reality of the story, is the Vietnamese Air force were responsible for the attack The Americans were not involved at all.

girlroad
cdtemple1 The famous Cai Dao temple.Cai Dao fuses Buddhist, Taoist, Confusionist and Catholic beliefs.

The 9 levels of enlightenment are symbolised by 9 steps within the temple.

Each level is guarded by 2 dragons and the top level features the symbolic eye of wisdom.

On the temple grounds are schools and hospitals for the followers of the religion.

Cai Dao is a multi faith religion, unique to Vietnam.Apprentices initially wear white robes, then progress to either red, blue or yellow robes dependent on the discipline of the religion that they pursue.

Sections of the temple are devoted to Victor Hugo !.

cdtemple2
tdoor1 We went to see the famous Cu Chi Tunnels, 90km from Saigon.During the war, the Vietcong had setup a series of tunnels, which they used to conduct covert warfare.

We met our guide (dressed in full revolutionary garb) and were led down a narrow trail, into the Jungle.

There were swimming pool sized craters one either side of the path, where B52 bombers had left their mark.

We stopped to look at a diagram of the tunnels, then watched a propaganda film.

Here we were shown a section of ground, and invited to try and find the tunnel entrance.

After spending a few minutes, and finding nothing, our revolutionary, finds the trapdoor easily, and climbs in to his waist.The tunnels went down 3 levels, and even the first level, 3 – 4 metres bellow the surface, could stand the weight of a 50 ton Tank driving over it.

During the war, the 25th Infantry division were based here (right on top of the tunnel network), didn’t know of the tunnels existence, and could never work out where the sniper fire was coming from.

Estimates at the length of the tunnels, vary from 75 – 200 miles.

tdoor2
broom We get a chance to go into one of the tunnelsThey were amazingly equipped, with mess halls, sleeping quarters, operating room, printing press and even a small cinema.

A briefing room, with replica people taking the role of wartime commanders.

On the surface, innocent looking termite mounds, were hollowed out to provide an air supply to the tunnels.

A similar technique, in reverse, took cooking fire smoke miles away from the actual tunnel network to prevent detection.

Many of the original tunnels, had booby traps to thwart any attempt at compromising them.We travelled down to a 2nd level tunnel. These could withstand direct overhead bombing from a B52.

They were cramped and hot, and the air was very thin.

I can only imagine the physical and mental toughness of the people who lived in them.

tunnel
hcmsand Our guide Long, demonstrating Ho Chi Minh Sandals, made from tyres (they were overly large for demonstration purposes).Ho Chi Minh wore a pair of these sandals throughout the war.

They were practical and tough, like the people who wore them !.

We were given a sample of food the tunnel dwellers would eat. It looked like banana, and tasted of sweet potato (grim!).

They only received rice once a week, as a treat.

Next we had a tour of various forms of traps. Some of them, looked absolutely terrifying.A tiger trap, is just a big hole with punji sticks in it, right through to small portable devices, which could be carried, and then deployed along a trail.

The most ingenious thing I saw, was how they had dismantled unexploded bombs and used them as booby traps. In this way, it was possible for lightly armed fighters to ambush an entire tank.

trap
m60 We were given a chance to fire authentic Vietnam war firearms.I got to fire an M60 heavy machine gun.

I have seen them on the television, but the power of one of those things is devastating.

You point it at the target, pull the trigger, and there isn’t much of the target left !.

We had more superb food at a restaurant near the fashionable Dong Khoi shopping area.The exchange rate for Dong, was such that £41 would purchase a million Dong.

Notes of less than 200 Dong, are worth less, than post-it notes and are frequently used for this purpose.

dinner
reuni The former presidential palace, now named re-unification hall.The presidential palace was very 60’s is in style, and had been the site of many parties and fashionable social gatherings.
A terrace on the roof was used for entertaining (JFK had attended parties here).Just underneath this, an American UH1 (huey) helicopter, on the rooftop helicopter landing pad. copter
presdesk Its maintained exactly as it was on the morning, in 1975 when the war ended.The presidential desk.
Our guide long, with Sarah in the basement tunnels underneath the palace.They lead to the telecom and war rooms.

It is rumoured that a secret tunnel allows people to leave the palace unnoticed but the government will not confirm or deny this.

bunker
radio The bunker reminded me of the building at the end of Terminator 3, with 30 year old computers.A “portable” radio system, for use when the palace was attacked/under siege.
America first sent troops to Vietnam on the 8/3/65. They left 10 years later.At 11:30am on the 30th of April, 1975, NV tanks crashed through those gates, and Saigon fell to NV forces.

The acting president (who had only been in office for 26 hours) surrendered.

gate
tank Many people remember the scene from TV pictures.This is the actual tank that arrived at the palace.
This is the view from inside the palace.It shows the view from the flagpole where the flag was hung.

It marked the end of a war for independence which had begun in 1945 with the French, and was finally over.

America lost 65,000 troops, Vietnam lost 3,000,000. Today, 2 out of 3 Vietnamese, are under 30.

flagpole
chicken On a lighter note, we had lunch afterwards, and the restaurant had made up a pineapple in the shape of a chicken, which was smart.

Pattaya, elephants, guns and cross dressers

patbay We arrive on the first stage of our tour of South East Asia, in Pattaya, where we are to be married.

Pattaya is 147km SE of Bangkok, and is Thailand’s most successful beach resort.

Most of the people I saw in Thailand, used mopeds and motor bikes as transport.

Travelling in this country, like most of Asia, is an exciting experience.

Sarah’s Dad drives this 4×4, which is easily the safest form of transport.

dadcar
patroad The beach road and walking street, are the most “happening” parts of Pattaya.

We drive along the road, and enjoy the view out to Sea.

We drove up the coast to Jomptien beach to escape the crowds.

we have lunch at a beach side restaurant listening to the sound of the waves.

The steak here, was delicious.

dinner
goldbud We visited a monument to celebrate the kings birthday.

The Royal family are revered in Thailand, criticising them in public, will almost certainly end in violence or arrest !.

In the evening, we went around a few of the bars.

One of them, is semi famous for look alike singers.

The main highlight of the show, was Tina Turner and her backing singers.

tina
elvis Although he was obviously Thai, “Elvis” really had the kings moves, and definitely got the crowd going.
At the end of the show, everyone got up dancing, and had a go at the Limbo. limbo1
limbo2 The girls were a lot more supple than us, but we had a go anyway.
Frank had only arrived that day, it was great to see him again.

He started working in Bangkok, and made his way to Pattaya to join us.

frank
waterfront Along the beach, heading out of Pattaya,

I walked about 8 miles along the shore, until I came to this building.

Pattaya is well known as an adult playground.

A nearby gun club, gave me the opportunity to try my hand at shooting.

I fired a few practice shots with a .32 revolver before trying out some more exciting guns.

shooting
colt45 The colt 45 Model 1911 (so named as it had been designed in 1911).

It has heavier calibre bullets, that give a real kick when shooting.

The downside is, its less accurate that smaller calibre guns, and can fire less bullets between re-loading.

I went back the next day, to try a different gun.

The Berreta 92 (used in Lethal Weapon, Die Hard and just about everything since).

The smaller calibre rounds give less of a kick and are more accurate as you can see from this picture.

It can also hold a lot more bullets.

ber92
shen Sarah and I go out for the evening.

Here Sarah sits in an appropriately named Baat Taxi.

You get one circuit of beach road and 2nd road, for 10 Baat (about 15 pence).

When I first met Sarah, she had just returned from a trip to see her dad in Pattaya.

She told me enthusiastically about an Irish bar called Shenanigans, and how much she enjoyed it there.

Here 3 years later, we sit together, in the same bar.

The Beef and Guinness Pie was superb.

We drove out of Pattaya, to visit the Elephant village.

They actually have a special tower with stairs, to enable you to climb onto the elephant more easily.

elestat
elejs Sarah and I, on our elephant.
The Elephant master normally sits on the Elephants neck.

Unfortunately, on this occasion, he had to answer a call of nature.

For 10 minutes, Frank was convoyed around the forest at the whim of the Elephant, as it searched the forest for food !.

frankaban
elewater Part of the trek, took us through deep water.
My favourite animals, after Elephants, are Larr Gibbons (I first saw them at the Welsh Mountain Zoo.)

They are so well balanced, that when they walk, they have to hold their arms above their shoulders.

Imagine my delight when we got to actually meet them in the forest.

lg1
lg2 As we were led on a trek through the jungle, by our guide, one of the Gibbons (which were really friendly) hitched a ride with Sarah.

Our guide showed us different types of plants, to cure upset stomachs and other ailments.

Especially interesting was “shy” grass, which closes, when its touched.

Me on a tropical rope bridge, as we trekked through the jungle.

It was here, that for no particular reason I learned how to tell real silk from imitation.

If you burn a small piece of it, nylon and the like will shrivel, where silk will turn to Ash.

ropebridge
raft Although this looks like a lakeside bar, its actually a raft, which we took across the lake.

We drank beer during the crossing and Sarah gave the Gibbons some Cherry aid.

Many people know of my interest in bushcraft.

Here we visit a large bamboo shelter.

When I say large, a hundred people could congregate in it, with ease.

shelter
construction Our guide shows us the construction of the shelter.

Flat pieces of bamboo are woven together to make the walls, which are amazingly robust.

We are driven back to the centre for lunch, in an ox cart.

25 mph doesn’t sound like much, but in a vehicle with no suspension, and wooden wheels, it was exhilarating.

oxcart
storm The night before we flew out to Saigon, the worst storm I had ever seen, was brewing.

The locals must be used to it, as Ray just laughed.

Three days on the Island of Koh Chang.

landing After flying from bangkok airport we landed at Trat airport on the first leg of our journey to Koh Chang.

The flight was very comfortable and refreshments onboard were a lot nicer than I had expected.

We were driven to the airport “terminal” by jeep and then jumped in a minibus (300 THB) for the rest of the journey to Koh Chang.

I really like the elephants made from bushes that adorned the runway.

Our minibus stopped at the ferry port Ao Thammachat.

Typically, nobody knew when the boat was going to sail, so we just stood around waiting.

After a while, seemingly because someone in charge felt like it our ferry left port.

One of the cars we lodged quite near the back of the ferry and frank commented that we could be embarking on a 2nd Herald of free enterprise.

We get our first glimpse of Koh Chang at Ao Sup Pa Rod – Pineapple Bay in English.

I had been told there was a restaurant near the port where you could catch your own fish. Unfortunately, we didn’t hang around at this end and I never got chance to visit it.

wkc
hotelview We arrive at White Sands Beach and check into our hotel, the Alina Grande.

Located on the first floor, we had this spectacular view.

One evening when there was a party going on downstairs Frank and I sat out on this beautiful balcony.

It was late afternoon when we arrived, so we relaxed around the hotel and then went out for the evening.

I had researched the trip extensively and all of the web guides recommended having dinner on the beach.

There were loads of restaurant to choose from. In the end we couldn’t decide so just picked one at random, sat down and got stuck into some beers.

The catching up of old times began in earnest.

beachdinner2
beachdinner1 The food when it arrived, was superb.

I had Chicken and beef, Frank had something Thai.

I thought the chefs looked pretty cool with there skirts on (not sure I would have had the courage to wear one though).

They served Fish from this traditional boat.

The next day, we go for a wander along the beach. beachfront
bud As we wandered further I saw this sign.

It was good to have my old friend Frank around, and the line about should always have a buddy, seemed poignant at that moment.

We continue along the beach which really was spectacular.

An area on the beach had 2 trees close together and a scantily clad western girl lay sunbathing there, so that everyone had to walk around here.

Frank and I commented that even in the worlds most beautiful places, there’s always a spanner around and I’m not talking about one in a workshop.

wsbeach1
huts The beaches obviously circles the island with roads and resorts.

Inland a tropical rainforest which reaches quite high altitudes is illustrated in this picture.

We were staying in a hotel across the road from the beach. More expensive hotels were actually on the beach and the cheapest form of accommodation were huts.

The nightly cost of the huts varied with the facilities available.

We walked as far up the beach as possible, before reaching a rocky outcrop.

It was the most peaceful part of the beach.

emptybeach
bfhostel We found this voodoo theme’d hotel (a collection of huts in actual fact).

At high tide, it was just a few metres from the water.

Each room/hut had a balcony with a hammock hung up on it.

It had more character than any acclamation I saw on the island (although I’m not sure how comfortable it would have been to stay in).

Frank spots a jelly fish.

Were British in the end, and knocking 40 weren’t exactly going to put on a pair of speedo’s.

jfish
table It was a warm day and we visited this small cafe on a quieter part of the beach.

A couple of beers and the usual chat about family and stuff like that.

Listening to the waves splash against the shore was a relaxing experience I don’t get to enjoy very often.

As we sit, the Sun heads towards the horizon and the end of another beautiful day.

In the evening, we go out for a Curry and then visited a Bar.

There were girls in the bar, trying to strike up a conversation and worse.

Not really my thing. The sort of lead girl, asked me if I wanted to play pool. I knew from experience, it would be simpler to put all of my money into an envelope and hand it to her.

We started playing connect 4. I won the first game, then I was shocked to see that she had won the 2nd game.

She quickly realised that I was surprised and in the next few games, she played really badly.

sunset
connect4 I was convinced that she was deliberately losing. Without being judgemental, I am a 20 year experienced engineer and she a bar girl. How could she possibly beat me ?.

After a quick discussion with Frank, I bet her 400 Batt, that she couldn’t beat me.

She looked a little cautious. I explained that if I won, she wouldn’t have to give me anything and that Frank would hold the money while we played.

Her expression changed. Although I’ve never seen it, I imagine, as an assassin loads a sniper rifle, he has a similar expression to the one she had.

In less than 8 moves, she had beaten me.

Chatting on the way home, the ever wise Frank explains – There are literally hundreds of thousands of Bar girls in Thailand. They don’t usually receive much of an education, but connect 4 requires intelligence.

With that number of girls, statistically, many of them could be scientists or Dr’s. I think you’ve just been beaten by one of them.

In many cases their family’s don’t know what they do, so I didn’t take any pictures.

The following day we decided to get out and explore some more of the Island. walk2
walk5 Wanted to get a jeep but we had a limited budget and costs on the Island were a lot higher than Bangkok.

We decided to wander along the coastal road, as it gave the best views of the Ocean.

There were a number of small Island just of the coast of Koh Chang.

It was possible to go on a boat trip and visit some of the Island.

From here we could see people canoeing to the Island. This must have been smart, as you would effectively have the whole island to yourself.

We stopped here for a can of coke and then continued on our way.

fisland
walk3 We left the road and started to trek through the Jungle (views weren’t as nice, but the experience was much more pleasant)

As we trekked we crossed various sort of vegetation and landscape.

At times there was no path as such and we just walked through fields like this one. walk4
walk1 On other occasions we walked through the jungle undergrowth.
We arrive at Bang Bao. A small town literally on legs.

Shops, restaurants bars all connected by wooden walkway.

I tried not to look down at the water, as rubbish was simply thrown down there and taken out with the tide

There were mattresses, nappy’s and all sorts of things there.

port
waterhuts Further away, this hotel was made up of a collection of stilted huts connected by a walkway.

I wish we had more time there, I would love to have stayed in one of these.

The lighthouse at Bang Bao.

The colour of the ocean, the colour of the sky and the salt air all combined for one of life’s special moments.

lighthouse
mbus The following day, back to Bangkok. We decided to save money and travel by minibus.

Frank calculates that a 5 hour journey to Pattaya a stopover there and then 2 hours back to Bangkok will work.

The minibus was at least air conditioned, but confusion about who was traveling and who wasn’t made it leave 90 minutes late.

Still we met some pretty cool guys from the North-east of England and had a good chat with them on the way.

The minibus rolls onto the ferry.

We get out and sit on the viewing platform.

A last look at Koh Chang.

ferry
pattraffic I had visited Pattaya before and spent 9 days there (one of the happiest times of my life).

This was a bit different. We weren’t staying in the Woodlands this time.

We wandered around looking for somewhere cheap and ended up in some flop house called the Carlton.

Never mind it had a bath so I got cleaned up; got some sleep and we headed out for a couple of drinks.

I got this action shot of the Ocean road at night.

I had walked down the famous walking street on my previous visit during the daytime.

I had read that the place came alive at night and that was certainly true.

The usual fayre of restaurants/takeaways selling just about every type of cuisine, souvenir stalls of every kind, the usual adult entertainment and of course a couple of Irish bars which we made straight for.

wstreet2
football While walking along the street we saw this young boy who had spectacular football and balance skills.

He immediately caught everyone’s eye. I quickly composed myself as I have seen pickpocket distractions like this in other countries before.

I shouldn’t have worried, he had a sign saying he needed money to start a foot balling career (I thought it only took talent ?) and asked for donations.

Since his “act” was pretty good, we put 20 bat in his bucket.

I fulfilled a personal ambition by visiting a bar that had live Thai Boxing.

Neither competitor appeared to be fighting for freedom or the love of a good woman, if you know what I mean.

That said it was entertaining. At the end of the match, their “trainer” brought the victor out and we were invited to tip him.

Minutes later he returned with the loser expecting the same treatment. My western culture has a problem with rewarding failure in this way.

I decided that since the man had been beaten like a gong for my entertainment he deserved something.

The following day we caught the bus back to Bangkok.

tboxing

I fly back to Bangkok to catch up with Frank in 2008.

ada Having promised to go and see my old mate Frank at his new home in Bangkok for nearly 2 years, I was feeling quite guilty.

But that doesn’t achieve anything. so I fired up Expedia and booked a flight with Ethihad and stopped over in Abu Dhabi airport.

Bangkok traditional name is Krunk Thep or city of Angels.

Its short for Krung Thep Mahanakhon Amon Rattanakosin Mahinthara Ayuthaya Mahadilok Phop Noppharat Ratchathani Burirom Udomratchaniwet Mahasathan Amon Piman Awatan Sathit Sakkathattiya Witsanukam Prasit – the longest place name in the world.

Frank and Na met me at the airport, and we headed towards the hotel that I had booked for the first night (the excellent Siam Society hotel and resort).

I had forgotten the hotel documentation and even with Na’s help we were unable to find it the first time.

We went back to Frank and Na’s and they showed me around their condo. Collected the info on line and we took a taxi to the hotel, checked in and then headed for Town.

A had seen quite a lot of Bangkok, on my 4 previous trips there, but Frank found some things I hadn’t seen, and we wandered around.

The Baiyoke Sky tower II is the highest building in the Kingdom of Thailand.

stower
tuktuk There were some interesting (and some strange) things inside the tower, which is also a hotel.

I realised just how much living in Thailand had changed Frank.

I wanted to be photographed driving this tuck tuck. I asked Frank if we needed to anyone’s permission, and he just said get in it and ill take the picture.

He certainly has become a lot more practical and direct while living in Thailand.

On the 84th floor is a spectacular revolving roof deck, with 360 degree views of Bangkok.

It was from this vantage point, that you could really see just how much smog there is in Bangkok.

It was quite amazing to see the sprawling city.

stowerview
ksroad One place I have always put of visiting, is Khao San (pronounced Kow-San) road.

Years ago, it was a haven for travellers and backpackers, but today is just a tacky collection of hair dying and fortune tellers.

You can buy fake student cards and even University degree’s here.

It was nice to pop into an Irish bar and have a pint, but aside from that, I didn’t see anything that made me want to ever go back.

As we walked along, Frank pointed out this Police vehicle, which in the UK would be called a meat wagon.

Apparently, criminals are “collected” off the street and packed into this thing in the baking evening heat.

The human rights of criminals, don’t seem to be a high priority in Thailand.

policevan
barge These enormous barges travel up and down the Chao Phraya river each day.

In some cases a relatively small boat could tow 6 or 7 of these things.

We went on a boat trip. One of the touts at the waterfront tried to over charge us. Frank was all over it.

His point was I think a fair one. The normal price for the boat trip is 20p. Just because you have money, why should you pay £2.

We wandered around some more (I’ve seen most of the sites of Bangkok, so today I just wanted to walk around and just enjoy being there).

We jumped on the skytrain. I took this picture, as it captures several of the things that are synonymous with Bangkok.

On the left top, a superb building left unfinished after the problems with the Asian markets a few years ago.

On the right, some traditional buildings and loads of trees and vegetation.

On the left bottom, some old ramshackle buildings where the locals live in “budget” accommodation.

building
tl In the evening, we went to an Irish Bar and I met Franks friend Matt and his lovely girlfriend Anne.

Later in the evening we had chicken and rice known locally as khao pad gai which a grew to love during the trip.

Frank and I left for Koh Chang the following day.

On the evening that we returned to Bangkok, there was some kind of Buddhist ceremony taking place.

There is a temple right next to the condo and Ann and Na wanted to visit it.

We waited outside, and were presented with this strange scene.

A series of mechanical monks (basically clothing dummy’s with traditional robes put on them) rotate around on a revolving platform, you take turns at throwing money in the bowls they are holding.

They reminded me of something out of Dr Who.

As all the bars were closed, we spent the evening wandering around the local area.

monks
ele Matt had a day of work the following day, and we all decided to go out. We drove around the city in style, in his car (watch a video of driving in Bangkok).

Our first stop, was the Erawan Museum. Built by Lek Viriyaphant a wealthy Thai eccentric, who had also been responsible for the Sanctuary of truths which I had seen whilst walking along the coast of Pattaya.

The huge bronze sculpture modelled on Airavata, the heavenly elephant of Hindu mythology, stands on a base pedestal.

The pedestal is decorated with millions of tiny tiles enamelled in the fashion of Thai Benjarong ceramics.

The museum holds a priceless collection of Thai art and Craft and is modelled on Airavata, the heavenly elephant of Hindu mythology.

Tours of the museum start in the lower level of the pedestal, which houses the oldest artefacts.

Unfortunately now photographs were permitted in the lower level.

The upper level of the pedestal is dominated by an elaborate double staircase, also decorated in Benjarong porcelain.

The structure is surrounded by tranquil gardens, waterfalls and statues.

whole are is considered very lucky by local Thai people (most of the people in the museum were Thai, there were very few American, Japanese or British tourists, and those that were weren’t in large groups).

It is rumoured that a girl went here and prayed, and a few minutes later, she bought a lottery ticket that made her a millionaire.

Not sure if that’s true, but lottery ticket salesmen didn’t seem in a hurry to dispel it.

stairs
spoons A close up of the decoration of the staircase shows these oriental spoons and bowls put to good effect.

From here, its possible to walk up a spiral staircase in one of the Elephants legs and go higher into the structure.

In a sort of anti chamber with beautifully made wood panelling.

A window at the side, shows some of the gardens and fountains surrounding the statue (and provides a pretty good centre piece for a picture of the lovely Na).

window
top Further up the stairs, was this celestial altar with Buddha’s and religious artefacts.

With its light blue and gold decorated walls following the contour of the elephant, the chapel has a rather ethereal feel.

Off the temples I have visited around the world this was one of the most relaxing, and I lingered a while in there once I had seen everything.

After the elephant museum, we went to see the ancient city or as its know locally Mauang Boran.

It houses a collection of the Thailand’s most significant historical sites, buildings and structures.

Some of the structures some are actual size, but others have been scaled down to a 3rd of their original size.

This room was part of a re-construction of an entire Thai village.

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bike The ancient City is more than 200 acres in size.

We travelled around in Matt’s car, but many people toured it by bicycle.

It is constructed in the shape of Thailand. Each of the structures, is positioned in the park relative to where the original structure resides in Thailand.

One of the 109 sites represented here, the Pavilion of enlightenment. poe1
poe2 Of all the amazing buildings this was my personal favourite.
It’s recommended to spend a whole day there.

We only hung around for a couple of hours, so I never got to research the historical significance of the site.

You will just have to take my word for how astounding it was to be there.

poe3
sala Sala of Ramayana.
A traditional Thai house village house. tradhouse
deer One of the wild deer that live in the Ancient City.

The largest outdoor museum in the world, it felt all the more authentic, to have animals like this, just wandering around.

The top of the temple provides this spectacular view of the Ancient City.

In 1962, following a serious dispute between Cambodia and Thailand over ownership of the temple, the International Court of Justice in the Hague ruled that it belonged to Cambodia.

view
temple This building was probably the most spectacular in the whole park.

I never actually found out what it was called, so if your reading this and you know, please email me.

The floating village.

This isn’t actually a reconstruction, the original buildings were dismantled, moved here and then re-constructed in meticulous detail.

I really enjoyed being in the Ancient city. I love to explore, and it was like being able to explore an entire country and all its history in an afternoon.

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lunchfvillage We decide to take some refreshments.

Na has some sort of drink in a coco nut.

Just like in a real floating market, there were traders, plying their wares from boats (although these were more likely to be souvenirs than rice or meat). fvillage2
seaside We left the ancient city, and went to visit Bangkok Pier.

I had never actually thought about it before, be Bangkok, is right next to the sea.

The place is owned by the Army (the Thai army have all sorts of assets and a General for example, can run several businesses whilst working for the government).

The main drive up to the Pier had the largest collection of Seagulls I had ever seen in 1 place.

You were able to buy food to feed them, but there were literally thousands of them, flying around in a circle to keep coming back, to get more food.

birds
boat On the last afternoon before my flight home and what had been a superb trip.#

Frank and I take a boat into town; the same boat that Frank normally takes to work in the morning.

In my minds eye, I had this idea of a serene relaxing trip along the water.

It didn’t happen that way. They pull up plastic Tarps on each side of the boat, so you cant see out.

The engine is dirty and the gearbox long past it sell by date, so the screaming and clattering of the engine and the pungent smell of fuel in my nostrils are my main memories of the trip.

We get off the boat and just wander around looking at things.

We eat an enormous fried Chicken meal in one of the shopping centres that would feed 10 people and cost next to nothing.

We wander through a market. The stench of rotten meat came close to reuniting me with said meal for 10.

We continue walking and Frank shows me this amazing scene just near his condo.

To the left of the picture, a banana tree is literally growing out of the pavement.

A brilliant trip, I would like to thank Na, Frank Anne and Matt for making me so welcome and I promise i’ll be back soon.

btree

Exploring the Ancient City of Machu Picchu.

memp Having completed the Inca Trail, had a shower, and spent the night in a comfortable bed, we are given a whole day, to explore the amazing Lost City of Machu Picchu.
The train carrying day trippers, arrives around 10am.Our Guide suggests getting the early bus, so that we can get there, when its practically deserted.

I was quite looking forward to a lie in, but adventure called.

It was dark as we queue ‘d to get on the bus from Aguas Calientes.

bus
arrival You can see just how quiet it was, when we arrived.Yale professor Hiram Bingham discovered the ruins buried beneath dense undergrowth in 1911.

The first sight of Machu Picchu is almost magical. The temples, fields, terraces, and baths appear to be part of the hillside itself.

Separated into three areas – agricultural, urban, and religious – the structures are arranged so that the function of the buildings matches the form of their surroundings.

As we look across the valley, I see the famous Putucusi (2,600m). I prefer its local name, “happy mountain”.Its shape reminded me of earlier in the trip when we visited Coricancha.

The Incas had been forced into Roman Catholicism, and painted religious pictures with women with strange shaped dresses.

These were actually the shape of mountains like this one, which the Inca’s originally worshipped.

happymountain
sunrise The Sunrise of Machu Picchu.I have always found anything involving the Sun rising/setting over anything famous, to be a let down. This was different.

As I took this picture, a person with a bald head was standing nearby, and the Sun shining of his head, was blinding.

The Temple of the Condor is ingeniously created from a natural rock formation resembling the outspread wings of a condor in flight.On the floor of the temple is this rock carved in the shape of the condor’s head and neck feathers.

Historians speculate that the head of the condor was used as a sacrificial altar.

condorstone
tomb The Royal Tomb.A mummy was found under here.
Our guide explained that a double doorway like this (with an inner and outer doorway) was an indicator, that the person who lived here was of significant importance. doubledoor
round2 The Temple of the Sun (on the right) and surrounding buildings, showing the tongue and groove construction used by the Inca’s.
The temple of the Sun is one of the most recognised ruins in Machu Picchu.It was explained to me, but I never completely understood, why it was round. round1
botgarden Botanical Garden.A modern and not particularly inspiring selection of plants in a moderate sized flowerbed.

It was still nice to some of the local flowers we had passed on the Inca Trail.

Central Plaza, a large grassy field that separates the Sacred Plaza and Intiwatana from the more commonplace areas on the far side. building2
building1 The Sacred Plaza.You can see the array of different types of building in this shot.

It sort of captures this diversity shapes within Machu Picchu.

Next to the Principal Temple is the Temple of Three Windows, named by Hiram Bingham for its three identical, trapezoidal windows that open into the main plaza. 3windows
goodwall The Principal Temple inside the Sacred Plaza is an example of excellent Inca stonemasonry, with its large stone blocks polished smooth and joined perfectly.The Inca used no mortar to hold their walls in place; they relied upon precisely cut stones, geometry, and female and male joints in the corners and foundations.
Their best-built structures withstand the passing of centuries, and even multiple earthquakes, without suffering.The jumbling of the stones in one corner is due to the settling of the earth over the years, and not to any defect in construction. badwall
condor With my camera on maximum zoom, I get this (admittedly small) picture of a Condor, flying over Machu Picchu.
The Centrepiece of Machu Picchu. Intiwatana or “hitching post of the sun” is a carved rock pillar whose four corners are oriented toward the four cardinal points.The Inca were accomplished astronomers, and used the angles of the pillar to predict the solstices.

The Intiwatana at Machu Picchu is the only one of its kind not lopped off by the Spanish conquerors, who made a point of destroying all implements of Inca religion

During the filming of a beer advert, a crane, dropped a 1000lb weight onto it, and it was damaged (not badly, but this is a priceless relic).

Its now cordoned off, with rope, and you aren’t allowed to touch it. This is a shame, as many people believe it connects heaven and earth.

sacredrock
smallmountain In the background Huayna Picchu or little peak.Its possible to climb up here (it takes an hour to the top) and get spectacular views of Machu Picchu.

Problem is, only a certain number are allowed to do it, and like a nightclub, once a certain number are there, everybody has to wait until someone comes out.

This means you can end up standing there for ages doing nothing.

At the bottom of the picture is a small rock, with is said to be an exact replica of the mountain (not sure how much I believe that).

Our guide Carlos (no, this man doesn’t need the toilet).The prison complex stands directly behind the temple, and is comprised of human-sized niches and an underground maze of dungeons.

According to historical chronicles that documented similar Inca prison sites, an accused citizen would be shackled into the niches for up to 3 days to await the deliberation of his fate.

He could be put to death for such sins as laziness, lust, or theft. Carlos wasn’t guilty of any these, so we let him out after a few minutes of laughing.

guide
earthstone At the far end of Machu Picchu is the Sacred Rock, an object common to every Inca village.Many people today feel that Machu Picchu is one of the Earth’s magnetic focal points, and carries an inherent spiritual or metaphysical power.

Indeed, it is difficult to sit at the edge of the Sacred Plaza overlooking the Urubamba River below, the stone temples and plazas to the front, and the mountain peaks of Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu to the left and right, and not feel the magic.

I was too tired to feel an “energy” I just wanted to sit down.

After a couple of hours, we decide to wander back to Aguas Calientes.Danny’s enlightened face, illustrates that the morning had been enlightening.

The road used by the bus downhill zigs and zags, but the path, runs in a straight line through a series of forests.

One of our group decided to travel on the coach. We joked about how funny it would be if he passed us on the way.

At that exact moment, he did.

walkback
river As we continue along the road, we see this wild river.If you look carefully, you can see a series of planks held in place with rocks, used as a bridge.

As an engineer, I am comfortable with improvisation, but I wouldn’t have trusted my life, to that construction.

To the right of the track, this VW camper van had come off the road some years before.We couldn’t find out any details, I just remember hoping that nobody was hurt. vw
town The main street of Aguas Calientes, where the train from Cusco cuts through the centre of the City.The girls did some more shopping, and Dan and I grabbed a table and relaxed with a couple of drinks (and no food).
I walked back up the hill to our hotel, to get our stuff and get the train on the first leg of our journey home.I saw this poor guy pushing these heavy gas bottles up the enormous hill, in the centre of town.On his back, he wears a bin liner as a coat.

Not for the first time, I am faced with a cultural dilemma.

Should he envy me, because I come from a place with free hospitals, centrally heated houses and too him, endless comfort ?.

Should I envy him for living in one of the most beautiful places in the world ?.

I think in quality of life terms, we should all strive to better ourselves, but celebrate what we have.

gas